How "bad" is the DR on 6D in practical conditions?

As far as I know, the 6D's dynamic range is around 12.1, while almost all FF competitors have bigger DR numbers, more than 13 or even more than 14. So, how much does count a 2 EV difference in real life? I know, you will say that if I mess the exposure, then I can recover more easily in post those highlights or lift better the shadows... But what about when the exposure is spot on, and the image is perfectly exposed. Does the 2 EV difference would matter? If yes, then how? And how often? I'm thinking to leave my A7 for a 6D, but I'm afraid of those smaller DR numbers...
my 5dmk1 only has a dr of 11.1 and 1 have no problems with a lack of dynamic range ..
That is because you think shadows should remain shadows! Latest craze apparently is to pull shadows up at least 4 stops and dislike blacks and darks vehemently. ;)



99a630b071374d02a2e5c5579076ad8a.jpg
 
As far as I know, the 6D's dynamic range is around 12.1, while almost all FF competitors have bigger DR numbers, more than 13 or even more than 14. So, how much does count a 2 EV difference in real life? I know, you will say that if I mess the exposure, then I can recover more easily in post those highlights or lift better the shadows... But what about when the exposure is spot on, and the image is perfectly exposed. Does the 2 EV difference would matter? If yes, then how? And how often? I'm thinking to leave my A7 for a 6D, but I'm afraid of those smaller DR numbers...
Hmmmm....

Remember Kodachrome?
Kinda
The film used by countless professionals? It had a dynamic range of about 12 stops.
No, it did not. Kodachrome is pretty contrasty. With d2.2 it had s DR of about 7 stops, more like 6 stops in practice.
Looked great.
Yes, it did. Not bland and contrastless, like 12 stops of DR would suggest.
I shoot weddings. Been at it for almost two decades. Grooms wear black. Brides wear white. Kind of tough when they are next to each other!
Why?
The raw files from the 6D pulls out LOTS of details from both. If 2EV makes a real world difference, then you've got some very special needs indeed.
 
As far as I know, the 6D's dynamic range is around 12.1, while almost all FF competitors have bigger DR numbers, more than 13 or even more than 14. So, how much does count a 2 EV difference in real life? I know, you will say that if I mess the exposure, then I can recover more easily in post those highlights or lift better the shadows... But what about when the exposure is spot on, and the image is perfectly exposed. Does the 2 EV difference would matter? If yes, then how? And how often? I'm thinking to leave my A7 for a 6D, but I'm afraid of those smaller DR numbers...
Hmmmm....

Remember Kodachrome? The film used by countless professionals? It had a dynamic range of about 12 stops. Looked great.
12 stops for kodachrome? Hell no! Try 5 to 6 stops for slide film.
On the interwebs kodachrome gets said to have 12 stops DR, that is where that misconception comes from.

In reality, more like 4-6 stops for slide film, 8-10 stops for colour negative film, and 6-14 stops for bw film depending on what type of film one chooses.
I shoot weddings. Been at it for almost two decades. Grooms wear black. Brides wear white. Kind of tough when they are next to each other! The raw files from the 6D pulls out LOTS of details from both. If 2EV makes a real world difference, then you've got some very special needs indeed.
 
As far as I know, the 6D's dynamic range is around 12.1, while almost all FF competitors have bigger DR numbers, more than 13 or even more than 14. So, how much does count a 2 EV difference in real life? I know, you will say that if I mess the exposure, then I can recover more easily in post those highlights or lift better the shadows... But what about when the exposure is spot on, and the image is perfectly exposed. Does the 2 EV difference would matter? If yes, then how? And how often? I'm thinking to leave my A7 for a 6D, but I'm afraid of those smaller DR numbers...
Hmmmm....

Remember Kodachrome?
Kinda
The film used by countless professionals? It had a dynamic range of about 12 stops.
No, it did not. Kodachrome is pretty contrasty. With d2.2 it had s DR of about 7 stops, more like 6 stops in practice.
I've seen it said that it's around 12 stops.

Silverfast makes software to scan all sorts of negatives and they have a Kodachrome preset. They have measured it at around 12 stops.
Looked great.
Yes, it did. Not bland and contrastless, like 12 stops of DR would suggest.
I shoot weddings. Been at it for almost two decades. Grooms wear black. Brides wear white. Kind of tough when they are next to each other!
Why?
The raw files from the 6D pulls out LOTS of details from both. If 2EV makes a real world difference, then you've got some very special needs indeed.
 
The D750 clearly has less shadow noise in that video example but I actually think I see more details with the 6D image!
I can see how this is possible. I didn't view the video. I can also see how there might be more than one speculative explanation for this. :)
 
As far as I know, the 6D's dynamic range is around 12.1, while almost all FF competitors have bigger DR numbers, more than 13 or even more than 14. So, how much does count a 2 EV difference in real life? I know, you will say that if I mess the exposure, then I can recover more easily in post those highlights or lift better the shadows... But what about when the exposure is spot on, and the image is perfectly exposed. Does the 2 EV difference would matter? If yes, then how? And how often? I'm thinking to leave my A7 for a 6D, but I'm afraid of those smaller DR numbers...
Hmmmm....

Remember Kodachrome?
Kinda
The film used by countless professionals? It had a dynamic range of about 12 stops.
No, it did not. Kodachrome is pretty contrasty. With d2.2 it had s DR of about 7 stops, more like 6 stops in practice.
I've seen it said that it's around 12 stops.

Silverfast makes software to scan all sorts of negatives and they have a Kodachrome preset. They have measured it at around 12 stops.
I know, I have seen that said too. Does not make it so, though. Kodachrome is very contrasty colour positive slide film.
Looked great.
Yes, it did. Not bland and contrastless, like 12 stops of DR would suggest.
I shoot weddings. Been at it for almost two decades. Grooms wear black. Brides wear white. Kind of tough when they are next to each other!
Why?
The raw files from the 6D pulls out LOTS of details from both. If 2EV makes a real world difference, then you've got some very special needs indeed.
 
As far as I know, the 6D's dynamic range is around 12.1, while almost all FF competitors have bigger DR numbers, more than 13 or even more than 14. So, how much does count a 2 EV difference in real life? I know, you will say that if I mess the exposure, then I can recover more easily in post those highlights or lift better the shadows... But what about when the exposure is spot on, and the image is perfectly exposed. Does the 2 EV difference would matter? If yes, then how? And how often? I'm thinking to leave my A7 for a 6D, but I'm afraid of those smaller DR numbers...
Hmmmm....

Remember Kodachrome?
Kinda
The film used by countless professionals? It had a dynamic range of about 12 stops.
No, it did not. Kodachrome is pretty contrasty. With d2.2 it had s DR of about 7 stops, more like 6 stops in practice.
I've seen it said that it's around 12 stops.

Silverfast makes software to scan all sorts of negatives and they have a Kodachrome preset. They have measured it at around 12 stops.
I know, I have seen that said too. Does not make it so, though. Kodachrome is very contrasty colour positive slide film.
Oh yes - I know. Used it for many years before switching to Velvia. :-)

This is what they say regarding scanning the positives to capture the full range of the transparency ...

"Scanning Kodachromes with attention to recording the complete Dynamic Range is a considerable challenge. This, because the Dynamic Range reaches up to 3.8D - which is a grayscale range of 6300 shades and equals a contrast range of 1:6300!"

I believe that equates to around 12 stops.

Of course, Contrast and Dynamic Range are not exactly the same thing. ;-)
 
As far as I know, the 6D's dynamic range is around 12.1, while almost all FF competitors have bigger DR numbers, more than 13 or even more than 14. So, how much does count a 2 EV difference in real life? I know, you will say that if I mess the exposure, then I can recover more easily in post those highlights or lift better the shadows... But what about when the exposure is spot on, and the image is perfectly exposed. Does the 2 EV difference would matter? If yes, then how? And how often? I'm thinking to leave my A7 for a 6D, but I'm afraid of those smaller DR numbers...
Hmmmm....

Remember Kodachrome?
Kinda
The film used by countless professionals? It had a dynamic range of about 12 stops.
No, it did not. Kodachrome is pretty contrasty. With d2.2 it had s DR of about 7 stops, more like 6 stops in practice.
I've seen it said that it's around 12 stops.

Silverfast makes software to scan all sorts of negatives and they have a Kodachrome preset. They have measured it at around 12 stops.
I know, I have seen that said too. Does not make it so, though. Kodachrome is very contrasty colour positive slide film.
Oh yes - I know. Used it for many years before switching to Velvia. :-)

This is what they say regarding scanning the positives to capture the full range of the transparency ...

"Scanning Kodachromes with attention to recording the complete Dynamic Range is a considerable challenge. This, because the Dynamic Range reaches up to 3.8D - which is a grayscale range of 6300 shades and equals a contrast range of 1:6300!"

I believe that equates to around 12 stops.

Of course, Contrast and Dynamic Range are not exactly the same thing. ;-)
I have the feeling the scanning people are a little confused. One can't judge the captured DR from scanning some slide. Fact is, Kodachrome is a high contrast old film, and does not have anywhere near the DR of 12 stops...

Yes, there is a direct link to how contrasty a film is, and how high the DR is. High DR by definition has a high white point and a low black point, and the tones inbetween by definition are not very contrasty. A film's "shoulder" can make DR look slightly higher than it is, too.
 
As far as I know, the 6D's dynamic range is around 12.1, while almost all FF competitors have bigger DR numbers, more than 13 or even more than 14. So, how much does count a 2 EV difference in real life? I know, you will say that if I mess the exposure, then I can recover more easily in post those highlights or lift better the shadows... But what about when the exposure is spot on, and the image is perfectly exposed. Does the 2 EV difference would matter? If yes, then how? And how often? I'm thinking to leave my A7 for a 6D, but I'm afraid of those smaller DR numbers...
Hmmmm....

Remember Kodachrome?
Kinda
The film used by countless professionals? It had a dynamic range of about 12 stops.
No, it did not. Kodachrome is pretty contrasty. With d2.2 it had s DR of about 7 stops, more like 6 stops in practice.
I've seen it said that it's around 12 stops.

Silverfast makes software to scan all sorts of negatives and they have a Kodachrome preset. They have measured it at around 12 stops.
I know, I have seen that said too. Does not make it so, though. Kodachrome is very contrasty colour positive slide film.
Oh yes - I know. Used it for many years before switching to Velvia. :-)

This is what they say regarding scanning the positives to capture the full range of the transparency ...

"Scanning Kodachromes with attention to recording the complete Dynamic Range is a considerable challenge. This, because the Dynamic Range reaches up to 3.8D - which is a grayscale range of 6300 shades and equals a contrast range of 1:6300!"

I believe that equates to around 12 stops.

Of course, Contrast and Dynamic Range are not exactly the same thing. ;-)
I have the feeling the scanning people are a little confused. One can't judge the captured DR from scanning some slide. Fact is, Kodachrome is a high contrast old film, and does not have anywhere near the DR of 12 stops...

Yes, there is a direct link to how contrasty a film is, and how high the DR is. High DR by definition has a high white point and a low black point, and the tones inbetween by definition are not very contrasty. A film's "shoulder" can make DR look slightly higher than it is, too.
Unless the DR of the scene being captured is known, it would be difficult to determine how much DR has been captured in the final result. And contrast is not necessarily a guide. But my feeling from using it for many years is that it would certainly have been more than 6 or 7 stops. But it's a long time ago. :-)

BTW - where did you get your figures from? ("With d2.2 it had s DR of about 7 stops, more like 6 stops in practice.") They are not in agreement with the figures I can find out there.
 
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As far as I know, the 6D's dynamic range is around 12.1, while almost all FF competitors have bigger DR numbers, more than 13 or even more than 14. So, how much does count a 2 EV difference in real life? I know, you will say that if I mess the exposure, then I can recover more easily in post those highlights or lift better the shadows... But what about when the exposure is spot on, and the image is perfectly exposed. Does the 2 EV difference would matter? If yes, then how? And how often? I'm thinking to leave my A7 for a 6D, but I'm afraid of those smaller DR numbers...
Hmmmm....

Remember Kodachrome?
Kinda
The film used by countless professionals? It had a dynamic range of about 12 stops.
No, it did not. Kodachrome is pretty contrasty. With d2.2 it had s DR of about 7 stops, more like 6 stops in practice.
I've seen it said that it's around 12 stops.

Silverfast makes software to scan all sorts of negatives and they have a Kodachrome preset. They have measured it at around 12 stops.
I know, I have seen that said too. Does not make it so, though. Kodachrome is very contrasty colour positive slide film.
Oh yes - I know. Used it for many years before switching to Velvia. :-)

This is what they say regarding scanning the positives to capture the full range of the transparency ...

"Scanning Kodachromes with attention to recording the complete Dynamic Range is a considerable challenge. This, because the Dynamic Range reaches up to 3.8D - which is a grayscale range of 6300 shades and equals a contrast range of 1:6300!"

I believe that equates to around 12 stops.

Of course, Contrast and Dynamic Range are not exactly the same thing. ;-)
I have the feeling the scanning people are a little confused. One can't judge the captured DR from scanning some slide. Fact is, Kodachrome is a high contrast old film, and does not have anywhere near the DR of 12 stops...

Yes, there is a direct link to how contrasty a film is, and how high the DR is. High DR by definition has a high white point and a low black point, and the tones inbetween by definition are not very contrasty. A film's "shoulder" can make DR look slightly higher than it is, too.
Unless the DR of the scene being captured is known, it would be difficult to determine how much DR has been captured in the final result. And contrast is not necessarily a guide.
Well, it actually is...
But my feeling from using it for many years is that it would certainly have been more than 6 or 7 stops. But it's a long time ago. :-)
It is a colour positive film, and those "always" had a low DR or 5 to 6 stops. That is what made them (slides) so popular, by the way, the contrast, the colours.
BTW - where did you get your figures from? ("With d2.2 it had s DR of about 7 stops, more like 6 stops in practice.") They are not in agreement with the figures I can find out there.

The log exposure in the characteristic curves chart.
 
As far as I know, the 6D's dynamic range is around 12.1, while almost all FF competitors have bigger DR numbers, more than 13 or even more than 14. So, how much does count a 2 EV difference in real life? I know, you will say that if I mess the exposure, then I can recover more easily in post those highlights or lift better the shadows... But what about when the exposure is spot on, and the image is perfectly exposed. Does the 2 EV difference would matter? If yes, then how? And how often? I'm thinking to leave my A7 for a 6D, but I'm afraid of those smaller DR numbers...
Hmmmm....

Remember Kodachrome?
Kinda
The film used by countless professionals? It had a dynamic range of about 12 stops.
No, it did not. Kodachrome is pretty contrasty. With d2.2 it had s DR of about 7 stops, more like 6 stops in practice.
I've seen it said that it's around 12 stops.

Silverfast makes software to scan all sorts of negatives and they have a Kodachrome preset. They have measured it at around 12 stops.
I know, I have seen that said too. Does not make it so, though. Kodachrome is very contrasty colour positive slide film.
Oh yes - I know. Used it for many years before switching to Velvia. :-)

This is what they say regarding scanning the positives to capture the full range of the transparency ...

"Scanning Kodachromes with attention to recording the complete Dynamic Range is a considerable challenge. This, because the Dynamic Range reaches up to 3.8D - which is a grayscale range of 6300 shades and equals a contrast range of 1:6300!"

I believe that equates to around 12 stops.

Of course, Contrast and Dynamic Range are not exactly the same thing. ;-)
I have the feeling the scanning people are a little confused. One can't judge the captured DR from scanning some slide. Fact is, Kodachrome is a high contrast old film, and does not have anywhere near the DR of 12 stops...

Yes, there is a direct link to how contrasty a film is, and how high the DR is. High DR by definition has a high white point and a low black point, and the tones inbetween by definition are not very contrasty. A film's "shoulder" can make DR look slightly higher than it is, too.
Unless the DR of the scene being captured is known, it would be difficult to determine how much DR has been captured in the final result. And contrast is not necessarily a guide.
Well, it actually is...
But my feeling from using it for many years is that it would certainly have been more than 6 or 7 stops. But it's a long time ago. :-)
It is a colour positive film, and those "always" had a low DR or 5 to 6 stops. That is what made them (slides) so popular, by the way, the contrast, the colours.
BTW - where did you get your figures from? ("With d2.2 it had s DR of about 7 stops, more like 6 stops in practice.") They are not in agreement with the figures I can find out there.
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/consumer/products/pdf/e88.pdf

The log exposure in the characteristic curves chart.
And, upon further searching, here is a useful little table too ...

e20321b6636e4101b764d9baca7182fb.jpg

It's a bit old now, but most of it is still relevant, of course.

It seems that Silverfast are right too - but they are concerned with scanning and that brings different considerations it seem.

I'm sure Velvia would be less than Kodachrome - and I loved that film. And this explains why I've never really struggled with the DR of my cameras over the last ten years. :-)
 
As far as I know, the 6D's dynamic range is around 12.1, while almost all FF competitors have bigger DR numbers, more than 13 or even more than 14. So, how much does count a 2 EV difference in real life? I know, you will say that if I mess the exposure, then I can recover more easily in post those highlights or lift better the shadows... But what about when the exposure is spot on, and the image is perfectly exposed. Does the 2 EV difference would matter? If yes, then how? And how often? I'm thinking to leave my A7 for a 6D, but I'm afraid of those smaller DR numbers...
Hmmmm....

Remember Kodachrome?
Kinda
The film used by countless professionals? It had a dynamic range of about 12 stops.
No, it did not. Kodachrome is pretty contrasty. With d2.2 it had s DR of about 7 stops, more like 6 stops in practice.
I've seen it said that it's around 12 stops.

Silverfast makes software to scan all sorts of negatives and they have a Kodachrome preset. They have measured it at around 12 stops.
I know, I have seen that said too. Does not make it so, though. Kodachrome is very contrasty colour positive slide film.
Oh yes - I know. Used it for many years before switching to Velvia. :-)

This is what they say regarding scanning the positives to capture the full range of the transparency ...

"Scanning Kodachromes with attention to recording the complete Dynamic Range is a considerable challenge. This, because the Dynamic Range reaches up to 3.8D - which is a grayscale range of 6300 shades and equals a contrast range of 1:6300!"

I believe that equates to around 12 stops.

Of course, Contrast and Dynamic Range are not exactly the same thing. ;-)
I have the feeling the scanning people are a little confused. One can't judge the captured DR from scanning some slide. Fact is, Kodachrome is a high contrast old film, and does not have anywhere near the DR of 12 stops...

Yes, there is a direct link to how contrasty a film is, and how high the DR is. High DR by definition has a high white point and a low black point, and the tones inbetween by definition are not very contrasty. A film's "shoulder" can make DR look slightly higher than it is, too.
Unless the DR of the scene being captured is known, it would be difficult to determine how much DR has been captured in the final result. And contrast is not necessarily a guide.
Well, it actually is...
But my feeling from using it for many years is that it would certainly have been more than 6 or 7 stops. But it's a long time ago. :-)
It is a colour positive film, and those "always" had a low DR or 5 to 6 stops. That is what made them (slides) so popular, by the way, the contrast, the colours.
BTW - where did you get your figures from? ("With d2.2 it had s DR of about 7 stops, more like 6 stops in practice.") They are not in agreement with the figures I can find out there.
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/consumer/products/pdf/e88.pdf

The log exposure in the characteristic curves chart.
And, upon further searching, here is a useful little table too ...

e20321b6636e4101b764d9baca7182fb.jpg

It's a bit old now, but most of it is still relevant, of course.

It seems that Silverfast are right too - but they are concerned with scanning and that brings different considerations it seem.

I'm sure Velvia would be less than Kodachrome - and I loved that film. And this explains why I've never really struggled with the DR of my cameras over the last ten years. :-)
Well, then I guess Kodachrome results always have been wrong, and Kodak is wrong about their film ;) (see above Kodak PDF).
 
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As far as I know, the 6D's dynamic range is around 12.1, while almost all FF competitors have bigger DR numbers, more than 13 or even more than 14. So, how much does count a 2 EV difference in real life? I know, you will say that if I mess the exposure, then I can recover more easily in post those highlights or lift better the shadows... But what about when the exposure is spot on, and the image is perfectly exposed. Does the 2 EV difference would matter? If yes, then how? And how often? I'm thinking to leave my A7 for a 6D, but I'm afraid of those smaller DR numbers...
From a Nikon user's point of view:

http://photographylife.com/reviews/canon-6d/3

"Yes, in my experience Canon RAW files tend to yield poorer results compared to Nikon when recovering shadows – (...) However, the difference is not as drastic as DxOMark leads us to believe…"

However, on the flip side, the same author also made an interesting test:

http://photographylife.com/nikon-vs-canon-dynamic-range
very interesting, thanks for the link ;-)

cheerz.
 
As far as I know, the 6D's dynamic range is around 12.1, while almost all FF competitors have bigger DR numbers, more than 13 or even more than 14. So, how much does count a 2 EV difference in real life? I know, you will say that if I mess the exposure, then I can recover more easily in post those highlights or lift better the shadows... But what about when the exposure is spot on, and the image is perfectly exposed. Does the 2 EV difference would matter? If yes, then how? And how often? I'm thinking to leave my A7 for a 6D, but I'm afraid of those smaller DR numbers...
Hmmmm....

Remember Kodachrome?
Kinda
The film used by countless professionals? It had a dynamic range of about 12 stops.
No, it did not. Kodachrome is pretty contrasty. With d2.2 it had s DR of about 7 stops, more like 6 stops in practice.
I've seen it said that it's around 12 stops.

Silverfast makes software to scan all sorts of negatives and they have a Kodachrome preset. They have measured it at around 12 stops.
I know, I have seen that said too. Does not make it so, though. Kodachrome is very contrasty colour positive slide film.
Oh yes - I know. Used it for many years before switching to Velvia. :-)

This is what they say regarding scanning the positives to capture the full range of the transparency ...

"Scanning Kodachromes with attention to recording the complete Dynamic Range is a considerable challenge. This, because the Dynamic Range reaches up to 3.8D - which is a grayscale range of 6300 shades and equals a contrast range of 1:6300!"

I believe that equates to around 12 stops.

Of course, Contrast and Dynamic Range are not exactly the same thing. ;-)
I have the feeling the scanning people are a little confused. One can't judge the captured DR from scanning some slide. Fact is, Kodachrome is a high contrast old film, and does not have anywhere near the DR of 12 stops...

Yes, there is a direct link to how contrasty a film is, and how high the DR is. High DR by definition has a high white point and a low black point, and the tones inbetween by definition are not very contrasty. A film's "shoulder" can make DR look slightly higher than it is, too.
Unless the DR of the scene being captured is known, it would be difficult to determine how much DR has been captured in the final result. And contrast is not necessarily a guide.
Well, it actually is...
But my feeling from using it for many years is that it would certainly have been more than 6 or 7 stops. But it's a long time ago. :-)
It is a colour positive film, and those "always" had a low DR or 5 to 6 stops. That is what made them (slides) so popular, by the way, the contrast, the colours.
BTW - where did you get your figures from? ("With d2.2 it had s DR of about 7 stops, more like 6 stops in practice.") They are not in agreement with the figures I can find out there.
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/consumer/products/pdf/e88.pdf

The log exposure in the characteristic curves chart.
And, upon further searching, here is a useful little table too ...

e20321b6636e4101b764d9baca7182fb.jpg

It's a bit old now, but most of it is still relevant, of course.

It seems that Silverfast are right too - but they are concerned with scanning and that brings different considerations it seem.

I'm sure Velvia would be less than Kodachrome - and I loved that film. And this explains why I've never really struggled with the DR of my cameras over the last ten years. :-)
Well, then I guess Kodachrome results always have been wrong, and Kodak is wrong about their film ;) (see above Kodak PDF).
Really?

You can't be seriously implying that Kodak know better than my memory of something from twenty years ago! I won't stand for it! ;-)

After all, Kodak almost went out of business but I'm still going strong! Hehe. :-)

(Shame, though, that it took 7% of this thread to coax the information from you - would've been a lot better if you'd just posted this to start with BC)
 
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I have a tip for you guys: in a thread that branches off left and right, with over 100 posts, 100 identical titles do nothing to inform who is discussing what, or unveil new info. Consider using the subject to describe new content for example. I.e. "DR table of different films" etc.
 
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I have a tip for you guys: in a thread that branches off left and right, with over 100 posts, 100 identical titles do nothing to inform who is discussing what, or unveil new info. Consider using the subject to describe new content for example. I.e. "DR table of different films" etc.
And now we have two more useless posts in this thread! ;-)
 
I have a tip for you guys: in a thread that branches off left and right, with over 100 posts, 100 identical titles do nothing to inform who is discussing what, or unveil new info. Consider using the subject to describe new content for example. I.e. "DR table of different films" etc.
And now we have two more useless posts in this thread! ;-)
How about this?
 
As far as I know, the 6D's dynamic range is around 12.1, while almost all FF competitors have bigger DR numbers, more than 13 or even more than 14. So, how much does count a 2 EV difference in real life? I know, you will say that if I mess the exposure, then I can recover more easily in post those highlights or lift better the shadows... But what about when the exposure is spot on, and the image is perfectly exposed. Does the 2 EV difference would matter? If yes, then how? And how often? I'm thinking to leave my A7 for a 6D, but I'm afraid of those smaller DR numbers...
Hmmmm....

Remember Kodachrome?
Kinda
The film used by countless professionals? It had a dynamic range of about 12 stops.
No, it did not. Kodachrome is pretty contrasty. With d2.2 it had s DR of about 7 stops, more like 6 stops in practice.
I've seen it said that it's around 12 stops.

Silverfast makes software to scan all sorts of negatives and they have a Kodachrome preset. They have measured it at around 12 stops.
I know, I have seen that said too. Does not make it so, though. Kodachrome is very contrasty colour positive slide film.
Oh yes - I know. Used it for many years before switching to Velvia. :-)

This is what they say regarding scanning the positives to capture the full range of the transparency ...

"Scanning Kodachromes with attention to recording the complete Dynamic Range is a considerable challenge. This, because the Dynamic Range reaches up to 3.8D - which is a grayscale range of 6300 shades and equals a contrast range of 1:6300!"

I believe that equates to around 12 stops.

Of course, Contrast and Dynamic Range are not exactly the same thing. ;-)
I have the feeling the scanning people are a little confused. One can't judge the captured DR from scanning some slide. Fact is, Kodachrome is a high contrast old film, and does not have anywhere near the DR of 12 stops...

Yes, there is a direct link to how contrasty a film is, and how high the DR is. High DR by definition has a high white point and a low black point, and the tones inbetween by definition are not very contrasty. A film's "shoulder" can make DR look slightly higher than it is, too.
Unless the DR of the scene being captured is known, it would be difficult to determine how much DR has been captured in the final result. And contrast is not necessarily a guide.
Well, it actually is...
But my feeling from using it for many years is that it would certainly have been more than 6 or 7 stops. But it's a long time ago. :-)
It is a colour positive film, and those "always" had a low DR or 5 to 6 stops. That is what made them (slides) so popular, by the way, the contrast, the colours.
BTW - where did you get your figures from? ("With d2.2 it had s DR of about 7 stops, more like 6 stops in practice.") They are not in agreement with the figures I can find out there.
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/consumer/products/pdf/e88.pdf

The log exposure in the characteristic curves chart.
And, upon further searching, here is a useful little table too ...

e20321b6636e4101b764d9baca7182fb.jpg

It's a bit old now, but most of it is still relevant, of course.

It seems that Silverfast are right too - but they are concerned with scanning and that brings different considerations it seem.

I'm sure Velvia would be less than Kodachrome - and I loved that film. And this explains why I've never really struggled with the DR of my cameras over the last ten years. :-)
That table sums it up very well. Here is a link to a step wedge test showing a good 18 stops with Tmax 400. You can however get far more than 10.5 stops with Tri-X using dilute devloper solution and stand processing....closer to 16 stops as Bruce Barnbaum tested in his book.

 
As far as I know, the 6D's dynamic range is around 12.1, while almost all FF competitors have bigger DR numbers, more than 13 or even more than 14. So, how much does count a 2 EV difference in real life? I know, you will say that if I mess the exposure, then I can recover more easily in post those highlights or lift better the shadows... But what about when the exposure is spot on, and the image is perfectly exposed. Does the 2 EV difference would matter? If yes, then how? And how often? I'm thinking to leave my A7 for a 6D, but I'm afraid of those smaller DR numbers...
my 5dmk1 only has a dr of 11.1 and 1 have no problems with a lack of dynamic range ..
That is because you think shadows should remain shadows! Latest craze apparently is to pull shadows up at least 4 stops and dislike blacks and darks vehemently. ;)
you are correct ...i never thought about it like that but yes i like to have shadows ..nice photo, MX5/Miata/Eunos?
 

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