On the beach

Andy Hewitt

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Been a busy few weeks here, along with poor weather, so been a while since I last got out with the camera.

Got a few today on a local beach (one I haven't visited before). Using the X-S1 of course, and mainly set to L size Raw, DR100 & ISO100. I also tried a few shots at Raw+JPEG M size DR400 for personal comparison.

Here's a few I took, all of these are L size DR100, ISO100.

e33cd41d5b934c689f0957cd46e6bca7.jpg

8a094e9ccb6841e281473e5111afbc2e.jpg

549c6610952c4361bf27d8f9f79bfac6.jpg

67073cc3958c4adb80f017bddd5862b6.jpg

b608dcf337e947928edb3097cf003aee.jpg

--
Andy Hewitt
Using FujiFilm X-S1 and Apple iMac 27" 3.2GHz
 
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Nice series. Last one is a cracker!

May I know the result of your personal comparison of MSize and LSize? =D

______________-=[ Joms ]=-____________
 
Nice series. Last one is a cracker!

May I know the result of your personal comparison of MSize and LSize? =D
Now now, let's have no stirring of the pot, otherwise I might be tempted to show you comparisons between the SX50 and ummm...
 
Nice series. Last one is a cracker!

May I know the result of your personal comparison of MSize and LSize? =D
Now now, let's have no stirring of the pot, otherwise I might be tempted to show you comparisons between the SX50 and ummm...
Oh better not start Bill coz I did not mention Sx50 here at all...

______________-=[ Joms ]=-____________
 
Nice series. Last one is a cracker!

May I know the result of your personal comparison of MSize and LSize? =D
Now now, let's have no stirring of the pot, otherwise I might be tempted to show you comparisons between the SX50 and ummm...
Oh better not start Bill coz I did not mention Sx50 here at all...
Only because your new X20 has taken the pressure off your precious, but reviving the M size vs L size comparisons is equally if not more toxic. I realize that you find it very hard to resist. :)
 
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Nice series. Last one is a cracker!

May I know the result of your personal comparison of MSize and LSize? =D
Not wishing to start another thread on this... My feeling was that neither setting offered any great advantage in any way, when shooting Raw. Observational only, I notice that the M size images are more grainy, and of course less able to be cropped (they're easy to hit the limitations of my monitor on a 27" iMac). Yea, there's more DR headroom, but then none of my L size DR100 shots were badly clipped anyway, and highlights were all good.

I find the X-S1, contrary to some comments (although I suspect it is the case when shooting JPEG), does not seem to readily clip highlights when left at 0.0ev in Raw mode.

I agree about the blue hue mentioned elsewhere, but that's easily sorted with Raws, and the 'Daylight' setting in LR fixes that when needed - and the new colour calibration profiles included in LR now (matching the Fuji 'film' settings) also does a very good job of correcting any colour issues (rather than leaving it to the Adobe default).

Anyway, I wasn't intending to restart the argument, I just tend to offer any technical information I can regarding my shooting decisions. As it happens, all my favoured shots happened to be L size ones.

--
Andy Hewitt
Using FujiFilm X-S1 and Apple iMac 27" 3.2GHz
 
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Andy, You're making photos as well as anyone on this forum, as I see it. I appreciate the way you can make photos from the X-S1 look. These are all beautiful.
 
I love to see your photo's Andy, and learn how you take them! Thank you.

--
KJ
 
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Nice series. Last one is a cracker!

May I know the result of your personal comparison of MSize and LSize? =D
Not wishing to start another thread on this... My feeling was that neither setting offered any great advantage in any way, when shooting Raw. Observational only, I notice that the M size images are more grainy, and of course less able to be cropped (they're easy to hit the limitations of my monitor on a 27" iMac). Yea, there's more DR headroom, but then none of my L size DR100 shots were badly clipped anyway, and highlights were all good.

I find the X-S1, contrary to some comments (although I suspect it is the case when shooting JPEG), does not seem to readily clip highlights when left at 0.0ev in Raw mode.

I agree about the blue hue mentioned elsewhere, but that's easily sorted with Raws, and the 'Daylight' setting in LR fixes that when needed - and the new colour calibration profiles included in LR now (matching the Fuji 'film' settings) also does a very good job of correcting any colour issues (rather than leaving it to the Adobe default).

Anyway, I wasn't intending to restart the argument, I just tend to offer any technical information I can regarding my shooting decisions. As it happens, all my favoured shots happened to be L size ones.
... My preference is L size, whether Jpeg or Raw, but the Raw output from either is very much dependent upon the converter used.

I no longer have a Mac but I have done a large number of comparisons on Fuji Raw files with many different converters and they all behave differently. Some good, some not so.

For the most part, I use PS/ACR but also use SilkyPix.
 
Thanks for sharing! The third one has interesting reflections and is my fave in the series... I would love to get a circular polariser to play with conditions such as that... do you use any filters on your X-S1?
 
Andy, You're making photos as well as anyone on this forum, as I see it. I appreciate the way you can make photos from the X-S1 look. These are all beautiful.
Thanks :-)
 
... My preference is L size, whether Jpeg or Raw, but the Raw output from either is very much dependent upon the converter used.

I no longer have a Mac but I have done a large number of comparisons on Fuji Raw files with many different converters and they all behave differently. Some good, some not so.

For the most part, I use PS/ACR but also use SilkyPix.
I use Lightroom, mainly because when I got the HS50 last year, it was the only one that processed Raws properly, with all others (RFC/Silkypix, RawTherapee etc.) unable to work well in some aspects - mostly unable to correct lens distortion. Now I stick with that, mainly to maintain a simple workflow, so that I can import, process, manage and export all from one application.
 
Yeah, I was actually expecting that, but I quite liked the effect that I got from this one, shooting through thick spray mist, using long telephoto, then processing to bring out the detail.
 
Thanks for sharing! The third one has interesting reflections and is my fave in the series... I would love to get a circular polariser to play with conditions such as that... do you use any filters on your X-S1?
You might want to check up, but IIRC circular polarisers don't work with digital sensors. I have used the adjustable linear ones though.

I don't have one for the X-S1 at the moment, but do have a Marumi UV filter attached to protect the lens in such conditions.
 
Thanks for sharing! The third one has interesting reflections and is my fave in the series... I would love to get a circular polariser to play with conditions such as that... do you use any filters on your X-S1?
You might want to check up, but IIRC circular polarisers don't work with digital sensors. I have used the adjustable linear ones though.

I don't have one for the X-S1 at the moment, but do have a Marumi UV filter attached to protect the lens in such conditions.
Andy: circular polarisers definitely work with digital sensors. I've played with one on a CCD and a DSLR before and if the light comes from the correct angle it's quite amazing how you can change the result.

I buy into the fact that a filter will protect the front glass of the X-S1 against scratches (I'm still looking for one that's affordable here), but I don't understand what you mean by "in such conditions". The glass (multiple lenses) of X-S1 should already block most UV.
 
Thanks for sharing! The third one has interesting reflections and is my fave in the series... I would love to get a circular polariser to play with conditions such as that... do you use any filters on your X-S1?
You might want to check up, but IIRC circular polarisers don't work with digital sensors. I have used the adjustable linear ones though.
They do work with digital sensors. The problem occurs with cameras having partially reflecting mirrors. With those, linear filters can cause metering problems, so circular filters are usually preferred for DSLRs. Either linear or circular polarizers should work with P&S and mirrorless cameras.

http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/technical/polarizers.html
 
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Thanks for sharing! The third one has interesting reflections and is my fave in the series... I would love to get a circular polariser to play with conditions such as that... do you use any filters on your X-S1?
You might want to check up, but IIRC circular polarisers don't work with digital sensors. I have used the adjustable linear ones though.

I don't have one for the X-S1 at the moment, but do have a Marumi UV filter attached to protect the lens in such conditions.
Andy: circular polarisers definitely work with digital sensors. I've played with one on a CCD and a DSLR before and if the light comes from the correct angle it's quite amazing how you can change the result.
I buy into the fact that a filter will protect the front glass of the X-S1 against scratches (I'm still looking for one that's affordable here), but I don't understand what you mean by "in such conditions". The glass (multiple lenses) of X-S1 should already block most UV.
Yes, that's why I install one too, the Marumi ones get very good reviews, and I've used a couple now. They seem OK to me, without any degradation to the IQ that I can tell.

'Such conditions' doesn't mean the UV, the coatings and the sensor do indeed cut UV nowadays. I meant the protective function against the elements I was near - i.e. sand and salty spray.

On a DSLR I can understand people not using them, as it can often be the weakest link, and you can always change the lens. On a fixed lens, you have an expensive repair, or a throwaway camera.
 

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