Sutter Shock? Pictures from the holy land.

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As I posted elsewere, I never had troubles with my pre-firmware update E-M1.

SO...

After the update I've put the camera on tripod. I shot 18 frames, from 1/60 sec downward to 1/320, alternating the same speed with "Anti Shock 0 sec." and "Anti Shock Off".

Looking at the files at 100%, every one with AS Off had a small but noticeable blur.

My conclusion:

1- SS existed.

2- Firmware update eliminated it

3- My shots are good now as they were before.
 
and some just see swirls in the bread. From your lack of a guess we can safely conclude that you haven't a clue which shots were taken with Anti-Shock set to (0) and which with Anti-Shock set to OFF.
Who cares. Testing at cute little focal lengths and then concluding that shutter shock is a non-issue is laughable. Literally. I don't see it in those circumstances either.

Put a long lens on your camera (150mm+) and then do some methodical testing. Tripod, hand-held, whatever. Otherwise you are, having not seen the clearest examples of the phenomenon, quite simply ill-equipped to engage in any useful discussion about it.
 
As I posted elsewere, I never had troubles with my pre-firmware update E-M1.

SO...

After the update I've put the camera on tripod. I shot 18 frames, from 1/60 sec downward to 1/320, alternating the same speed with "Anti Shock 0 sec." and "Anti Shock Off".

Looking at the files at 100%, every one with AS Off had a small but noticeable blur.

My conclusion:

1- SS existed.

2- Firmware update eliminated it

3- My shots are good now as they were before.
 
I have a video of the E-PL5 shutter at 1,000 fps and there's a huge amount of bounce as the initial shutter closure happens, also I have made audio recording of the noise the mechanism makes and there's plenty of vibration going on that carries over into the exposure period. I showed those in a recent shock thread, but no time right now to find the links again. You just have to believe.

In my case though I have not noticed any shock results but then I do not go looking for them. I now mostly use the 12-40mm on my E-PL5 and I am sure that helps dampen any shock problems due to the extra mass.
In fact the E-PL5, which I had briefly, had indeed a vibration problem which affected it between 1/100 and 1/200, but it was v. visible, and it was documented almost immediately. I don't notice it with the PM1 which should have the same shutter generation, so perhaps O. cured it.

The E-M5 never had it, in fact it has the gentlest shutter by comparison. Vibrations are always possible, and have been for half a century since the actuations became much harder than the sweet Compurs.

Of course it's the generalizing that is stupid, not mentioning the exceptions. If vibrations ruined the shot at all times, a camera maker might as well kill himself :)

Instead it v. easy to ruin a shot with a light mirrorless camera, despite the IBIS, for not holding it well, or having the shakes, but what deepens the stupidity, is that I have never seen anybody accepting user error. That's human nature, but stupidity nevertheless. So to me the whole debate is flawed.

Am.

See my new blog in the sign: it's fun!

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'Photo & Poetry'
http://amalric2014.blogspot.it/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/amalric
To me, there are 2 main groups in this SS debate, and they are not just the simple 'SS believers' and 'SS deniers'.

1º group: 'I have SS, i am not doing anything wrong, you surely have it too, you just don't know how to search for it'

2º group: 'I don't have it, i know how to search for it, you surelly don't have too, you just don't know how to old a camera'

This is almost polarized in this two almost fanatic groups when for me, there are at least 4 groups:

1 - People that really have SS

2 - Peolple that really don't have SS

3 - People that think they have SS but just don't know how to old a camera

4 - People that think they don't have SS but just don't know how to search for it (or don't care for it)

I conced that at least this 4 groups exist. Extremists positions such as: "if i see it/don't see it, you must/must not also" don't cut it for me.

Sample variation in cameras DOES exist. Is that so hard to believe?

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/53439799
Does sample variation exist?

Most likely, yes.

Does this help explain why people come to different conclusions?

Most likely, yes.

Is there such a thing as an MFT camera perfectly free from shutter shock when used in conjunction with the purely mechanical shutter present on all such cameras hitherto produced except the GM1?

Most likely, no. If you answer yes to this question, you are claiming that Newton's third law of motion is invalid. I am not willing to make that claim.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newton's_laws_of_motion
Of course there is no perfectly SS free camera, in absolute terms
Right.
even the earth rotation would make it impossible.
The rotation of the earth doesn't preclude the existance of an SS-free camera. When a purely electronic shutter is used, the camera is SS-free.
I'm speeking in practical terms, i concede that some cameras (no ideia if the majority or minority) have so little SS that in practical terms it's irrelevant, although you can barelly see it in 100% crops, it's so insignificant that don't matters.
It is certainly possible to find equipment combinations such that SS is likely to be practically insignificant even to discerning users. But this is not just a matter of sample variation. At 300 mm, the effect is likely to be significant no matter what.
Of course this is highly subjective, what's pin sharp to some might be unbearable soft to others. But for your reference, i'm not ok with this level of SS for instance: http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/53439799
Exactly.
And generally, most of the demonstration of SS i see here are within these parameters (believing they are well done).

If i have a (for me) pin sharp image at 1/320 with 40mm i expect also at 1/250 or 1/200.
Not sure I follow you here. With my E-M5, I don't expect to see much blur due to shutter shock at 1/320 whereas I do expect to see at least a little bit at 1/200 if the FL is sufficiently long, and even more if I go down to 1/100 or 1/125.
I just retested mine and even at 12mm!! and 25mm with 1/200 gives me SS, not anymore with AS-0s ;)
This is perfectly in line with my hopes as well as expectations.
 
And generally, most of the demonstration of SS i see here are within these parameters (believing they are well done).

If i have a (for me) pin sharp image at 1/320 with 40mm i expect also at 1/250 or 1/200.
Not sure I follow you here. With my E-M5, I don't expect to see much blur due to shutter shock at 1/320 whereas I do expect to see at least a little bit at 1/200 if the FL is sufficiently long, and even more if I go down to 1/100 or 1/125.
I find that with 40mm long (as i said) i should have almost undistinguishable images from 1/200 to 1/320. Of course if i have a 150mm i expect differences.
 
If you use a too-light or poor quality tripod, QR, or do not bolt it all together securely? Yes it IS user error.
See the thing is that now we have things like full electronic and electronic first curtain shutter options, in many circumstances we can get away with using lighter and more portable tripods than we could before. The same lighter and more portable tripods that we've always been able to use with other cameras (even of similar weight) with greater success in the troublesome shutter speed range.

So you can have your fun carrying on about "user error" while others enjoy tangible benefits.
 
"Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence"

FWIW I did my own tests with my kit indoors under carefully controlled conditions, and I am satisfied I know under what conditions it occurs, and how severe it is.

So far as iI am concerned it is just another factor to be (occasionally) considered when shooting, along with the limitations of an electronic shutter, for example.

Dave
 
What is the point of denying the existence of possible small blur due to shutter vibrations at certain shutterspeeds?

I'm curious to know your motivations?
I can answer that, if not for all, then for many of them. Because they haven't had any other choice. I have tested my GX7 and it is a bit sharper with E shutter on. Do i care that my shots are a smidge softer when choose to use M shutter? Hell no, because i have an alternative that will fix it and i rarely have to use M shutter. Olympus users don't have that option, and it sucks to have to admit you are stuck with a flaw. Some are more open minded and those are the ones praising the new FW addition. It's no different than the guy who claims his 6 year old camera has noise performance that's just as good as the new gear. People tend to discredit the flaws that threaten the value of their investment.
And another question : why do you think Olmypus did include the 0s antischock option in E-M1s FW 1.3?
Another easy answer. BC shutter shock is real. :-D

--
"Run to the light, Carol Anne. Run as fast as you can!"
Olympus has already a very effective feature on the E-P5 and E -M1, called short shutter lag. Shutter shock may be real, but definitely suppressed when this feature is activated. I have ran a test with my E-P5 in the range of 1/80 to 1/400 in 1/3 increments, and all the images are pin sharp.

When I test my E-M1 with anti shock set to 0, the sound and vibration levels are no different from when the short shutter lag is enabled. Makes me wonder.

--
My nickel, since the penny is now discontinued...
Jeff.
What you need to do to test this is first find a reproducible set of circumstances that do show shutter shock with Release Lag-Time set to Normal. Then set Release Lag-Time to Short and repeat the test. If the first set of images show more blur than the second, you will have shown something. If that is actually what you did with the E-P5, great!
I never experienced SS, so the test was to confirm that my camera was giving me good results. I only shot with SSL enabled ( which is my default setting)

My humble test
To me, those images don't look very sharp, although the 1/400 sec looks sharpest even though it as at Iso 3200. The lack of sharpness may be the box printing itself. Or shutter shock. Or something else.

If there is a known issue with this lens, I would suggest that you repeat the test on the E-M1 with and without 0 sec shutter lag. If you use a target with very fine lines (finer than the letters on your cereal boxes), it is easier to see any blur when present. You tend to see a double line rather than a soft edge. Also, compare it to the E-P5. Both 16mp sensors should give similar results. If 0 sec shutter lag improves your image sharpness on the E-M1, I would suggest that it demonstrates shutter shock.

I would be interested to hear your conclusions.
I did this test when I first heard that Release Lag-Time set to Short improved shutter shock but I found no improvement in the circumstances that I tested(E-M1 + 45-175 @ 175mm, 6m focus distance, shutter 1/160).

Just taking a series of shots and saying that they are sharp doesn't show anything.
I tested it with the 45/1.8, which was being touted as the culprit. Either my camera or my technique makes a difference, i don't know. But it works for me.

--
My nickel, since the penny is now discontinued...
Jeff.
 
I have no ideia if that is the reason, but someone sugested that the EM5 and EP5 shutters just go to 1/4000 instead of 1/8000, and the extra acceleration was reponsible for more SS turning it visible in the images. Really can't confirm that.
E-P5 shutter goes to 1/8000. Probably the same mechanism as the E-M1.
 
What is the point of denying the existence of possible small blur due to shutter vibrations at certain shutterspeeds?

I'm curious to know your motivations?
I can answer that, if not for all, then for many of them. Because they haven't had any other choice. I have tested my GX7 and it is a bit sharper with E shutter on. Do i care that my shots are a smidge softer when choose to use M shutter? Hell no, because i have an alternative that will fix it and i rarely have to use M shutter. Olympus users don't have that option, and it sucks to have to admit you are stuck with a flaw. Some are more open minded and those are the ones praising the new FW addition. It's no different than the guy who claims his 6 year old camera has noise performance that's just as good as the new gear. People tend to discredit the flaws that threaten the value of their investment.
And another question : why do you think Olmypus did include the 0s antischock option in E-M1s FW 1.3?
Another easy answer. BC shutter shock is real. :-D
 
I have no ideia if that is the reason, but someone sugested that the EM5 and EP5 shutters just go to 1/4000 instead of 1/8000, and the extra acceleration was reponsible for more SS turning it visible in the images. Really can't confirm that.
E-P5 shutter goes to 1/8000. Probably the same mechanism as the E-M1.
 
I now HAVE the 1,3 FW and will try some tests when it is next light - Winter is coming here ... I will however use my sturdiest tripod and head.
Put a long lens on your camera or you are wasting your time. And everyone elses too.
If I use one of the flimsier ones, then I am not making sufficient effort.
Wrong. If your intent is to actually reveal the shape of the issue and then determine to what extent and in what circumstances it might effect you, then you should begin with a worst case scenario (but a real scenario that you could conceivably find yourself in). After I became cognizant of the shutter shock issue myself I put my E-M5 + Oly 75-300 on a light tripod that had been set up on soft grass and fired off a bunch of test shots with different anti-shock settings at full tele. This is, potentially, a real shooting situation because if I'm forced to carry a heavier more stable tripod around, or wander all over the place looking for the most stable surface to set up on while I watch my subject matter fly away, I think I'd rather stay at home. And what I learned helped me to effectively work around an issue (albeit with certain caveats) instead of remaining an occasional victim of it.
 
From your lack of a guess we can safely conclude that you haven't a clue which shots were taken with Anti-Shock set to (0) and which with Anti-Shock set to OFF.
There is absolutely no reason for any rational person to waste time looking at your images. If you think differently, please let us know what you think those reasons might be.
 
And generally, most of the demonstration of SS i see here are within these parameters (believing they are well done).

If i have a (for me) pin sharp image at 1/320 with 40mm i expect also at 1/250 or 1/200.
Not sure I follow you here. With my E-M5, I don't expect to see much blur due to shutter shock at 1/320 whereas I do expect to see at least a little bit at 1/200 if the FL is sufficiently long, and even more if I go down to 1/100 or 1/125.
I find that with 40mm long (as i said) i should have almost undistinguishable images from 1/200 to 1/320. Of course if i have a 150mm i expect differences.
What I had difficulties following was only your inference from shots at 1/320 to shots at 1/250 or 1/200. If you have actually verified that you get perfectly sharp results at all three shutter speeds, then everything is of course just fine. However, it is certainly possible as well as likely that the amount of blur due to SS increases as you go from 1/320 to 1/200 and 40 mm is certainly not an FL where significant blur due to SS is inconceivable.
 
SIr,
If you use a too-light or poor quality tripod, QR, or do not bolt it all together securely? Yes it IS user error.
That's not an answer to the question I asked. So let me repeat it:

Can the user be blamed for holding the camera wrongly even when he/she doesn't hold the camera?

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/53412887

http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/artnov12/dw-SonyNEX5N.html

Let me add another question:

Those two tests show that images shot with an electronic first curtain shutter are sharper than those shot with a purely mechanical shutter. Why is that?
I also wonder if increasing lens sharpness makes visible that which was not before. Anyway, show me one of mine (as I KNOW the test conditions) where this is visible. I described my methodology in the OP,
Your methods are inappropriate in a large number of ways. They are also insufficiently as well as incorrectly described.
and for hand-held snaps I judge the sharpness to be completely acceptable.
What you personally find acceptable has nothing whatsoever to do with the objective existence of blur due to shutter shock.
If I get weekend time off from other activities, including shooting for fun and profit, maybe calibrating my pano head for some of the new lenses, etc. I might attach the 75 and tripod mount it as some suggest and look for < 2 pixels total blur in the shots.
I'm playing with the new firmware now, interesting to see if it affects me.
Feel free to spend your weekend as you see fit. As long as you don't confuse your activities with anything worth calling a test, everything is fine.
 
So how did I do on a rather short focal length + moderate ISO + NR induced test?
 
I have no ideia if that is the reason, but someone sugested that the EM5 and EP5 shutters just go to 1/4000 instead of 1/8000, and the extra acceleration was reponsible for more SS turning it visible in the images. Really can't confirm that.
E-P5 shutter goes to 1/8000. Probably the same mechanism as the E-M1.

--
My nickel, since the penny is now discontinued...
Jeff.
You are right of course, i made confusion with the EPL5.
The fact that the E-P5 and the E-M1 go to 1/8000 rather than 1/4000 is of no importance per se. The higher max speed might theoretically be accomplished by using a more narrow slit.

What might matter, however, is that the E-P5 and E-M1 both have a higher flash sync speed than earlier Oly bodies. This in turn implies that the shutter blades move at higher speed, thereby involving stronger forces (if the blades are equally heavy), which might increase the likelihood of significant blur due to shutter shock.

Note, however, that shutter shock is by no means a phenomenon confined to these two bodies. Prior generations of bodies are clearly affected as well.
 
Here are some shots. Some have Anti-Shock set to (0). Some have Anti-Shock set to OFF. Which ones are which? Of course the only valid test would have someone set Anti-Shock to (0) or OFF, someone else take the photo, and then for you to decide which are which. But this should be good enough because honestly I don't care what the shots show (or don't):

74e6130a4ba440f9b3a76c1605bb3641.jpg

c3efc919843c48a286ae852129c68f83.jpg

f98bc21f4d3b41968676f34d7a262754.jpg

5304d8016f5848e3946a10326f3dc7e8.jpg

ddea75d070604dd2b8cbe607a92532ff.jpg

8fa0af0cc83a41cfa3cd70ea3b312446.jpg

I haven't even looked at these myself but if you can correctly identify which are which I'll be very impressed.

Shutter Shock seems to be a catch-all phrase used anytime someone gets a blurry photo. There are very few credible tests which show it and even those tests aren't reproducible. (Hand held photos by someone who is a believer is NOT credible BTW -- anyone can blur a photo). My guess is that blurring related to the equipment, when that occurs, is not related to the shutter in the simple way that has been suggested. Other things are probably involved. All in all it's mostly a distraction which is best ignored, and hopefully the new Anti-Shock (0) setting will let this happen.
Do you even know which shots had which setting? Did you write it down?
 
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