A steadying rig for vacation footage, example link provided, feedback wanted

The camera in the first video you linked is the Canon 5D Mk3 which does not shoot video faster than 60 fps in 720p mode. Almost ALL new video cameras can shoot 60 fps video.

I would strongly recommend that you purchase a P&C pistol-grip along with your FlyBoy-III stabilizer. This pistol-grip costs $20 and has no real learning curve, so you will be able to start using it right away. This grip makes a big difference when trying to shoot stable shots with camcorders and DSLR cameras. I highly recommend it.

I'm looking at a Panasonic HC-V720 or just using the Sony A6000 when it comes out.

I have a pistol grip already actually, can I use that in conjuction with a steadicam like the Flyboy III?





I dont really see how that would work.

dsiglin said:

I have a pistol grip already actually, can I use that in conjuction with a steadicam like the Flyboy III?

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Nope, but steadicams take longer to set-up and require lots of practice to get smooth shots, so the pistol-grip is a nice alternative when you want to just pick-up the camera and shoot. Especially with a camera with 5-axis stabilization built-in.

Yeah I realize 5 axis + Steadicam might seem like overkill but I wanted to make sure I had nice fluid video.
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Those shots look like 1/2 speed to me. So probably shot at 60fps and viewed at 30.

I don't think that in-camera stabilization is a replacement for a stabilization rig. In my experience in-camera stabilization is usually (almost) adequate for stabilizing a stationary hand-held shot - one where you're not moving, or at the most are panning while standing in one place. As soon as you start taking steps things get wobbly beyond the ability of the camera to correct. That's where external rigs come into their own.

I have a Steadicam Merlin and can attest to the challenge of learning how to use it. It really does take a lot of practice, and you can't expect to just roll off take after perfect take.

One issue with something like the HC-V720 is the fact that the LCD folds out to one side. That will unbalance the camera, and it doesn't look like the Flyboy III has a stage that can be adjusted left or right to correct that. I realize that the counterweight can be adjusted left or right, but I'm a little skeptical that you'll be able to get the rig into dynamic balance that way, and if there's one thing I've learned about the Merlin it's that dynamic balance is important.

But that's all just speculation. If I were you I'd try to find a forum where some of the participants have experience with the Flyboy III and can give you some feedback based on actual usage.

dsiglin said:

Two questions really. I'm going on vacation the beginning of June and want to take some basic walking, bicycling, car video. Some of this I'd like to shoot at higher framerates so I can have slow motion video. I found a video that illustrates about the speed I'm looking for (starting at 0:35)

http://vimeo.com/84148842

Or this: http://vimeo.com/90814897

First question: about what speed do you think that was shot at?

Second question: I'm looking at a Panasonic HC-V720 for it's 5 axis stabilization + a Flyboy III steadicam style rig. I want something unobtrusive but able to give smooth movements. I realize that steadicam style rigs like the Flyboy take time to master. I want to buy this in advance and practice. Do you think the HC-V720 with it's in-built stabilization and the Flyboy III would be a good, basic setup for decently steady video?

I'm open to suggestions. I looked at an Olympus E-M5 or E-M10 but it can't do 60 fps let alone 120 fps.

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I would recommend the brand new Panasonic HC-750v, which just arrived at B&H Photo yesterday. It records FULL HD 1080 at 120p, instead of only 720 HD. I also has a new control dial on the body.

Price is exactly the same as the HC-720v too:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1023343-REG/panasonic_hc_v750_full_hd_camcorder.html

No point in buying the HC-720v, when a newer and improved model is available at the same price. Initial owner reviews so far at Amazon UK have been very favorable for the HC-750v:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/product-rev.../277-1588512-4864251?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

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Thanks for pointing that out, definitely wouldn't make sense to buy one if they are the same price.

Thinking this over some more I would like to manual focus which I guess excludes the camcorders?

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[My flickr stream](http://www.flickr.com/photos/72447819@N02/)

I have used a Hague stabilizer, which is a virtual clone of the Flyboy III. Evidently no one tried to file a patent, or there may have been DIY precursors everywhere, thus making a patent difficult to sustain. Anyway, the design is alike in every way, except that maybe one uses a nylon interface for the gymbal, while another uses polished metal, and maybe a high-end one uses ball bearings.

All work, provided:

1. You carefully tune the weights and position of the camera to achieve balance near perfection. This will vary according to the camera, plus the size of the battery, or whether the LCD flipped out or not. The pivot at the bottom can be adjusted to offset changes in lateral weight. You could reduce the time required by scoring lines on the metal that correspond to prior successes, but the camera will still require some delicate fiddling to get the axis just right. By the time you things are all set, and with a little luck, perhaps the shooting opportunity won't have passed, and you won't look like an idiot fussing over some incomprehensible contraption.
2. You practice assorted tracking techniques to a level of choreographic high art.
3. Air resistance or breeze don't cause insuperable wobble or drift in the camera's direction. A big lens or extended LCD act as a sort of sail or drag flap.
4. You don't have to change direction, since momentum will cause the rig to stay on the original course.
5. You have a very limber thumb to offset the air friction or momentum issues.
6. You accept, as a trade-off for elimination of walking jog or shake, a little bit of slow pendular motion.
7. You don't scare people with the odd device, or your choreographic antics, so much that people don't become unnatural or dial 911.
8. Your audience does not tire of the tracking shots (and with indifference to stabilization) too fast to make the effort worthwhile.
9. You forget about careful shot framing, since you need to use your eyes and sense of locomotor coordination to keep from falling over, bumping into stuff, or tripping on objects.

#9 is a serious matter, since most tracking is done at a rather short distance from your subject, and hardly anything other than a GoPro will shoot at wide enough an angle to avoid cutting off people's heads or missing your target.

#8 is a real issue, since the most effective tracking shots people remember from movies employed cranes or jibs on track dollies or motor vehicles with rubber tires. Or they remember dramatic chases in fantasy worlds that existed only in digital animation. Or the audience will not be impressed by how steady the shot was (whether of their frumpy fronts or bulging behinds) if they don't resemble the Hollywood stars or Olympic athletes we all know we are supposed to resemble.

The brushless gyro mounts are clever, but expensive, a chore to set up, heavy, and obtrusive to use: "You got a paid permit to use that there machine? Let me see your automatic weapons license."

Guessed why Balanced Optical Steadyshot or 5-axis stabilization are such wonderful things?

Hah, that's quite a long list of what to look forward to. I'm using this for vacation video, I just want some nice settings shots of the various places I visit with some fly throughs of piazzas and like places.

dsiglin said:

Hah, that's quite a long list of what to look forward to.

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It's a pretty realistic list, IMHO. It should give you an idea of what you're getting yourself into.

Ok so tried a Flycam Nano and decided it's intrusive for what I want to do: capture brief video snapshots of my vacation. So I am starting to look at handheld camcorders that have good image stabilization. The Panasonic V520 and V550 seem like good options. Any thoughts?

What's your budget?

well I am going to buy used and resell after I get back from vacation but I don't want to spend a lot on it. I was looking in the 400-500 range. The Panasonic I mentioned is $350.

dsiglin said:

Ok so tried a Flycam Nano and decided it's intrusive for what I want to do: capture brief video snapshots of my vacation. So I am starting to look at handheld camcorders that have good image stabilization. The Panasonic V520 and V550 seem like good options. Any thoughts?

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I don't have experience with those cameras so I can't offer any opinions.

But I think it's important to understand what these things can and can't do. You can expect in-camera stabilization systems to do a decent job of stabilizing video that you shoot while standing still. In order words, static shots or shots where you're twisting your body so as to pan and following a moving subject. This is assuming that you make an effort to hold the camera as steadily as possible.

But as soon as you take your first step and try to take a shot where the camera is moving through a scene, expect that the stabilization system will fall short of what's needed to produce smooth, stable footage.

If you buy a camera with this understanding then you'll be less likely to be disappointed with the results.