I was in a market for my very first DSLR. I went into a store debating between the 70D and the T5i. I bought a D5300 because the display model was only $850 with the 18-140 VR lens. I spent 20 days with it (I used to use a SLR but it been 10 years since). I noticed that this camera is somewhat slow. I have two very active toddlers and a dog so I was debating if I'll be better off with a 70D. The main usage would be kids pictures, action pictures, and family videos.
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Had the D5300 for 20 days now. Thinking about returning it for the 70D.
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Chris R-UK
Forum Pro
Can you explain in what way the D5300 is "slow":
- Slow starting up?
- Slow focusing in normal light?
- Slow focusing in low light?
- Slow focusing during video?
- Slow in some other way?
It would be better to analyse the cause of the problem with this camera rather than exchange it and find that you have the same problem with the next.
The one exception would be slow focusing during video where the Canon 70D would be a lot better.
If you want to use the camera for hand held video a camera with an EVF like the Panasonic G6, GX7, GH3/GH4 or Sony A58 might be more suitable for you anyway.
I meant processing, focusing, and writing the card
After reading so many feed backs from several forums, I'm starting to think that it might just be me after all. I haven't use any SLR for so long and has gotten use to a a point and shoot PowerShot S2 IS. I will spend more time with it. I will learn the camera before returning it.
However, the 70D still sounds appealing with the auto focus for video.
After reading so many feed backs from several forums, I'm starting to think that it might just be me after all. I haven't use any SLR for so long and has gotten use to a a point and shoot PowerShot S2 IS. I will spend more time with it. I will learn the camera before returning it.
However, the 70D still sounds appealing with the auto focus for video.
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LOL.. I got my from Abt. They only have one physical store and it's located in one of the Chicago suburbs. Normally, they have a 15 days with 15% restock fee return policy on cameras. But I bought a case display model and the sale person agreed to give me 30 days no restocking fee return policy. I don't know if that is their normal policy for floor models or is it because i just spend 10k on kitchen appliances at their store... LOL
You can read about the 70D's performance here:
And the Nikon D5300 here:
The reviewers said that both cameras are very responsive, but the Canon has a much higher frame rate for burst shooting. They also note that Nikon has particular lenses which have faster focusing. I assume yours is one, but I'm not a Nikon user so I don't know.
But, let's peel back the onion a bit: You're having performance issues photographing your kids. That sounds like indoor, low-light photography. The autofocus is going to struggle in low light, especially with an f/3.5 zoom, and if you're firing the built- in flash, it's recycle time will be very slow.
A few options:
1) Try again in bright sunlight. This lets you know if the problem was dim lighting or if the camera's just slow.
2) You can try a faster lens, such as a 50mm f/1.8 or even f/1.4
3) If you're using flash indoors, get a good Speedlight flash. You want a model with lots of power, a tilting head, and an autofocus assist beam. Use the tilting head to diffuse the light -- this will slow recycle times, which is why you want the highest powered unit you can get ( faster recycle )
4) You can get the Canon instead. It is a great camera, but I think that if you're having lowlight performance problems, the solution will be more light.
Note that these are just suggestions and I can't be certain of the cause of your particular complaint -- I may be wrong.
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m.dpreview.com
And the Nikon D5300 here:
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m.dpreview.com
The reviewers said that both cameras are very responsive, but the Canon has a much higher frame rate for burst shooting. They also note that Nikon has particular lenses which have faster focusing. I assume yours is one, but I'm not a Nikon user so I don't know.
But, let's peel back the onion a bit: You're having performance issues photographing your kids. That sounds like indoor, low-light photography. The autofocus is going to struggle in low light, especially with an f/3.5 zoom, and if you're firing the built- in flash, it's recycle time will be very slow.
A few options:
1) Try again in bright sunlight. This lets you know if the problem was dim lighting or if the camera's just slow.
2) You can try a faster lens, such as a 50mm f/1.8 or even f/1.4
3) If you're using flash indoors, get a good Speedlight flash. You want a model with lots of power, a tilting head, and an autofocus assist beam. Use the tilting head to diffuse the light -- this will slow recycle times, which is why you want the highest powered unit you can get ( faster recycle )
4) You can get the Canon instead. It is a great camera, but I think that if you're having lowlight performance problems, the solution will be more light.
Note that these are just suggestions and I can't be certain of the cause of your particular complaint -- I may be wrong.
Chris R-UK
Forum Pro
You are doing something wrong.
No modern DSLR is "slow" at processing, focusing and writing to the card unless you are shooting 100 shots bursts in Liveview .
Thank you so much. I will try this over the weekend.
Chris R-UK
Forum Pro
There are two Sony 32GB class 10 cards. One writes at 10mb/s and the other at 45mb/s. If you got the cheaper of the two, that's probably one reason you're having slow write times.
DSLRs use slower CDAF when operating in live view. If you're primarily using it this way then that's another problem.
The 70D is designed to AF quicker in live view than a traditional DSLR. In addition to that camera all the Sony SLTs will also focus faster in live view.
I think you should try and figure out how to work with what you have, but if you know you'll be using live view often then you might want to go with the 70D, A Sony SLT, or a mirrorless camera.
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Good luck and happy shooting!
DSLRs use slower CDAF when operating in live view. If you're primarily using it this way then that's another problem.
The 70D is designed to AF quicker in live view than a traditional DSLR. In addition to that camera all the Sony SLTs will also focus faster in live view.
I think you should try and figure out how to work with what you have, but if you know you'll be using live view often then you might want to go with the 70D, A Sony SLT, or a mirrorless camera.
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Good luck and happy shooting!
OpticsEngineer
Veteran Member
"so I was debating if I'll be better off with a 70D. The main usage would be kids pictures, action pictures, and family videos."
And later you mention wanting to use LiveView AF.
Yes, you would have been happier with a 70D. Or a Sony camera like A65, A58 or A77. The link below has some comments on Canon 70D versus Sony.
I have a Nikon D7100 and Sony A65. Like the 5300, the D7100 has very slow focus in LiveView.
For taking photos of the kids, I find the A65 much more versatile, get down low shots, overhead shots, talking to the kids while taking pictures, they can see my face and expressions (with the D7100, with me looking through the OVF, they can't see my face and I can't talk to them very well.)
When I do take photos of my kids with my D7100, I find I try to duplicate what I can get with my A65, so I just end up with a lot of blind shots, pointing the camera in the general direction of them, zoomed out a bit so I can crop later. It is not very satisfactory.
And later you mention wanting to use LiveView AF.
Yes, you would have been happier with a 70D. Or a Sony camera like A65, A58 or A77. The link below has some comments on Canon 70D versus Sony.
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www.dpreview.com
I have a Nikon D7100 and Sony A65. Like the 5300, the D7100 has very slow focus in LiveView.
For taking photos of the kids, I find the A65 much more versatile, get down low shots, overhead shots, talking to the kids while taking pictures, they can see my face and expressions (with the D7100, with me looking through the OVF, they can't see my face and I can't talk to them very well.)
When I do take photos of my kids with my D7100, I find I try to duplicate what I can get with my A65, so I just end up with a lot of blind shots, pointing the camera in the general direction of them, zoomed out a bit so I can crop later. It is not very satisfactory.
I ONLY ever buy my photo gear from a place where I have the option to return it (NOT, I hasten to add, to abuse as a free hire service). It's no big deal for me to spend a lot of money on a camera that's had a little use, BUT it is a big deal for me to spend a lot of money on a camera that's not suitable for me.
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Rather than spend money on the 70D you are better off, IMO, spending it on a faster lens or on an accessory flash. For shooting children and dogs indoors a faster lens and/or a flash would be a big help. An inexpensive fast lens for Nikon is their 35mm f/1.8 G AF-S (about $200 new).
An accessory flash can be used for bounce flash. This is a technique where you bounce the light from the flash off of a white ceiling or wall. It gives a much more natural and pleasing light than direct flash, and the flash will prevent motion blur from an active child or dog. It also prevents red eye in people and pets.
An accessory flash can be used for bounce flash. This is a technique where you bounce the light from the flash off of a white ceiling or wall. It gives a much more natural and pleasing light than direct flash, and the flash will prevent motion blur from an active child or dog. It also prevents red eye in people and pets.
Let me give you a few more pointers --
You mentioned Sports photography. Let me welcome you to one of the most expensive types of photography. There are three challenges in Sports photography:
1) Using a high frame rate to capture action
2) Poor indoor lighting, like a gymnasium
3) High speed telephoto lenses are expensive
Canon and Nikon both make decent 55-250mm zooms, which are fairly inexpensive. And, they also make $1,500-$2,400+ professional zooms and high-aperture fixed telephoto lenses.
Let's look at frame rate: You want TWO things here, a high frame rate AND a large buffer. In burst shooting mode, DSLR's capture to RAM. The do not capture directly to the flash memory, so the card speed doesn't matter, the size of the RAM buffer matters. If we look at the reviews of the D5300 and Canon 70D, here's what we see:
RAW:
Canon: 7.5 fps, 11 shots
Nikon: 4.2 fps, 6 shots
JPEG:
Canon: 7.2 fps, 17 shots
Nikon: 5 fps, 8 shots
Once you take those 6 to 11 shots, the camera slows dramatically and it's basically useless. My camera, the Canon 7D, is particularly good: It takes 8 fps for 23 RAW shots or an infinite number of JPEG shots -- it can continually write-through to flash without slowing down in JPEG mode.
Another aspect is autofocus performance. I'm not a Nikon shooter; somebody else will have to fill you in on how well the D5300 works at tracking focus on a moving subject. But the Canon 7D and 70D are particularly good at tracking moving subjects during burst shooting, which is a killer sports feature.
An excellent resource for understanding autofocus are three YouTube videos of a lecture given by Rudy Winston of Canon. And while these are based on the Canon, the information is the same for Nikon except for the terminology.
I promise you, even that first of the three videos will make you a WAY better photographer.
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Don't feel the need to chase a camera with a fast burst mode. It's not necessarily a sound solution. They don't call it the 'spray and pray' technique for nothing.
Timing is the important factor, and something best learnt by anticipating the shot and not by holding your finger down on the shutter.
Check this site for some more tips:
And, really, the point of an SLR is to use the optical viewfinder. Rethink beyond any dSLR if you don't think you can adapt to shooting that way.
Best of luck deciding.
Timing is the important factor, and something best learnt by anticipating the shot and not by holding your finger down on the shutter.
Check this site for some more tips:
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digital-photography-school.com
And, really, the point of an SLR is to use the optical viewfinder. Rethink beyond any dSLR if you don't think you can adapt to shooting that way.
Best of luck deciding.
LiveView AF still isn't good for action photography with a DSLR. It's not good at tracking action. The OVF is really the way to go. I use LiveView for tripod work and, of course, video, where face-tracking AF works pretty well for someone who doesn't move much.
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