D3300 focus issue.

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Focault1

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I bought a D3300 Nikon to rekindle an interest in photography, but I'm having issues. Almost all of the images are out of focus to some degree and it doesn't seem to be lens, shutter speed, or aperture dependent. Both the auto-focused and manually focused scenes look tack sharp in the viewfinder and I get the green light from the rangefinder, but they look VERY soft or unfocused when I view the files in Lightroom. I shoot in RAW, but JPEGS are the same.

Is this typical of "entry level" cameras or should I suspect a defect with the camera? If it is an "entry level" issue, would the step up to the D7100 be expected to output sharper images given its focus adjustment ability?



Thanks
 
I bought a D3300 Nikon to rekindle an interest in photography, but I'm having issues. Almost all of the images are out of focus to some degree and it doesn't seem to be lens, shutter speed, or aperture dependent. Both the auto-focused and manually focused scenes look tack sharp in the viewfinder and I get the green light from the rangefinder, but they look VERY soft or unfocused when I view the files in Lightroom. I shoot in RAW, but JPEGS are the same.

Is this typical of "entry level" cameras or should I suspect a defect with the camera? If it is an "entry level" issue, would the step up to the D7100 be expected to output sharper images given its focus adjustment ability?

Thanks
Compare your High shutter-speed shots (To mitigate camera shake and mirror slap faster than 1/400s) using Live view then regular viewfinder focus. A high contrast flat target on a wall works best. If Live-view is consistently better focused, you may want to have service re-calibrate the AF.
 
I bought a D3300 Nikon to rekindle an interest in photography, but I'm having issues. Almost all of the images are out of focus to some degree and it doesn't seem to be lens, shutter speed, or aperture dependent. Both the auto-focused and manually focused scenes look tack sharp in the viewfinder and I get the green light from the rangefinder, but they look VERY soft or unfocused when I view the files in Lightroom. I shoot in RAW, but JPEGS are the same.

Is this typical of "entry level" cameras or should I suspect a defect with the camera? If it is an "entry level" issue, would the step up to the D7100 be expected to output sharper images given its focus adjustment ability?

Thanks
Hi.

If they look very Sharp in the viewfinder - and you get the green dot - I'm afraid I'm mistaken user-shake, when pressing the shutter-button.

As Mako suggested - try with some higher shutter-speeds - and exercise your shutter pressure to be calm, soft and "surprising" for you. Also train breathing like if you were using a gun. (Intake - half out and keep breath.)

BirgerH.
 
Thanks for the reply and the suggestion. I doubt shutter speed is the issue, as the condition happens even at 1/1000 or shorter and with VR on. I have noticed that when focused using Live View, the images look a lot sharper if that is any help.
 
Thanks for the reply and the suggestion. I doubt shutter speed is the issue, as the condition happens even at 1/1000 or shorter and with VR on. I have noticed that when focused using Live View, the images look a lot sharper if that is any help.
If that is always the case, then you may need to have the body and/or lens re-calibrated
 
Thanks to all of you for the help and suggestions. Further tests have shown that the camera consistantly focuses forward of the subject. With the 18-55mm lens and shooting the bricks on my house at an angle of about 45 degrees, the area of sharpest focus is always in front of the point on which I focus. At 8 feet the error is about 3 inches. I may give Nikon a call and see what's up.

I appreciate the help, thanks!
 
Sorry to hear about your troubles... your case sounds typical. I've had several Nikons that constantly misfocused. Even my D610 back focused a 24-70mm F2.8 that I got from Lens Rentals.

Anyway, I don't think the end user having the ability to fix their lens is an upgrade feature. Nikon needs to make this a standard or provide some automated calibration instead. I wonder how many cameras are actually out of spec but users fail to identify the problem.
 
Not only was I disappointed to see my camera forward focusing, but I was surprised to see how many times I see reference to this condition. What is really disheartening is that the only solution is for the camera and a lens to go back to the factory which, from what I understand, may result in issues for my lenses that don't get calibrated with the camera.

I suppose the thinking is that given the level of expectation of a typical entry level user, and the fact that small web-based images will be 95% of the image use, there is little motivation to remedy camera-lens focus variation.

I'll chalk this up to my omission in not doing enough research prior to my purchase.
 
Not only was I disappointed to see my camera forward focusing, but I was surprised to see how many times I see reference to this condition.
Actually doesn't show up that often when you consider how many units out there.
What is really disheartening is that the only solution is for the camera and a lens to go back to the factory which, from what I understand, may result in issues for my lenses that don't get calibrated with the camera.
That's normal. The tolerances are such that to get every lens to be perfect with every camera...isn't realistic. More obvious now as resolution has really increased and folks looks at 100% views more often than 8 x10's on the wall. Some have even gone back and checked older cameras only to find they too front/back focused a bit but never noticed.
I suppose the thinking is that given the level of expectation of a typical entry level user, and the fact that small web-based images will be 95% of the image use, there is little motivation to remedy camera-lens focus variation.
Not an issue with just entry level bodies...an issue with all bodies from all manufactures.
I'll chalk this up to my omission in not doing enough research prior to my purchase.
Yep, Now days...I think AF fine tune is a must have feature. Good Luck and happy shooting.
 
Does the auto-focus fine tune offered on the enthusiast level cameras (like the D7100) offer enough adjustment range to eliminate issues such as I am experiencing? Assuming of course, that the issue is the result of typical production variation.

I'm just guessing, but this ability to fine tune sounds like it is a firmware implementation in the camera. That seems like a low cost solution for any level camera. From what I have learned, the phase detection system is a high-tolerance arrangement involving moving parts, and when coupled with lens production variation and aging, an adjustable system makes sense.



Regarding the frequency of occurrence, I wonder if the low frequency might not be do in part to the inability of a typical entry-level user to identify it.
 
Does the auto-focus fine tune offered on the enthusiast level cameras (like the D7100) offer enough adjustment range to eliminate issues such as I am experiencing?
In the vast majority of cases, Yes.
Assuming of course, that the issue is the result of typical production variation.
That is what the feature is for...to allow the user to correct for sample variations of both bodies and lenses.
I'm just guessing, but this ability to fine tune sounds like it is a firmware implementation in the camera.
Just ads a "delta" correction to the normal PDAF calculation. Tells the focus motor to stop at the normal point plus the "delta"
That seems like a low cost solution for any level camera. From what I have learned, the phase detection system is a high-tolerance arrangement involving moving parts, and when coupled with lens production variation and aging, an adjustable system makes sense.
Used to be a feature only in the very high end Pro models.
Regarding the frequency of occurrence, I wonder if the low frequency might not be do in part to the inability of a typical entry-level user to identify it.
To some degree. Often focus issues don't pop-up unless you go looking. You might also be surprised to see how often they are actually present in older models.
 
Regarding older cameras, in the film days and as a younger fellow, I shot with a Canon Ftb and was constantly trying to equal the wonderful sharpness that a pro photographer friend produced. Try as I might, it never happened and I wrote it off as him using superior equipment.

Fifteen years later my camera broke and I picked up a used Ftb body only to discover, in my first roll of film, that all the prints were tack sharp. All those years I had a defective camera and didn't know better!
 
Does the auto-focus fine tune offered on the enthusiast level cameras (like the D7100) offer enough adjustment range to eliminate issues such as I am experiencing? Assuming of course, that the issue is the result of typical production variation.
Yes - probably - but if I had a camera, that did the focus wrong to all my lenses at all conditions, as you describe - I would have it factory-checked instead of in-camera-finetuned. It would to me mean, that the AF-module should be physically adjusted.
I'm just guessing, but this ability to fine tune sounds like it is a firmware implementation in the camera. That seems like a low cost solution for any level camera. From what I have learned, the phase detection system is a high-tolerance arrangement involving moving parts, and when coupled with lens production variation and aging, an adjustable system makes sense.
I doubth. The D3300 uses an (old) CAM 1000 (I think it is) that is made, when sensor technology was 12MP - and the needed accuracy for the AF-module was in the same leaque. I don't think, there is a software possibility to adjust this system - only physically adjustments - and this have to be far more accurate when used for a sensor with two times the density.

Having the ability to all entry-level cameras- if I was Nikon - I would say no.

The D3300 (and a long way the D5x00) is targeted to the Point-and-shooters - not to people familiar to cameras and photography, like you. Not that it can't be used as a very exellent Tool - but it is not the deep intension.

Having abilities to change i.e focus-adjustments for the one who knows how - would mean that the million, who doesn't would go beck for warranty-repair, when they had screwed it up. That's a high cost which can't be included in the low camera-price.

Buying cheap (or cheaper) does too mean having limitations.
Regarding the frequency of occurrence, I wonder if the low frequency might not be do in part to the inability of a typical entry-level user to identify it.
I don't really believe that frequency is that high. If everybody was forced to report AF-accuracy - the number of faulties would in my opinion be very minor.

I have had four Nikon DSLR's - all consumers - and a similar number of SLR's - none of them have had AF-focus faults.

Lenses - I have only one, that gives me troubles - it's not a Nikon - it's bought used (and cheap) - and I have come to the conclusion, that it is something to the motor - not the adjustment of the glasses (not quite sure, cause the problem is temporary and rare.)

Summary: I would have Nikon looking at the camera while still under warranty, if it was mine.

Regards

BirgerH.
 
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it seems that many entry level users probably don't look for focus accuracy.. and hence not really important as the scene to them .:)

I bought a really cheap D3200 body for backup only and after using with a 50mm f1.8 G wide open I notice it was not spot on with it's focusing... This was the same with other lnses too.

As my camera was nearly of its refurb warranty and could not be bothered to send it in I had a go myself


I don't recommend this approach for a new body.. for obvious reasons. However I'm really happy that the accuracy is very near to Live View AF.

Hope they fix your quickly :)
 
Thanks for all the input from everyone; this forum is a great resource.



I have decided to eliminate any possibility of technique as the source of the error, so I'm dedicating this evening to a series of tests. I'm going to mount the camera on a tripod and auto-focus on a diagonal test chart, releasing the shutter with my newly acquired cable release. I'm going to use the kit lens, the 18-55, as that is likely the one the factory calibrates for. If the exposures with this test proves the front-focus issue, then I'll contact the factory about getting it calibrated. With the camera being new, this is the best course of action.

If I do prove a focus problem, I guess the question then becomes: what can I expect when I contact the factory? If anyone has been down this road, I'll appreciate hearing about their experience and the outcome.



Thanks in advance.
 
Thanks for all the input from everyone; this forum is a great resource.

I have decided to eliminate any possibility of technique as the source of the error, so I'm dedicating this evening to a series of tests. I'm going to mount the camera on a tripod and auto-focus on a diagonal test chart
The nature of the 2d aspect of the PDAF focus arrays, can results in using a slanted target giving false results at times. Always best to use a high contrast flat target with an angled scale off to the side. Similar to this setup:

AF fine tune setup
, releasing the shutter with my newly acquired cable release. I'm going to use the kit lens, the 18-55, as that is likely the one the factory calibrates for.
The factory uses a 59mm prime as it's normal calibration lens.
If the exposures with this test proves the front-focus issue, then I'll contact the factory about getting it calibrated. With the camera being new, this is the best course of action.
Good move, IMO.
If I do prove a focus problem, I guess the question then becomes: what can I expect when I contact the factory? If anyone has been down this road, I'll appreciate hearing about their experience and the outcome.
Normally, with images showing the issue (done using a technique similar to the one I linked), they are relatively quick to get on it. Relative being the key word :) seems like 1-3 weeks turnaround. Be sure the images you send them have full EXIF. Good Luck
Thanks in advance.
 
Mako2011,

I created the focus test as described in the link in your reply. Target vertical with the camera to target distance 50X the lens f.l. Iso set to 200, VR off, the center AF point selected, and the lens set to af on. I tested two my two Nikon lenses--the 18-55mm VRII and the 40mm f/2.8 micro. For the 18-55mm test, I set its f.l. to 40mm so that I could maintain the tripod setup and test distance. Both lenses were tested at their largest aperture, f/2.8 for the micro and f/4.8 for the 18-55mm. As in the link setup, the target face is at the 16" mark on the tape measure. Three exposures were made in auto focus and two in live view. The lens was defocused between frames. Here are the results.

!8-55mm lens set to 40mm, f/4.8

Live View frame 1 - best focus at 33"
Live View frame 2 - best focus at 33"

Auto focus frame 1 - best focus at 33-34"
Auto focus frame 2 - best focus at 33-34"
Auto focus frame 3 - best focus at 33-34"

40mm micro at f/2.8

Live View frame 1 - best focus at 13"
Live View frame 2 - best focus at 13-14"

Auto focus frame 1 - best focus at 22"
Auto focus frame 2 - best focus at 21"
Auto focus frame 3 - best focus at 21"

When I saw the results, I repeated the test and arrived at the identical results. I am a retired engineer and pretty methodical, I believe these results accurately reflect the camera's system performance, although I am at a loss to accurately explain it.

Based on the 18-55mm test, I would guess that there is some fundamental fault with this lens. The 40mm micro test, while it clearly shows a front focus issue, doesn't display the gross error of the 18-55mm lens. I'm thinking that the 18-55mm lens has a problem and the camera is out of adjustment.

Perhaps you could offer some insight. I believe that I am correct in seeking some factory service for this camera and the 18-55mm lens. Given the numbers, I wonder if a simple calibration will be sufficient to correct the issues.

Regards and thanks.
 
Thanks to all of you for the help and suggestions. Further tests have shown that the camera consistantly focuses forward of the subject. With the 18-55mm lens and shooting the bricks on my house at an angle of about 45 degrees, the area of sharpest focus is always in front of the point on which I focus. At 8 feet the error is about 3 inches. I may give Nikon a call and see what's up.

I appreciate the help, thanks!
I wouldn't exactly trust your testing methods either, better to test straight on then at a 45 degree angle.
 
Perhaps you could offer some insight. I believe that I am correct in seeking some factory service for this camera and the 18-55mm lens. Given the numbers, I wonder if a simple calibration will be sufficient to correct the issues.
Remember that the lens can be slightly off of perfect and the camera as well (tolerances differ). Your two lenses may be off in different directions (and by a different amount) and combine that with the body being off a little...is why you see different results with different lenses. Also note the zoom might be off by a different amount and direction at different focal lengths. That said...I think Nikon can help get you closer to optimal. May not be perfect when it returns but very close. IMO. So close that the practical affect on your photography will be negligible. I would call Nikon and discuss what you found.
 
Thanks to you and the other folks that offered support. I'll contact Nikon tomorrow. Hopefully they can return a useable product, because frankly, this has been a rather disappointing exposure to the brand.
 
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