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mcgurgle

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I do a lot of wildlife/BIF photography and currently use the 7d MkII with the canon 400 F5.6L (sometimes with 1.4 TC). I know a lot of folks rave about IS lenses and I've been think about getting one (possibly the new 100-400 IS). I can see the advantage for relatively static subjects, but I'm wondering if it would actually gain me anything for fast moving subjects where I need to quickly snatch the shots.

How long does it take for the IS to 'lock-on' and does the IS system actually prevent the camera from taking the shot until it has engaged, even if AF has already acquired focus ? Or is IS acquisition as fast as the AF acquisition ?

Apologies if this sounds a bit a bit naïve, but I'm just not sure what the limitations are.

Thanks in advance.

Gary
 
mcgurgle said:
I do a lot of wildlife/BIF photography and currently use the 7d MkII with the canon 400 F5.6L (sometimes with 1.4 TC). I know a lot of folks rave about IS lenses and I've been think about getting one (possibly the new 100-400 IS). I can see the advantage for relatively static subjects, but I'm wondering if it would actually gain me anything for fast moving subjects where I need to quickly snatch the shots.

How long does it take for the IS to 'lock-on' and does the IS system actually prevent the camera from taking the shot until it has engaged, even if AF has already acquired focus ? Or is IS acquisition as fast as the AF acquisition ?

Apologies if this sounds a bit a bit naïve, but I'm just not sure what the limitations are.

Thanks in advance.

Gary
Click to expand...
I can only speak for myself, but my (7D, 50D previous gear), 6D & 7D MkII(current), the IS is certainly quick enough. I'm in the habit of 1/2 pressing the shutter whilst I am swinging the lens round to acquire the target, and fully press when I have done so.The momentary time for it to stabilise is less than how long it takes me to track & focus my BIF or whatever. And the lens I am talking about is the original 100-400L IS lens, and from all reports the newer one is better in every aspect, so I'm sure it will be a wnner for you.
 
IS will help you get sharper images by removing camera shake that happens during the image acquisition. It will not help you achieve sharper images is your subject moves (i.e. motion blur).

If you primarily take shots outdoors, consider what shutter speed you typically use. I've got a 70-200 f2.8 IS, but I leave IS off almost all the time if I'm shooting sports as I try to have the shutter speed at 1/400s or faster. The camera shake due to me holding the camera is not noticeable.

If I were to shoot an image with a shutter speed in the range of 1/50 or slower, I would turn it on. During that long of a time my hands may move just enough to cause the camera shake to be noticeable. Some recent reviews available show hand held images taken at 1/6 sec shutter speed with and without IS, and the difference is remarkable.

I've heard there are downsides to having it enabled as well, related to the AF time. I can't speak to this with any personal knowledge, but I'm sure others will or you can do a google search, etc.
 
In my experience with IS lenses (70-200 F2.8L IS I and II, 24-105 F4L IS, 35 F2 IS, 100 F2.8L macro IS, EF-M 18-55 IS, EF-M 11-22 IS, EF-S 10-18 IS), the IS takes anything up to half a second to spool up, and the camera will take a picture before the IS is fully engaged, if you want it to. I have read that taking a picture while the IS is still spooling up can have bad effects (on the picture), but I've never experienced it.
 
mcgurgle said:
I do a lot of wildlife/BIF photography and currently use the 7d MkII with the canon 400 F5.6L (sometimes with 1.4 TC). I know a lot of folks rave about IS lenses and I've been think about getting one (possibly the new 100-400 IS). I can see the advantage for relatively static subjects, but I'm wondering if it would actually gain me anything for fast moving subjects where I need to quickly snatch the shots.
Click to expand...
You'll get a more stable viewfinder image - and in mode 2 only your movements perpendicular to your tracking direction will be compensated for. Normally you would be half pressing the shutter before taking the shot anyway so the IS will have enough time to fully engage...
mcgurgle said:
How long does it take for the IS to 'lock-on' and does the IS system actually prevent the camera from taking the shot until it has engaged, even if AF has already acquired focus ?
Click to expand...
No, the IS will not prevent taking the shot.
mcgurgle said:
Or is IS acquisition as fast as the AF acquisition ?
Click to expand...
IS starts up as soon as you half press the shutter but it will only work against your hand shake - not against subject movement, so it's not an "acquisition" you could compare with the AF...

--

regards
Karl Günter Wünsch
 
Thanks all for taking the time to respond. For BIF, I usually set Tv mode on/1200 sec with auto ISO (and AF Servo of course). From the various comments, I'm still not sure if IS will gain me much in this situation.
 
Karl Gnter Wnsch said:
mcgurgle said:
I do a lot of wildlife/BIF photography and currently use the 7d MkII with the canon 400 F5.6L (sometimes with 1.4 TC). I know a lot of folks rave about IS lenses and I've been think about getting one (possibly the new 100-400 IS). I can see the advantage for relatively static subjects, but I'm wondering if it would actually gain me anything for fast moving subjects where I need to quickly snatch the shots.
Click to expand...
You'll get a more stable viewfinder image - and in mode 2 only your movements perpendicular to your tracking direction will be compensated for. Normally you would be half pressing the shutter before taking the shot anyway so the IS will have enough time to fully engage...
Karl Gnter Wnsch said:
How long does it take for the IS to 'lock-on' and does the IS system actually prevent the camera from taking the shot until it has engaged, even if AF has already acquired focus ?
Click to expand...
No, the IS will not prevent taking the shot.
Karl Gnter Wnsch said:
Or is IS acquisition as fast as the AF acquisition ?
Click to expand...
IS starts up as soon as you half press the shutter but it will only work against your hand shake - not against subject movement, so it's not an "acquisition" you could compare with the AF...

--

regards
Karl Günter Wünsch
Click to expand...
The question is, is there a downside to leaving IS on in a sports, fast SS situation? I always figured that I still want to eliminate hand shake even when shooting at a fast SS, so I leave it on. Others have said to turn it off. I only turn of when on a tripod.
 
skanter said:
The question is, is there a downside to leaving IS on in a sports, fast SS situation?
Click to expand...
I think that's strongly down to personal preference. Depending on focal length I think there is a lot of value in having the viewfinder stabilized while you track your subject - but with the UniqBall UBH35 on my tripod now I leave the IS off even when tracking (that head when locked down to 2-way action is a marvel for tracking moving subjects)...
 
Alastair Norcross said:
In my experience with IS lenses (70-200 F2.8L IS I and II, 24-105 F4L IS, 35 F2 IS, 100 F2.8L macro IS, EF-M 18-55 IS, EF-M 11-22 IS, EF-S 10-18 IS), the IS takes anything up to half a second to spool up, and the camera will take a picture before the IS is fully engaged, if you want it to. I have read that taking a picture while the IS is still spooling up can have bad effects (on the picture), but I've never experienced it.
Click to expand...
Somewhere I read that with the current IS technology (Canon & Nikon), that started with the 70-200L f/4-IS, by pressing the shutter/AF-ON, the IS needs 1/2 to engage, but to get the full effect it need a full second (aka: 1 banana).

My personal experience also matches these numbers. On my 70-200L f/4-IS, I can get the full 4 f/stop when I let it work between 1 and 1.5 sec. I have not noticed any negative effect if I press fully on the shutter within less than the 1/2 sec, basically the IS doesn't interfere.

Also, I can leave the IS on when I'm on a tripod. The IS recognizes that and disengage.
 
Karl Gnter Wnsch said:
skanter said:
The question is, is there a downside to leaving IS on in a sports, fast SS situation?
Click to expand...
I think that's strongly down to personal preference. Depending on focal length I think there is a lot of value in having the viewfinder stabilized while you track your subject - but with the UniqBall UBH35 on my tripod now I leave the IS off even when tracking (that head when locked down to 2-way action is a marvel for tracking moving subjects)...
Click to expand...
 
elfroggio said:
Alastair Norcross said:
In my experience with IS lenses (70-200 F2.8L IS I and II, 24-105 F4L IS, 35 F2 IS, 100 F2.8L macro IS, EF-M 18-55 IS, EF-M 11-22 IS, EF-S 10-18 IS), the IS takes anything up to half a second to spool up, and the camera will take a picture before the IS is fully engaged, if you want it to. I have read that taking a picture while the IS is still spooling up can have bad effects (on the picture), but I've never experienced it.
Click to expand...
Somewhere I read that with the current IS technology (Canon & Nikon), that started with the 70-200L f/4-IS, by pressing the shutter/AF-ON, the IS needs 1/2 to engage, but to get the full effect it need a full second (aka: 1 banana).

My personal experience also matches these numbers. On my 70-200L f/4-IS, I can get the full 4 f/stop when I let it work between 1 and 1.5 sec. I have not noticed any negative effect if I press fully on the shutter within less than the 1/2 sec, basically the IS doesn't interfere.

Also, I can leave the IS on when I'm on a tripod. The IS recognizes that and disengage.
Click to expand...
 
mcgurgle said:
Thanks all for taking the time to respond. For BIF, I usually set Tv mode on/1200 sec with auto ISO (and AF Servo of course). From the various comments, I'm still not sure if IS will gain me much in this situation.
Click to expand...
Your view through through the viewfinder would be steadier and in lower light, you could drop the shutter speed some to keep the ISO lower, especially on still birds.
 
skanter said:
elfroggio said:
Alastair Norcross said:
In my experience with IS lenses (70-200 F2.8L IS I and II, 24-105 F4L IS, 35 F2 IS, 100 F2.8L macro IS, EF-M 18-55 IS, EF-M 11-22 IS, EF-S 10-18 IS), the IS takes anything up to half a second to spool up, and the camera will take a picture before the IS is fully engaged, if you want it to. I have read that taking a picture while the IS is still spooling up can have bad effects (on the picture), but I've never experienced it.
Click to expand...
Somewhere I read that with the current IS technology (Canon & Nikon), that started with the 70-200L f/4-IS, by pressing the shutter/AF-ON, the IS needs 1/2 to engage, but to get the full effect it need a full second (aka: 1 banana).

My personal experience also matches these numbers. On my 70-200L f/4-IS, I can get the full 4 f/stop when I let it work between 1 and 1.5 sec. I have not noticed any negative effect if I press fully on the shutter within less than the 1/2 sec, basically the IS doesn't interfere.

Also, I can leave the IS on when I'm on a tripod. The IS recognizes that and disengage.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
Alastair Norcross said:
skanter said:
elfroggio said:
Alastair Norcross said:
In my experience with IS lenses (70-200 F2.8L IS I and II, 24-105 F4L IS, 35 F2 IS, 100 F2.8L macro IS, EF-M 18-55 IS, EF-M 11-22 IS, EF-S 10-18 IS), the IS takes anything up to half a second to spool up, and the camera will take a picture before the IS is fully engaged, if you want it to. I have read that taking a picture while the IS is still spooling up can have bad effects (on the picture), but I've never experienced it.
Click to expand...
Somewhere I read that with the current IS technology (Canon & Nikon), that started with the 70-200L f/4-IS, by pressing the shutter/AF-ON, the IS needs 1/2 to engage, but to get the full effect it need a full second (aka: 1 banana).

My personal experience also matches these numbers. On my 70-200L f/4-IS, I can get the full 4 f/stop when I let it work between 1 and 1.5 sec. I have not noticed any negative effect if I press fully on the shutter within less than the 1/2 sec, basically the IS doesn't interfere.

Also, I can leave the IS on when I'm on a tripod. The IS recognizes that and disengage.

--
Thanks
http://www.sritch.com
The Dogs of Vancouver, BC
Click to expand...
In your opinion, are there any situations where IS should be turned off?

--
Sam K., NYC
“A camera is a tool for learning how to see without a camera.”
-Dorothea Lange
Click to expand...
If you don't have panning mode IS, and you're panning, you should turn off IS. For example, the 70-200 F2.8L IS II has two IS modes. Mode 2 is designed for panning. The 24-105 has only one IS mode, so I turn it off, if I'm panning.

--
As the length of a thread approaches 150, the probability that someone will make the obvious "it's not the camera, it's the photographer" remark approaches 1.
Alastair
http://anorcross.smugmug.com
Equipment in profile
Click to expand...
I have two IS modes on some of my lenses, but I have never seen a disadvantage leaving IS on when on a tripod. Has anyone actually tested and seen ill effects?

--
Sam K., NYC
“A camera is a tool for learning how to see without a camera.”
-Dorothea Lange
 
Last edited:
I have noticed no disadvantage leaving IS on with my 100-400 f/4.5-5.6L IS II when photographing flying birds. For perched birds in poor light the IS is just amazingly good.

FF
 
One thing to think about is that this lens (New 100-400) has the Mode 3 option which only enables when the shutter is released. I have yet to shoot with a lens that has it, but the point is for sports shooters. Normally with High Frame rate is recommended to turn off IS, but I think that advice is prior to Mode 3

Loading…

www.usa.canon.com
 
If you have been using the 400/5.6 very successfully for both BIF and more distant static, I'm hesitant to suggest that you will have better keepers. Your lens technique can be a bit more sloppy with an IS as it compensates for some of the shake you may introduce. I would think there would be a distinct advantage for IS under low light conditions when handheld, although your mileage will vary depending upon your own ability.
 
skanter said:
In your opinion, are there any situations where IS should be turned off?
Click to expand...
Whenever you can get shutter speeds fast enough to eliminate camera shake. Then you're just wasting battery.

So IS is pretty much useless for sports.
 
Last edited:
riknash said:
If you have been using the 400/5.6 very successfully for both BIF and more distant static, I'm hesitant to suggest that you will have better keepers. Your lens technique can be a bit more sloppy with an IS as it compensates for some of the shake you may introduce. I would think there would be a distinct advantage for IS under low light conditions when handheld, although your mileage will vary depending upon your own ability.
Click to expand...
This is my point. Despite high SS, why not keep IS on, eliminate additional hand shake when handheld, especially if there is no down side?
 
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