i1 Display Pro question

Hi,

I just bought an i1 Display Pro from a recent deal by BH photo. On the box it says "part of bundled solution, not for individual sale". Is it normal to see that? The part number is E0DIS3-BOX-XR1. I heard these things degrade after a couple of years. Right below the part number on the box it says 11/2010. Does this mean the unit is made in 2010(4 years ago)? I also heard that the serial number shows the actual date and it says 14 (2014). I'm a little confused and afraid to open it if it really is 4 years old.

Thanks in advance.

godlyatheist said:

Hi,

I just bought an i1 Display Pro from a recent deal by BH photo. On the box it says "part of bundled solution, not for individual sale". Is it normal to see that? The part number is E0DIS3-BOX-XR1. I heard these things degrade after a couple of years. Right below the part number on the box it says 11/2010. Does this mean the unit is made in 2010(4 years ago)? I also heard that the serial number shows the actual date and it says 14 (2014). I'm a little confused and afraid to open it if it really is 4 years old.

Thanks in advance.

Click to expand...

You certainly purchased your i1Display Pro from the right place - B&H. Just give them a call and explain your concerns. I'm certain they'll resolve your issue.

soloryb

Almost everything decays, some faster than others...
If they are made like DTP-94(non organic filters) they will last long
time and if they are made like the i1Display2(organic filters) they will
decay faster, I read somewhere that they use non organic filters, but now
I am not so sure, anyway I do not know any case of i1Display Pro decayed yet.
I hope mine stays fit for a long time...

Pictus said:

Almost everything decays, some faster than others...
If they are made like DTP-94(non organic filters) they will last long
time and if they are made like the i1Display2(organic filters) they will
decay faster, I read somewhere that they use non organic filters, but now
I am not so sure, anyway I do not know any case of i1Display Pro decayed yet.
I hope mine stays fit for a long time...

Click to expand...

X-rite says they are made with sealed glass filter, suppose to last a long time according to them. I'm okay with it if the unit was made in 2014 and not in 2010. Cause 4 years is a long time for the thing to sit. Would you be able to tell me the first 4 digits of your serial number and when you bought the i1 Pictus? Mine is i1-14 and supposedly it means the unit was made in 2014.

Then probably will last a long time, the DTP-94 still works today.
The serial is i3-13.A-02.xxxxxx.xx, was build at 03/2013 and bought in 2013.

OK thanks a bunch, I will test my unit then.

Just tried it out. It appears that I have to set the white point to Native instead of 6500K, else I get a strong green tint like the Spyder4Pro I tried last year. Does any one know why this is? I see noticeable improvement on the reds: it's actually red now instead of reddish orange. Not bad for <$140.

godlyatheist said:

Just tried it out. It appears that I have to set the white point to Native instead of 6500K, else I get a strong green tint like the Spyder4Pro I tried last year. Does any one know why this is?

Click to expand...

Couldn't say for sure, but all my cheap and old screens seem to do this.

The higher the correction curve is, worse the results as the graphic card LUT is 8 bits, that is why PRO monitors have programmable hardware internal LUT with 14/16 bits.

You may get better results this way.

godlyatheist said:

Just tried it out. It appears that I have to set the white point to Native instead of 6500K, else I get a strong green tint like the Spyder4Pro I tried last year. Does any one know why this is?

Click to expand...

Using the native White Point just means that the monitor RGB gains are set to 100% and all of the adjustments are done from the LUT. Setting a color-corrected white point means you first set the end-point of the LUT transfer function using the RGB gains.

If you are programming a 10+ bit monitor LUT, it does not matter. If you are programming an 8-bit video driver LUT, I'd set the white point on the monitor and then profile it.

godlyatheist said:

Pictus said:

Almost everything decays, some faster than others...
If they are made like DTP-94(non organic filters) they will last long
time and if they are made like the i1Display2(organic filters) they will
decay faster, I read somewhere that they use non organic filters, but now
I am not so sure, anyway I do not know any case of i1Display Pro decayed yet.
I hope mine stays fit for a long time...

Click to expand...

X-rite says they are made with sealed glass filter, suppose to last a long time according to them. I'm okay with it if the unit was made in 2014 and not in 2010. Cause 4 years is a long time for the thing to sit. Would you be able to tell me the first 4 digits of your serial number and when you bought the i1 Pictus? Mine is i1-14 and supposedly it means the unit was made in 2014.

Click to expand...

Yours is new I think. My box also says Printed in China 11/2010. I think they just printed up a whole slew of boxes or designed the box back in November of 2010.

My serial number starts with i1.11.A-02

Another part of my box says copyright 2011.

I'm guessing they designed and/or printed up the boxes in 2010 and got copyrights on the name of the probe and it's logo in 2011 and that my actual unit was manufactured in 2011, maybe April or August (although the A-02 might be a revision?).

I don't quite recall when I got it, probably 2011 or 2012.

godlyatheist said:

Just tried it out. It appears that I have to set the white point to Native instead of 6500K, else I get a strong green tint like the Spyder4Pro I tried last year. Does any one know why this is? I see noticeable improvement on the reds: it's actually red now instead of reddish orange. Not bad for <$140.

Click to expand...

what monitor?

Laptop monitor, AUO B156HW01 v4. It's a wide gamut TN panel used in the Thinkpad W530. I think the back light is WLED, not sure.

Repeated the calibration with native white point and it came out green again, using the "good" profile right now. Do I need to do it in a dark room?

godlyatheist said:

Laptop monitor, AUO B156HW01 v4. It's a wide gamut TN panel used in the Thinkpad W530. I think the back light is WLED, not sure.

Repeated the calibration with native white point and it came out green again, using the "good" profile right now. Do I need to do it in a dark room?

Click to expand...

So now it comes out green using either native or setting D65?

Due to metamerism issues wide gamut can sometimes look a bit (but nothing radical) greener. Comparing to real world test charts, to my eyes, the wide gamut tint actually seemed a bit more realistic than the pinker standard gamut tint.

If it is jump out as you green even not comparing it directly to a standard gamut monitor then something weird seems like it's going on.

Does it just seem green on the desktop or also for images being color-managed in photoshop? (it might be that it's native white point is quite green, TN panels they often are not too careful about things, so the desktop might look green)

Also what program did you use to calibrate and profile it with? And did you make sure to tell the probes that it is wide gamut? Also the backlight matters too. Did you tell it that too? (also usually wide gamut monitors are RGB LED or GBr LED or WCCFL and not WLED, maybe it is WhiteLED backlight standard gamut? Or it's wide gamut but not WLED?) If told the wrong monitor type it can give some bad results.

bronxbombers4 said:

godlyatheist said:

Laptop monitor, AUO B156HW01 v4. It's a wide gamut TN panel used in the Thinkpad W530. I think the back light is WLED, not sure.

Repeated the calibration with native white point and it came out green again, using the "good" profile right now. Do I need to do it in a dark room?

Click to expand...

So now it comes out green using either native or setting D65?

Due to metamerism issues wide gamut can sometimes look a bit (but nothing radical) greener. Comparing to real world test charts, to my eyes, the wide gamut tint actually seemed a bit more realistic than the pinker standard gamut tint.

If it is jump out as you green even not comparing it directly to a standard gamut monitor then something weird seems like it's going on.

Does it just seem green on the desktop or also for images being color-managed in photoshop? (it might be that it's native white point is quite green, TN panels they often are not too careful about things, so the desktop might look green)

Also what program did you use to calibrate and profile it with? And did you make sure to tell the probes that it is wide gamut? Also the backlight matters too. Did you tell it that too? (also usually wide gamut monitors are RGB LED or GBr LED or WCCFL and not WLED, maybe it is WhiteLED backlight standard gamut? Or it's wide gamut but not WLED?) If told the wrong monitor type it can give some bad results.

Click to expand...

I will try the calibration again. It appears green compared to the uncalibrated screen, even with the "good" profile it has a very slight hint of green. Most of the attempts produced colors that are very green, anyone can tell something's wrong. I deleted the "bad" profiles so I have to get another one to compare the desktop and photoshop. All the calibration are done with the i1 profiler that came with the meter. I'm actually unsure on what kind of backlight the panel has, since both WLED and RG phosphor gave the same results. The spec sheet for the panel is here. On the first page the notes say "R,G phosphor LED Backlight with driving circuit design" but all the other places say WLED. Here is a review of the panel by Anandtech.

Here are some result:

Attempt 1:

LED: RG Phosphor

White point: measured

Results: green-gray tint, very bad if the screen is vertical and viewed straight on, better if viewed from above. The color shift is very noticeable as my head moves

Attempt 2:

LED: RG Phosphor

White point: D65

Results: green tint, very bad if the screen is vertical and viewed straight on. If I look down at an extremely small angle, the whites are white.

Attempt 3

LED: RG Phosphor

White point: native

Results: white looks white regardless of angle.

I saw that the measured white temperature was about 10500k(was measured with the ambient diffuser on, i don't understand why it does it), D65 says it achieved 6500K, Native was 74000k.

results from attempt 3

Average dE: Tolerance 15, Measured 11.93

Max dE: Tolerance 50, Measured 18.47

Is it pointless to calibrate my display because the quality is too bad? When I compare the uncalibrated profile the "good" one, I can tell the uncalibrated one looks dull. However, I can't seem to get either the i1 nor the spyder to work. I think I'm cursed lol.

Chris Noble said:

godlyatheist said:

Just tried it out. It appears that I have to set the white point to Native instead of 6500K, else I get a strong green tint like the Spyder4Pro I tried last year. Does any one know why this is?

Click to expand...

Using the native White Point just means that the monitor RGB gains are set to 100% and all of the adjustments are done from the LUT. Setting a color-corrected white point means you first set the end-point of the LUT transfer function using the RGB gains.

If you are programming a 10+ bit monitor LUT, it does not matter. If you are programming an 8-bit video driver LUT, I'd set the white point on the monitor and then profile it.

Click to expand...

To the helpful tech guys:

Would you mind dumbing this down for someone who is using a monitor calibration tool for the first time (having only used the Windows built in calibration approximator prior)? I have a Dell u2713HM, and its 8-bit, and I used these settings in the X-Rite i1 Display Pro (in advanced mode, which I had to use to get ICC version 2 profiles, instead of version 4 -- because Windows Photo Viewer isn't compatible with version 4):

White point - CIE Illuminant D65
Luminance - 120 cd/mm
Contrast ratio - Native
Measure and adjust for flare - No
Ambient Light control - No
Chromatic adaptation - Bradford
ICC profile version - 2
Tone response curve - Standard
Gamma - 2.20
Profile type - Matrix

Do you think this makes sense? If I had done Factory Resets on the Monitor, then Calibrated it just 1 day prior using Version 4 ICC profile, and then recalibrated at Version 2 ICC profile, do you think it is OK? Or will my white points, etc, be off?

Any advice?

To the OP:

I just bought the i1 Display Pro as well from B&H and mine also says "Part of bundled solution. Not for individual sale." HOWEVER, I'm assuming that either they ran out of stock & had to break up bundled stock to meet demand -- or they broke up bundled stock because part of the system wasn't in demand. Either way, the i1 Display Pro itself works perfectly and is in tact and complete. And at a great price by the way (1 day sale at $150 vs. normal $250), maybe because they were breaking up bundles, haha.

P.S. If you are using a Windows system with the X-rite Display Pro, you should use "advanced mode" to get a Version 2 ICC profile, if you want to use "Windows Photo Viewer" for previews, otherwise it will look like crap if you use the default Version 4 ICC profile.

--
Sincerely,
GlobalGuy

GlobalGuyUSA said:

White point - CIE Illuminant D65

Luminance - 120 cd/mm
Contrast ratio - Native
Measure and adjust for flare - No
Ambient Light control - No
Chromatic adaptation - Bradford
ICC profile version - 2
Tone response curve - Standard
Gamma - 2.20
Profile type - Matrix

Click to expand...

OK

GlobalGuyUSA said:

Do you think this makes sense? If I had done Factory Resets on the Monitor, then Calibrated it just 1 day prior using Version 4 ICC profile, and then recalibrated at Version 2 ICC profile, do you think it is OK? Or will my white points, etc, be off?

Click to expand...

If you change any value in the monitor, have to calibrate again.

GlobalGuyUSA said:

Any advice?

Click to expand...

The best way to calibrate the U2713HM is to use the Custom Color Mode.

Thank you.

I think I will stick with the Native white point. Every other white point doesn't seem to work.