Perfect Effects 9 Premium preset descriptions [reference article]

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Perfect Effects 9 Premium contains 205 built-in presets. 204 of them have descriptions entered by their creators, but those descriptions don't seem to be visible in the program. Here are the descriptions from all 205 presets. A few of the descriptions include adjustment suggestions to the user; I've italicized those parts.

Cinematic
  • Blue Dawn: A risque color palette. Cool in the shadows, warm in the mids, bold and punchy. Try it for a fashion edge or modern moodiness.
  • Cyberpunk: Produces a cool, edgy look common in futuristic movies. Be sure to adjust the fade slider for best results.
  • Day for Night: Day for night is a common effect used in movies for many years. By decreasing the exposure and adding a blue filter cinematographers can make it look like night during the middle of the day.
  • Dirty Money: Add this dirty monochrome effect to seniors or model images and make an instant sale.
  • Enter the Dragon: Bam! an illuminant, three-dimensional, edgy, bold and powerful round-house kick to the head. Use on images with lots of texture and detail then stand back and feel the Dragon.
  • Firenza: Like a late afternoon walk across Ponte Vecchio. The effect adds a romantic soft peach quality.
  • Glow Baby: Adds a beautiful, soft glow and enhances the color and contrast at the same time.
  • Havana: Like a hot and muggy day in Cuba. This effect makes colors bright pastel and adds a bit of white diffusion.
  • Kryptonite: A kick in the pants with a soft dark edge
  • Lord of the Rings: Adds a localized contrast boost, overall color punch and deepens blue skies. For extra control, add a layer mask and paint back important details.
  • Moulin Rouge: Punchy contrast and an old world color palette.
  • Pastel Colors: Brighten and soften your colors. This is great for spring images and babies.
  • Return of the King: Adds a localized contrast boost, overall color punch and deepens blue skies. For extra control, add a layer mask and paint back important details.
  • Thermopylae: Simulates processing color film without the bleach step. Creates a higher contrast, low saturation look that is popular in the cinema.
  • Tijuana: Go south of the border with this cinema inspired look. It creates a soft, hazy yellow look like a hot day in the desert. Be sure to adjust the fade slider for best results.
  • Velveteen: This is a rich color palette with shadows that diffuse over the highlights.
  • Vivid Dream: A bright glow and muted, off-color.
Color Pop
  • Daily Vitamin: Adds a localized contrast boost, overall color punch and deepens blue skies.
  • Golden Glow Sunshine: A Golden Glow adds extra warmth to your image along with adding a glow to your highlights. Perfect for a cloudy day that needs a little added sun.
  • Golden Hour Sunshine: A photographer's favorite time of day, a Rich Golden Hour filter to warm up your image and emulate a summer evening.
  • Landscape Pop - Cool: Add a little contrast with a cool tone to your landscape. This blue/gray temperature filter is great for Landscapes.
  • Landscape Pop - Green: Add a little contrast with a bit of green tint to your landscapes.
  • Landscape Pop - Sunshine: Great for a cloudy day...add a punch of sunshine with this filter. This will give you warmth with some added contrast.
  • Perfect Sunshine: [no description]
  • Subtle Sunshine: Subtle Sunshine is similar to Perfect Sunshine with just a touch less. This will help in skin tone areas. This filter adds a small amount of sun with, contrast and a vignette.
  • The Look: Use at a low amount setting for a nice bump in contrast, similar to slide film.
  • Turbo Boost: A perfect boost for an overcast day. Adds a kick to the color and contrast.
Commercial
  • Cold as Ice: Bright, blooming highlights with a cool, muted hue.
  • Crisp & Cool: A mild HDR look with a touch of cool vintage.
  • Dupe Portrait: Duped, but more subtle on the skin colors.
  • Dupe: Like a color copy. Exagerated detail with faded shadows and some grain.
  • Faded Denim: Subtle HDR with a cool vintage fade
  • Muted Skyline: Soft bright skies with stong lines
  • Ripped: Perfect for bodybuilding, sports and nudes.
  • Steampunk: Warm with high-detail and clean whites. Modern wild west.
  • Warm & Crunchy: Subtle HDR with a little warm vintage.
Darkroom
  • Antique Flat Brown: Turns your image into a stylized antique. It creates a two-toned high contrast image with a warm hue.
  • Antique Flat Gray: Turns your image into a stylized antique.
  • Antique Flat Indigo: Turns your image into a stylized antique. It creates a two-toned high contrast image with a cool hue.
  • Black Coffee: Black Coffee toned full frame sliver print effect.
  • Black Tea: Black Tea toned emulsion peel silver print effect.
  • Calotype: Old is an understatement. This creates a warm and soft grainy black and white with a vignette.
  • Casablanca: Like a classic black and white film noire movie. Converts your image into a slightly diffused contrasty black and white.
  • Daguerreotype: Create a really old look with this classic effect
  • Dawn Treader: Out of the fog comes a beautiful glowing black and white
  • Gum Bichromate: Recreates the look of gum chromate printing.
  • I Got The Blues: A very cool black and white with a bit of a glow. Works great on darker portraits, almost a night look.
  • Litho Negative: Litho negative contact print effect.
  • Palladium Print: Recreated the look of a large-format contact print on paladium paper.
  • Portrait Dark: Black and white conversion with darker flesh tones
  • Portrait Light: Black and white conversion with bright skin tones
  • Secret Formula: Rich and dramatic black and white. Works nice where faces are well lit. Otherwise creates a very dramatic lighting feel.
  • Tasty Glow: Classic black and white with a soft glowing effect.
  • Warm Fuzzy: A really warm black and white with a bit of a glow. Works great on darker portraits.
  • Warm Gray Violet: Duotone with lavender shadows and warm gray highlights.
  • Warm Gray: Duotone with warm grays.
Film - B&W
  • Blackline Vignette: Black line simple vignette B&W print.
  • Fuji Neopan 100: Reproduces the look of ©Fuji Neopan 100 film
  • Fuji Neopan 400: Reproduces the look of ©Fuji Neopan 400 film
  • Full-Frame Cool: Signature cool toned full frame effect.
  • Full-Frame TX: Signature full frame TriX effect.
  • Full-Frame Warm: Signature warm tone full frame effect.
  • Full-Frame: Signature high contrast full frame effect.
  • Ilford Delta 100: Reproduces the look of ©Ilford Delta 100 film
  • Ilford Delta 3200: Reproduces the look of ©Ilford Delta 3200 film
  • Ilford Delta 400: Reproduces the look of ©Ilford Delta 400 film
  • Ilford FP4 125: Reproduces the look of ©Ilford FP4 film
  • Ilford HP5 400: Reproduces the look of ©Ilford HP5 film
  • Ilford Pan F 50: Reproduces the look of ©Ilford Pan F film
  • Infrared: Reproduces the look of infrared film. This will make skies dark and bold and turn foliage into a bright white. Best for landscape images
  • Kodak Plus-X 125: Reproduces the look of ©Kodak Plus X film
  • Kodak T-Max 100: Reproduces the look of ©Kodak T-Max 100 film
  • Kodak T-Max 3200: Reproduces the look of ©Kodak T-Max 3200 film
  • Kodak T-Max 400: Reproduces the look of ©Kodak T-Max 400 film
  • Kodak Tri-X 400: Reproduces the look of ©Kodak Tri-X film
  • Ortho Film: Recreates the look of orthochromatic film, which is highly sensitive to blue only.
Film - Color
  • C41-Slide: Color slide film through C-41 chemistry cross process effect.
  • ColorChrome: Similar to Kodak® Kodachrome® this increases the contrast and pumps up the reds
  • E41-Lightleak: Vintage process light leak effect.
  • Ekta100: Color slide film look.
  • Fuji 1600: Fuji 1600 color neg film look.
  • Fuji Velvia100: Color slide film look.
  • Fuji Velvia50: Fuji Velvia 50 look.
  • Green Velvet: Similar to Fuji® Velvia® this increases the color and contrast, pops the greens and shifts the reds to magenta
  • KodaChrome: Classic Kodachrome slide film look.
  • Polachrome: Similar to Polaroid® Polachrome® instant slide film. It has a cool flat grainy look
  • Portra 160NC: Portra160NC Film Look.
  • Portra 160VC: Portra160VC Film Look.
  • Reala: Reala film look.
  • Superia: Superia film look.
  • VPS: Oldschool VPS film look.
Film - Instant
  • 125i Quick Pull: Instant film look replicating an early pull of the negative.
  • 665 Sulfite: 665 positive/negative effect with sodium sulfite partial wash.
  • 665: Type 665 positive/negative print effect.
  • 669: Classic instant film look.
  • 690: Classic instant film look.
  • BW65: high contrast 665 negative print look.
  • ColorPackIV: Early instant print look.
  • Expired 669: expired 669 film look.
  • Fuji FP100C: Modern instant print look.
  • Swinger: Vintage instant print look.
  • Type55: Type 55 negative print look.
  • Vinstant: Vintage instant print look.
Hipster
  • Avril: Looks like your K1000 has light leak and you left the film on your dashboard too long
  • Brandon: A blue-yellow vintage with simple black border.
  • David: A dark cyan black and white with warm highlights
  • Dirty Bird: A really dirty negative
  • Good Old Blue: A cool, dirty black and white with a rough edge
  • Grunge Goddess: A highly detailed grunge look with a touch of glowing highlights.
  • Holga B&W: Recreates the look of a worn Holga camera with B&W film.
  • Holga Color: Recreates the look of a worn Holga camera with color film.
  • Holga Cross Process: Recreates the look of a worn Holga camera with cross proccessed film.
  • Holga Infrared: Recreates the look of a worn Holga camera with infrared film.
  • Honky Tonk: Howdy Partner, saddle up this effect for a vintage 70s western look.
  • Insta-Lomo: A grainy yellow-green vintage look with a sloppy border
  • Katy: Subtle blue-yellow vintage look
  • Lavender Cream: For those grungy urban scenes where you want to add a little sci-fi color cast to your diet
  • Lo-Fi: Contrast with some grain
  • Lomo-Soft: Adds a soft vibrant edge and a sloppy border.
  • Mayor: A red vintage look.
  • Modern Antique: Almost black and white with soft highlights
  • Monday Cool: I hate mondays, so dark and dreary
  • Monday Neutral: I hate mondays, so dark and dreary
  • Monday Warm: I hate mondays, so dark and dreary
  • Nero: A subtle 70's desaturated look.
  • Nicely Toasted: A fiery red and orange look with a little light leak.
  • ProX: muted, dark and grainy
  • Robin: A soft grainy antique look with some magenta warmth.
  • SOHO: Adds a touch of glow with a little grunge texture and a sloppy border.
  • Straight to Heck: Is it getting hot in here? Add a powerful-hot look with a little light leak and black border.
  • Tea Stained: A soft, subtle color palette similar to what you might get from tea staining a print.
  • Tijuana Sunrise: It's hot south of the border, even at sunrise
  • Vintage Postcard: This old fashioned look will give you the feel of a Vintage postcard. A warm tone BW with a grungy texture to emulate an old school postcard.
Landscape
  • Autumn: Like a late fall afternoon, this special effect adds a strong warmth and dark glow.
  • Golden Hour Enhancer: This effect helps you get the most out of your golden hour images by increasing the warm feel.
  • Magic City: One-click to an edgy cityscape
  • Magic Desert: One-click to a great desert landscape.
  • Magic Forest: One-click to a great landscape for images with prominent foliage.
  • Magic Ocean: One-click to a great seascape.
  • Magic Sunset: Magically makes your sunset images look better in a single-click.
  • Radiance: Color boosting and vividness without softening or glows.
  • Spring: Like the fresh new growth of spring, this effect adds a little bit more color vibrance and a slight light glow.
  • Summer: Like the late summer heat, this effect adds extra color vibrance and a slight dark glow.
  • Vecchio: Reduces saturation and adds warmth. Instant old world charm
Light Leaks & Lens Flares
  • 5 Buttons of Flare: Bright lens flare look.
  • Bloody Mary: Lens flare look.
  • Brightside: Bright lens flare look.
  • Fogged: Light fogged film look.
  • Funky Sun: Lens flare and light leak look.
  • Hot Center Pop: Lens flare out of direct center look.
  • Leaky Sun: Lens flare and light leak look.
  • Lightleak-1: Dark light leak film look.
  • Lightleak-2: Dark light leak film effect.
  • Lightleak-3: Dark light leak film look.
  • Lightleak-4: Light leak film look.
  • Lightleak-5: Dark light leak film look.
  • Super Fade: Bright lens flare look.
  • Sweet Heat: Lens flare and light leak film look.
  • White Hot: Bright lens flare look.
Matte
  • Faded Matte - Cool: A cool version of a faded matte look. This will add a blue hue to your image while fading it back to have a little less contrast. This filter looks great with images with blues such as blue jeans.
  • Faded Matte - Simple: A simple version of the faded matte look. This will have a slight warm tint without overdoing it. It will keep more skin tones while still giving you more of a matte look.
  • Faded Matte - Warm: A warm version of the faded matte look. This will give a warmth to your image.
  • Intense Matte - Cool: Similar to the Cool Version this Intense matte filter is going to be much richer and more vibrant in the blue hues.
  • Intense Matte - Pastel Pink: Pastel Pink could be perfect for a newborn shot. This soft pink is going to add a little contrast and compliment any pink hues.
  • Intense Matte - Warm: Intense matte warm is similar to the faded matte warm. Intense matte warm is a little richer and has a little more punch.
  • Matte 1: Matte 1 has a creamy tint with a vignette.
  • Matte 2: An enhanced version of Vintage Red/Yellow. A warm matte that is great for portraits.
  • Matte 3: A slightly red tinted matte filter. Adds a vignette to finish off the image.
  • Matte 4: A grungy green tinted matte filter with a vignette.
  • Matte 5: A blue/violet tinted matte filter.
  • Matte 6: A blue/gray tinted matte filter with a vignette.
  • Matte 7: This filter will desaturate your image and add a mint tint to your image.
  • Matte 8: This filter will desaturate your image, bump up the contrast a bit and add a very slight warm tint.
  • Matte 9: A split Pea style matte finish. Adds a bump of contrast and desaturates your image before finishing with a vintage feel.
  • Matte 10: A matte Black and White.
  • Matte 11: A sepia or "Split Pea" style matte black and white.
  • Matte 12: A sea green style matte black and white.
  • Soft Matte - Desaturated: Soft matte will soften up your image by desaturating. This has no color tint to it.
  • Soft Matte - Pink-Teal: This soft matte replaces the highlights with a soft pink and the shadows with a teal. This will also give you a bump in contrast.
  • Soft Matte - Warm-Cool: This soft matte will replace the highlights with a cream and the shadows with a blue giving it a warm/cool look.
  • Soft Matte - Warm-Olive: This soft matte will replace the highlights with a soft yellow and the shadows with a green giving it a warm olive hue.
Portrait
  • Anime Bold: A smooth, painterly look reminiscent of the anime style art. Adjust the strength for a yummy soft skin look!
  • Anime: A smooth, painterly look reminiscent of the anime style art. Adjust the strength for a yummy soft skin look!
  • Graham Cracker: A great one stop shop for senior portraits. This effect will smooth the skin and pop the rest.
  • Luminizer Portrait: Boosts color and brightness of vivid colors without affecting skin.
  • Portrait Color Boost: Boost the color saturation without affecting the skin
  • Radiant People: Adds punch but is tuned to reduce over saturation of skin tones.
  • Tootsie Glow: A little pop and glow
  • Tootsie Pop: A great one stop shop for senior portraits. This effect will smooth the skin and pop the rest.
Texture Combos
  • B&W Photo Copy: A matte B&W with a light grunge vignette.
  • Blue Evening: Cool, pastel textures.
  • Border Town: Warm and faded with strong texture.
  • Brown Rice: A heavy warm rice paper texture with soft under tones.
  • Dirty Dream: Combines Vivid Dream with a light and dirty texture on the edges.
  • Double Exposed Sky: Add a double-exposed sky to your image.
  • Dust Bowl: Reveals fine detail, boosts the contrast, adds a light glow and subtle texture that avoids the skin.
  • Faded Pink: A matte pink look with a cracked paper texture.
  • MacArthur: Muted colors and a warm antique texture two-punch.
  • Thunder: Crackles and clouds
Urban
  • Caution: A greasy-grunge with yellows that pop, perfect for street signs.
  • Dark and Gritty: Dark and detailed with a touch of grain.
  • Urban Cinema: Soft urban look with a letterbox border.
  • Urban Cool: Vintage cool with crisp details.
  • Urban Sun: Add a little warm sun to those urban alleys.
  • Urbex: HDR with a unique color.
 
Cool! Very usefull Thank You!
 
Than you for finding this information. The only way to see the description is to select edit preset info on the preset menu, but the built-in presets cannot be edited.

I am going to have to put in a feature suggestion to have the preset description be available/shown via a tooltip popup or on a right click menu or some other location in the UI. Suggestions for tweaking is info that should be available.
 
Thank you, that's very helpful.
 
Thank you much. Very useful!

Looking for a site to dl (preferably free) skies, clouds, backgrounds, etc to use with this suite. Any suggestions?
 
Last edited:
Why not just take your own? Any time I'm out taking photgraphs I keep my eyes open for skies, landscapes, roads, walls, whatever that could be useful as backgrounds, take photographs of them and save them for later use. Easy to do, free and at the same resolution & size as your other shots!

You can add these to PPS following the instructions in the help files so they are available easily from within the suite.
 
Yes -- I already do this, but do not see many of those South Pacific sunsets in the mountains of North Carolina
 
[No message]
 
Perfect Effects 9 Premium contains 375 built-in presets across its 25 filters. 374 of them have descriptions entered by their creators, but those descriptions don't seem to be visible in the program. Here are the descriptions from all 375 filter presets. A few of the descriptions include adjustment suggestions to the user; I've italicized those parts.

Adjustable Gradient
  • Lighten: Lightens a portion of the image.
  • Contrast: Increases the contrast on a portion of the image. Use the Masking Bug to control it.
  • Cooler: Cools a portion of the image. Use the Masking Bug to control it.
  • Darken: Darkens a portion of the image.
  • Detail: Adds detail to a portion of the image.
  • Glow: Adds a rich glow to a portion of the image.
  • Punch: Adds some punch to a portion of the image. Use the Masking Bug to control it.
  • Vibrance: Increases the vibrance on a portion of the image.
  • Warmer: Warms a portion of the image. Use the Masking Bug to control it.
Adjustment Brush
  • Lighten: Dodge and area with the brush.
  • Contrast: Use this effect to paint in more contrast.
  • Cooler: Paint-in a little coolness where needed.
  • Darken: Burn an area with the brush.
  • Detail: Paint more detail.
  • Glow: Add a glow with the brush.
  • HDR: Use this brush to paint in an HDR look where you want it.
  • Magic Eye Fixer: Brush this over the eyes to enhance to brighten and sharpen them.
  • Recover Highlights: Paint back highlights you thought where lost.
  • Reveal Shadows: Paint-in more shadow detail.
  • Toothbrush: Brush this over teeth to whiten and brighten them.
  • Vibrance: Control the vibrance with the brush.
  • Warmer: Paint in warmth just where you need it.
Antique
  • Autochrome Neutral: A flat antique look similar to early autochrome images.
  • Autochrome Cool: A cool and flat antique look similar to early autochrome images.
  • Autochrome Green: A green and flat antique look similar to early autochrome images.
  • Autochrome Red: A red and flat antique look similar to early autochrome images.
  • Autochrome Warm: A warm and flat antique look similar to early autochrome images.
Black & White
  • Neutral: Default black and white conversion.
  • Adele: A dark and dirty vintage black and white.
  • Blue: Simulates the look of using a blue filter over your lens. Creates an odd tonal scale.
  • Chrome: A wonderful black and white conversion with rich blacks and all the detail you want.
  • Coffee: Like toning a black and white fiber based print in coffee.
  • Cyanotype: Converts your image into a cyanotype, an antique contact printing process that yields a long tone image with a blue/cyan hue.
  • Deep Blacks: Creates a black and white image with powerful, deep shadows.
  • Fade to BW: Almost black and white.
  • Gold Toner: Recreates the look of a B&W print toned in gold toner.
  • Grainy Film: Like shooting high-speed black and white film.
  • Green: Simulates the look of use a green filter over your lens. Great for pictures of people and foliage.
  • High-Key B&W Blue: Converts your image into a high-key, high-contrast image commonly used in fashion photography. On a portrait image, only the subjects eyes and lips will maintain detail, the skin will appear a smooth white.
  • High-Key B&W Lavender: Converts your image into a high-key, high-contrast image commonly used in fashion photography. On a portrait image, only the subjects eyes and lips will maintain detail, the skin will appear a smooth white.
  • High-Key B&W Warm: Converts your image into a high-key, high-contrast image commonly used in fashion photography. On a portrait image, only the subjects eyes and lips will maintain detail, the skin will appear a smooth white.
  • High-Key: Converts your image into a high-key, high-contrast image commonly used in fashion photography. On a portrait image, only the subjects eyes and lips will maintain detail, the skin will appear a smooth white.
  • Infrared: Simulates infrared black and white film.
  • Inky: A straightforward black and white.
  • Orange: Simulates using a orange filter over your lens.
  • Red: Simulates using a red filter over your lens. Makes skies dark and skin bright.
  • Roadie: A super sharp black and white, similar to Rodinal developer with a very slight warm paper.
  • Sepia Toner: Reproduces the effect of a sepia toned black and white print. It can also be used to make an image appear antique.
  • Snappy Warm: A great B&W conversion with a touch of warmth and contrast.
  • Subtle Selenium: Black and white print toned with a touch of selenium.
  • Yellow: Simulates using a yellow filter over your lens.
Bleach Bypass
  • Normal: Default bleach bypass.
  • Darker: A darker rendition of bleach bypass.
  • High-Key Cool: Converts your image into a high-key, high-contrast image commonly used in fashion photography.
  • High-Key Warm: Converts your image into a high-key, high-contrast image commonly used in fashion photography.
  • Lighter: A lighter rendition of bleach bypass.
  • Omaha Beach: Reproduces the look common in war movies. It increases the contrast and reduces the color overall and adds an olive drab cast.
  • Strong: A strong, gritty bleach bypass.
Blur
  • Normal: Adds a full-strength normal or gaussian blur.
  • Blur Bottom: Blurs the bottom edge.
  • Blur Left: Blurs the left edge.
  • Blur Right: Blurs the right edge.
  • Blur Top and Bottom: Blurs the top and bottom edges.
  • Blur Top: Blurs the top edge.
  • Motion Bottom: Blurs the bottom edge.
  • Motion Left: Blurs the left edge.
  • Motion Right: Blurs the right edge.
  • Motion Top and Bottom: Blurs the top and bottom edges.
  • Motion Top: Blurs the top edge.
  • Motion: Adds a motion blur horizontally.
  • Radial: Adds a radial blur emanating from the center.
  • Shake: A blur that makes it look like the camera was moving.
  • Simplify: Uses a surface blur to reduce the fine details. It simplifies the image into a painterly look.
Borders
  • Border Defaults: This sets a thick plain white border.
  • 35 Contact Sheet: Adds a clean 35mm film edge, like a contact sheet.
  • 35 Dirty Cool: Adds a cool dirty film edge with sprockets.
  • 35 Dirty Warm: Adds a warm dirty film edge with sprockets.
  • 120 Dirty: Medium format film with a bit of emulsion.
  • 645 Thick: Adds a 645 medium format film edge with a white background
  • 645 Thin: Adds a 645 medium format film edge.
  • Ansel: Adds a real 4x5 film edge.
  • Antique Deckled: Adds an antique deckled edge.
  • Antique Rounded: Adds a soft rounded antique edge.
  • Black Key: Adds a simple black border with a white keyline.
  • Black Round Key: Adds a simple black border with rounded edges and a white keyline.
  • Black Round: Adds a simple black border with rounded edges.
  • Black: Adds a simple black border.
  • Courtney: Adds a thin sloppy border.
  • Dano: Adds a real Type 55 edge, inlcuding the top and bottom tab.
  • Dirty Viewfinder: Makes it look like you are viewing your image through an old camera viewfinder.
  • Emulsion Transfer 1: Adds a soft emulsion edge, like a polaroid transfer.
  • Emulsion Transfer 2: Adds a soft emulsion edge, like a polaroid transfer.
  • Emulsion Transfer 3: Adds a soft emulsion edge, like a polaroid transfer.
  • Focusing Screen: Makes it look like you are viewing your image through an old camera viewfinder.
  • Ghosted B&W: Adds a simple black and white overlay border.
  • Ghosted Border Dark: Adds a simple ghosted overlay border.
  • Ghosted Border Light: Adds a simple ghosted overlay border.
  • Ground Glass: Makes it look like you are viewing your image through an old view camera ground glass.
  • Hassy Thick: Adds a medium format film edge with a white background.
  • Hassy Thin: Adds a medium format film edge with no white border.
  • Martha: Adds a nice emulsion transfer edge.
  • Movie Camera: Adds a movie camera border.
  • Pinline Border Black: A simple graphic pinline inset.
  • Pinline Border White: A simple graphic pinline inset.
  • Platinum Brush: Adds a large format contact printing edge with a brushed emulsion.
  • Russell: Adds a 4x5 instant film edge.
  • Sloppy Border 1: A sloppy darkroom border created by filing out a negative carrier.
  • Sloppy Border 2: A sloppy darkroom border created by filing out a negative carrier.
  • Sloppy Border 3: A sloppy darkroom border created by filing out a negative carrier.
  • Sloppy Border 4: A sloppy darkroom border created by filing out a negative carrier.
  • Sloppy Border 5: A sloppy darkroom border created by filing out a negative carrier.
  • Sloppy Border 6: A sloppy darkroom border created by filing out a negative carrier.
  • Sloppy Border 7: A sloppy darkroom border created by filing out a negative carrier.
  • Sloppy Border 8: A sloppy darkroom border created by filing out a negative carrier.
  • Sloppy Border 9: A sloppy darkroom border created by filing out a negative carrier.
  • Sloppy Border 10: A sloppy darkroom border created by filing out a negative carrier.
  • Sloppy Border 11: Adds a realistic sloppy border.
  • Sloppy Border 12: A sloppy darkroom border created by filing out a negative carrier.
  • Sloppy Border 13: A sloppy darkroom border created by filing out a negative carrier.
  • Sloppy Border 14: A sloppy darkroom border created by filing out a negative carrier.
  • Sloppy Border 15: A sloppy darkroom border created by filing out a negative carrier.
  • Sloppy Border 16: A sloppy darkroom border created by filing out a negative carrier.
  • Sloppy Border 17: A sloppy darkroom border created by filing out a negative carrier.
  • Sloppy Border 18: A sloppy darkroom border created by filing out a negative carrier.
  • Sloppy Border 19: A sloppy darkroom border created by filing out a negative carrier.
  • Tab: Adds a semi-transparent instant film edge with the tab on.
  • Thin Mint: Adds a thin border from a filed out negative carrier.
  • Tin Type Clean: Adds a border that makes your image look like an aged tin-type.
  • Tin Type Dirty: Adds a border that makes your image look like an aged tin-type.
  • Torn Paper: Adds a torn edge appearance.
  • Vincent: Adds Vincent Versace's trademark edge.
  • White Key: Adds a simple white border with a black keyline.
  • White Round Key: Adds a simple white border with rounded edges and a black keyline.
  • White Round: Adds a simple white border with rounded edges.
  • White: Adds a simple white border.
  • Whitney Horizontal: Adds a real pack film edge with horizontal black bars.
  • Whitney Vertical: Adds a real pack film edge with vertical black bars.
Color Enhancer
  • Auto Color: Automatically removes a color cast.
  • Cool Shadows: Adds a cool tint to the shadows.
  • Cooler: Adds a cool tint to the image.
  • Darken Sky: Darkens and intensifies the sky.
  • Fall Enhancer: Enhances fall colors and makes greens more green than yellow to increase contrast between colors.
  • Green Enhancer: Enhances the greens to make grass appear more green and less yellow.
  • Increase Color: Boosts the color saturation and vibrance.
  • Purify Highlights: Removes a color cast from the highlights. Great for water and wedding dresses.
  • Purify Shadows: Removes a color cast from the shadows. Handy for making tuxedos black.
  • Red Enhancer: Enhances red colors, useful for desert images for enhancing fall foliage.
  • Reduce Color: Reduces the color saturation overall. Use the fade slider to determine how much.
  • Sky Enhancer: Enhances and darkens blues to enhance skies.
  • Warmer: Adds a warm tint.
Cross Process
  • Blue: When you process slide film in the wrong chemicals you can create magic.
  • Fashion Passion: For those that like cross-processed looks, but with less blue in the shadows and more pleasing skin tones.
  • Green: When you process slide film in the wrong chemicals you can create magic.
  • Urban Sickness: For those grungy urban scenes where you want to add a little sci-fi color cast to your diet.
  • Yellow: When you process slide film in the wrong chemicals you can create magic.
Dynamic Contrast
  • Natural: A natural contrast boost with untouched highlights and shadows.
  • Grunge Contrast: A high contrast, low color and dark look.
  • Soft: Increases the contrast of the largest objects.
  • Surreal: Creates a strong, surreal look that enhances the overall contrast, detail and color.
  • Texture Enhancer: Makes fine textures like rocks and denim pop.
Glow
  • Normal: A basic rich glow.
  • Angel Glow: Glows the highlights only to create an ethereal feel. Beautiful on brightly lit sunny days with lots of specular highlights.
  • Black Soft: Black Soft, or black net diffusion creates a soft look where dark areas in the image bleed into the neighboring tones.
  • Charge More - Normal Muted: Recreates the look of Charge More Money Glow - Normal Muted from PhotoTools 2.6.
  • Charge More - Normal: Recreates the look of Charge More Money Glow - Normal from PhotoTools 2.6.
  • Charge More - Strong Muted: Recreates the look of Charge More Money Glow - Strong Muted from PhotoTools 2.6
  • Charge More - Strong: Recreates the look of Charge More Money Glow - Strong from PhotoTools 2.6
  • Charge More - Subtle Muted: Recreates the look of Charge More Money Glow - Subtle Muted in PhotoTools 2.6
  • Charge More - Subtle: Reproduces the look of Charge More Money Glow.
  • Dark Glow: Adds a dark rich glow.
  • Dark Glow Vignette: Dark glowing edges.
  • Darker: A dark, rich glow.
  • Deep Forest: Rich colors and glowing shadows. Try this on your romantic portraits and scene setters. For extra control, add a layer mask to paint back in important details.
  • Diffuse Glow: A great subtle glow for any portrait.
  • Dreamland: A powerful glow that remaps the tonality of the image. Perfect for HDR images.
  • Hollywood Glow: A bright, vibrant glow for a strong look.
  • Lighter: A bright, light glow.
  • Orton Clean: Inspired by Michael Orton, this effect creates rich shadows with a touch of dark diffusion.
  • Orton Hears a Who: Inspired by Michael Orton, this effect creates rich shadows with a touch of dark diffusion.
  • Radiance Glow: Color boosting and vividness with a touch of a glow.
  • Rich Glow: Add a glow with a rich kick. Increases the color and contrast as it glows.
  • Strong: A strong, light glow.
  • White Soft No Darks: A soft white glow or diffusion with a twist, the shadows are uneffected.
  • White Soft: A classic white soft net diffusion filter.
Grunge
  • Normal: The default grunge.
  • Arkham: A dark night in Arkham City.
  • Darker: A darker grunge.
  • Frumpy: Ever have one of those days where you just feel fat and grumpy? This effect gives your image that cool, low color feeling.
  • Grunge Glow: A moody dark glow with an edgy feel.
  • Grunge: Perfect for seniors, grunge reduces the saturation and increases the shadows and midtone contrast. Stack this with a split-tone for a great vintage look.
  • Just Enough Darkness: For those grungy urban scenes where you want to add a little sci-fi color cast to your diet.
  • Lighter: A lighter grunge.
  • Strong: A strong, grainy grunge.
HDR Look
  • Natural: A natural HDR look good for landscapes.
  • Exaggerated Edges n Tone: Creates exaggerated edges that give your images an artistic, artificial look.
  • Glow: A bright, vidid glowing HDR Look.
  • Subtle: This effect creates a pseudo HDR (high-dynamic range) look. It inceases the contrast range and boosts the color. Great for artistic landscapes.
  • Surreal: A surreal HDR look.
Lens Blur
  • Tilt Shift: Recreates the miniature look created by using a tilt-shift lens.
  • Big Softy Vignette: Adds a vignette with soft, dark edges.
  • Bokeh in Motion: Adds bokeh with a touch of motion to the entire image.
  • Bokeh Large: Adds a heavy bokeh to the entire image.
  • Bokeh Shapes: Adds bokeh with a soft, nine-sided aperture to the entire image.
  • Bokeh Small: Adds a small amount of bokeh to the entire image.
  • Round: Adds a blur in a round, vignette shape.
  • Sides: Blurs the left and right sides of the image.
  • Soft Edges: Adds a subtle vignette with soft, blurred edges.
  • Starry Night: Adds large, star-shaped highlights to a night sky.
Lens Flare
  • Instant Gold: Turn anytime into golden hour.
  • Cold Fusion: Adds a strong, cool lens flare.
  • Hot and Cold: An over the top warm lens flare with cooler unaffected areas.
  • Pulsar: Use Pulsar placed on top of the sun in your image to make it a brighter sunspot.
  • Subtle Faded: A green and red fade with a subtle flare.
  • Tiny Red Dot: Creates a small red flare. Use the camera tool to set the location.
  • Top Down: A stong, top down lens flare.
  • Upright: A warm light source in the upper right, just off the image.
Noise Reduction
  • Subtle: [no description]
  • Blue Sky: Reduces the noise just in the sky color range. Use the dropper tool to fine-tune your sky hue.
  • Color Noise Only: Reduces just the color noise, leaving the luminance noise, or "grain" for maximum detail.
  • Mobile: A great starting point for your iPhone images. Mobile cameras tend to apply good color noise reduction but just soften the details.
  • Moderate: Removes moderate noise. A good starting point for images with high ISO values that were created with modern DSLRs.
  • Shadows Only: Reduces the noise in just the darker tones of the image.
  • Strong: For high amounts of noise only. Use with older, high-ISO images for film scans where you wish to remove the grain.
Photo Filter
  • 80A: A cool color correction filter.
  • 81A Warming: Adds a touch of warm. Great for cloudy days and north light.
  • 85 Warming: A warm color correction filter, great for late afternoon.
  • Blue: Adds a cool blue filter.
  • Cyan: Adds a cool cyan look.
  • Deep Red: Simulates a deep red filter.
  • Graduated Blue: A graduated filter with blue to clear.
  • Graduated Lavender: A graduated filter with lavender to clear.
  • Graduated ND: A graduated filter with gray to clear.
  • Graduated Red: A graduated filter with red to clear.
  • Graduated Tobacco: A graduated filter with tobacco to clear.
  • Graduated Warm Cool: A graduated filter with warm to cool. Perfect for sunsets to warm the sky and cool the land.
  • Graduated Warm: A graduated filter with orange to clear.
  • Graduated Yellow: A graduated filter with yellow to clear.
  • Green: Adds a green tint.
  • Magenta: Adds a magenta tint.
  • Orange: Orange you happy you added some warmth.
  • Polarizer: Recreates the look of a polarizing filter by increasing the contrast and color.
  • Red: Adds a subtle red filter.
  • Skylight: Good for removing the cool cast when photographing in open sky.
  • Tobacco: Adds a brown tint.
  • Warm Polarizer: Reduces glare, enhances the sky and adds a touch of warmth.
  • Yellow: It's a yellow filter.
Portrait Enhancer
  • Natural: A subtle, natural skin retouch.
  • Auto Skin Smoother: A quick way to smooth out the skin.
  • Shine Reducer: A medium retouch with shine reduction perfect for oily skin.
  • Strong: A heavy retouch that reduces blemishes and smoothes the skin heavily.
Sharpening
  • Fix Focus: Use this preset to help bring some focus back to images that where shot just out of focus.
  • Amazing Detail Finder: Brings up small details you didn't even know existed. Best to brush this one in where you want it.
  • High Pass Sharpen: High pass sharpening is great for images that start out slightly out of focus where normal sharpening will lead to artifacts.
  • Midtone Sharpen: Sharpens only the midtones of the image, leaving the shadows and highlights safe.
  • Portrait Sharpen: Sharpens everything expect the skin colors.
  • Print General High: For general purpose printing, such as an online printing service.
  • Print General Low: For general purpose printing, such as an online printing service.
  • Print General Portrait: For general purpose printing, such as an online printing service.
  • Print Glossy High: For printing on glossy paper with your inkjet or dye-sublimation printer.
  • Print Glossy Low: For printing on glossy paper with your inkjet or dye-sublimation printer.
  • Print Glossy Portrait: For printing on glossy paper with your inkjet or dye-sublimation printer.
  • Print Matte High: For printing on matte or fine-art papers on your inkjet printer or newsprint. Compensates for dot-grain.
  • Print Matte Low: For printing on matte or fine-art papers on your inkjet printer or newsprint. Compensates for dot-grain.
  • Print Matte Portrait: For printing on matte or fine-art papers on your inkjet printer or newsprint. Compensates for dot-grain.
  • Progressive Sharpening: Our favorite sharpening method. This sharpens the small details more than the large ones to create a hyper-sharp look with fewer artifacts.
  • Screen High: Perfect for sharpening your images after they are sized for sharing online or presented on your computer or television.
  • Screen Low: Perfect for sharpening your images after they are sized for sharing online or presented on your computer or television.
  • Screen Portrait: Perfect for sharpening your images after they are sized for sharing online or presented on your computer or television.
Split Tone
  • Blue-Orange: Cool shadows and warm highlights.
  • Blue-Yellow: Cool shadows and yellow highlights.
  • Green-Yellow: Greenish shadows and yellow highlights.
  • Red-Cyan: Red highlights and cyan shadows.
Sunshine
  • Natural: Adds a modest amount of sunshine.
  • Glow: Adds a warm, glowing sunshine.
  • Radiance: Color boosting and vividness without softening or glows.
  • Strong: Adds a heavy amount of sunshine.
  • Sunglow: A bright sunny glowing effect. Try it on outdoor natural light images with bright highlights.
  • Sunshine: A bright sunny glowing effect. Try it on outdoor natural light images with bright highlights.
  • Warm Highlights: Adds soft warm glow to the highlights.
Texturizer
  • Cool Concrete: Adds a cool concrete texture.
  • Black Leather: Adds a rich dark leather texture.
  • Brocade Black: Adds a black brocade texture.
  • Brocade Cool: Adds a cool brocade texture.
  • Brocade Corners: Adds a subtle brocade vignette.
  • Brocade Warm: Adds a warm brocade texture.
  • Clean Paper: Adds an antique paper texture with a clean edge.
  • Cracked Earth: Adds a cracked mud texture.
  • Cracked Paint: Adds a cracked paint texture.
  • Croc: Adds a crocodile skin texture.
  • Crumpled Paper: Adds a crumple paper texture.
  • Dark Clouds: Adds a cloud texture.
  • Dark Concrete: Adds a rich concrete texture.
  • Dark Text 2: Adds a text overlay with a black font.
  • Dark Text 3: Adds a text overlay with a black font.
  • Dark Text: Adds a text overlay with a black font.
  • Earth: Adds a great organic texture.
  • Fibers: Adds a crumple paper texture.
  • Folded Paper 4: Adds the appearance that the image is on folded paper.
  • Folded Paper 8: Adds the appearance that the image is on folded paper.
  • Grunge Vignette Dark: Adds a textured vignette with a light center.
  • Grunge Vignette Light: Adds a textured vignette with a light center.
  • Itchy: Adds a scratched film texture.
  • Light Brick: Adds a light brick texture.
  • Light Leak 1: Adds a light leak effect.
  • Light Leak 2: Adds a light leak effect.
  • Light Leak 3: Adds a light leak effect.
  • Light Leak 4: Adds a light leak effect.
  • Light Leak 5: Adds a light leak effect.
  • Light Leak 6: Adds a light leak effect.
  • Light Leak 7: Adds a light leak effect.
  • Light Text 1: Adds a text overlay with a white font.
  • Light Text 2: Adds a text overlay with a white font.
  • Light Text 3: Adds a text overlay with a white font.
  • Paisley: Adds a subtle paisley texture.
  • Powerful Clouds: Adds a powerful sky.
  • Raw Hide: Adds a dark warm leather texture.
  • Recycled: Adds a recycled paper texture.
  • Red Door: Adds a red metal texture.
  • Red Floral: Adds a rich red texture with a floral element.
  • Rice Paper Light: Adds a rice paper texture with a dark square vignette.
  • Rice Paper Vignette: Adds a rice paper texture with a dark square vignette.
  • Rust: Adds a rusted metal texture.
  • Scratched Film Dark: Adds a scratched film texture with dark scratches.
  • Scratched Film Light: Adds a scratched film texture with dark scratches.
  • Scratched Metal: Adds a scratched metal texture.
  • Scratchy: Adds a scratched film texture with dark scratches.
  • Screen Door: Adds a mesh texture.
  • Subtle Brick: Adds a subtle brick texture.
  • Subtle Clouds: Adds a subtle cloud texture.
  • Tattered Paper Blue: Adds a tattered paper texture with a blue tint.
  • Tattered Paper Gray: Adds a tattered paper texture.
  • Tattered Paper Red: Adds a tattered paper texture with a red tint.
  • Warm Brick: Adds a warm brick texture.
  • Warm Concrete Dark: Adds a rich warm concrete texture.
  • Warm Concrete Subtle: Adds a rich warm concrete texture.
  • Warm Swirl: Adds a warm texture with a swirl element.
  • Worn Brick: Adds a worn brick texture.
  • Yellowed Paper Dark: Adds a dark yellowed paper texture.
  • Yellowed Paper Subtle: Adds a subtle yellowed paper texture.
Tone Enhancer
  • Auto Contrast: Automatically sets the white and black points to provide a complete tonal scale.
  • Clarity: A simple boost to the clarity.
  • Contrast Mask: In the darkroom, using a contrast mask is a way to decrease the local contrast without sacrificing true blacks and whites.
  • Contrast Only: Increases the midtone contrast without effecting color.
  • Dark Contrast: Increases the contrast in the dark tones only.
  • Darker: Darkens the image overall, like decreasing the exposure.
  • Decrease Contrast: Decreases contrast. Handy for bright sunny days.
  • Highlights Darker: Recovers details in overexposed highlights.
  • Highlights Lighter: Lightens the highlights.
  • Lighter: Increases the overall exposure, lightens everything.
  • Midtone Contrast Boost: Adds a boost to the contrast in the midtones without clipping the highlights or shadows.
  • Midtones Darker: Darkens the midtones.
  • Midtones Lighter: Adds a modest pop to the midtones by increasing the midtone contrast.
  • Shadows Darker: Use to deepen the shadows.
  • Shadows Lighter: Lightens the shadows, like adding a fill light or reflector.
  • Tonal Contrast: Make the small details pop with this tonal contrast boost.
Vignette
  • Subtle: Adds a large, subtle vignette, good for almost any image.
  • Big Softy: Adds a dark, super-soft vignette.
  • Black Edges: Burns the edges down to pure black.
  • Burnout: Burns out the edges to a bright, vivid look
  • Center Spot Bright: Adds bright circular vignette.
  • Center Spot: Adds a round heavy vignette.
  • Dark Edges: Darkens just the edges, really dark.
  • Edges: Adds a rectangular vignette that darkens just the edges.
  • Lighten Edges: A subtle ligtening of the edges.
  • Strong: Adds a thick, dark and strong vignette.
  • White Edges: Makes just the edges pure white, like a border.
  • White Vignette: Adds a heavy white vignette.
Vintage
  • Blue - Yellow: Add a vintage look. Tints the shadows blue and the highlights yellow.
  • Cool: Give your image that great vintage color look. From the 50's through the 70's this the look.
  • Earth & Sky: Creates a flat vintage look with cool highlights and brown shadows.
  • Katy: Subtle blue-yellow vintage look.
  • Lo-Fi: Contrast with some grain.
  • Ocean Waves: A flat vintage look with soft cool to warm colors.
  • Red - Yellow: Add a vintage color look. Makes the shadows red and highlights yellow.
  • Warm: Give your image that great vintage color look. From the 50's through the 70's this the look.
 
Thanks again for another excellent reference.

Do you have this (and prior reference) as a pdf or Word doc somewhere?
 
I've been spending some time getting familiar with OnOne Perfect Effects 9 Premium, and here are my impressions.

It's an extremely powerful and complete package for controlling tonality, coloration, and atmosphere of an image. However, that much power and complexity demands a good user interface and excellent documentation, and Perfect Effects 9 doesn't have those.

The user interface is okay but not well-organized. My main gripe is that it alphabetizes your choices. For example, the first thing you're likely to want to do to an image is apply adjustments similar to levels and curves, but because the Tone Enhancer starts with T, that filter is #23 on the filter list. You really need to understand what all of the choices are before you start using PE9, and there are so many choices available to you.

OnOne's manual provides some rough guidance:
A new user can simply click on an filter and apply it. This is the easiest way to get started. [followed by brief instructions]

An intermediate user may try stacking filters and adjusting their strength. [followed by brief instructions]

An advanced user may stack multiple filters, adjust the strength, blending options, filter options and use the masking tools to selectively apply filters. [followed by brief instructions]
The confusion in there between filters and presets doesn't help.

The manual also offers this tidbit:
The filters in the Brightness, Contrast and Color Correction categories may be used early in the workflow for correcting the color and tone of an image. While filters in many categories are designed for a more artistic effect, it may be used in the middle of the process as well. Finally, Perfect Effects has several filters designed for sharpening in the Sharpening category that should be applied as the last step before printing.
Other than that, you're left with the video tutorials which, In My Opinion, aren't very helpful to the new user. Once you even find them, that is; the links from the manual are dead. The link from the Help menu at least gets you to where you can find the PE9 video tutorials. The "Getting Started" tutorial is a quick look at the layout of the UI, without even mentioning a few of the most valuable shortcut keys. There are a few tutorials on specific features, and a bunch on how some of the built-in presets were designed and how some particular images were processed. A few tutorials are for other OnOne products, not Perfect Effects. There's one half-hour introduction to PE9 for users of earlier versions, but nothing on workflow for the beginner, at all.

So, you're left to your own devices workflow-wise. I think OnOne seriously needs to address this huge hole in their documentation/tutorials. This is way too powerful of a program to throw users into the deep end of the pool.

PE9 demands a powerful CPU and graphics chip, with lots of memory. Even then, it can be sluggish. It also doesn't have a really good indicator of whether it's done or still churning away.

PE9 isn't intended to be a full-service image editor. Although it will kind-of handle Raw files, it doesn't offer any control over the Raw conversion. It also doesn't offer any kind of lens corrections, rotation, or clipping. You really need to have done all of that to your image before bringing it into PE9 if you're using it in standalone mode.

The masking features of PE9 look to be amazingly powerful. In addition to automatic mask generation, it's also got three automated tools for cleaning up the edges of masks. If these work as well as claimed, they should please even masking incompetents like me. I haven't really tried them out yet, though, so I can't personally vouch for them.

In summary, I'm very impressed by the tools provided for controlling tonality, color, and atmosphere, and by the masking features available for those tools. However, PE9 needs a powerful machine to run on, and there's no guidance provided for getting started with a workflow.
 
I use the On1 PP suite extensively. I also use the stuff from Topaz and Nik. All have their place in my editing workflow.

I generally agree with your comments regarding program complexity and inadequate tutorials. This is not easy stuff. I think On1 does the best it can with a multitude of vids, docs, books, etc. I think you just need to experiment a bit and develop your own style. (We are living in the age of 100,000 Android Apps - hardly any of which have user manuals).

In my own assessment, I think the suite has some powerful features. My main concern is over-application of filters, thereby producing some artificial effects. I think I prefer the Topaz suite. Same utility but more logical interface and more predictable results. Unfortunately, a bit more expensive.
 
I am a relative newcomer to PPS. I need a pixel, layer based editor to supplement Lightroom (so I don't need a RAW converter) after failed attempts to get to grips with Photoshop, and not liking Elements much. I also have Nik (yes, I suffer from SAS - Software Acquisition Syndrome), which I do like, but frustrated by the non-editability of Control Points once you leave the package. To cut a long story short, I settled on PPS as the best compromise.

I absolutely endorse the the lack of comprehensive tutorials as a weakness. Having recruited Matt K they really should be addressing that, not producing niche tutorials.

I have found the masking tools easy to use, but have really just replaced a few skies - there is a lot more to get to grips with.

I have fairly powerful computer, so performance is reasonable, but I would still very much like a progress bar so I know it is doing something, especially with the Quick Select tool.

Dave
 
I've been spending some time getting familiar with OnOne Perfect Effects 9 Premium, and here are my impressions.

It's an extremely powerful and complete package for controlling tonality, coloration, and atmosphere of an image. However, that much power and complexity demands a good user interface and excellent documentation, and Perfect Effects 9 doesn't have those.

The user interface is okay but not well-organized. My main gripe is that it alphabetizes your choices. For example, the first thing you're likely to want to do to an image is apply adjustments similar to levels and curves, but because the Tone Enhancer starts with T, that filter is #23 on the filter list. You really need to understand what all of the choices are before you start using PE9, and there are so many choices available to you.
Well that's not the best way to do it ! If you wont to adjust levels etc you go to the enhance module. each module has a title that tells you what it does.
OnOne's manual provides some rough guidance:
A new user can simply click on an filter and apply it. This is the easiest way to get started. [followed by brief instructions]

An intermediate user may try stacking filters and adjusting their strength. [followed by brief instructions]

An advanced user may stack multiple filters, adjust the strength, blending options, filter options and use the masking tools to selectively apply filters. [followed by brief instructions]
The confusion in there between filters and presets doesn't help.

The manual also offers this tidbit:
The filters in the Brightness, Contrast and Color Correction categories may be used early in the workflow for correcting the color and tone of an image. While filters in many categories are designed for a more artistic effect, it may be used in the middle of the process as well. Finally, Perfect Effects has several filters designed for sharpening in the Sharpening category that should be applied as the last step before printing.
Other than that, you're left with the video tutorials which, In My Opinion, aren't very helpful to the new user. Once you even find them, that is; the links from the manual are dead. The link from the Help menu at least gets you to where you can find the PE9 video tutorials. The "Getting Started" tutorial is a quick look at the layout of the UI, without even mentioning a few of the most valuable shortcut keys. There are a few tutorials on specific features, and a bunch on how some of the built-in presets were designed and how some particular images were processed. A few tutorials are for other OnOne products, not Perfect Effects. There's one half-hour introduction to PE9 for users of earlier versions, but nothing on workflow for the beginner, at all.
Yes there is only this week I have been watching live at lunchtime with Bob Campbell of On1 and The Photography Academy and part 3 is on Friday 13th @ 10:00 UK time. This started from the very basics.
So, you're left to your own devices workflow-wise. I think OnOne seriously needs to address this huge hole in their documentation/tutorials. This is way too powerful of a program to throw users into the deep end of the pool.

PE9 demands a powerful CPU and graphics chip, with lots of memory. Even then, it can be sluggish. It also doesn't have a really good indicator of whether it's done or still churning away.
Sometimes it will be slow as it is creating many layers with complex adjustments to each. The idea of the program is to simplify tasks that would be very complex to do in Photoshop and would take you some time.
PE9 isn't intended to be a full-service image editor. Although it will kind-of handle Raw files, it doesn't offer any control over the Raw conversion. It also doesn't offer any kind of lens corrections, rotation, or clipping. You really need to have done all of that to your image before bringing it into PE9 if you're using it in standalone mode.
Yes I would agree that you need to optimise in your RAW editor before bringing into the Suit. On1 are very confusing on this point. In US webinars they usualy state at the beginning that it is not a RAW processor but in the UK they do not mention this. Also they say it opens RAW's but this is misleading as it is no longer a RAW when opened and if the highlights are blown out you can't recover them like you can in a RAW.
The masking features of PE9 look to be amazingly powerful. In addition to automatic mask generation, it's also got three automated tools for cleaning up the edges of masks. If these work as well as claimed, they should please even masking incompetents like me. I haven't really tried them out yet, though, so I can't personally vouch for them.
From the webinars I have seen the masking is amazing.
In summary, I'm very impressed by the tools provided for controlling tonality, color, and atmosphere, and by the masking features available for those tools. However, PE9 needs a powerful machine to run on, and there's no guidance provided for getting started with a workflow.
You work progresivly through the modules as needed adding another layer with the + if you want to stack effects. If you don't add a layer your effect will be overwriten by the new effect or filter. When done you click apply and that takes you back to layers.
--
The open-source LightZone Project: http://lightzoneproject.org/
 
Well that's not the best way to do it ! If you wont to adjust levels etc you go to the enhance module.
Just to clarify: my review was of Perfect Effects 9 Premium, not the entire OnOne suite. OnOne is making PE9P available for free to members of 500px.
Sometimes it will be slow as it is creating many layers with complex adjustments to each.
Except that other products operate much more quickly. LightZone [which I'm affiliated with] and CameraBag are two similar programs that I've used extensively which are far quicker in their processing.
 
I think On1 does the best it can with a multitude of vids, docs, books, etc.
They haven't put out any documentation on fundamental workflow for PE9P. Their idea of documentation for beginners is to point out the main features of the UI. Then you're left completely on your own to figure out what the heck to do with the many hundreds of filters, adjustments, presets, etc., with no guidance whatsoever. I suspect that most people will write off Perfect Effects as being "another Instagram-type uglification program" without ever realizing what it's truly capable of.
We are living in the age of 100,000 Android Apps - hardly any of which have user manuals.
Those apps have limited functionality that is accessed through well-developed user interfaces (for the successful apps). PE9P probably could survive without a user manual if its user interface was more logically organized, with priority given to the more important features. Categorization would help, too. Instead, PE9P just gives you an alphabetical list of everything and leaves you to sort it all out.
 
seem an old thread, but wanted to thank you for the info
 

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