Would you buy a camera lens combination without IS?

Would you buy a camera lens combination without IS?


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Never.

Recently on holidays and I was surprised at how many shake free images I could get, even under some terrible conditions, E-P5 plus 12-40/2.8 helps with that.

One night I decided to push things a little and tried 1/2 second at 40mm (standing, hand held) and the only two shots I took were perfect. Never bothered to go further down as I was happy at that point.

In theory a 40mm lens on M4/3 needs 1/80 sec for reasonable reliability of freedom from shake and with the old 2 axis Oly IBIS or Mega OIS I could take that to 1/8 second , slower and I had problems. So the 5 axis IBIS allowed me to go from 1/8 sec to 1/2 sec reliably and I'm happy.

One dark night I'll check more shutter speeds at more focal lengths to see what I can get.

In your case with no IBIS or OIS the 60mm lens would need at least 1/120 sec and 300mm would need at least 1/600 sec in theory (some do worse, some do better, I just happen to fit the rule). Add a bean bag or tripod and things get way better, so be prepared to carry more support stuff to make up for no stabilisation.

Regards..... Guy
 
You can do it if you want to. IMO you will clearly be committing to using a tripod on occasions, and not on others. Your photos will actually be better for doing this than using IS, anyway.
 
Just think how expensive it would be to get those 3 extra stops by optical means!
 
Hi Trevor,

I think it depends a lot on the intended use. People DID do a lot of zoom photography long before IS was invented, and continued to do so when IS had been invented but brought little benefit i.e. max 1-2 stops.

Remember that IS corrects USER movement. So if you will do a lot of candid photography, or can never be bothered to carry a tripod, the IS is very useful. On the other hand if your intended use for a 300mm is to photography wildlife i.e. probably use a tripod and stay immobile for a long time, then IS is much less useful.

The following is a statement from another thread, acknowledgements to Jean-Pierre Martel

"The zoom could be a 14-140mm or a 14-150mm lens. Just take into account that if your camera body doesn't have IBIS, the lens that you'll buy must have IS. On the other hand, if the camera body has IBIS, you can pick any superzoom (they'll be all compatible).

I have a G5 and a G6 and top of my shopping list at the moment is the Oly60mm. If I can afford it I may be very interested in the Oly300 F4. Both would seem like a major no-go in some people's view. Would many others join me in the Yes camp below.

VOTE
 
You're asking for trouble with long lenses if you don't have some sort of stabilization - UNLESS you're planning on carrying a tripod with you.

I wanted to save some weight and bought the Canon 70-200 f/2.8 without stabilization. As a result I had to use way faster shutter speeds than I wanted to and often the f/2.8 just wouldn't hack it in lower light. Lens went back. I wound up buying the 300mm f/4L IS, which does have stabilization. Not the same range as the 70-200 but almost perfect for my goal of shooting birds at the feeders on my deck through my windows.
Isabel, I don't understand why you would not just use a tripod - almost the perfect situation to do so, I would have thought.

I use a tripod a LOT around the house and garden, less so when traveling of course.

But around home and within a few hundred meters, I'd use a tripod over IS of any kind almost all the time.
 
IS is a bonus and is very handy, but it's no at all mandatory to take good pictures.
 
I think I would be in trouble if I left a tripod set up around the house for any length of time.

Mark
 
I purchased a 15mm f1.7 PanaLeica to use on my GM1 knowing it wasn't stabilsed and I manage to avoid image shake 90% of the time.
 
And IS was invented for a reason, just like AF, for instance. Etc.
 
Because in my view you cannot putit lie that as you are not as penalised for instance with an ultrawide lens compared to a long(ish) zoom.

Also: are you shooting still or moving subjects? if a subjects moves fast, you need a fast shutterspeed which negates the use of OIS/IBIs to some degree.

Another point yet again is: stills or video. The OMD EM5 has poor video but that IBIS in video is great! EM6 with 4K and IBIS (which seems challenging) would be quite something.

A final example: shoot a bird sitting still at 200-600 mm FL with IBIS/OIS on or of...You can shoot at low ISO with IBIS on and a 1/100s or so or you can bump up the ISO by 3-4 stops and end up with a faster shutterspeed but clearly worse IQ...

So long story short: short FL are fine without IBIS/OIS, Longer FL can benefit a lot. All this depends on the subject and the available light though..
 
. The OMD EM5 has poor video but that IBIS in video is great! EM6 with 4K and IBIS (which seems challenging) would be quite something.
A final example: shoot a bird sitting still at 200-600 mm FL with IBIS/OIS on or of...You can shoot at low ISO with IBIS on and a 1/100s or so or you can bump up the ISO by 3-4 stops and end up with a faster shutterspeed but clearly worse IQ...

So long story short: short FL are fine without IBIS/OIS, Longer FL can benefit a lot. All this depends on the subject and the available light though..
Why does everybody say the E-M5 has poor video. I dare say it has great video quality, you just can't use specific refresh rates and some codecs for pro use is missing, but the image quality is fine.

It's much better to say the camera is not very useful for professional video due to missing options, but for occasional use it's fine.
 
In the time of the Nikon D300 i barely noticed the difference. However, the e-m10 is much better (for my way of shooting off-course). It seems it can handle a much greater amplitude of motion.

So i like it very much
 
Having been here for long enough I have used cameras and lenses without IBIS, IS, OIS or what ever for most of my life. IBIS etc does help with handheld shots, especially with longer focal lenghts, but there are ways to get sharp shots without too - and usually the result is better than with IS.

1. Use fast enough shutter speed. Rise ISO if needed.

2. Use tripod, monopod, shoulder support or something else. Even with shoulder support you can use 2-4 times longer shutter speeds than just handheld, and with a tripod up to hours.

IS is a wonderful thing, and hepls a lot, but it can in certain situations also add some blur to photograps, mostly in corners. One thing more moving in the light path. These 5-axis versions are very good, and even with the older (EP3) versions you can use amazingly long exposures handheld. Add those two points to this, and you can take acceptable shots with wide angle lenses on cityscapes for 1- 1/2 seconds. But with a proper tripod it would be better.


Jouko
'The best camera in the world is the one you have with you when you need it'
 
I've just bought Samyang 2.0/12 for my GH2.
 
The following is a statement from another thread, acknowledgements to Jean-Pierre Martel

"The zoom could be a 14-140mm or a 14-150mm lens. Just take into account that if your camera body doesn't have IBIS, the lens that you'll buy must have IS. On the other hand, if the camera body has IBIS, you can pick any superzoom (they'll be all compatible).

I have a G5 and a G6 and top of my shopping list at the moment is the Oly60mm. If I can afford it I may be very interested in the Oly300 F4. Both would seem like a major no-go in some people's view. Would many others join me in the Yes camp below.

VOTE
My wife and I use Oly 60mm lenses on G6 bodies. Works great.

You need precise control over (manual) focus when you are taking macro/closeup shots. IBIS or OIS is something to avoid in that use.

In general, the longer I have gear with IS (years now), the less I use it.
 
The following is a statement from another thread, acknowledgements to Jean-Pierre Martel

"The zoom could be a 14-140mm or a 14-150mm lens. Just take into account that if your camera body doesn't have IBIS, the lens that you'll buy must have IS. On the other hand, if the camera body has IBIS, you can pick any superzoom (they'll be all compatible).

I have a G5 and a G6 and top of my shopping list at the moment is the Oly60mm. If I can afford it I may be very interested in the Oly300 F4. Both would seem like a major no-go in some people's view. Would many others join me in the Yes camp below.
No problem at all with the 60mm lens IMO. I shoot that focal length all the time on MFT without stabilization.

Regarding the 300mm lens, I'm not saying that it's not possible to use it, but you'd need to be in bright sunlight and you can't use it for video. For that reason, I wouldn't buy a 300mm lens as pricy as the Oly without stabilization. I might go for something cheap, maybe a few hundred $ tops, even though the quality likely won't be anywhere near the Oly.
 
The following is a statement from another thread, acknowledgements to Jean-Pierre Martel

"The zoom could be a 14-140mm or a 14-150mm lens. Just take into account that if your camera body doesn't have IBIS, the lens that you'll buy must have IS. On the other hand, if the camera body has IBIS, you can pick any superzoom (they'll be all compatible).

I have a G5 and a G6 and top of my shopping list at the moment is the Oly60mm. If I can afford it I may be very interested in the Oly300 F4. Both would seem like a major no-go in some people's view. Would many others join me in the Yes camp below.

VOTE
My wife and I use Oly 60mm lenses on G6 bodies. Works great.

You need precise control over (manual) focus when you are taking macro/closeup shots. IBIS or OIS is something to avoid in that use.

In general, the longer I have gear with IS (years now), the less I use it.
 
The nos were making major gains early in the day but they are falling back a bit now
 
As a G6 user. I'm about to buy the 60mm and was using that as an excuse to buy a GX7, now you've blown away that excuse:-)

--
Though Olympus do claim that their 5 axis stabilisation is useful with macro (unlike most lesser varieties). That would indicate an e-m5, e-p5 or e-m1 ;-)
 

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