Sad saga continues with Pentax AF

You left SR on didn't you Dennis?

You would have been stop/start Panning following the action, the SR would have been turning on and off spooling up spooling down everything was in focus but you have massive blurr from a sensor going out of its mind.

SR is only for when you are holding the camera steady! ie slow shutter & long lenses.

--

Regards Dean - Capturing Creation
N.B. All my Images are Protected by Copyright
Dean,

I'm betting on AF switched to off...but we'll never know. Dennis is apparently too good a photog to show us some examples with exif.

Daryl
 
Actually I thought of that last night too Daryl - it could have been bumped to off when holding the lens. It is either that or SR on.

It is disappointing that Dennis will not post photos with exif so we can help him.





8318c3a95fbb4465b6dfddc27d8e892b.jpg



Soccer is not hard to shoot.



--
Regards Dean - Capturing Creation
N.B. All my Images are Protected by Copyright
 
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Enough of blaming the user every time an issue is reported without ever reading the content of the post.

It is the lens. You may add me to the list of people with an issue with their SDM lens.

Yes, yes, yes, I tried turning off SR, one frame, AF-S, center focus and still every image is blurry from the 60-250. My guess is the camera tells the lens how much to move, and it moves incorrectly.

Other lenses don't have this issue. So, this means that eventually my 50-135 SDM will go brick also.
 
Enough of blaming the user every time an issue is reported without ever reading the content of the post.

It is the lens. You may add me to the list of people with an issue with their SDM lens.

Yes, yes, yes, I tried turning off SR, one frame, AF-S, center focus and still every image is blurry from the 60-250. My guess is the camera tells the lens how much to move, and it moves incorrectly.

Other lenses don't have this issue. So, this means that eventually my 50-135 SDM will go brick also.
Interesting. This also doesn't fit with the "regular" SDM issues (which is, SDM motor seizing and the lens being unable to focus).

Alex
 
OK

1 Clean Lens Contacts with isopropal alcohol

2 Is it free to turn in manual mode?

3 Is it a new lens just purchased?

4 If it is free to turn manually does it just need fine focus adjust on camera? ie if it is AF ing.
 
Might be an idea to stick with one or at most 2 systems instead of five or six. That way, you could better understand (though greater experience) what is going wrong.
 
Dear Dennis Tennis,

Okay so i understand your check the first ' 400 ' images, and 1 out of 10, or 2 in 10 in perfect focus? Then you take another batch, none of which are in focus. Did you not review these? If after the first few images i thought the focus was off i would recheck all my settings. Yet you managed to take 400 images with barely a sharp image in them and weren't concerned enough?

Thanks

Broken Hill
I don't find the rear LCD good enough for focus checking. that's me.

You do realize that I've taken pictures before right?
We must have seriously different vision and thats entirely possible, i can check focus on the screen in less than a second in most cases, it just takes 1 bump of the dial and i'm at 100% checking it more critically for a second or less then I tap the shutter and am back to shooting. there is more than enough detail for me to see if focus is right or not or for that matter if there are other issues.
 
Enough of blaming the user every time an issue is reported without ever reading the content of the post.

It is the lens. You may add me to the list of people with an issue with their SDM lens.

Yes, yes, yes, I tried turning off SR, one frame, AF-S, center focus and still every image is blurry from the 60-250. My guess is the camera tells the lens how much to move, and it moves incorrectly.

Other lenses don't have this issue. So, this means that eventually my 50-135 SDM will go brick also.
Interesting. This also doesn't fit with the "regular" SDM issues (which is, SDM motor seizing and the lens being unable to focus).

Alex
I agree it doesn't fit, that doesn't mean its not the problem however SDM or screw drive if i'm not getting proper focus i stop before shooting 400 bad shots.
 
"I"m not asking for help. I'm posting to say that this is another example of the underwhelming AF abilities of the Pentax system."

There. I just summed up the entire thread.
 
I usually avoid posting in the threads like this one, where the voices are raised and expressions of disbelief are uttered, but my yesterday's experience may be relevant to the problem described in the OP. I've been using a DA*60-250 (mounted on K30, not K3 unfortunately :-)) for about a month almost daily and it was performing without problem until yesterday (and I really like its optical quality). Yesterday, when I turned the camera on, it simply refused to focus. An attempt at autofocusing (pressing backside AF button as usual) was producing a brief sound of the SDM motor (not loud but audible) and a tiny jerk of the distance scale, but no real attempt at focusing. The same behaviour with AF-S and AF-C. Turning the camera off and on, and dismounting and mounting the lens made no difference. Furthermore (and I think this is important), I could not focus manually: moving the focusing ring in either direction was, again, producing only a little jerk of the distance scale. Again, manual focusing was impossible irrespective of the setting: AF or MF switch on the lens, and AF-S, AF-C or MF on the camera (and since this lens has a Quick Shift feature, the MF should be always available). I noticed, however, that with MF position selected on both the lens and the camera, the distance scale was moving a bit more. So I turned the focusing ring back and forth several times, and suddenly the distance scale movement was resumed, and so did AF! I used the lens later on that day, and it didn't show any signs of the problem.

From this I have to conclude that the focusing gear of DA*60-250 can sometimes get sticky, and this can be an intermittent problem. I don't know whether Dennis experienced the same problem, but the symptoms look similar. I also don't know whether this is related to the SDM behavior, but my guess that it is not, because MF was also affected. Finally it is unclear how frequently this problem occurs (and hence how significant it is), but one occurrence is enough to demonstrate that it is possible.

Some background information:

1) The lens was bought new about a month ago, it was on pre-order so obviously just shipped from the manufacturer. So it is unlikely to be one of the "old new" items that was sitting on the shelf for years.

2) The lens is under warranty. If the problem shows up again, I'll send the lens for tuning/repair.
 
Some filters can cause problems of this sort. Last year I tried to use a polarising filter with my newly acquired DA 18-135 and I could not get a sharp shot until I removed it.
Ah, polarizing filters... I had been wondering for a long time why my images were all of a sudden all blurry when I found out that they would be tack sharp with the filter removed. It wasn't the cheapest filter, either.

(and yes, the filter was clean!)

(oh, and the lens was also a DA 18-135)
Some filters work with AF, some dont.
 
Just so you know focus priority in AF-C has never really worked on any Pentax, its a joke really, a bad one! however for that much failure as you describe the only logical conclusions are poor photographic technique which could be a wide range of things including not know how the camera responds which is pretty obvious with you thinking focus priority in AF-C works. other possibilities have been posted and there are even more things this issue can be... Another issue with SR is if you are too trigger happy and fire before it spools up you can ruin the who burst of photos, when not panning the SR takes approx 0.6 sec to spool, it only takes an estimated 0.07 sec for the average person to press the trigger if the subject looks in focus. now despite the many possible user errors there is one other issue and that is either your lens or your camera are faulty. My bet is on user error, likely something you just didn't know about.

--
Mike from Canada
"I am not a great photographer! God is a great creator! All I do is capture His creation with the tools He has provided me."
'I like to think so far outside the box that it would require a telephoto lens just to see the box!' ~ 'My Quote :)'
http://www.michaelfastphotography.com/galleries/VP-BDI_3a.jpg
http://www.airliners.net/search/[email protected]&thumbnails=
And to amplify on the way Dean went about this, JUST BECAUSE THE OP is a pro, or close to it and/or just because he shoots with ALL the major camera brands, STILL DOESN'T MEAN he's necessarily using the K-3 (or other Pentax cameras) properly to obtain the best exposures and/or focus out of THEM.

That may look like some sort of "fanboy nonsense," but it's not. What it IS is a recognition of two facts:

1. None of us (including Pentax) would be here were Pentax cameras and lenses not highly regarded

2. Pentax has ALWAYS been a bit quirky and tended to do some things differently than do other camera makers. One easy example of this is the so-called "Hyper-Program" or TAv mode on Pentax cameras, which goes back as far as at least the PZ1 I bought back more than 20 years ago. So far as I know, NOBODY ELSE has ever made a camera that would allow you to simultaneously adjust EITHER the aperture OR the shutter speed, depending on which of two dials you turn with your thumb or forefinger, and, of course these days you can change BOTH as you wish, with ISO having to adapt (something the FILM PZ1 couldn't do, since the ISO was a factor SET by the film -- although it allowed you to bypass the film ISO to some extent, if you wanted to push it).

What this comes down to is, for instance, the talk about both the SR affecting AF on AF-C, and also that when using center-priority, with 5-sensor, that area can very well be TOO BIG for the subject size you're shooting a lot of the time, thus causing the camera to either back-focus, or attempt to say TWO areas are in focus, which I would agree is an error. A better way to ensure you always have focus is to make it CENTER SPOT, although then, depending on the focal plane and F-stop, parts of the image could be OOF, as well. Going the other way, with the 27-point may work well, also. I think that middle-of-the-road 5-spot is too tricky for a lot of situations.

Just my two cents.

Jeff

--
A word is worth 1/1000th of a picture... Maybe that's why I use so many
 
I usually avoid posting in the threads like this one, where the voices are raised and expressions of disbelief are uttered, but my yesterday's experience may be relevant to the problem described in the OP. I've been using a DA*60-250 (mounted on K30, not K3 unfortunately :-)) for about a month almost daily and it was performing without problem until yesterday (and I really like its optical quality). Yesterday, when I turned the camera on, it simply refused to focus. An attempt at autofocusing (pressing backside AF button as usual) was producing a brief sound of the SDM motor (not loud but audible) and a tiny jerk of the distance scale, but no real attempt at focusing. The same behaviour with AF-S and AF-C. Turning the camera off and on, and dismounting and mounting the lens made no difference. Furthermore (and I think this is important), I could not focus manually: moving the focusing ring in either direction was, again, producing only a little jerk of the distance scale. Again, manual focusing was impossible irrespective of the setting: AF or MF switch on the lens, and AF-S, AF-C or MF on the camera (and since this lens has a Quick Shift feature, the MF should be always available). I noticed, however, that with MF position selected on both the lens and the camera, the distance scale was moving a bit more. So I turned the focusing ring back and forth several times, and suddenly the distance scale movement was resumed, and so did AF! I used the lens later on that day, and it didn't show any signs of the problem.

From this I have to conclude that the focusing gear of DA*60-250 can sometimes get sticky, and this can be an intermittent problem. I don't know whether Dennis experienced the same problem, but the symptoms look similar. I also don't know whether this is related to the SDM behavior, but my guess that it is not, because MF was also affected. Finally it is unclear how frequently this problem occurs (and hence how significant it is), but one occurrence is enough to demonstrate that it is possible.

Some background information:

1) The lens was bought new about a month ago, it was on pre-order so obviously just shipped from the manufacturer. So it is unlikely to be one of the "old new" items that was sitting on the shelf for years.

2) The lens is under warranty. If the problem shows up again, I'll send the lens for tuning/repair
Shark,

I regret to inform you that you you must be like me. A non photographer and clearly Pentax is too complex for both you and I.

Sell your Pentax gear now!
 
Some filters can cause problems of this sort. Last year I tried to use a polarising filter with my newly acquired DA 18-135 and I could not get a sharp shot until I removed it.
Ah, polarizing filters... I had been wondering for a long time why my images were all of a sudden all blurry when I found out that they would be tack sharp with the filter removed. It wasn't the cheapest filter, either.

(and yes, the filter was clean!)

(oh, and the lens was also a DA 18-135)
Some filters work with AF, some dont.
--With phase detect AF if you remove effectively the vertical or the horizontal components of the light depending on it's rotation, it will "bother" the AF sensor to some extent, it surprises me it works at all!

Maybe expensive filters are worse because they polarize more effectively.


Dave's clichés
 
Dear Dennis Tennis,

Okay so i understand your check the first ' 400 ' images, and 1 out of 10, or 2 in 10 in perfect focus? Then you take another batch, none of which are in focus. Did you not review these? If after the first few images i thought the focus was off i would recheck all my settings. Yet you managed to take 400 images with barely a sharp image in them and weren't concerned enough?

Thanks

Broken Hill
I don't find the rear LCD good enough for focus checking. that's me.

You do realize that I've taken pictures before right?
We must have seriously different vision and thats entirely possible, i can check focus on the screen in less than a second in most cases, it just takes 1 bump of the dial and i'm at 100% checking it more critically for a second or less then I tap the shutter and am back to shooting. there is more than enough detail for me to see if focus is right or not or for that matter if there are other issues.
 
I think you've just discovered the difference between a linear polarizer and a circular one. It's the circular one that's required for consistent focusing with the PDAF system typical of SLRs. Unfortunately I don't remember the technical details.
 
OK

1 Clean Lens Contacts with isopropal alcohol

2 Is it free to turn in manual mode?

3 Is it a new lens just purchased?

4 If it is free to turn manually does it just need fine focus adjust on camera? ie if it is AF ing.

--
Regards Dean - Capturing Creation
N.B. All my Images are Protected by Copyright
First thing I thought of was dirty contacts, but nope. I've experience this before so even a non-photographer like me would know to check this.

Not a problem MF'ing. Everything work fine in MF. And, for that poster who thought I must have mistakenly turn it to MF... well, you know what I think about you. do you think that I'm stupid enough to not know if the lens in not AF'ing. It doesn AF, it just doesn't do it accurately.

No, used fromn B&H about a year ago. Don't use it much though. I have other lenses from other systems that covers this focal ranges.

I went out a second time today and tried my 50-135 SDM, and even with my not a real photographer skills, I was able to do fine with AF-C, hi FPS, central AF. Put the 60-250 back on and it started to miss, not completely, but a majoriity, even on very easy tracking scenario, a person slowly walking towards me. I guess, whenever I put on the 60-250 it sucks all the photography knowledge out of me. thank goodness, my skills come back when I switch to a different lens or a different system. whew!

I guess Pentax is just too advanced for me. I made the right decision to invest anymore money. The days of Pentax being suitable for beginners has long since faded into memory. Only a select few photographers are capable using Pentax now.
 
I went out a second time today and tried my 50-135 SDM, and even with my not a real photographer skills, I was able to do fine with AF-C, hi FPS, central AF. Put the 60-250 back on and it started to miss, not completely, but a majoriity, even on very easy tracking scenario, a person slowly walking towards me. I guess, whenever I put on the 60-250 it sucks all the photography knowledge out of me. thank goodness, my skills come back when I switch to a different lens or a different system. whew!

I guess Pentax is just too advanced for me. I made the right decision to invest anymore money. The days of Pentax being suitable for beginners has long since faded into memory. Only a select few photographers are capable using Pentax now.
Unfortunately, you are right.

In case of K-3 at least, the combination of settings to get a satisfactory result (to which one needs no brains to use to get a good result from another brand), is becoming mind boggling.

SR is one of the culprits, as the company should dismiss it straight away when AF-C is selected. End of story. I have stopped counting threads in this forum repeating this same issue which very experienced users of this forum attribute to the camera's owner "ignorance". But indeed, it goes against common sense for a manufacturer to allow a setting within a setting that causes more problems than not.

Same with regular NR noise applied. I have lost count on those threads as well. Again, on many occasions individuals were blamed, despite the fact that it took weeks to very experienced photographers here to figure out what is going on!

Add an AA filter to the mix, then this or that specific lens issue (SDM especially), etc. and one really wonders what is the right combo to get a proper shot!

The age of simple cameras from Pentax is gone. I strongly recommend you to switch all gizmos off, including the NR, SR, AA, etc. and let the camera become a simple Canon DSLR or whatever. Then you'll have only the SDM issue to care about :-)
 

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