Converting LX5 to InfraRed

Had anyone performed this?

Is it hard to reassemble sensor module correctly and presize?

I'm planning to upgrade from LX5 to LX7 and convert LX5 to IR version (delete IR-blocking filter and attach IR filter via adapter ring when needed)

Zebooka said:

Zebooka wrote:

Had anyone performed this?

Is it hard to reassemble sensor module correctly and presize?

I'm planning to upgrade from LX5 to LX7 and convert LX5 to IR version (delete IR-blocking filter and attach IR filter via adapter ring when needed)

--
Linux photographer == Taiga, Siberia, Russia
My web site - http://zebooka.com

Click to expand...

Not sure about the LX series cameras, but it is apparently pretty easy to acces the sensor on TZ series cameras.

Here is a link to one thread discussing this - there are a LOT of such links:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3237713#forum-post-42042702

When you get down to the sensor, it is covered by a little rectangular glass filter, blue-ish in color which cuts out most Infrared. This filter is what you want to remove. It must not be too difficult, as several people have reported that theirs has fallen loose.

With the little blue filter removed, you now have an IR Camera, as you state.

I hope this helps.

-Erik












--
'He who hesitates is not only lost - he's miles from the next Exit.'
www.flickr.com/ohlsonmh/ [email protected]

Are you planning to do it yourself or have a conversion company do it?

What filter are you planning to use?

I recommend that you go on the following website devoted exclusively to ir photography and ask the same question that you are asking on this forum.








Good luck with your decision.




Below is a few ir photos that I took with my converted Panasonic G1.






















--
Howard

Great! A lnk to something specific, which may really help, Thanks.

Meanwhile, an Infrared taken at Machu Picchu, Peru by just handholding an R72 filter in front of a little Minolta X-50 camera:




The "Intiwatana", or 'hitching post of the Sun' is in the upper left.

-Erik






--
'He who hesitates is not only lost - he's miles from the next Exit.'
www.flickr.com/ohlsonmh/ [email protected]

Sorry to bring back this old thread. I am interested in doing the conversion myself and was able to find the service manual on-line. After going through the manual, I believe the procedure should be similar to what this LZ5 IR conversion video shows. The only problem is two of the three screws that secures the CCD module to the lens assembly need to be adjusted to ensure proper lens optical tilt and the manual doesn't have much details on the adjustment unfortunately. Also there are special "tools" needed too. I wonder if anyone knows details about this optical tilt adjustment. Thanks.

I went through the service manual carefully and now I think I know what is going on. The adjustment is to ensure that the lens and the CCD are in parallel. A few things are required to do it properly: a light box, an alignment chart and quite a few extension cables that connect the disassembled units (main board, lens unit, LCD, ...) to operate as a functional camera. I guess one can look at the LCD with the light box and the alignment chart in front the lens and adjusts the 2 screws to compress the spring underneath for proper CCD tilt. I doubt that Panasonic sells these things at all, especially the extension cables (others can probably be improvised), and wonder how many of those IR conversion service outlets have this setup to do the alignment properly. Meanwhile I also learned a technique that is widely used: count the number of screw turns to remove the screw during disassembling and apply the same number of turns during assembling. I guess it may get one close enough. I think I can find an LX5 that has problem, and cheap, but with good lens unit (CCD is screwed onto it) and give it a try first. At worst, I can put back my own lens unit and continue to use my own good LX5.

I'd say: "Don't over-think this."

I just did a TZ5 a couple of days ago - no problem. Took only a few minutes.

When I do a job like this I like to sketch the camera (or 'whatever') on a sheet of paper and place the screws on the right position on the sketch.

The various youtube videos do not mention adjusting for parallellism - and I didn't find anything like that: the screws are tightened down solid - and the sensor plate is well located - just put it in place and tighten it down.

These cameras are designed for simple assembly, unless you manage to place the sensor plate grossly out of place, it's no problem.

Of course, I did a TZ5 & you have an LX, somewhat differnt but not likely to be much different.

The biggest problem I had was locating a 0000 phillips screwdriver - Graham Houghton says 000 but that did not fit in the screws AT ALL.



--
"Measure wealth not by things you have but by things for which you would not take money"
www.flickr.com/ohlsonmh/ [email protected]

Thanks for sharing your experience, Erik. I believe the procedure for LX5 is similar to LZ5, more or less. It isn't that complicated but I found that the procedure for Canon G12 would be much easier - just 8 screws and one ribbon cable - to gain access to the sensor unit. Maybe I should buy a G12 for IR conversion instead. It would be a piece of cake if parallelism readjustment is necessary. Now I am over-thinking it again.

Fascinating! May I ask? When you have the LX5 converted? Does it eliminate the hotspot present in long exposures? Thanks

The Soy F717 can be used for IR by setting it on "Night Shot" but is restricted to 1/60 at f2. Takes beautiful IR shots though.

Jack









--
www.pbase.com/jbrandt

Have to find a replacement first. Have my eyes on either GM5 or LX100. I am not in a hurry because I have a converted DSLR (Pentax DL) for the time being. Will update as soon as I get it done.

Finally got the time, and mood too, to do the conversion. I had the IR-cut filter removed but did not put in an IR pass filter. So it is a full spectrum camera now. I don't have a lens adapter so I just hand-held a 58mm 720nm IR lens filter in front of the lens to take some quick test shots around the house. My purpose was to get a taste of its noise performance (being a tiny sensor). My first take is it may be ok for what I want to do. Today was cloudy and I will do the test again on a sunny day to get a better idea.