I’ve sold all my mirrorless gear, and gone back to Canon

Mirrorless is overrated. On the fly control is almost nil and there's no cost savings as accessories are just or more expensive. If mirrorless was the "in" thing then dSLR would've disappeared in droves like dinosaurs. I have the 70D and it's a winner. I have an EOS M and that's my limit for mirrorless.
 
Mirrorless is overrated. On the fly control is almost nil and there's no cost savings as accessories are just or more expensive. If mirrorless was the "in" thing then dSLR would've disappeared in droves like dinosaurs. I have the 70D and it's a winner. I have an EOS M and that's my limit for mirrorless.

agree: 6% hit rate when racking a zoom lens is almost nil
 
sometimes snake oil, sometimes not. you can see in the links below that on the same generation 18 mpxl canon sensor ( ie, 7d -> 60d) that the 300 f2.8 L IS, one of Canon's best resolving lenses, and of course one pays a price for this, the 300 f2.8 L IS smokes the 300 f4 L IS, even at f2.8 it is sharper than the f4 lens.
The corner is sharper then the center in the TDP f/4L test. The IQ difference between the two is much greater then in the 1Ds3 tests. And those f/4L test shots are softer then I've ever seen from my copy.

Either A) there is a shooting error, or B) the lens used in the crop test was misaligned, making all the cited TDP links invalid.

Ironically though this just goes to prove my point, because I can still screen shot the f/4L center and make it as sharp in PS as the f/2.8L II center @ f/4.

And if you fed sharpened images to whatever formula DxO is using, you would get a higher "MPix equivalency" rating. Heck, I bet I could trick their system into reporting more MPix then the sensor has. Imagine that, a plugin that gives you MORE MEGAPIXELS without upgrading your camera! If I was slime I would build it, "verify" it against DxO's own software, and make money off unsuspecting fools.
The other point is that on the 18 mpxl 700 d the 300 f2.8 rating goes up to 17 MPix -
Once again, you cannot abuse language the way DxO is abusing language. Sharpness != resolved detail != sensor pixel count, and there's no general translation or "equivalence" between them. I don't even know how to continue this discussion if we cannot agree on technical terms. It's like you want to discuss car engine power in terms of clear coat thickness. It doesn't even make sense.

BTW: look up the Imaging Resource lpmm results for the 700D and 7D (original). They're pretty much the same, as one would expect.
Line pairs per millimeter is one way to measure resolved detail, which of course varies with variations in equipment and also in scene and technique. But, all other factors being equal, there is generally little to no difference (<5%) in resolved detail between FF and crop when the sensors have the same MP, and sometimes it is the crop sensor which resolves slightly more.
TDP shows line pairs
And when you look at them you confuse both sharpness (which does vary with format given the same lens) and size (he doesn't scale AND camera position can change in his tests) for resolution.

Imatest measures them with no such flaws. Go compare any Nikon 24 MP crop and FF bodies if you like. Their resolution...not their sharpness...will be nearly identical.
 
I don't even know how to continue this discussion if we cannot agree on technical terms.
For lens quality I would never ever refer to the flawed results from any camera dependent test - unfortunately the true lens quality measures (optical MTF charts) no longer are created by anyone but the manufacturer (and some manufacturers only publish the calculated MTF - but even that is much better to gauge lens quality than the rubbish floating around on the internet)...
 
I use Canon extensively, both FF and APS - but I also use Fuji, Leica and used Sony in the past.

Today, it's very easy to find an APS-C DSLR/CSC that beats Canon's 18MP APS (and even the new 20MP). You name it; Sony (a5100, a6000), Fuji, Pentax K-3, and Nikon.

Even last night I just tested my X-T1 vs 6D, shooting 3-stops under at iso200 (same focal length, settings) and pulled the RAWs in C1 Pro 8 at +4 stops; X-T1 has much better shadow detail and noise in this scenario against 6D (plenty of red dots and far less data in the black area). The 6D wins when the ISO is pushed to 3200 and up. I can't imagine if it were D750 and not X-T1...

Why did I do the test? I just got back from the himalayas with both 6D and X-T1, and in many images I was surprised to see FUji's raw actually has much more data than 6D's in the shadow/black areas. Like it or not, it's a fact and I just confirmed it this morning. I plan to go back there in March and it's now a possibility I will leave my 6Ds at home.

What makes me keep my Canon is the glass, Canon has plenty of good lenses. Let's see whether or not Canon will release cameras with really new sensors (not 7D2 'new')...
 
sometimes snake oil, sometimes not. you can see in the links below that on the same generation 18 mpxl canon sensor ( ie, 7d -> 60d) that the 300 f2.8 L IS, one of Canon's best resolving lenses, and of course one pays a price for this, the 300 f2.8 L IS smokes the 300 f4 L IS, even at f2.8 it is sharper than the f4 lens.
The corner is sharper then the center in the TDP f/4L test. The IQ difference between the two is much greater then in the 1Ds3 tests. And those f/4L test shots are softer then I've ever seen from my copy.
maybe your copy is better
Either A) there is a shooting error, or B) the lens used in the crop test was misaligned, making all the cited TDP links invalid.
every data point with TDP is not valid, many are, I just see them as starting points to ask questions and look at other sites
Ironically though this just goes to prove my point, because I can still screen shot the f/4L center and make it as sharp in PS as the f/2.8L II center @ f/4.
I hate sharpening if it can be avoided. Sharpening has consequences that often I don't like
And if you fed sharpened images to whatever formula DxO is using, you would get a higher "MPix equivalency" rating. Heck, I bet I could trick their system into reporting more MPix then the sensor has. Imagine that, a plugin that gives you MORE MEGAPIXELS without upgrading your camera! If I was slime I would build it, "verify" it against DxO's own software, and make money off unsuspecting fools.
you're funny, but yeah, the unsuspecting don't also look for over-sharpened images and the un-natural damage done
The other point is that on the 18 mpxl 700 d the 300 f2.8 rating goes up to 17 MPix -
Once again, you cannot abuse language the way DxO is abusing language. Sharpness != resolved detail != sensor pixel count, and there's no general translation or "equivalence" between them. I don't even know how to continue this discussion if we cannot agree on technical terms. It's like you want to discuss car engine power in terms of clear coat thickness. It doesn't even make sense.
try to sharpen mushy line pairs - you get even greater mush
BTW: look up the Imaging Resource lpmm results for the 700D and 7D (original). They're pretty much the same, as one would expect.
I'll take a look
Line pairs per millimeter is one way to measure resolved detail, which of course varies with variations in equipment and also in scene and technique. But, all other factors being equal, there is generally little to no difference (<5%) in resolved detail between FF and crop when the sensors have the same MP, and sometimes it is the crop sensor which resolves slightly more.
TDP shows line pairs
And when you look at them you confuse both sharpness (which does vary with format given the same lens) and size (he doesn't scale AND camera position can change in his tests) for resolution.
I don't trust across formats for any site

I only look at TDP in same format as a starting point to ask questions
Imatest measures them with no such flaws. Go compare any Nikon 24 MP crop and FF bodies if you like. Their resolution...not their sharpness...will be nearly identical.
I'm on board that most cannot tell difference between 18 mpxl and 36 mpxl on prints below 16 x 24 -- as you and fuzzy have proclaimed over the years - when at iso 100 and sharpening. But I shoot mostly much higher than iso 100 and I hate what sharpening does to damage high iso images. Therefore, it may just be me, but I'm using TDP and dxo as starting points for potential hints on what issues I might have with lenses and combos

talk to the guy who couldn't get sharp feathers on the 7d + 100-400 I combo. Maybe he had bad copies. I said to myself - make a note - dxo says MPix 6, TDP says not so hot, I've seen a few that have had decent results, but maybe -- for me - I don't want to go there. Maybe I'll go with the 7d2 + 100-400 II - at 11-12 MPix - jury is still out for me - we'll see ;)
 
I don't even know how to continue this discussion if we cannot agree on technical terms.
For lens quality I would never ever refer to the flawed results from any camera dependent test - unfortunately the true lens quality measures (optical MTF charts) no longer are created by anyone but the manufacturer (and some manufacturers only publish the calculated MTF - but even that is much better to gauge lens quality than the rubbish floating around on the internet)...
for me, never ever means you never ever even look or use as a heads up ;)

Even the famous photozone uses 350d and 50d for mtf's - which I agree with you - I don't trust the lens Mtf's on those cameras ;) Also TDP uses the 60d, which I owned and the 60d was softer ooc. You can see this if you look at Bryan's 200 f2 results at TDP for different cameras - since he uses that great lens for all of his testing of all the cameras

for me, looking within the same format, TDP, Photozone, dxo are only potential heads up -- if I'm going to have trouble with sharp images out of the camera at high iso - where I don't want to use any sharpening if it can be avoided

that is why I skipped the 7d original + 100-400 I - dxo low MPix of 6 was/is a heads up - not definitive - but leaves a question in my mind
--
regards
Karl Günter Wünsch
 
  • suggest you study system resolution (body + glass)
  • eg, your 300 f4 IS only gets an 8 MPix on SL1
The SL1 outputs 18 MP, period, as MP is a count of the recording sensor elements on the sensor. There is no such thing as "equivalent MP" and I consider DxO claiming/reporting otherwise to be the modern equivalent of snake oil. Same with Foveon.
I think the argument DxO is trying to make is that if an 18mp camera gets an 8mp rating with a certain lens, that an image taken with a theoretically perfect 8mp camera and theoretically perfect lens would show as much detail and resolution.

But whatever, DxO is generally to be ignored anyway, if your goal is to take photographs of actual scenes or people and then make prints to be displayed on a wall or in an album, even very large ones.

As for Foveon though, there is something there, it's not snake oil. I have a Sigma DP2M, it's pretty astounding when used in its (small) sweet spot. I would estimate a 16mp Foveon image could be scaled up to 24mp, and would provide about the same detail and sharpness as a 24mp Bayer camera.

i-rwX8L56.jpg


A vertical pano of 2 shots:

i-W38XWQd.jpg
 
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I use Canon extensively, both FF and APS - but I also use Fuji, Leica and used Sony in the past.

Today, it's very easy to find an APS-C DSLR/CSC that beats Canon's 18MP APS (and even the new 20MP). You name it; Sony (a5100, a6000), Fuji, Pentax K-3, and Nikon.

Even last night I just tested my X-T1 vs 6D, shooting 3-stops under at iso200 (same focal length, settings) and pulled the RAWs in C1 Pro 8 at +4 stops; X-T1 has much better shadow detail and noise in this scenario against 6D (plenty of red dots and far less data in the black area). The 6D wins when the ISO is pushed to 3200 and up. I can't imagine if it were D750 and not X-T1...

Why did I do the test? I just got back from the himalayas with both 6D and X-T1, and in many images I was surprised to see FUji's raw actually has much more data than 6D's in the shadow/black areas. Like it or not, it's a fact and I just confirmed it this morning. I plan to go back there in March and it's now a possibility I will leave my 6Ds at home.

What makes me keep my Canon is the glass, Canon has plenty of good lenses. Let's see whether or not Canon will release cameras with really new sensors (not 7D2 'new')...
I couldn't agree more, but expect to get hammered here for sharing that opinion. A few vocal Canon stalwarts here seem to feel that this falls into the category of "trolling". Canon's glass is one of the best things they have going... that's pretty hard to dispute. More controversial (at least here) is the notion that Canon might actually be falling behind in their APS-C (at least) sensor design. I'll leave it at that since I've yet to see any of these sorts of Canon vs.[fill in vendor name here] threads end well.
 
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Ironically though this just goes to prove my point, because I can still screen shot the f/4L center and make it as sharp in PS as the f/2.8L II center @ f/4.
I hate sharpening if it can be avoided. Sharpening has consequences that often I don't like
Then you're missing out. Sharpening can certainly be over done, but that doesn't mean it has to be over done. You can buy the very best sensor and lens small format can offer and end up with an image that has a lower IQ to human observers then a properly processed image from someone with mid-level equipment.

In some respects hardware still dominates. A plugin cannot restore detail never resolved by the sensor+lens in the first place. NR can help but sensor size still dominates at high ISO.

In others, software and post processing can represent a larger gain in IQ then hardware offers, sometimes even from the entry to the pro level.
try to sharpen mushy line pairs - you get even greater mush
Have you tried it? ;-) One of the early articles on digital camera MTF50 resolution using Imatest points out that you can get very different results simply by sharpening prior to the test. (If I can find it I'll post the link.)
I'm on board that most cannot tell difference between 18 mpxl and 36 mpxl on prints below 16 x 24 -- as you and fuzzy have proclaimed over the years - when at iso 100 and sharpening. But I shoot mostly much higher than iso 100 and I hate what sharpening does to damage high iso images.
Past a certain ISO...depending on both scene and taste...sharpening is no longer useful due to the way it impacts noise. You and I are in complete agreement there. IMHO those ISOs are not conducive to really large prints any way. Crop can definitely get mushy at higher ISOs but it's not the format size so much as the aggressive NR. FF also gets mushy as ISOs go up compared to itself at ISO 100. It just does so later then crop.
Therefore, it may just be me, but I'm using TDP and dxo as starting points for potential hints on what issues I might have with lenses and combos
The very nature of TDP's test will exaggerate differences, which may be perfect as a pointer, though it can also introduce differences that aren't really there (errors; shooting distances that are different from average for the lens). Don't get me wrong, I do like TDP a lot and will cite them. But you have to be on guard even there.

DxO's tests...even where they point you in the right direction, their gross misuse of terminology leaves a very false impression, especially between formats. And if you ignore the Mpix label entirely and treat it simply as a synthetic score, it still often doesn't make any sense.
talk to the guy who couldn't get sharp feathers on the 7d + 100-400 I combo.
I didn't like the mark I even when I had the opportunity to shoot a friend's on FF. That's how I ended up with the 300 f/4L IS instead. But I'm glad you brought that up.

DxO says 6 Mpix for the 100-400 and 7 Mpix for the 300 f/4L IS, both on the 7D. I have zero problem getting sharp anything out of the 300 on my 7D. And the time I did get to play with both on two different bodies (7D and 5D2) the 7D+300 combo still pulled way ahead of the 5D2+100-400 combo at 300mm, before any processing on my part. Yet according to DxO, both are apparently worthless on the 7D.

If I had listened to DxO (well...if DxO had been publishing Mpix back then) I would have taken out a small loan for a 300 f/2.8 I guess.
 
I think the argument DxO is trying to make is that if an 18mp camera gets an 8mp rating with a certain lens, that an image taken with a theoretically perfect 8mp camera and theoretically perfect lens would show as much detail and resolution.
Oh, I get that. But it's still fundamentally wrong because their test is measuring sharpness, not absolute resolution.
But whatever, DxO is generally to be ignored anyway,
We are in total agreement :-)
As for Foveon though, there is something there, it's not snake oil. I have a Sigma DP2M, it's pretty astounding when used in its (small) sweet spot. I would estimate a 16mp Foveon image could be scaled up to 24mp, and would provide about the same detail and sharpness as a 24mp Bayer camera.
I don't disagree. Stacked RGB sensors yield higher IQ for a given pixel output. Foveon at low ISO can produce some incredible IQ. The snake oil part is just how they report an "equivalent" MP 3x as high. The IQ gain isn't that large.
 
As for Foveon though, there is something there, it's not snake oil. I have a Sigma DP2M, it's pretty astounding when used in its (small) sweet spot. I would estimate a 16mp Foveon image could be scaled up to 24mp, and would provide about the same detail and sharpness as a 24mp Bayer camera.
I don't disagree. Stacked RGB sensors yield higher IQ for a given pixel output. Foveon at low ISO can produce some incredible IQ. The snake oil part is just how they report an "equivalent" MP 3x as high. The IQ gain isn't that large.
I think they've backed away from that initial claim. I think the general claim they make now is 2x, which is more reasonable, but still a stretch, IMO. Like I said I'd put it at 1.5x. In any case, a 24mp or 36mp FF Foveon camera would really be something special. I hope they make one eventually.
 
IMO moving from entry DSLR like canon rebel to mirrorless like nex6/a6000 will be good upgrade

but the people move from semi pro cameras like 7d/70d/d7100 will be disappointed especially those professionals who always use telephotos for sports and wild life will not find better lenses than DSLR lenses and the mirrorless camera still didn't reach the professional level of DSLR
I sometimes shoot events. I have 7d2. The SL1 is my 2nd camera. It works with everything, including the 2 odin triggers that radio signal 3 odin receivers. The 10-18 stm, 55-250 stm, and 35 f2 IS are awesome on my SL1. You are right, the long lenses like my 70-200 f2.8 L are awesome on my 7d2. The sony 70-200 f2.8 costs $3000 and you'd need an adapter for the A to E mount that doesn't work so hot on a6000.

The cost of my SL1 + 10-18 stm + 55-250 stm + 35 f2 IS was: $369 + $299 + $181 + $550 =

$1399.

Show me where the a6000 can get as good of 16-400 fov coverage for less dollars and be a good backup to your dslr?

The sony isn't a "good upgrade"

The sony is a walk around play toy, for perhaps a third camera and a few primes
 
So far so good ;)
 
Welcome back. Though fid you consider the new 24mm f/2.8 IS instead of the old 28mm and old 28mm lenses you bought?
 
Ironically though this just goes to prove my point, because I can still screen shot the f/4L center and make it as sharp in PS as the f/2.8L II center @ f/4.
I hate sharpening if it can be avoided. Sharpening has consequences that often I don't like
Then you're missing out.
I do it at iso 100 and 200, then only sparingly going upward in iso
Sharpening can certainly be over done, but that doesn't mean it has to be over done. You can buy the very best sensor and lens small format can offer and end up with an image that has a lower IQ to human observers then a properly processed image from someone with mid-level equipment.
or you can buy sharp glass and a body with weak aa in the first place...

my 100 L on my 5dc required zero sharpening - if you sharpened, the images were oversharpened
In some respects hardware still dominates. A plugin cannot restore detail never resolved by the sensor+lens in the first place. NR can help but sensor size still dominates at high ISO.
it's a multi-variable function - sharpness AND NR, and they are not mutually exclusive
In others, software and post processing can represent a larger gain in IQ then hardware offers, sometimes even from the entry to the pro level.
I don't think of IQ being post processing
try to sharpen mushy line pairs - you get even greater mush
Have you tried it? ;-) One of the early articles on digital camera MTF50 resolution using Imatest points out that you can get very different results simply by sharpening prior to the test. (If I can find it I'll post the link.)
Here is an image from a review site where the reviewer claimed they could noise redux the 50d image and get better resolution than the 40d. Mush...I kept my 40d, the 40d colors were better also

iso_3200_noise_resolution.jpg

I'm on board that most cannot tell difference between 18 mpxl and 36 mpxl on prints below 16 x 24 -- as you and fuzzy have proclaimed over the years - when at iso 100 and sharpening. But I shoot mostly much higher than iso 100 and I hate what sharpening does to damage high iso images.
Past a certain ISO...depending on both scene and taste...sharpening is no longer useful due to the way it impacts noise. You and I are in complete agreement there.
correct
IMHO those ISOs are not conducive to really large prints any way. Crop can definitely get mushy at higher ISOs but it's not the format size so much as the aggressive NR. FF also gets mushy as ISOs go up compared to itself at ISO 100. It just does so later then crop.
I just shot bball - ss 1/400 f2.8 with my 70-200 L at iso 12500 and the 7d2 - cleaned up nicely in DPP - no sharpening - 8x10's are not a problem
Therefore, it may just be me, but I'm using TDP and dxo as starting points for potential hints on what issues I might have with lenses and combos
The very nature of TDP's test will exaggerate differences, which may be perfect as a pointer, though it can also introduce differences that aren't really there (errors; shooting distances that are different from average for the lens). Don't get me wrong, I do like TDP a lot and will cite them. But you have to be on guard even there.
correct - Bryan messed over my 70-200 f2.8 L at the ISO site also
DxO's tests...even where they point you in the right direction, their gross misuse of terminology leaves a very false impression, especially between formats.
comparing between formats is wrong to do - agreed
And if you ignore the Mpix label entirely and treat it simply as a synthetic score, it still often doesn't make any sense.
agree - grain of salt - but can be an ooc sharpness indicator

and if other sites show the same - then a flag

I ask the question - is the lens camera combo appear to be sharp enough ooc so I will not ruin the image at hi iso - since I don't want to sharpen at hi iso
talk to the guy who couldn't get sharp feathers on the 7d + 100-400 I combo.
I didn't like the mark I even when I had the opportunity to shoot a friend's on FF. That's how I ended up with the 300 f/4L IS instead. But I'm glad you brought that up.
the 100-400 II with 1.4 III ext is on my wish list - 7d2 handles f8 with ext
DxO says 6 Mpix for the 100-400 and 7 Mpix for the 300 f/4L IS, both on the 7D. I have zero problem getting sharp anything out of the 300 on my 7D.
glad it works for you
And the time I did get to play with both on two different bodies (7D and 5D2) the 7D+300 combo still pulled way ahead of the 5D2+100-400 combo at 300mm, before any processing on my part. Yet according to DxO, both are apparently worthless on the 7D.
well, 6 MPix or 7MPix can be processed at low iso - to appear really good - I have great images from my 6 mpixl 10d - but my point goes back to ooc sharpness at high iso - my 100 L, my 35 f2 IS and my 70-200 L all meet my ooc sharpness expectations not to have to sharpen at high iso.
If I had listened to DxO (well...if DxO had been publishing Mpix back then) I would have taken out a small loan for a 300 f/2.8 I guess.
yeah - I wish to hit the lotto also

my point is this:

in order to come close to the FF IQ, the crop cameras must have sharp glass.

The 7d2 is only 1 stop away from the 5d3 in high iso and only 1/2 stop away from the 5d2 at high iso

but if you put weak glass on the 7d2, then you're going to have to sharpen more at hi iso and the noise differential between the FF and the 7d2 gets wider

I like to look at it this way

My 7d2 + 35 F2 IS will score 14 or 15 MPix at dxo (based on the way the 70d scored with this lens)

This is the FF equivalent of 56 f3.2 with 4 stop IS with a MPix of 14-15 and only 1/2 stop in high iso from the 5d2

The 5D2 with the great 24-70 f2.8 II only scores a MPix of 15 (call it ooc sharpness if you want vs resolution) AND DOESN'T have IS and is QUITE HEAVY and costs at least $1K more

BOTH are sharp enough not to require sharpening at high ISO

And I know it's a prime vs a zoom, but I'll just move my feet.

This is a crop setup that IMO closes the gap on FF advantage.

just my 2 cents on how to study and think about and potentially use and deploy the data sets from multiple sites
 
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Welcome back. Though fid you consider the new 24mm f/2.8 IS instead of the old 28mm and old 28mm lenses you bought?
24mm (to me), is a strange inbetween focal length on APS-C, so no. And I prefer the 28mm f/1.8 for its stop and a half more light. IS can’t freeze motion.
 
Welcome back. Though fid you consider the new 24mm f/2.8 IS instead of the old 28mm and old 28mm lenses you bought?
24mm (to me), is a strange inbetween focal length on APS-C, so no. And I prefer the 28mm f/1.8 for its stop and a half more light. IS can’t freeze motion.
From what I've heard this lens is VERY soft wide open,practically unusable, until f 2.2, from there it's reasonably sharp until 2.8, where it's very good. At f 4 it's tack sharp. So, if you are after the f 1.8, I wouldn't buy this lens.
 
Welcome back. Though fid you consider the new 24mm f/2.8 IS instead of the old 28mm and old 28mm lenses you bought?
24mm (to me), is a strange inbetween focal length on APS-C, so no. And I prefer the 28mm f/1.8 for its stop and a half more light. IS can’t freeze motion.
From what I've heard this lens is VERY soft wide open,practically unusable, until f 2.2, from there it's reasonably sharp until 2.8, where it's very good. At f 4 it's tack sharp. So, if you are after the f 1.8, I wouldn't buy this lens.
I find it’s better to spend more time learning when, where, and how to use my lenses, rather than reading the internet. Anyone who thinks the Canon 28/1.8 is “unusable”, is using it wrong.

It’s not a landscape lense, due to corner softness, field curvature, and CA. What it is: a fantastic people, documentary, street lens. Subjects closer in show none of the problems internet reviews complain about. If you need critical sharpness across the frame at f/1.8 (astrophotography for example) spend $1600 on an L prime.
 
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Welcome back. Though fid you consider the new 24mm f/2.8 IS instead of the old 28mm and old 28mm lenses you bought?
24mm (to me), is a strange inbetween focal length on APS-C, so no. And I prefer the 28mm f/1.8 for its stop and a half more light. IS can’t freeze motion.
From what I've heard this lens is VERY soft wide open,practically unusable, until f 2.2, from there it's reasonably sharp until 2.8, where it's very good. At f 4 it's tack sharp. So, if you are after the f 1.8, I wouldn't buy this lens.
Yes that's why I asked. Canon's old very fast low priced wide primes are fair wide open.
 

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