Pro Low Light Mode

Thanks for the help PR- now it works :)

About the new Sony 1/3" sensor.....why cant Sony make great small sensors like this for superzoom cameras? I'm sure Orion would love it!
Because Orion doesn't a market make. How many other photographers do you think might also be interested in tiny resolution cameras?

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Also, what do you think about HDR using M size DR 400 plus exposure bracketing (-1,0,+1)....would that give 4 stops extra DR (2 stops from the DR 400 and 2 stops from the exposure bracketing) even at ISO 100?
I don't think that Fuji's EXR cameras are the right tools for the job. Are you really interested in HDR photography or do you just want to push the HS50 to its limits? I'm not particularly interested in HDR photography but if I was, I have cameras that aren't nearly as bracketing and resolution limited as the HS50. If you're interested in HDR this table of exposure bracketing by camera models would be useful for selecting a more appropriate camera. It showed that the Olympus E-PM2 covers a very wide bracketing range, 3, 5 or 7 bracketed frames, 3 (5 frames) EV step increments, and 12 for the maximum EV bracketed range. When I did a search for the E-PM2 I discovered that it has apparently been discontinued but Rakuten has refurbished E-PM2s for $266. With a 16mp sensor vs the HS50's much smaller 6mp, what's not to like, unless you're just interested in exploring the HS50's capabilities?

http://www.hdr-photography.com/aeb.html

http://www.rakuten.com/prod/olympus...t&adid=29963&gclid=CNmD9pWxvcECFXEQ7Aod5i4AcA

http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/olympus_epm2_review/
 
Thanks for the help PR- now it works :)

About the new Sony 1/3" sensor.....why cant Sony make great small sensors like this for superzoom cameras? I'm sure Orion would love it!
Because Orion doesn't a market make. How many other photographers do you think might also be interested in tiny resolution cameras?
Orion currently has no camera companies so Making Markets is not really an option BUT Orion would Welcome ANY sensor that has Extremely Clean Capture ability . . . I'm currently drawn to the Sony 12-Mp FULL-FRAME Sensor but it's hardly a Candidate for a Small Footprint Super-Zoom Lens System.

The New Kodak Small Sensors interesting enough are producing some Pretty Decent Super-Zoom Output . . . :-) Good Shooting & Cheers from Orion :-D
.
Also, what do you think about HDR using M size DR 400 plus exposure bracketing (-1,0,+1)....would that give 4 stops extra DR (2 stops from the DR 400 and 2 stops from the exposure bracketing) even at ISO 100?
I don't think that Fuji's EXR cameras are the right tools for the job. Are you really interested in HDR photography or do you just want to push the HS50 to its limits? I'm not particularly interested in HDR photography but if I was, I have cameras that aren't nearly as bracketing and resolution limited as the HS50. If you're interested in HDR this table of exposure bracketing by camera models would be useful for selecting a more appropriate camera. It showed that the Olympus E-PM2 covers a very wide bracketing range, 3, 5 or 7 bracketed frames, 3 (5 frames) EV step increments, and 12 for the maximum EV bracketed range. When I did a search for the E-PM2 I discovered that it has apparently been discontinued but Rakuten has refurbished E-PM2s for $266. With a 16mp sensor vs the HS50's much smaller 6mp, what's not to like, unless you're just interested in exploring the HS50's capabilities?

http://www.hdr-photography.com/aeb.html

http://www.rakuten.com/prod/olympus...t&adid=29963&gclid=CNmD9pWxvcECFXEQ7Aod5i4AcA

http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/olympus_epm2_review/
 
Thanks for the help PR- now it works :)

About the new Sony 1/3" sensor.....why cant Sony make great small sensors like this for superzoom cameras? I'm sure Orion would love it!
Because Orion doesn't a market make. How many other photographers do you think might also be interested in tiny resolution cameras?
Orion currently has no camera companies so Making Markets is not really an option BUT Orion would Welcome ANY sensor that has Extremely Clean Capture ability . . . I'm currently drawn to the Sony 12-Mp FULL-FRAME Sensor but it's hardly a Candidate for a Small Footprint Super-Zoom Lens System.
That's a strange camera. Very good in low light, but I checked it using DPR's Eze-Duz-It studio comparitor and strangely enough, it didn't seem to significantly outperform cameras like the D4s and D810 at very high ISOs (up to ISO 25600) but at the extreme high ISOs, like ISO 204800 and 409600 where it finally did a lot better, it had pretty horrible chroma noise. Its advantage there was only that the D4s was clearly worse, not that the A7s was producing even halfway decent images. Maybe those ISO 409600 photos would be usable if they're downsized to 2mp? :)

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The New Kodak Small Sensors interesting enough are producing some Pretty Decent Super-Zoom Output . . . :-) Good Shooting & Cheers from Orion :-D
My Kodak small sensor superzoom does pretty well until it gets near the long end of its focal length range, then if falls apart. Maybe the newer models (the ones not produced by the Kodak that bit the dust) are better, but if you get one, see how well it does beyond 1000mm while you can still return it.
 
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Oh, that's a terrific find, and the camera you linked me to, actually seems to be more compact than the HS20/50 and I can get my 4/3 lenses to work with it.

I really never used the HS50 bracketing feature before so I was asking about it.....and I found out something I didn't like....it's actually ISO bracketing.....no matter what combo of image size and DR I used, it didn't change the shutter speed when I exposure bracketed, it changed the ISO. Could this be because I was in Shutter Priority?

Also, I think you meant 8 MP not 6 MP for the HS50, haha.

I like the options in the Best Capture Mode menu where it lets you determine how many before and after shutter press frames you want to capture. I set mine to all after shutter press. I also noticed that you can select 14/16 frames in any resolution/DR combo and the camera will automatically change them (displayed in yellow) for those burst of shots and automatically go back to the saved settings when you turn Best Capture Mode off or change its settings.

--
https://supermanalexthegreat.shutterfly.com/
 
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Oh, that's a terrific find, and the camera you linked me to, actually seems to be more compact than the HS20/50 and I can get my 4/3 lenses to work with it.

I really never used the HS50 bracketing feature before so I was asking about it.....and I found out something I didn't like....it's actually ISO bracketing.....no matter what combo of image size and DR I used, it didn't change the shutter speed when I exposure bracketed, it changed the ISO. Could this be because I was in Shutter Priority?
No. AE bracketing uses the same shutter speed when you shoot in S priority, uses the same aperture when you shoot in A priority, and gets creative if you choose to use Auto ISO instead of fixed ISO.

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Also, I think you meant 8 MP not 6 MP for the HS50, haha.
Curses, foiled again ... :)

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I like the options in the Best Capture Mode menu where it lets you determine how many before and after shutter press frames you want to capture. I set mine to all after shutter press. I also noticed that you can select 14/16 frames in any resolution/DR combo and the camera will automatically change them (displayed in yellow) for those burst of shots and automatically go back to the saved settings when you turn Best Capture Mode off or change its settings.
When you change one setting and another setting turns yellow, it's because the new combination of settings would have been incompatible and it's Fuji's way of warning that it had to make a change. For instance, if you're shooting L size at ISO 100, you can raise the ISO until it reaches ISO 6400 and then the Image Size changes to M size and changes to yellow. Raise it to ISO 12800 and the same yellow warning color is displayed to indicate that the Image size changed to S. Use ISO 400 or higher and DR 400% and if you reduce the ISO, the DR turns yellow again to warn that the DR was reduced to 200% or 100%. I'm sure that there are other types of changes that also produce yellow warnings. I wish that one was "Warning, battery can only last for 20 more photos."
 
Thanks for the explanation, PR....could it be that it changed the ISO in S Priority because the Aperture being used was f/2.8? It couldn't go any lower so it chose to change the ISO instead.

I wonder how combining three pictures with three widely different ISO would look.

About the 6 MP thing I thought you were pointing out the resolution issues with EXR sensors.....in other words, if the camera only resolves 9 MP of detail at L size...... then surely it must resolve less than 8 MP of detail at M size...... the question is how much less? I sure hope the relationship isn't linear.

The vagaries of EXR sensors, I noticed you can't do ISO 6400 at M size if DR is 400, it puts an arrow next to it and switches over to DR 100 (in yellow of course.)

Could you imagine if digital cameras became like iphones and started talking in artificial voices? That'd be SO annoying.......

--
https://supermanalexthegreat.shutterfly.com/
 
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Thanks for the explanation, PR....could it be that it changed the ISO in S Priority because the Aperture being used was f/2.8? It couldn't go any lower so it chose to change the ISO instead.
That could be. Different cameras/brands use different Auto ISO algorithms so unless you study them for normal shooting (non-burst mode) it will be hard to predict what will happen. I think that if you're going to use Auto ISO for burst shooting, you'd be better off setting the camera to M mode so you'll be able to know what aperture and shutter speed you'll get.

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I wonder how combining three pictures with three widely different ISO would look.
I wouldn't want to do it with a sensor that gets noisy fast.

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About the 6 MP thing I thought you were pointing out the resolution issues with EXR sensors.....in other words, if the camera only resolves 9 MP of detail at L size...... then surely it must resolve less than 8 MP of detail at M size...... the question is how much less? I sure hope the relationship isn't linear.
No, I just blew it. EXR cameras get the most out of their resolution from M size photos. It's only L size that can't keep up with similar resolution Bayer sensors.
 
PR, no AUTO ISO in M mode :( it's something I was clamoring about.

The only benefit to AUTO ISO is the 1/3 ISO steps- there is no other way to access them.
 
Thanks for the help PR- now it works :)

About the new Sony 1/3" sensor.....why cant Sony make great small sensors like this for superzoom cameras? I'm sure Orion would love it!
Because Orion doesn't a market make. How many other photographers do you think might also be interested in tiny resolution cameras?
Orion currently has no camera companies so Making Markets is not really an option BUT Orion would Welcome ANY sensor that has Extremely Clean Capture ability . . . I'm currently drawn to the Sony 12-Mp FULL-FRAME Sensor but it's hardly a Candidate for a Small Footprint Super-Zoom Lens System.
That's a strange camera. Very good in low light, but I checked it using DPR's Eze-Duz-It studio comparitor and strangely enough, it didn't seem to significantly outperform cameras like the D4s and D810 at very high ISOs (up to ISO 25600) but at the extreme high ISOs, like ISO 204800 and 409600 where it finally did a lot better, it had pretty horrible chroma noise. Its advantage there was only that the D4s was clearly worse, not that the A7s was producing even halfway decent images. Maybe those ISO 409600 photos would be usable if they're downsized to 2mp? :)
The New Kodak Small Sensors interesting enough are producing some Pretty Decent Super-Zoom Output . . . :-) Good Shooting & Cheers from Orion :-D
My Kodak small sensor superzoom does pretty well until it gets near the long end of its focal length range, then if falls apart. Maybe the newer models (the ones not produced by the Kodak that bit the dust) are better, but if you get one, see how well it does beyond 1000mm while you can still return it.
I don't know about all the different Kodak SuperZoom Models but the 52x AZ521 & AZ522 Output is Looking Pretty Good imho . . . https://www.flickr.com/photos/125889350@N03/with/14620524293/
Appears the Build Quality / Ergonomics may not be that good BUT the IQ Looks Very High . . .

Cheers from Orion :-)
 
...

My Kodak small sensor superzoom does pretty well until it gets near the long end of its focal length range, then if falls apart. Maybe the newer models (the ones not produced by the Kodak that bit the dust) are better, but if you get one, see how well it does beyond 1000mm while you can still return it.
I don't know about all the different Kodak SuperZoom Models but the 52x AZ521 & AZ522 Output is Looking Pretty Good imho . . . https://www.flickr.com/photos/125889350@N03/with/14620524293/
Appears the Build Quality / Ergonomics may not be that good BUT the IQ Looks Very High . . .
Lots of nice looking photos there I gave up trying to find any that were shot using 1000mm or more. Most (showing the actual focal lengths) were between 4mm and 8mm but I did find one that was 13mm and another that was 39mm. Also, maybe I'm not familiar enough with Flickr, but I didn't see any way to download full resolution photos. I guess that permission must be granted by the uploader?
 
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I'm trying to do different things with exposure bracketing that aren't regular features of the camera- for example focus bracketing :)

Check this out, PR

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CombineZM

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bracketing#Depth-of-field_bracketing

I'm thinking that in S Priority I can do focus bracketing or depth of field bracketing by limiting the ISO to a single value or AUTO 400 or some such.

I'm also intrigued by white balance bracketing, though I'm sure both this and ISO bracketing can be easily managed by manipulation of RAW files? Because WB bracketing isn't a feature of any compact camera that I know of.

Pity that my old C-7070 offered up to 5 frames of exposure bracketing (-2,-1,0,+1,+2) and 4 custom saved WB settings


The C7070's Auto Bracketing (BKT) function is selected through the Shooting Mode Menu (Drive submenu), setting the camera to automatically bracket each exposure by as much as +/- 2 EV in either three- or five-steps with increments of 0.3, 0.7, or 1.0 EV units each. The bracketing function centers its efforts around whatever exposure you've chosen as the starting point, including any exposure compensation adjustments you've made, and captures up to five sequential shots with differing exposure while you hold the Shutter button down. This is a nice implementation of a useful exposure feature. The five-step option is particularly welcome, as the three-step exposure bracketing offered by many cameras often forces you to choose between a too-narrow bracketing range or too-large exposure steps.

The C7070 Wide Zoom's white balance menu offers a broader range of options than found on most high-end consumer digital cameras. No fewer than 11 options are available, including Auto, Shade, Cloudy, Sunny, Evening Sun, Daylight Fluorescent, Neutral Fluorescent, Cool White Fluorescent, White Fluorescent, Incandescent, and One-Touch / Custom. One-Touch is the manual setting, where white balance is calculated by placing a white card in front of the lens and pressing the Menu / OK button. The Custom mode lets you pick from four previously-saved white balances, set manually in similar fashion to the One-Touch option. (I really like this ability to save up to four separate custom settings. This lets you switch back and forth rapidly, without having to re-shoot a fresh white card test each time.) You can also fine-tune the white balance setting with the "WB+/-" setting under the Picture submenu. An adjustment bar appears on the LCD screen, with options to shift the color toward either the red or blue ends of the spectrum. I've always appreciated the ability to fine-tune white balance like this. Most digital cameras tend to have slight biases in their white balance systems under various lighting conditions. Once you get used to how a particular camera shoots, it's very helpful to have this sort of tweaking adjustment available to modify the color balance. The 7070's large number of adjustment steps provide very fine-grained control over a surprisingly broad range of color adjustment.
 
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I'm trying to do different things with exposure bracketing that aren't regular features of the camera- for example focus bracketing :)

Check this out, PR

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CombineZM

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bracketing#Depth-of-field_bracketing
Really nice photos.

.
I'm thinking that in S Priority I can do focus bracketing or depth of field bracketing by limiting the ISO to a single value or AUTO 400 or some such.
Why would you want to use Auto ISO? Like noise? It's my understanding that for the best focus bracketing you should use manual focus and keep it fixed for all photos, but have the camera on a rail that's incrementally advanced for each photo.

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I'm also intrigued by white balance bracketing, though I'm sure both this and ISO bracketing can be easily managed by manipulation of RAW files? Because WB bracketing isn't a feature of any compact camera that I know of.
You can do RAW edits that adjust the brightness, but that's not the same as ISO bracketing. It doesn't vary the noise, for instance. Most of Nikon's Coolpix cameras don't do WB bracketing but the Coolpix P7700 and the Coolpix A do. All of the DSLRs that I checked do WB bracketing (D50, D70, D70s, D90, D300, D7000, D7100, D800). The options are more limited for the D50 through D90, but the D300, D7000, D7100 and D800 have similar options. This is from the D800 manual :



bb6de2f797824fe3a10e085cc04509ce.jpg



271ad937bd2d485eb080bff73a592589.jpg



6e988895312441fa982f3dec7d354342.jpg

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Pity that my old C-7070 offered up to 5 frames of exposure bracketing (-2,-1,0,+1,+2) and 4 custom saved WB settings

http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/C7070/C70A5.HTM

The C7070's Auto Bracketing (BKT) function is selected through the Shooting Mode Menu (Drive submenu), setting the camera to automatically bracket each exposure by as much as +/- 2 EV in either three- or five-steps with increments of 0.3, 0.7, or 1.0 EV units each. The bracketing function centers its efforts around whatever exposure you've chosen as the starting point, including any exposure compensation adjustments you've made, and captures up to five sequential shots with differing exposure while you hold the Shutter button down. This is a nice implementation of a useful exposure feature. The five-step option is particularly welcome, as the three-step exposure bracketing offered by many cameras often forces you to choose between a too-narrow bracketing range or too-large exposure steps.

The C7070 Wide Zoom's white balance menu offers a broader range of options than found on most high-end consumer digital cameras. No fewer than 11 options are available, including Auto, Shade, Cloudy, Sunny, Evening Sun, Daylight Fluorescent, Neutral Fluorescent, Cool White Fluorescent, White Fluorescent, Incandescent, and One-Touch / Custom. One-Touch is the manual setting, where white balance is calculated by placing a white card in front of the lens and pressing the Menu / OK button. The Custom mode lets you pick from four previously-saved white balances, set manually in similar fashion to the One-Touch option. (I really like this ability to save up to four separate custom settings. This lets you switch back and forth rapidly, without having to re-shoot a fresh white card test each time.) You can also fine-tune the white balance setting with the "WB+/-" setting under the Picture submenu. An adjustment bar appears on the LCD screen, with options to shift the color toward either the red or blue ends of the spectrum. I've always appreciated the ability to fine-tune white balance like this. Most digital cameras tend to have slight biases in their white balance systems under various lighting conditions. Once you get used to how a particular camera shoots, it's very helpful to have this sort of tweaking adjustment available to modify the color balance. The 7070's large number of adjustment steps provide very fine-grained control over a surprisingly broad range of color adjustment.
Does the C-7070 allow you to create names for the custom white balances? If not, you would either need to have a good memory or keep track of the custom WBs in a notebook.
 
Thanks for the info, PR, looks like the Nikon cameras support these features much better than other brands do..... the AUTO ISO 400 was my choice to keep the ISO range limited to a small range so a widely varying ISO wouldn't come into play- and perhaps force the camera to change the aperture instead (for depth of field bracketing). A single ISO would be better. I was also thinking about playing around with DR bracketing at M size, but I dont think that would be very usable in any kind of stacking of images- the final exposures are all equivalent, some just more contrasty than others. DR bracketing at L size would most likely vary ISO again (as well as perhaps both shutter speed and aperture.)

The C-7070 only numbers each custom WB setting (1-4), just like the regular custom settings it saves (which are also 1-4). It is hard to remember, but becomes somewhat easier if you recall the color offset from auto WB of each one (and then you can tell which one it is by what hue the LCD display looks like in normal light.)

My Mode
Accessed by turning the Mode dial to the "My" position, this mode lets you save customized settings and then access them simply by turning the Mode dial. For example, if you consistently shoot in the same environment, you could save the exposure settings for those specific shooting conditions, so that they can be instantly recalled. (I can imagine this option being very handy for situations where you might have to switch quickly between two different settings. Think of a wedding reception, for instance: Standard "program" mode for outside shots on the lawn, etc, but a custom setup in My Mode to shoot the indoor scenes under incandescent lighting.) My Mode even lets you edit the Shortcut menu items, which appear when the Menu button is pressed, to reflect often-changed settings. The My Mode is very flexible, letting you preset the nearly all of the camera's parameters.

http://www.steves-digicams.com/came...oom/olympus-c-7070-wide-zoom-review-12.html#b

The motor-driven zoom moves smoothly and quietly through its range; I counted 21 steps of movement, more than enough to precisely compose your shots.

The lens produced sharp results throughout the zoom range except when stopped down to its smallest aperture, F11, where it was noticeably soft. It had noticeable barrel distortion at full wide angle, but no detectable pin cushioning at telephoto. There was a slight amount of chromatic aberration (purple fringing) in high-contrast areas at all focal lengths in normal exposures, but overexposure will intensify CA. The lens offers two macro settings, Macro and Super Macro; Super Macro allows you to focus as close as one inch, nearly filling the frame with an object the size of a dime!

No matter what you want in the way of features this camera has got it -- from the point and shoot simplicity of Program AE (with shift) to Shutter speed priority (4 to 1/2000 seconds), Aperture priority (F2.8 to F11) or full Manual with shutter speeds as long as 15 seconds plus Bulb and as short as 1/4000 second. Exposure metering options include matrix, spot, center-weighted, and a unique multi mode that lets you take individual readings from up to 8 points to calculate the final exposure. Its accurate Autofocus system is complemented with a manual focus mode having a distance gauge and a magnified central-LCD display to aid in critical focusing. White balance options include Auto, Shade, Cloudy, Sunny, Evening, Incandescent, Fluorescent 1,2,3,4 and manual Preset, plus a White Balance Adjustment which allows you to fine-tune the setting while observing its effect on the LCD's live image.

The C-7070's all-magnesium body is identical to the C-5060, with a large finger grip providing a comfortable and stable feel in your hand. The major controls like the mode, power dial, jog control, zoom lever and shutter button are ergonomically placed and easy to operate. Major settings (flash mode, drive mode, focus mode, metering mode, exposure compensation) are accomplished via onscreen "virtual dials." You can also see these changes on the monochrome data display on the top. The Dual Control Panel setup option turns the color LCD into a useful realtime data display of exposure settings. Particularly useful is the custom My Mode options where you can preset up to four sets of custom configuration combinations of image size, quality, operational mode, lens startup position, EV compensation, flash mode, and most every other camera option available. This is a powerful feature for recalling frequently-used settings, or as a startup default when you turn the camera on.

The C-7070 Wide Zoom gives the user a wide choice of image sizes and Quality settings from 640 x 480 to 3072 x 2304 in JPEG or uncompressed TIFF. It also offers a 3:2 aspect image for "perfect" 4x6" prints with no cropping, and RAW mode at the full 3072 x 2304 size of the imager with an option to save a duplicate JPEG at any of the camera's standard resolution settings. In-camera image processing options are provided for Sharpness, Contrast, Hue and Saturation, all with settings ranging +/-5. There's also an in-camera noise reduction option available for exposures longer than 1/2 second; it worked very effectively on our long exposure test shot.

--
https://supermanalexthegreat.shutterfly.com/
 
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...

My Kodak small sensor superzoom does pretty well until it gets near the long end of its focal length range, then if falls apart. Maybe the newer models (the ones not produced by the Kodak that bit the dust) are better, but if you get one, see how well it does beyond 1000mm while you can still return it.
I don't know about all the different Kodak SuperZoom Models but the 52x AZ521 & AZ522 Output is Looking Pretty Good imho . . . https://www.flickr.com/photos/125889350@N03/with/14620524293/
Appears the Build Quality / Ergonomics may not be that good BUT the IQ Looks Very High . . .
Lots of nice looking photos there I gave up trying to find any that were shot using 1000mm or more. Most (showing the actual focal lengths) were between 4mm and 8mm but I did find one that was 13mm and another that was 39mm. Also, maybe I'm not familiar enough with Flickr, but I didn't see any way to download full resolution photos. I guess that permission must be granted by the uploader?
I believe those are just the resolutions the poster uploaded . . . I did find a 91.8mm shot ( ~ 475mm @ 35mm Equiv ) but Nothing @ the Extreme 1,242mm End so you're likely correct in your Soft Telephoto End idea . . . The Wide to Mid Range certainly looks better than I expected for this price range of camera but it's not likely the Ideal Be-All Solution . . . :-)

Cheers from Orion :-)
 
alexisgreat wrote:

Thanks for the info, PR, looks like the Nikon cameras support these features much better than other brands do..... the AUTO ISO 400 was my choice to keep the ISO range limited to a small range so a widely varying ISO wouldn't come into play- and perhaps force the camera to change the aperture instead (for depth of field bracketing). A single ISO would be better. I was also thinking about playing around with DR bracketing at M size, but I dont think that would be very usable in any kind of stacking of images- the final exposures are all equivalent, some just more contrasty than others. DR bracketing at L size would most likely vary ISO again (as well as perhaps both shutter speed and aperture.)

The C-7070 only numbers each custom WB setting (1-4), just like the regular custom settings it saves (which are also 1-4). It is hard to remember, but becomes somewhat easier if you recall the color offset from auto WB of each one (and then you can tell which one it is by what hue the LCD display looks like in normal light.)

My Mode
Accessed by turning the Mode dial to the "My" position, this mode lets you save customized settings and then access them simply by turning the Mode dial. For example, if you consistently shoot in the same environment, you could save the exposure settings for those specific shooting conditions, so that they can be instantly recalled. (I can imagine this option being very handy for situations where you might have to switch quickly between two different settings. Think of a wedding reception, for instance: Standard "program" mode for outside shots on the lawn, etc, but a custom setup in My Mode to shoot the indoor scenes under incandescent lighting.) My Mode even lets you edit the Shortcut menu items, which appear when the Menu button is pressed, to reflect often-changed settings. The My Mode is very flexible, letting you preset the nearly all of the camera's parameters.

http://www.steves-digicams.com/came...oom/olympus-c-7070-wide-zoom-review-12.html#b

What I found interesting was this :

In addition to the still image modes the C-7070 can also record 640x480 and 320x240 resolution QuickTime movies at 15 or 30fps with sound. Movie recording time is limited to 20 seconds for 640x480 30fps clips, but only by the amount of available memory at 15fps and 320x240. The movies are sharp and clear but both the optical zoom and full-time AF are disabled during recording when the audio is enabled, preventing the noise of lens movement from being recorded; the optical zoom can be used to compose the movie before recording starts. You'll need a large memory card if you intend to record movies at 640x480 and 30fps; our test movies consumed about 1.5 megabytes of memory per second of moving image.

The motor-driven zoom moves smoothly and quietly through its range; I counted 21 steps of movement, more than enough to precisely compose your shots.

The lens produced sharp results throughout the zoom range except when stopped down to its smallest aperture, F11, where it was noticeably soft. It had noticeable barrel distortion at full wide angle, but no detectable pin cushioning at telephoto. There was a slight amount of chromatic aberration (purple fringing) in high-contrast areas at all focal lengths in normal exposures, but overexposure will intensify CA. The lens offers two macro settings, Macro and Super Macro; Super Macro allows you to focus as close as one inch, nearly filling the frame with an object the size of a dime!

No matter what you want in the way of features this camera has got it -- from the point and shoot simplicity of Program AE (with shift) to Shutter speed priority (4 to 1/2000 seconds), Aperture priority (F2.8 to F11) or full Manual with shutter speeds as long as 15 seconds plus Bulb and as short as 1/4000 second. Exposure metering options include matrix, spot, center-weighted, and a unique multi mode that lets you take individual readings from up to 8 points to calculate the final exposure. Its accurate Autofocus system is complemented with a manual focus mode having a distance gauge and a magnified central-LCD display to aid in critical focusing. White balance options include Auto, Shade, Cloudy, Sunny, Evening, Incandescent, Fluorescent 1,2,3,4 and manual Preset, plus a White Balance Adjustment which allows you to fine-tune the setting while observing its effect on the LCD's live image.

The C-7070's all-magnesium body is identical to the C-5060, with a large finger grip providing a comfortable and stable feel in your hand. The major controls like the mode, power dial, jog control, zoom lever and shutter button are ergonomically placed and easy to operate. Major settings (flash mode, drive mode, focus mode, metering mode, exposure compensation) are accomplished via onscreen "virtual dials." You can also see these changes on the monochrome data display on the top. The Dual Control Panel setup option turns the color LCD into a useful realtime data display of exposure settings. Particularly useful is the custom My Mode options where you can preset up to four sets of custom configuration combinations of image size, quality, operational mode, lens startup position, EV compensation, flash mode, and most every other camera option available. This is a powerful feature for recalling frequently-used settings, or as a startup default when you turn the camera on.

The C-7070 Wide Zoom gives the user a wide choice of image sizes and Quality settings from 640 x 480 to 3072 x 2304 in JPEG or uncompressed TIFF. It also offers a 3:2 aspect image for "perfect" 4x6" prints with no cropping, and RAW mode at the full 3072 x 2304 size of the imager with an option to save a duplicate JPEG at any of the camera's standard resolution settings. In-camera image processing options are provided for Sharpness, Contrast, Hue and Saturation, all with settings ranging +/-5. There's also an in-camera noise reduction option available for exposures longer than 1/2 second; it worked very effectively on our long exposure test shot.

--
https://supermanalexthegreat.shutterfly.com/
 
Yes, and the lens is rather limiting since it only zooms to 110mm :P

I was wondering if you found film simulation bracketing of any use.....or is this something we can achieve by playing around with the saturation and contrast sliders in PP?

I was looking at the comparison images on this page:

http://www.ephotozine.com/article/fujifilm-finepix-hs50exr-review-21682

under HS50 digital filters, and while I found the saturation pop of Velvia mode interesting, I found that Astia clips blacks rather easily.

I also found this


but this is for the X-E1, I dont know if this would apply to the HS series.

Richard Butler uses Astia (X100)



I'm using L size DR bracketing as a pseudo depth of field bracketing, as keeping the shutter speed slow enough forces the camera to select lower ISO (AUTO ISO 800) and thus requires a change of aperture in shutter priority when changing the DR at L size to keep the exposure value the same.

BTW I really wish Fuji allowed the saving of more than one custom setting- technology should be going forward not backward :(

--https://supermanalexthegreat.shutterfly.com/
 
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Yes, and the lens is rather limiting since it only zooms to 110mm :P

I was wondering if you found film simulation bracketing of any use.....or is this something we can achieve by playing around with the saturation and contrast sliders in PP?
I think that bracketing should be used sparingly, only for when a rare shooting opportunity comes along that probably won't soon again appear and you might want to bracket exposures (even if they won't be used for HDR) to get the optimal exposure. But then you'd also want to have the camera saving RAW images too. Film simulation bracketing is the least useful to me. I suppose it's alright for trying to determine which emulation works best in different shooting situations but frankly, I don't see a compelling need to use it more than rarely.

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I was looking at the comparison images on this page:

http://www.ephotozine.com/article/fujifilm-finepix-hs50exr-review-21682

under HS50 digital filters, and while I found the saturation pop of Velvia mode interesting, I found that Astia clips blacks rather easily.

I'm using L size DR bracketing as a pseudo depth of field bracketing, as keeping the shutter speed slow enough forces the camera to select lower ISO (AUTO ISO 800) and thus requires a change of aperture in shutter priority when changing the DR at L size to keep the exposure value the same.

BTW I really wish Fuji allowed the saving of more than one custom setting- technology should be going forward not backward :(
I tried making the hint obvious. Please try to make it obvious in your replies which text is produced by you (by typing on the keyboard) and which is cut & pasted from articles. It's really easy to do. When you don't, it makes reading your replies more difficult and sometimes not worth the effort. You don't even have to select an entire paragraph, only one character needs to be highlighted, and then one mouse click does it.

Like this.
Like this.
Like this.
Like this.
 
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Oh, I didn't copy and paste anything from the links, I only posted the links plus my commentary.
 
Oh, I didn't copy and paste anything from the links, I only posted the links plus my commentary.
Sorry about that, then. But look at your previous reply. It's gotten to the point that when you show links and don't follow it with quote indicators when quotes really are included, I start automatically assuming that it's more of the same. You also have been recently replying without including any context quotes, so I have to open my previous post to see what you're replying to. If I also did that, I wouldn't have included your "Oh, I didn't copy and paste ... my commentary" quote in this reply. The goal is to aid comprehension and readability, even if you, I or someone else never read any of the previous replies.
 
I think I need to find a new broswer, Qupzilla, doesn't let me do any of that, I find myself going back to re-read your posts to make sure I am replying to them properly.

At any rate, PR, is there any kind of action, preset or plug in that simulates Astia or Velvia in PS or IV? When looking at the LCD preview, I cant see much of a difference between Provia and Astia, but much more of one vs Velvia. I dont really see why Butler recommends Astia, in the ephotozine link I posted (the only one which is from an HS50 review), Astia clips to black much faster than either of the other two, I also read in the X-E1 review that it makes greens look yellow (really bad for landscape foliage!)
 

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