Fujifilm X-S1 On Order For An Old-Timer

You might want to try the free Faststone - it's what I use.

2 from yesterday.



Coming in for a landing.

Coming in for a landing.



What can I say - they love me.

What can I say - they love me.

Bill

--
My Google+ albums
Dragonflies
Birds along the Lake Apopka Loop Trail
 
Another way to choose a program is to see if it can [easily] make your photos look the way you want them to look. This is an example of a photo edited in Picasa, which for will improve many photos in a few clicks.

Original first.


Original cropped, but no other edits.


4 Clicks in Picasa.


And a few adjustments in Zoner 15.

Also, Picasa has a very nice Fill Light feature (which I didn't use here, but could have).
 
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I've been running an XS-1 for about two years now. From the traffic and questions, some random thoughts:

Built like a tank. I thought the rubber covering would be weird, but it really works well. My lens does wobble every so slightly at full extension, but can't find any evidence that it interferes with image quality. The zoom lens can creep mechanically at steep 'departure angles', but I've had Nikkors that did this, so whaddya do? The EVF is a standout for me. I really thought I'd have to get used to it, but I took to it like a duck to water, to the point I only compose with the aft LCD on the tripod, where the tilt screen can come in real handy, reminds me of using a TLR. The eye sensor for me works fine.

I've never been able to see any vignetting with the included hood at 24mm.

With the long physical extension as you zoom, you WILL see a shadow of the lens with the built-in flash. I use the Fujifilm EF42 flash with mine (a match made in heaven) and that cures it at any focal length shadow-wise. In the 24, 28mm range, you will see the shadow of the hood with the pop-up flash: Remove the hood at widest wide-angles and you're fine. And like all the X's, the flash capabilities are very fine.

It runs 62mm filters, so you can get anything from any maker, a fairly common size. I run the Fuji EBC protector filter (got a deal, thanks B+H !) and a Hoya polarizer. These are 'standard' depth filters and I've never seen them vignette at 24mm.

I'd get one extra battery, no more unless you plan on extended stays in the rough away from any AC. They last a long time in the X-S; I've burned through one and started the second, but never more than that, even on a day-long museum trip where I did finally have to switch to the second after 400+ frames.

The macro capabilities are immense. Bear in mind, this just doesn't work past 135mm, but there is a tremendous 'sweet spot' macro-wise at around 100-135mm stopped down a stop or two: This allows you some 'back-off' maneuvering room. If I go 'Super Macro', I invariably have to back up, or the sheet-of-paper-thick depth of filed catches me out usually.

I typically run ISO's from 100 to 800 for quality, and run either DPR Auto or 400%, at L4:3 image size.

I'd stick with Class 10 cards. I use either Fuji's or SanDisk in 8gb size: Quicker to unload, and remarkably, I may be the only person that uses them, as they can be had CHEAP ! Some of the other guys have commented on read/write speeds, and I'll leave that to their expertise. Typically I shoot no video, and am a JPEG hobbyist, so I get to skip the software wars and RAW discussions.

The XS was my first digital SLR-ish camera, too. I frankly could not make sense of the 'format' wars between FF or APS/C, much less then to narrow it down to a Canon or Panasonic or Nikon or whoever. Two years later, simple enough, I'll get an XT or XE one day, I've been a Fuji fan since the film days, but not today.

The knock on these cameras is yes, it is a 2/3" sensor, and you don't get the results you'd get with a Rebel or an X100, etc. I fully agree. My long shots certainly don't look like they were taken with a D4 and a 300/2.8, but I saved 7 grand, but I do have just as much fun, and it's a hoot trying to get close to that look with what I have, stretches me to think.

But . . . . the beauty of these cameras is I leave the house with the XS-1, the EF42 flash, a spare battery, a spare card, and that's it. If something particular is involved, I'll take the big tripod and the RR80 remote release. So that's travelling VERY light, and with this, I can take full moon shots, birds in the top of a tree, macros of flowers, family photos with bounce or fill-in flash, just about anything I can think of. This really appeals to me. It's just a very organic way of working with very little. I'm not publishing pro work, I'm not printing 16x20's, and the only RAW I'm used to is a Sushi bar, so for me it works great.

And good on you, what a great deal !



Red Tatra, Lane Motor Museum Nashville, XS-1
Red Tatra, Lane Motor Museum Nashville, XS-1



' . . . this wasn't the split-window I was thinking of . . . .', XS-1
' . . . this wasn't the split-window I was thinking of . . . .', XS-1



CZ racer interior, Lane Motor Museum, Nashville, XS-1
CZ racer interior, Lane Motor Museum, Nashville, XS-1



Not a boy, just a Gull.  XS-1
Not a boy, just a Gull. XS-1

These are all fine-tuned and/or cropped in Windows Live Photo Editor or the included Fuji Finepix Studio. Like I said, I'm a JPEG guy.
 
I haven't had much luck with the Fuji software for editing (I liked the old c. 2004 version better).

Though I think the Windows Live Photo software works well, my objections to it (besides the obvious: having to download the whole suite including stuff I did not want) included overwriting the original file, saving the edited file as a much smaller file, and the auto straightening it sometimes does (even if you don't want it to). It does have some nice features, like the undo list and noise removal, but be aware.
 
Speedex, thanks for those "comforting words". As you probably know by now I'm an old 35mm (film) guy and the X-S1 is my first digicam (other than the one in my iPad). I'm reading the manual trying to familiarize myself with all of the various dials, buttons and settings - totally overwhelming for this 'digicam-noob'!!! :-|
 
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Another way to choose a program is to see if it can [easily] make your photos look the way you want them to look. This is an example of a photo edited in Picasa, which for will improve many photos in a few clicks.

Original first.


Original cropped, but no other edits.


4 Clicks in Picasa.


And a few adjustments in Zoner 15.

Also, Picasa has a very nice Fill Light feature (which I didn't use here, but could have).
Yeah, all personal preferences and all that. However, I think the original is the best version here. IMHO, you made the body of the critter too dark in the adjustments, and lost some of the detail there. The Picasa version made the flowers too pink as well.

I usually just set basic black/white points, and add a little sharpening for a more natural look to an image. Occasionally a bit more work is required, but again IMHO, small steps is best.

Cheers.

--
Andy Hewitt
Using FujiFilm X-S1 and Apple iMac 27" 3.2GHz
 
Depends on what the actual color of the flower was, though :-). I find Picasa's Auto Color is often "off" and usually don't use it.

I like Zoner a lot because it allows me to "fix" the black and white points, but that process may be unfamiliar to someone who hasn't used photo editing software before.

Picasa allows a lot of play without damaging the original file and makes it possible to see multiple different sets of adjustments (by using Save a Copy) to see what the user likes best. And one click "remove all edits" to start over. It can be a useful way to learn about editing workflow and the effects/changes possible. Whether that is sufficient will depend on the user, as well as, whether they want to learn more about using other programs--or spend money on more advanced software.

I have taught the use of Picasa and other simple editing programs to groups of folks who just want their family, travel, and garden snapshots to look better, and for that purpose, it works great.

My personal choices are Zoner and Sagelight, though mastering SL will take some time.
 
Of course, another problem is monitor color calibration. My photos looks different on each of my monitors so photos on the web will look different to different viewers, as well. What looks right on my main laptop computer usually looks too dark on the ipad and my old CRT monitor.
 
Depends on what the actual color of the flower was, though :-). I find Picasa's Auto Color is often "off" and usually don't use it.
That is very true of course, although we might have some idea of how plants normally look in real life.
I like Zoner a lot because it allows me to "fix" the black and white points, but that process may be unfamiliar to someone who hasn't used photo editing software before.
Yes, it's the first thing I do in LightRoom. It's also available in many others too, such as Apple Aperture, RawTherapee and darktable etc.
Picasa allows a lot of play without damaging the original file and makes it possible to see multiple different sets of adjustments (by using Save a Copy) to see what the user likes best. And one click "remove all edits" to start over. It can be a useful way to learn about editing workflow and the effects/changes possible. Whether that is sufficient will depend on the user, as well as, whether they want to learn more about using other programs--or spend money on more advanced software.

I have taught the use of Picasa and other simple editing programs to groups of folks who just want their family, travel, and garden snapshots to look better, and for that purpose, it works great.

My personal choices are Zoner and Sagelight, though mastering SL will take some time.
I have a dislike of the Google software on a Mac, they tend to install a very aggressive background auto-update process, which polls home, and keeps waking machines unnecessarily.

The others, I can't test, as I don't use Windows, although having bought LightRoom, which works very will with the Fuji Raws, I see little need to look at other 'pay' options (unless Adobe screw us over with LightRoom soon, which they might do - I hate the 'cloud' purchase system).
 
Of course, another problem is monitor color calibration. My photos looks different on each of my monitors so photos on the web will look different to different viewers, as well. What looks right on my main laptop computer usually looks too dark on the ipad and my old CRT monitor.
Indeed so, it's one of the things I often mention myself.

Mine have been calibrated using a Spyder, although as you say, even with calibration they can all appear different. I have a year old iMac 27", which are usually pretty good on accuracy, AFAIK.

However, it wasn't just a look at an image, but the fact that three comparisons had been provided, so that a direct comparison could be made.
 
I like to have a spare battery with me when I go out with any of my cameras.

The worst thing is when the battery goes dead and you are in the middle of shooting.

The other nice thing about a spare battery is that you don't have to be constantly "topping off" the battery when you are at home. You just charge a battery when you have swapped it out with the spare one. No anxiety. I always use the manufacturer's brand battery, no third market batteries (even though others swear by them).

On the SD card, I've been using Fuji branded 16 gb cards without any problems for a couple years now.

Another option that will reduce the time you spend worrying about the camera is a UV or clear glass protective filter for the front of the lens. Easy to clean, no issues with scratching the front element, and so on. I guess the X-S1 has a front filter thread but I don't know what size it is.

When mounting the filter the first time, place a small piece of lens tissue on the highest point of the front element to be sure the filter glass does not touch it.
 
Depends on what the actual color of the flower was, though :-). I find Picasa's Auto Color is often "off" and usually don't use it.

I like Zoner a lot because it allows me to "fix" the black and white points, but that process may be unfamiliar to someone who hasn't used photo editing software before.

Picasa allows a lot of play without damaging the original file and makes it possible to see multiple different sets of adjustments (by using Save a Copy) to see what the user likes best. And one click "remove all edits" to start over. It can be a useful way to learn about editing workflow and the effects/changes possible. Whether that is sufficient will depend on the user, as well as, whether they want to learn more about using other programs--or spend money on more advanced software.

I have taught the use of Picasa and other simple editing programs to groups of folks who just want their family, travel, and garden snapshots to look better, and for that purpose, it works great.

My personal choices are Zoner and Sagelight, though mastering SL will take some time.
Over the years, I've used Picasa a lot. Now that I've 'graduated' to 64-bit Windows & 64-bit MS Outlook I find Picasa's not very compatible. For example, I am unable to email photos from Picasa using MS Outlook (I guess Google would prefer that I use Gmail)!

It seems that Google isn't very interested in developing a 64-bit version of Picasa (it's been 'stuck' on v3.9 for over a year!). Thinking of moving on to PSP X7 (seems quite capable, very user-friendly and has a 64-bit version).
 
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I have a dislike of the Google software on a Mac, they tend to install a very aggressive background auto-update process, which polls home, and keeps waking machines unnecessarily.
The others, I can't test, as I don't use Windows, although having bought LightRoom, which works very will with the Fuji Raws, I see little need to look at other 'pay' options (unless Adobe screw us over with LightRoom soon, which they might do - I hate the 'cloud' purchase system).

--
Andy Hewitt
Using FujiFilm X-S1 and Apple iMac 27" 3.2GHz
One of the first things I do with any new software (Windows updates and Google included) is disable auto updates and auto start. (Don't get me started about iTunes!) I block a lot of stuff with my firewall, turn off services, etc.

Also not a fan of Adobe cloud--dumped InDesign because of it.
 
.....US members looking for a good deal on this camera should know that Wolfe's Camera Shop (www.wolfes.com), an authorized Fujifilm retailer, is selling it for $299.99 including shipping. Only KS residents pay sales tax. Other than being a customer I'm not affiliated with Wolfe's (heck, I've been retired for 15 years)!with 34A.
Hey 35mm, I really need to thank you for letting us know about Wolfe's Camera. Amazon has been raising their X-S1 price every day (it's now up to $450!) so I thought that I lost out on a great deal. Then I saw your thread and placed my X-S1 order with Wolfe's for $300. Got it today. :)
 
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I have a dislike of the Google software on a Mac, they tend to install a very aggressive background auto-update process, which polls home, and keeps waking machines unnecessarily.

The others, I can't test, as I don't use Windows, although having bought LightRoom, which works very will with the Fuji Raws, I see little need to look at other 'pay' options (unless Adobe screw us over with LightRoom soon, which they might do - I hate the 'cloud' purchase system).
 
FWIW, I'd probably look to RawTherapee if it came to changing yet again, cross platform, free, and pretty easy to use, and gets Raw updates faster than the commercial options.

--
Andy Hewitt
Using FujiFilm X-S1 and Apple iMac 27" 3.2GHz
I have downloaded RawTherapee, but haven't installed or tired it yet. Same with Fuji's updated RawConverter. I will try it out. Thanks.
 
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have you taken any pictures yet with your new camera,dont be shy to show

and i hope this message finds you feeling fit and well regards bassy
 

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