Battery's- Quantum (QBIc) Saves money and time

Thanks for the feedback.

I decided to ditch the Quantum solution (going to get it exchanged
for a epson photo printer).

OUt of interest (and hopefully something not answered before!) if
the camera requires a minimum of 5v and 1.7a (going by what the
Sigma PSU tells me on its label), using a higher voltage/ampage
battery configuration means you can run the camera longer (without
damaging it)? Presumably it is drawing only what it needs (and if
there is alot of it there....)
The internal solution is 1.5 x 4 or 6Vs. Though NiMH AA's are a
little low on voltage, generally, so its probably closer to 5V,
especially as it dies.
The voltage of the 4 NiMHs is actually down to about 5V as soon as they really work, if you measure the voltage with a load you can also see that.
Another interesting battery configuration:
http://www.photosolve.com/main/product/dualforce/

http://www.modelpower.co.uk/acatalog/Racing_Packs.html - these
guys have battery packs going up to 9.6v/3.3a. Presumably this
is "safe" to use, giving a decent run.
I wouldn't go to 9V, that could fry the camera. Infact, I wouldn't
go to 8.
I would suggest to be even carefull about 7.2V, yes it worked for some people but we don't know the effect this has on the C part or might have on the voltage/ampage that the C part outputs to the lens. As we have seen there seem to be some more critical Lenses out there than others you can imagine what could happen with some bad luck ...
Incidentally, where did you get your cable, which links the battery
unit to the Camera from?
Thats not my pic, but radioshack sells both connectors you need.
You have to get the polarity right by measuring the DC adapter's
output first and matching it.
It is like it is in 99% of the cases, the outer contact of the DC is - the inner one is +. Anyway another thing to consider is the voltage at which the Camera turns off, the Olys you refer to seem to be a bit more critical than the sd9 here. I was close to damaging my 5 cell test setup because the Camera was still working at a point that was very close (or was even below this point) at which you get deep discharge trouble, imagine how far this could go with a 6 cell setup...
--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
 
If this is
not enough the powepack is the way to go it will also give you a
vertical shutter and will nicely attach to the Camera and not hang
around everywhere you don't want it like an external pack.
And it's 1/2 the price of the Nikon equivelant. $125 for a vertical
grip battery pack is tolerable.
Wow, here I was talking about how nice Sigma was, for coming out
with a battery grip half the price of the $250 Nikon grip. And
along comes Olympus, with a battery grip over $500.
Concerning prices they are clearly out of the range people would spend on the Body and Lenses and $500 for a battery grip, they must be insane. To me it seems that they won't get their R&D coasts back with that system...

--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
 
Wow, here I was talking about how nice Sigma was, for coming out
with a battery grip half the price of the $250 Nikon grip. And
along comes Olympus, with a battery grip over $500.
Concerning prices they are clearly out of the range people would
spend on the Body and Lenses and $500 for a battery grip, they must
be insane. To me it seems that they won't get their R&D coasts back
with that system...
My personal theory is that they've got all the accessory prices set artifically high (roughly $500 each for flash, 1.4x teleconverter, and battery grip) to give the dealers some high margin items they can use for nice "package" deals.

--
Ciao!

Joe
 

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