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Sunset Photo, CC please

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mreynolds767 said:
If anyone cares I can post a pic of the finished result.

Below is the edited final file

I did add more contrast and detail since many seemed to opt for that but kept it primarily to the sky and mid tones ; am not trying to get all the rocks in perfect detail on this as I striving for more of a moody look than an everything as sharp as possible landscape. Warmed up the rocks to get them less blue/more grey. There was limited light at the time I was there so this is close to reality. Added a little more color to the sky but tried not to go overboard as it probably was not quite as colorful as this at the time.

f1f799707ba64e778b7e169ae044edc7.jpg
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If you've already sent it out to be printed, then ignore the following. Otherwise...

Check for a halo in the foliage below the lighthouse and between the rock and water. It's very slight at the resolution you've posted here; I would guess that it would be more noticeable at higher resolutions.
 
KBKB: too late, will let you know what I see on the large print though.

It is on canvas so may not be seen on that surface anyway.

When I processed the image, I did use an Orton type glow effect, at a very low opacity ; but that can sometimes cause halos at the edges like where you are describing so might be what is showing.

I tried to mask some of the edges to prevent this on that effect but likely missed a spot or two.

Could also just be from sharpening and seen more at smaller file sizes and won't be seen on the print, but that is a total guess.

Many steps to now redo from scratch so likely won't do that, what would you suggest as a way to remove small halos like that on an otherwise finished image JPEG file in either LR or PS?
 
mreynolds767 said:
Many steps to now redo from scratch so likely won't do that, what would you suggest as a way to remove small halos like that on an otherwise finished image JPEG file in either LR or PS?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't redo the image from scratch.

In photoshop, I'd burn along the edges where you see a halo using a Lights 2 or Lights 3 luminosity selection. (That's just a guess based upon what I see. I'd try Lights 3 first and then move to Lights 2 if that doesn't have enough of an affect.)

As you probably know, you can burn by painting black into either a 50% grey or transparent layer with layer mode set to Soft Light or Overlay. (Soft Light is often preferred for burning and Overlay is often preferred for dodging.) There are several other ways of burning too, but this is my favorite because it's non-destructive. I.e. you can tweak adjustment layers below the burn layer if you wish. You can use the same layer for dodging if you like by painting white into it. If you have Tony Kuyper's panel (which I highly recommend), there's a button which creates separate dodge and burn layers.
 
mreynolds767 said:
Just learned those type of thing recently so will give it a go
I do have photoshop actions installed for what you describe not kb's but similar ones that were free on another site by jimmy McIntyre
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I haven't looked at Jimmy McIntyre's actions yet.

I use Tony Kuyper's panel for just about every image that I work on in Photoshop. I'll frequently use a curves adjustment layer using a Mid-tone Lights mask intersected with a sky selection to darken and add contrast to the sky without being too heavy handed. I also like the 3/4 Darks mask for increasing contrast in the foreground, though depending on the image a Mid-tone Darks mask sometimes works better. Sometimes, I'll use both of these on the foreground; I'll lighten the image using Mid-tone Darks and darken it using 3/4 Darks; this combination will increase constrast without plugging the shadows.
 
Appreciate those tips
Have just started using the selections on a couple of images this being my first so comprehend it l, still learning but definitely want to use and attempt to master it
Have read tk's tutorials on goodlight but they don't read all that clear so your specific tips help
Lightroom is much quicker/easier for most images but those 1% you really care about deserve more attention to detail

Think jimmy McIntyre's free actions are exactly the same but not certain of that (through strange lens)
Was planning to purchase his set of advanced video tutiriaks, have watched his free stuff
 
mreynolds767 said:
Appreciate those tips
Have just started using the selections on a couple of images this being my first so comprehend it l, still learning but definitely want to use and attempt to master it
Have read tk's tutorials on goodlight but they don't read all that clear so your specific tips help
Lightroom is much quicker/easier for most images but those 1% you really care about deserve more attention to detail

Think jimmy McIntyre's free actions are exactly the same but not certain of that (through strange lens)
Was planning to purchase his set of advanced video tutiriaks, have watched his free stuff
Click to expand...
Sean Bagshaw's videos on the TK Panel are also very good. See: http://www.outdoorexposurephoto.com...mplete-guide-to-luminosity-masks-tony-kuypers
 
KBKB,

Used the method you recommended and do think that cleaned up those areas.

That movement/blur I cannot correct as the foliage does have slight ghosting in spots from wind movement during the long exposure time.

Anyway, if you have a second would love to know if you think this new file looks better, even though already canvas is printed. I think the foliage areas are better now I did a couple of other little tweaks in other areas as well.
 

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mreynolds767 said:
KBKB,

Used the method you recommended and do think that cleaned up those areas.

That movement/blur I cannot correct as the foliage does have slight ghosting in spots from wind movement during the long exposure time.

Anyway, if you have a second would love to know if you think this new file looks better, even though already canvas is printed. I think the foliage areas are better now I did a couple of other little tweaks in other areas as well.
Click to expand...
I'm willing to look, but you need to post the file...
 
Yeah, forgot that step

I ended up doing a slightly modified solution to achieve the halo masking

Used Brights 2 ; first added an adjustment layer (curve but no change to curve) ; changed blending mode to Multiply which darkens everything too uch but the halos become the correct color.

Invert the mask, apply the Brights 2 and then paint through the multiply effect into the areas of haloing. I found it more forgiving than the other method if I painted a little outside the lines.

That was it, had a couple of small spots I clone stamped at the very end.

Result probably the same either way, as they are quite similar.

Very happy with the end result, just a little bummed I printed the canvas with the earlier file.

Oh well, live and learn and maybe on the rough canvas material it will not be noticeable?

Thanks again for your help



721bdff8e6f04f31b0e5cd412d414b93.jpg
 
mreynolds767 said:
Yeah, forgot that step

I ended up doing a slightly modified solution to achieve the halo masking

Used Brights 2 ; first added an adjustment layer (curve but no change to curve) ; changed blending mode to Multiply which darkens everything too uch but the halos become the correct color.

Invert the mask, apply the Brights 2 and then paint through the multiply effect into the areas of haloing. I found it more forgiving than the other method if I painted a little outside the lines.

That was it, had a couple of small spots I clone stamped at the very end.

Result probably the same either way, as they are quite similar.

Very happy with the end result, just a little bummed I printed the canvas with the earlier file.

Oh well, live and learn and maybe on the rough canvas material it will not be noticeable?

Thanks again for your help

721bdff8e6f04f31b0e5cd412d414b93.jpg
Click to expand...
Looks good.

I think you're right about the halos not being noticeable on canvas.
 
Well I received the canvas today and took a picture on the wall in my office

This is just a quick IPhone snapshot. The uploaded Iphone picture will look very fuzzy/grainy at 100% so best viewed smaller as the finished canvas is not fuzzy like that.

04c6621429dc434d9121609934803a02.jpg

Have to say I am a slightly disappointed with myself.

In the past my canvas prints have come out slightly brighter than my normal screen ; which turned out great since they were daylight type shots and portraits.

In this image, I did want a darker mood so I went darker to begin with and then as a last step I reduced the exposure -.15 before hitting save and upload on the file to the printer.

This was a mistake, the final print is darker than I wanted which results in shadow detail being hard to see. The sky looks good but the lighthouse does not stand out quite as much. The water is also much darker. Part of the darkness appears to be a result of the canvas printing I think as well.

To be perfectly honest though the finished result with not much detail on the left and in the shadows is representative of the scene at the time, I just think it looked better a bit brighter.

Also, I should have waited out the week and then would have had my final file to send which I prefer for a few different reasons which I won't bore everyone with.

Lesson learned on a couple of points.

Lastly the breaking into 2 frames probably does look a little weird. It is growing on me though, in general if I had another 12" Wide section on the right it would look great broken up into 3. Overall I think I am happy with the size decision of 16" x 32" and the only way I could make that work out was by breaking it up with this vendor. A smaller size would not be very impressive and any larger starts to push limits of the file quality I would imagine.

For wall hanging I have gone back and forth between no space, a few inches and temporarily settled on 1" space between on the white wall in my office.

Probably should have printed this on paper or metal as other members prefer. I have always like wrapped canvas and this was lower cost than anything framed but for a sharp landscape of sunsets/sunrises with large dark areas I am starting to question if canvas is the best format.

Based on the other canvases I have and this one, I think the material/printing process does an amazing job in bright areas but loses detail in darker areas.

Under close inspection I can see haloing in a few spots but only if looking from 1 foot or so close and only in a couple of areas. Having spend hours correcting those after I uploaded the file, I now exactly where all of the halos lie and the canvas material does hide most of them. From 5 feet away which is normal viewing distance (my chair is probably 8 feet away) you would never see or notice any halos.

The horizon appears perfectly straight on the finished canvas.

I do like the diagonal strong line that would have been lost if I went 3:1 pano with the image so think that was the right call, though of course my darkening the file caused the foreground rocks to be even less interesting, at least those on the left side below the lighthouse.

Overall it looks nice on the wall and is really big at 16" x 32" overall (16" x 12" and 16" x 20")

The sky IQ looks amazing even at this enlarged size and looking at the canvas from an 1" or so away.

I think I will keep it in my office at work for the time being, it looks nice on my wall. I am proud of the end result just regret a couple of snap decisions I made.

I am sure I will have more photos in the future to continually improve. Planning to visit a lighthouse or two this weekend.
 
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mreynolds767 said:
Well I received the canvas today and took a picture on the wall in my office

This is just a quick IPhone snapshot. The uploaded Iphone picture will look very fuzzy/grainy at 100% so best viewed smaller as the finished canvas is not fuzzy like that.

04c6621429dc434d9121609934803a02.jpg

Have to say I am a slightly disappointed with myself.

In the past my canvas prints have come out slightly brighter than my normal screen ; which turned out great since they were daylight type shots and portraits.

In this image, I did want a darker mood so I went darker to begin with and then as a last step I reduced the exposure -.15 before hitting save and upload on the file to the printer.

This was a mistake, the final print is darker than I wanted which results in shadow detail being hard to see. The sky looks good but the lighthouse does not stand out quite as much. The water is also much darker. Part of the darkness appears to be a result of the canvas printing I think as well.

To be perfectly honest though the finished result with not much detail on the left and in the shadows is representative of the scene at the time, I just think it looked better a bit brighter.

Also, I should have waited out the week and then would have had my final file to send which I prefer for a few different reasons which I won't bore everyone with.

Lesson learned on a couple of points.

Lastly the breaking into 2 frames probably does look a little weird. It is growing on me though, in general if I had another 12" Wide section on the right it would look great broken up into 3. Overall I think I am happy with the size decision of 16" x 32" and the only way I could make that work out was by breaking it up with this vendor. A smaller size would not be very impressive and any larger starts to push limits of the file quality I would imagine.

For wall hanging I have gone back and forth between no space, a few inches and temporarily settled on 1" space between on the white wall in my office.

Probably should have printed this on paper or metal as other members prefer. I have always like wrapped canvas and this was lower cost than anything framed but for a sharp landscape of sunsets/sunrises with large dark areas I am starting to question if canvas is the best format.

Based on the other canvases I have and this one, I think the material/printing process does an amazing job in bright areas but loses detail in darker areas.

Under close inspection I can see haloing in a few spots but only if looking from 1 foot or so close and only in a couple of areas. Having spend hours correcting those after I uploaded the file, I now exactly where all of the halos lie and the canvas material does hide most of them. From 5 feet away which is normal viewing distance (my chair is probably 8 feet away) you would never see or notice any halos.

The horizon appears perfectly straight on the finished canvas.

I do like the diagonal strong line that would have been lost if I went 3:1 pano with the image so think that was the right call, though of course my darkening the file caused the foreground rocks to be even less interesting, at least those on the left side below the lighthouse.

Overall it looks nice on the wall and is really big at 16" x 32" overall (16" x 12" and 16" x 20")

The sky IQ looks amazing even at this enlarged size and looking at the canvas from an 1" or so away.

I think I will keep it in my office at work for the time being, it looks nice on my wall. I am proud of the end result just regret a couple of snap decisions I made.

I am sure I will have more photos in the future to continually improve. Planning to visit a lighthouse or two this weekend.
Click to expand...
Looks good to me, although I'm not a fan of splitting inseveral pieces. But in the end you will grow to liking it more and more and of course people not as good as you at photography will love it!

Not sure if it is the iphone snap, but the panel on left looks lighter than panel on right?

--
Bill
Bill's Photos
 
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Thanks Bill!

Yeah that is just due to the Iphone picture and lighting. In my office there are lights coming from the left side so in the picture it looks that way. The right side is more accurate and both sides do match perfectly which is a relief.

Splitting the picture was more due to size requirement/limited options than an artistic or creative choice.
 
mreynolds767 said:
Probably should have printed this on paper or metal as other members prefer. I have always like wrapped canvas and this was lower cost than anything framed but for a sharp landscape of sunsets/sunrises with large dark areas I am starting to question if canvas is the best format.

Based on the other canvases I have and this one, I think the material/printing process does an amazing job in bright areas but loses detail in darker areas.
Click to expand...
I have very little experience with making prints, but I've read that canvas is especially good for images which are not especially sharp to begin with. (I'm not making a comment about your print. - it's just something to think about when you make other prints.)
mreynolds767 said:
Under close inspection I can see haloing in a few spots but only if looking from 1 foot or so close and only in a couple of areas. Having spend hours correcting those after I uploaded the file, I now exactly where all of the halos lie and the canvas material does hide most of them. From 5 feet away which is normal viewing distance (my chair is probably 8 feet away) you would never see or notice any halos.
Click to expand...
I think it's likely that few people will notice the halos. You know about them because you've worked on the image. When I show my photos to other people, I always notice things which I think are problems or things which I would have like to have done better. The person I'm showing it to never notices.
 
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