Nikon D7000

Every copy of the 55-300mm that I've laid my hands on was soft to some degree at 300mm regardless of aperture...and most review sites will concur. Never said it was "trash" and I think it's a lot of lens for the price, but you can't sugarcoat the fact that it's fairly well documented that this lens softens at its longer focal lengths, but one can mitigate somewhat at f/8 or f/11 if light allows. Yes, I've seen some "extraordinary" copies of kits lenses, too...but I'm not sure what your point is.
I don't argue with you or anyone, nor do I blindly quote DXO, nor do I need to sugarcoat anything. I find out for myself by actually shooting with the lens for months. This is what I wrote earlier in this thread:
Both Nikkor 55-300mm and 70-300mm weaken starting from around 220mm and perform badly at 300mm, especially at maximum aperture of f/5.6. The former tends to render less sharp and less contrasty images than the latter, in general. This is not to say that these lens are "thrash" -- they are pretty good if used within their respective performance perimeters, and that means spending quality time with the gear at hand.
Someone might say, "But I don't seem to have the same observations." And I would fully respect that statement. No problems at all, because what am I to know any better, I'm just a slave to the Japanese masters.
 
Every copy of the 55-300mm that I've laid my hands on was soft to some degree at 300mm regardless of aperture...and most review sites will concur. Never said it was "trash" and I think it's a lot of lens for the price, but you can't sugarcoat the fact that it's fairly well documented that this lens softens at its longer focal lengths, but one can mitigate somewhat at f/8 or f/11 if light allows. Yes, I've seen some "extraordinary" copies of kits lenses, too...but I'm not sure what your point is.
I don't argue with you or anyone, nor do I blindly quote DXO, nor do I need to sugarcoat anything. I find out for myself by actually shooting with the lens for months. This is what I wrote earlier in this thread:
Both Nikkor 55-300mm and 70-300mm weaken starting from around 220mm and perform badly at 300mm, especially at maximum aperture of f/5.6. The former tends to render less sharp and less contrasty images than the latter, in general. This is not to say that these lens are "thrash" -- they are pretty good if used within their respective performance perimeters, and that means spending quality time with the gear at hand.
Someone might say, "But I don't seem to have the same observations." And I would fully respect that statement. No problems at all, because what am I to know any better, I'm just a slave to the Japanese masters.
No worries, Kaso...I believe we're on the same page.
 
Something else I forgot to mention, your lens will sharpen up a bit more if you can stop down to f/8 or even f/11. This means slower shutter speeds will result but on a bright day they should be fine. Don't hesitate to increase ISO to 400-800 to help keep the speeds up.
Great advice.

For that little bird, I'd use f/8, 1/800s and ISO 800. Light appeared bright enough, but was lacking clear direction that would enhance contrast. I'd do some post processing on NEF, but I'd refrain from cropping excessively. Last but not least, no PP can fix focus -- to me, all out-of-focus and blurry/shaky images go straight to the garbage bin, no exception, no blaming camera/lens.

Both Nikkor 55-300mm and 70-300mm weaken starting from around 220mm and perform badly at 300mm, especially at maximum aperture of f/5.6. The former tends to render less sharp and less contrasty images than the latter, in general. This is not to say that these lens are "thrash" -- they are pretty good if used within their respective performance perimeters, and that means spending quality time with the gear at hand. Buying a new lens is easy, but making the best from a lens takes commitment.

I've used the two above, plus the Tamron 70-300mm VC. I'd recommend this Tamron, which performs solidly throughout the range, to those needing the reach. I sold them all because I've realized macros, portraits and landscapes are my interests, not birds.
I completely agree. Well said.
 
Hi,

I recently purchased a Nikon D7000 with a Nikon 18mm to 140mm and a 55mm to 300mm lens, the latter primarily to do wildlife, especially birds.

So far I have been disappointed with the results. I have had much better results with my Panasonic FZ150.

Is there a lens other than the 55-300 which will give me a chance at better results without having to sell my house?
You are right the FZ150 is hard to beat for the money. But it's also easy to beat the 55-300. Look at the Tamron 70-300 VC, or Nikon 70-300 VR. They're both good in the $300 USD range (used market).

The upside is you can add lots of extremely good lenses eventually like the 300mm AF-S f/4 without having to sell your house. Maybe your car but not your house.

Greg
Thank you Greg. I will check out the lenses you mention.

I have had some pretty good results using the older non auto Nikon lenses like the 300 mm and the 500 mm reflex, but they are very difficult to use, especially for quick moving birds!
Well, I wouldn't go replacing any hardware yet. The FZ150 has some nice advantages, one of which being it's sharp at 600mm.

The D7000 and 55-300 have advantages too. The AF-C autofocus, speed, controls and ISO of the D7000 are hugely better. But they also take a long time to master. I didn't begin to enjoy the D7000 until I got around 10k shots on it.

If using JPEG would begin with setting it to Landscape color and boost sharpening to +6. Set to AF-C and 9-point AF and just compose with the center square then explore from there. If shooting at 300mm keep the shutter speed at least 1/500. Also if you're shooting above 1/500 just disable VR on the lens.
Thank you for the excellent information, Inlawbiker. I am going to print it out and have it right next to my camera.

Regards, Ken.
 
Every copy of the 55-300mm that I've laid my hands on was soft to some degree at 300mm regardless of aperture...and most review sites will concur. Never said it was "trash" and I think it's a lot of lens for the price, but you can't sugarcoat the fact that it's fairly well documented that this lens softens at its longer focal lengths, but one can mitigate somewhat at f/8 or f/11 if light allows. Yes, I've seen some "extraordinary" copies of kits lenses, too...but I'm not sure what your point is.
I don't argue with you or anyone, nor do I blindly quote DXO, nor do I need to sugarcoat anything. I find out for myself by actually shooting with the lens for months. This is what I wrote earlier in this thread:
Both Nikkor 55-300mm and 70-300mm weaken starting from around 220mm and perform badly at 300mm, especially at maximum aperture of f/5.6. The former tends to render less sharp and less contrasty images than the latter, in general. This is not to say that these lens are "thrash" -- they are pretty good if used within their respective performance perimeters, and that means spending quality time with the gear at hand.
Someone might say, "But I don't seem to have the same observations." And I would fully respect that statement. No problems at all, because what am I to know any better, I'm just a slave to the Japanese masters.
And I didn't say, you were wrong - just that I can't find test-result showing, that the lens should perform significantly better with smaller apertures at the long end. Actually - in Thom's review he notes, that, at 300mm it is best wide open - just opposite to your experience.

So no arguing - just saying?

BirgerH.
 
You're welcome! I'm glad I can be of some help.

Something else I forgot to mention, your lens will sharpen up a bit more if you can stop down to f/8 or even f/11. This means slower shutter speeds will result but on a bright day they should be fine. Don't hesitate to increase ISO to 400-800 to help keep the speeds up.

Also, check this thread: http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/55266672 Evan is getting nice results from the same lens (although different body). It's probably not an apples to apples comparison but maybe there's something to learn there as well.
Thank you again Rlyons. How does the D5300 compare with my D7000? What about the D40 which I also have, how do they stack up?

Regards, Ken.
For what it's worth, Evan was killing it with that 55-300mm on his D5100 -- which shares the same sensor as your D7000 -- prior to him acquiring a D5300. He seems to have gotten an extraordinary copy of that lens that bucks the "soft at 300mm" label that it's hung with.
Thank Gerald, That gives me a little encouragement.

I have taken three more photos of the same subjects with the same equipment but using the improvements that you good people here have given me to try.

I think there is a decent improvement, but there is more to learn with the experience of working with what you guys have tought me. Also a little Photoshop.

Thank you and Regards, Ken.



 
Hi Ken,

I own a D7000 and have photographed fast-moving subjects on many occasions, and with a fairly high hit rate. Therefore I'm tempted to conclude that either (a) you don't have the proper settings, or (b) you bought a malfunctioning 2nd hand camera.

For the settings, and sorry if I'm stating the obvious here:
- you need to set the camera to continuous AF
- once the camera is set to the continuous AF, you can adjust the number of points that you want. Single point works well but can occasionally be fooled with more erratically moving subjects. This being said most birds do NOT move erratically but follow a flight path.
- you'll also generally get better results if you set the metering to Spot, so that the camera meters off the bird rather than averaging over the whole scene
- finally needless to say that you'll need a sufficiently fast shutter speed (unless you're attempting clear body fuzzy wings). I've found that even birds "at rest" make a lot of tiny movements such that 1/200th is a good starting point. In any case the D7000 can deliver quite clean images at least up to ISO 1600 or even 3200 so unless you're photographing in fairly low light this should not be an issue.

Now what else could it be?
- your Nikon D7000 could be faulty. Especially if you bought it 2nd hand.
- the lens could have an issue
- the AF could need fine-tuning

How can you test?
- with camera on a tripod (or resting on a table), photograph any static object, in decent light, on Single shot AF. Image should be crisp. Now repeat, but this time in Live View mode. If the image in Live View is sharper, then the AF needs to be fine-tuned for that lens. The web is full of how-to's for this, and you don't need to buy any special equipment (though many vendors will be happy to suggest that you should ;-)
- with camera in hand, just playing with it taking shots of various still subjects, near and far, the AF should be fast enough. Note that with the lenses you have the AF will NOT be instantenous, but it should be fast enough.
- set camera on AF-C, focus (half press shutter button) on any static object at mid-distance, then make small movements with the camera. You should hear the AF-C work, see the focus indicators move around in the meter, and the image should stay sharp.

Hope this helps - good luck!
Hi,

I recently purchased a Nikon D7000 with a Nikon 18mm to 140mm and a 55mm to 300mm lens, the latter primarily to do wildlife, especially birds.

So far I have been disappointed with the results. I have had much better results with my Panasonic FZ150.

Is there a lens other than the 55-300 which will give me a chance at better results without having to sell my house?

The focus on the FZ150 is the primary reason for me going to the D7000. I had hoped to get better focus on fast moving birds, but that has not worked out that way yet.

What do you 'birders' out there use with the D7000, or did I go terribily wrong?

Thank you for any help you can give me.

Regards, Ken.
Thank you for all the good information, Antoineb, I will copy it and have it near my camera.

Please check my updated photos using what you kind people have taught me today. There is room for much improvement on my part, but thanks to all of you, i am on the right track.

Thanks again, regards, Ken.
 
So far I have been disappointed with the results.
What did you do with the camera? What do the results look like?

You cannot expect to just pick up a DSLR and get awesome images. There are many settings to be mastered for certain situations. I'm not talking about "basic" skills -- I'm taking about really practicing with the capabilities pertinent to your D7000 and your lenses. You must spend a lot of quality time with the gear in order to use it properly.

(I can get excellent results with a D3200 plus 18-55mm kit lens. I can also get excellent results with a 5D Mark III and with a PowerShot ELPH 330 HS.)
Please check my updated photos using what you kind people have taught me today, posted with Geraldhines. There is room for much improvement on my part, but thanks to all of you, I am on the right track.

Thanks again, regards, Ken.
 
You haven't really said what it is that is disappointing you with the D7000. What problems are you having? If possible, please post some images that demonstrate the problems. You'll get much better feedback if people here know what the specific problems are.

Michael
Very good point Michael, thank you!

My main problem is sharpness at full telephoto. I have had some decent shots with the FZ150 and thought that when I upgraded to a much larger sensor and arguably a better camera, I would see at least some improvement in IQ, even given the learning curve involved. This isn't my first rodeo, but it is my first digital SLR!

I have been dissappointed by the 55-300 at 300mm because it does not appear as sharp as some of my photos taken with the FZ150. See attached samples, the Red Tail Hawk was shot with the FZ150, the other was taken with the D7000 and 55-300. Both have had a little cropping and sharpening.

Some of my old Nikkor F non-auto lenses have worked OK. but are very difficult to use with quick moving birds. I can not afford a really nice Nikon auto telephoto.

Regards, Ken.

http://i61.tinypic.com/30m4dg7.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/domj6a.jpg
Well Ken - that Little bird is not that bad at all with that lens, I would say. But it is not the sharpest knife in the drawer, as others have already said.

I found a compare to the Nikon 70-300 and the Tamron 70-300. As the Tamron is not tested on a 16MP camera, the compare is made on the D300.

http://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Compa...mm-F4-5.6-Di-VC-USD-Nikon___324_0_262_0_281_0

Go to "Measurements", "Sharpness" and "Fieldmap" - choose "300mm" and look at the (huge) difference - and I can assure you, that this difference is even "huger" on the D7000.

Sadly enough, the 55-300 doesn't seem to get any better stopped Down a bit.

But look at this:

http://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Compa...mm-F4-5.6-Di-VC-USD-Nikon___324_0_262_0_281_0

and look at 200mm - then you speak sharpness. The 70-200 f:4 is about the double Price as the 70-300 - and you'll have to get closer - looking at your Eagle - I would say that it is worth it.

Just a kick of input :-)

BirgerH.
Please check my updated photos using what you kind people have taught me today, posted with Geraldhines. There is room for much improvement on my part, but thanks to all of you, I am on the right track.

Thanks again, regards, Ken.
 
You haven't really said what it is that is disappointing you with the D7000. What problems are you having? If possible, please post some images that demonstrate the problems. You'll get much better feedback if people here know what the specific problems are.

Michael
Very good point Michael, thank you!

My main problem is sharpness at full telephoto. I have had some decent shots with the FZ150 and thought that when I upgraded to a much larger sensor and arguably a better camera, I would see at least some improvement in IQ, even given the learning curve involved. This isn't my first rodeo, but it is my first digital SLR!

I have been dissappointed by the 55-300 at 300mm because it does not appear as sharp as some of my photos taken with the FZ150. See attached samples, the Red Tail Hawk was shot with the FZ150, the other was taken with the D7000 and 55-300. Both have had a little cropping and sharpening.

Some of my old Nikkor F non-auto lenses have worked OK. but are very difficult to use with quick moving birds. I can not afford a really nice Nikon auto telephoto.

Regards, Ken.

http://i61.tinypic.com/30m4dg7.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/domj6a.jpg
Unfortunately, that's about as good as I would expect that bird to be on that lens at 300mm with that much crop. You've essentially gone from 16mp down to 0.5mp, removing 97% of the pixels.

I also see that your shutter is 1/200 which is on the slow side for that lens. However, in this case I don't think it contributed significantly to the poor IQ.

The other image is sharper, but only because the subject is 6-8X larger and the in-camera sharpening appears to be doing more work.

Here's your same image with only a hint of extra sharpening applied via Aperture, I'm sure someone with some expertise and a slightly better starting point could do better. This does show that with that lens/body combo you can likely achieve some stellar images with some minor post-capture processing.

Sharpening added: Intensity: 0.4 Radius: 2.36
Sharpening added: Intensity: 0.4 Radius: 2.36

You will significantly increase your IQ output by 1. Getting closer to your subject (I know, not always easy for birds) 2. Cropping less (need bigger subject to work with) 3. Some minor post-capture processing to increase sharpness. 4. Faster shutter speeds (stick with 1/zoom length or faster for handheld, but even much faster for BIFs).

Nice captures though, I like the first one. I just don't have the patience for birds but have attempted it a few times.

Good luck!
Please check my updated photos using what you kind people have taught me today, posted with Geraldhines. There is room for much improvement on my part, but thanks to all of you, I am on the right track.

Thanks again, regards, Ken.
 
Hi,

I recently purchased a Nikon D7000 with a Nikon 18mm to 140mm and a 55mm to 300mm lens, the latter primarily to do wildlife, especially birds.

So far I have been disappointed with the results. I have had much better results with my Panasonic FZ150.

Is there a lens other than the 55-300 which will give me a chance at better results without having to sell my house?
You are right the FZ150 is hard to beat for the money. But it's also easy to beat the 55-300. Look at the Tamron 70-300 VC, or Nikon 70-300 VR. They're both good in the $300 USD range (used market).

The upside is you can add lots of extremely good lenses eventually like the 300mm AF-S f/4 without having to sell your house. Maybe your car but not your house.

Greg
Please check my updated photos using what you kind people have taught me today, posted with Geraldhines. There is room for much improvement on my part, but thanks to all of you, I am on the right track.

Thanks again, regards, Ken.
 
For what it's worth, Evan was killing it with that 55-300mm on his D5100 -- which shares the same sensor as your D7000 -- prior to him acquiring a D5300. He seems to have gotten an extraordinary copy of that lens that bucks the "soft at 300mm" label that it's hung with.
Well, that label bears some truth but is incomplete -- soft at 300mm at which apertures? In competent hands, that lens is no "trash" and can perform well in certain conditions.

Same can be said about "kit" lenses. I happen to have received extraordinary copies of kit lens with my camera bodies. ;)
Please check my updated photos using what you kind people have taught me today, posted with Geraldhines. There is room for much improvement on my part, but thanks to all of you, I am on the right track.

Thanks again, regards, Ken.
 
Hi,

I recently purchased a Nikon D7000 with a Nikon 18mm to 140mm and a 55mm to 300mm lens, the latter primarily to do wildlife, especially birds.

So far I have been disappointed with the results. I have had much better results with my Panasonic FZ150.

Is there a lens other than the 55-300 which will give me a chance at better results without having to sell my house?
You are right the FZ150 is hard to beat for the money. But it's also easy to beat the 55-300. Look at the Tamron 70-300 VC, or Nikon 70-300 VR. They're both good in the $300 USD range (used market).

The upside is you can add lots of extremely good lenses eventually like the 300mm AF-S f/4 without having to sell your house. Maybe your car but not your house.

Greg
Thank you Greg. I will check out the lenses you mention.

I have had some pretty good results using the older non auto Nikon lenses like the 300 mm and the 500 mm reflex, but they are very difficult to use, especially for quick moving birds!
Well, I wouldn't go replacing any hardware yet. The FZ150 has some nice advantages, one of which being it's sharp at 600mm.

The D7000 and 55-300 have advantages too. The AF-C autofocus, speed, controls and ISO of the D7000 are hugely better. But they also take a long time to master. I didn't begin to enjoy the D7000 until I got around 10k shots on it.

If using JPEG would begin with setting it to Landscape color and boost sharpening to +6. Set to AF-C and 9-point AF and just compose with the center square then explore from there. If shooting at 300mm keep the shutter speed at least 1/500. Also if you're shooting above 1/500 just disable VR on the lens.
I have taken three more photos of the same subjects with the same equipment but using the improvements that you good people here have given me to try.

I think there is a decent improvement, but there is more to learn with the experience of working with what you guys have tought me. Also a little Photoshop.

Thank you and Regards, Ken.

http://i61.tinypic.com/2napg84.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/j8gsc9.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/11llgs4.jpg
 
Hi Ken,

Here are the focus settings that you should use with a D7000.

Set AF mode to AF-C

a1
- AF-C priority set to focus during testing. Release preferred for general photography.
a3 - Set to OFF.
a6 - Number of viewfinder focus points = 11 (optional)
f5
- Assign AEL/AFL button to AF lock only.

I choose the number of auto area focus points based on the requirements of my subject.

· 1 point for static or slow moving objects. (preferred)

· 9 points for predictable direction moving subjects without background clutter.

· 21 points for erratic moving subjects (like hummingbirds), that only fill a small portion of the scene.

With this AF set-up, keep your shutter button half pressed so the lens continuously adjusts focus until you actually fully depress the shutter. Focus and re-compose is accomplished by pushing and holding down the AFL button after subject focus is achieved.

good luck!

Jim
I have taken three more photos of the same subjects with the same equipment but using the improvements that you good people here have given me to try.

I think there is a decent improvement, but there is more to learn with the experience of working with what you guys have tought me. Also a little Photoshop.

Thank you and Regards, Ken.

http://i61.tinypic.com/2napg84.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/j8gsc9.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/11llgs4.jpg
 
Hi Ken,

Here are the focus settings that you should use with a D7000.

Set AF mode to AF-C

a1
- AF-C priority set to focus during testing. Release preferred for general photography.
a3 - Set to OFF.
a6 - Number of viewfinder focus points = 11 (optional)
f5
- Assign AEL/AFL button to AF lock only.

I choose the number of auto area focus points based on the requirements of my subject.

· 1 point for static or slow moving objects. (preferred)

· 9 points for predictable direction moving subjects without background clutter.

· 21 points for erratic moving subjects (like hummingbirds), that only fill a small portion of the scene.

With this AF set-up, keep your shutter button half pressed so the lens continuously adjusts focus until you actually fully depress the shutter. Focus and re-compose is accomplished by pushing and holding down the AFL button after subject focus is achieved.

good luck!

Jim
FWIW (not much, admittedly), I prefer to have the AEL/AFL button set to AF ON with AF mode set to AF-C. I find it difficult to keep the shutter button half depressed while I'm trying to follow a bird. With f5 set to AF ON, I just mash the AEL/AFL button and press the shutter release when I'm ready for a shot. For a bird in flight, that's usually on continuous high for 6-8 shots. The AEL/AFL can be held down during shooting and the camera will continue to focus if f5 is set to AF ON.

This technique is also commonly called back-button focus, or BBF. Using it, you no longer have to select between AF-C for moving subjects and AF-S for still subjects. You can simulate AF-S simply pressing the AEL/AFL button until you achieve focus, releasing it, and then shooting the picture.

A couple of additional notes:

With a larger sensor compared to your FZ150, which you have on the D7000, ISO 800 or 1600 is relatively clean, and you should be willing to use higher ISOs to drive up the shutter speed.

There is a significant difference in the focusing speed of different lenses in the Nikon world. I find, for example, that my 70-300 focuses more quickly and accurately than the 18-105 kit lens that came with the camera. The 55-300, by all accounts, is not the fastest focusing lens.

The picture below was shot with the 70-300 zoomed to 220mm. It is hardly a perfect picture. It has been cropped some, but it's fairly sharp and demonstrates what can be achieved in sharpness by a relatively elderly idiot. Note the highlight in the eye. I apologize for the destructive watermark, but, well, things have happened...



For BIF against a bright sky, some positive exposure compensation is often required to prevent the bird from coming out as a silhouette against the sky. Never fear, though. The RAW files from the D7000 offer an extraordinary amount of shadow recovery, so if you brighten your shadows when processing, your silhouette might still have plenty of detail to offer.

I usually shoot RAW and process with the version of Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) that comes with Photoslop Elements. If you have Elements 9.0 or later, it will recognize RAW files from the D7000. The ACR that comes with Lightroom is a bit better and offers more control.

I import using View NX2 because it gives me convenient options for naming the destination folder and deleting the images from the memory card, but I don't really like its editing interface.
I have taken three more photos of the same subjects with the same equipment but using the improvements that you good people here have given me to try.

I think there is a decent improvement, but there is more to learn with the experience of working with what you guys have tought me. Also a little Photoshop.

Thank you and Regards, Ken.

http://i61.tinypic.com/2napg84.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/j8gsc9.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/11llgs4.jpg
 
You haven't really said what it is that is disappointing you with the D7000. What problems are you having? If possible, please post some images that demonstrate the problems. You'll get much better feedback if people here know what the specific problems are.

Michael
I have taken three more photos of the same subjects with the same equipment but using the improvements that you good people here have given me to try.

I think there is a decent improvement, but there is more to learn with the experience of working with what you guys have tought me. Also a little Photoshop.

Thank you and Regards, Ken.

http://i61.tinypic.com/2napg84.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/j8gsc9.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/11llgs4.jpg
 
You haven't really said what it is that is disappointing you with the D7000. What problems are you having? If possible, please post some images that demonstrate the problems. You'll get much better feedback if people here know what the specific problems are.

Michael
I have taken three more photos of the same subjects with the same equipment but using the improvements that you good people here have given me to try.

I think there is a decent improvement, but there is more to learn with the experience of working with what you guys have tought me. Also a little Photoshop.

Thank you and Regards, Ken.

http://i61.tinypic.com/2napg84.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/j8gsc9.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/11llgs4.jpg
 
You haven't really said what it is that is disappointing you with the D7000. What problems are you having? If possible, please post some images that demonstrate the problems. You'll get much better feedback if people here know what the specific problems are.

Michael
Very good point Michael, thank you!

My main problem is sharpness at full telephoto. I have had some decent shots with the FZ150 and thought that when I upgraded to a much larger sensor and arguably a better camera, I would see at least some improvement in IQ, even given the learning curve involved. This isn't my first rodeo, but it is my first digital SLR!

I have been dissappointed by the 55-300 at 300mm because it does not appear as sharp as some of my photos taken with the FZ150. See attached samples, the Red Tail Hawk was shot with the FZ150, the other was taken with the D7000 and 55-300. Both have had a little cropping and sharpening.

Some of my old Nikkor F non-auto lenses have worked OK. but are very difficult to use with quick moving birds. I can not afford a really nice Nikon auto telephoto.

Regards, Ken.

http://i61.tinypic.com/30m4dg7.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/domj6a.jpg
Well Ken - that Little bird is not that bad at all with that lens, I would say. But it is not the sharpest knife in the drawer, as others have already said.

I found a compare to the Nikon 70-300 and the Tamron 70-300. As the Tamron is not tested on a 16MP camera, the compare is made on the D300.

http://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Compa...mm-F4-5.6-Di-VC-USD-Nikon___324_0_262_0_281_0

Go to "Measurements", "Sharpness" and "Fieldmap" - choose "300mm" and look at the (huge) difference - and I can assure you, that this difference is even "huger" on the D7000.

Sadly enough, the 55-300 doesn't seem to get any better stopped Down a bit.

But look at this:

http://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Compa...mm-F4-5.6-Di-VC-USD-Nikon___324_0_262_0_281_0

and look at 200mm - then you speak sharpness. The 70-200 f:4 is about the double Price as the 70-300 - and you'll have to get closer - looking at your Eagle - I would say that it is worth it.

Just a kick of input :-)

BirgerH.
I have taken three more photos of the same subjects with the same equipment but using the improvements that you good people here have given me to try.

I think there is a decent improvement, but there is more to learn with the experience of working with what you guys have tought me. Also a little Photoshop.

Thank you and Regards, Ken.

http://i61.tinypic.com/2napg84.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/j8gsc9.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/11llgs4.jpg
 
You haven't really said what it is that is disappointing you with the D7000. What problems are you having? If possible, please post some images that demonstrate the problems. You'll get much better feedback if people here know what the specific problems are.

Michael
Very good point Michael, thank you!

My main problem is sharpness at full telephoto. I have had some decent shots with the FZ150 and thought that when I upgraded to a much larger sensor and arguably a better camera, I would see at least some improvement in IQ, even given the learning curve involved. This isn't my first rodeo, but it is my first digital SLR!

I have been dissappointed by the 55-300 at 300mm because it does not appear as sharp as some of my photos taken with the FZ150. See attached samples, the Red Tail Hawk was shot with the FZ150, the other was taken with the D7000 and 55-300. Both have had a little cropping and sharpening.

Some of my old Nikkor F non-auto lenses have worked OK. but are very difficult to use with quick moving birds. I can not afford a really nice Nikon auto telephoto.

Regards, Ken.

http://i61.tinypic.com/30m4dg7.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/domj6a.jpg
Unfortunately, that's about as good as I would expect that bird to be on that lens at 300mm with that much crop. You've essentially gone from 16mp down to 0.5mp, removing 97% of the pixels.

I also see that your shutter is 1/200 which is on the slow side for that lens. However, in this case I don't think it contributed significantly to the poor IQ.

The other image is sharper, but only because the subject is 6-8X larger and the in-camera sharpening appears to be doing more work.

Here's your same image with only a hint of extra sharpening applied via Aperture, I'm sure someone with some expertise and a slightly better starting point could do better. This does show that with that lens/body combo you can likely achieve some stellar images with some minor post-capture processing.

Sharpening added: Intensity: 0.4 Radius: 2.36
Sharpening added: Intensity: 0.4 Radius: 2.36

You will significantly increase your IQ output by 1. Getting closer to your subject (I know, not always easy for birds) 2. Cropping less (need bigger subject to work with) 3. Some minor post-capture processing to increase sharpness. 4. Faster shutter speeds (stick with 1/zoom length or faster for handheld, but even much faster for BIFs).

Nice captures though, I like the first one. I just don't have the patience for birds but have attempted it a few times.

Good luck!
I have taken three more photos of the same subjects with the same equipment but using the improvements that you good people here have given me to try.

I think there is a decent improvement, but there is more to learn with the experience of working with what you guys have tought me. Also a little Photoshop.

Thank you and Regards, Ken.

http://i61.tinypic.com/2napg84.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/j8gsc9.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/11llgs4.jpg
 
For what it's worth, Evan was killing it with that 55-300mm on his D5100 -- which shares the same sensor as your D7000 -- prior to him acquiring a D5300. He seems to have gotten an extraordinary copy of that lens that bucks the "soft at 300mm" label that it's hung with.
Well, that label bears some truth but is incomplete -- soft at 300mm at which apertures? In competent hands, that lens is no "trash" and can perform well in certain conditions.

Same can be said about "kit" lenses. I happen to have received extraordinary copies of kit lens with my camera bodies. ;)
I have taken three more photos of the same subjects with the same equipment but using the improvements that you good people here have given me to try.

I think there is a decent improvement, but there is more to learn with the experience of working with what you guys have tought me. Also a little Photoshop.

Thank you and Regards, Ken.

http://i61.tinypic.com/2napg84.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/j8gsc9.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/11llgs4.jpg
 

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