HS50 no good in low light

Why, God, why? (...won't these people edit...???)
They must be too slavishly following the old "A picture is worth a thousand words" maxim and want their replies to provide good value even if they don't include pictures or photos. They might learn something if their internet access was changed to using a serial port connected to a 110 or 300 baud modem. :)
 
There are too many variables for default settings to work optimally ALL the time under all circumstances. Why else would people spend hundreds if not thousands for cameras with manual control to override automatic features (aside from bigger $ensor$ and fas$$$$ter lenses).

The perceptive and discerning human eye and brain still excel at photography, no matter what the camera.
 
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There are too many variables for default settings to work optimally ALL the time under all circumstances. Why else would people spend hundreds if not thousands for cameras with manual control to override automatic features (aside from bigger $ensor$ and fas$$$$ter lenses).

The perceptive and discerning human eye and brain still excel at photography, no matter what the camera.
We are talking about P&S cameras here, and why reviewers don't spend more time searching for the optimum settings with this type of camera. In that context, it would be reasonable to expect reasonably good default settings, at least good enough for a decent review, and because most P&S buyers (and Fuji bridge cameras belong in that category) will tend to use them at or close to default settings. When it comes to that, Fuji unfortunately has one of the worst sets of default settings among the P&S camera makers, and it is hurting the company in the long run (it is already probably over for Fujifilm in this market, the damage is done).
 
BTW if anyone wants to know how I equate "grain size" between printers and monitors- well, 300 ppi being ideal for printers, most monitors are around 72 ppi..... so I approximate that the grain size of monitors is about 4x that of printers (75*4=300)..... so in theory you should halve each dimension of a 7 MP image to simulate 7.5x10 print grain size on a monitor- so it's actually even a bit less than 1600x1200.
No monitors are around 72 ppi. This is internet myth.
Let's Update that a bit. . .

28" Monitor @ 1920 x 1200 Resolution is Almost Dead On 72ppi ( Only .050" of an Inch Off )

( 28" / 1920 = 0.0145833" x 72 = 1.05" )

You can argue over different methods of measurement BUT you're right in the Ball Park for a 28" Monitor. . .

Good Work Alex !

Cheers from Orion :-)
 
They are not P/S cameras and should not be considered as such, P/S cameras dont have ASM modes or manual zoom lenses or RAW mode for that matter. They aren't even marketed as P/S cameras. I've never even used any of the auto modes nor P mode on ANY camera I've ever owned and I would NEVER buy a P/S camera.

A P/S camera is one of those credit card sized things in bright colors. This is a SERIOUS camera.

--
https://supermanalexthegreat.shutterfly.com/
 
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Wow, Orion it sounds like you have one awesome monitor! If you can (either here or in PM) let me know what brand/model you have please, I may want to have a monitor like that for my next computer build. I wanted to have a large wide screen, either 28" or 30".
 
They are not P/S cameras and should not be considered as such, P/S cameras dont have ASM modes or manual zoom lenses or RAW mode for that matter. They aren't even marketed as P/S cameras. I've never even used any of the auto modes nor P mode on ANY camera I've ever owned and I would NEVER buy a P/S camera.

A P/S camera is one of those credit card sized things in bright colors. This is a SERIOUS camera.
 
Wow, Orion it sounds like you have one awesome monitor! If you can (either here or in PM) let me know what brand/model you have please, I may want to have a monitor like that for my next computer build. I wanted to have a large wide screen, either 28" or 30".

--
https://supermanalexthegreat.shutterfly.com/
You could always spash out on the ASUS PQ321Q 31.5-Inch 4K Monitor if you've got the real estate space on your desk; if not the Dell Ultrasharp UP2414Q at 24 inch should fit. :-P
 
That's possible- I dont see a high likelihood of a new HS series model, it seems like Fuji is moving on with it's new "S" "waterproof" series.... it's just that the term "point and shoot" seems misleading because of all the customization available with these cameras. I thin Kim and a few others have shown that in bright light and low ISO, it's hard to tell the difference between the output of these cameras and that of a large sensor camera. DR is on par with a large sensor camera too, it's just the ISO issue once over 400, these cameras are left way behind. I'd just come up with a different name, I guess superzoom is as good as any, it pretty much describes what the camera's main focus is.

There are actually some niche markets where smaller sensors are much preferred over large sensors- one is then extreme zoom market (for portability and the cost of having to buy extra lenses) and the other is digiscoping. Because of the way aperture is calculated, small sensors are actually more sensitive to collecting light than large sensor cameras are when part of an afocal digiscoping set up. DOF is much shallower for a given aperture with large sensor cameras of course (this may be a positive or negative depending on taste and type of photography), but exposure times are shorter with the smaller sensor when afocally digiscoping. The large sensor cameras need to use higher ISO to compensate. Another area in which small sensor cameras may be better is close up macros. You'd have to spend a lot of money to get a large sensor camera that could match the great macro ability of some of the venerable 'P/S' cameras of the past. In pretty much everything else, large sensors are better.

--
https://supermanalexthegreat.shutterfly.com/
 
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They are not P/S cameras and should not be considered as such, P/S cameras dont have ASM modes or manual zoom lenses or RAW mode for that matter. They aren't even marketed as P/S cameras. I've never even used any of the auto modes nor P mode on ANY camera I've ever owned and I would NEVER buy a P/S camera.

A P/S camera is one of those credit card sized things in bright colors. This is a SERIOUS camera.
 
They are not P/S cameras and should not be considered as such, P/S cameras dont have ASM modes or manual zoom lenses or RAW mode for that matter. They aren't even marketed as P/S cameras. I've never even used any of the auto modes nor P mode on ANY camera I've ever owned and I would NEVER buy a P/S camera.

A P/S camera is one of those credit card sized things in bright colors. This is a SERIOUS camera.
 
I left mine at ISO400 auto and DRAuto and I am getting low ISO and low DR always or equal to ISO. Only in lowlight where I would get IS0400.
This makes no sense, because in bright sunlight with hard shadows (high contrast scene), using DR auto and ISO auto 400 with "L" size, the camera should select dr400/iso400 quite often, or at least 200. At least I know my X-S1 does. Maybe most of your sunny day shots are of low contrast scenes? Don't know :-|
 
They are not P/S cameras and should not be considered as such, P/S cameras dont have ASM modes or manual zoom lenses or RAW mode for that matter. They aren't even marketed as P/S cameras. I've never even used any of the auto modes nor P mode on ANY camera I've ever owned and I would NEVER buy a P/S camera.

A P/S camera is one of those credit card sized things in bright colors. This is a SERIOUS camera.
 
I left mine at ISO400 auto and DRAuto and I am getting low ISO and low DR always or equal to ISO. Only in lowlight where I would get IS0400.
This makes no sense, because in bright sunlight with hard shadows (high contrast scene), using DR auto and ISO auto 400 with "L" size, the camera should select dr400/iso400 quite often, or at least 200. At least I know my X-S1 does. Maybe most of your sunny day shots are of low contrast scenes? Don't know :-|
 
Even in L size I have found you can get whatever ISO or DR setting you desire by using shutter priority and spot metering, you can basically "train/trick" the camera into choosing your preferred ISO and DR combo (provided that DR<=ISO of course)

You select as slow a shutter speed as the steadiness of your hands will allow and use spot metering to meter off a part of the frame that will give you the DR setting you want.

--
https://supermanalexthegreat.shutterfly.com/
 
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Using shutter priority and spot metering, you can train/trick the camera into selecting what you want, even when set to "AUTO".
 
I left mine at ISO400 auto and DRAuto and I am getting low ISO and low DR always or equal to ISO. Only in lowlight where I would get IS0400.
This makes no sense, because in bright sunlight with hard shadows (high contrast scene), using DR auto and ISO auto 400 with "L" size, the camera should select dr400/iso400 quite often, or at least 200. At least I know my X-S1 does. Maybe most of your sunny day shots are of low contrast scenes? Don't know :-|
 
I have posted at least a dozen of critter shots at low ISO using ISO400 Auto. So either you are a liar or just guestimating because you don't own any HS camera. And even with HS30 before, the same settings will give the same results. Leave the DR to 400 and in LSize, you will get what you wanted.

-=[ Joms ]=-
You are so removed from the average non-enthusiast user with your wacky settings, that this discussion does not apply to you. We are talking about average soccer moms and dads that will be getting lousy pics whenever left at the mercy of the camera auto settings. This is where Fuji lost the market share, not the fanatics like you.
 
That's possible- I dont see a high likelihood of a new HS series model, it seems like Fuji is moving on with it's new "S" "waterproof" series.... it's just that the term "point and shoot" seems misleading because of all the customization available with these cameras. I thin Kim and a few others have shown that in bright light and low ISO, it's hard to tell the difference between the output of these cameras and that of a large sensor camera. DR is on par with a large sensor camera too, it's just the ISO issue once over 400, these cameras are left way behind. I'd just come up with a different name, I guess superzoom is as good as any, it pretty much describes what the camera's main focus is.

There are actually some niche markets where smaller sensors are much preferred over large sensors- one is then extreme zoom market (for portability and the cost of having to buy extra lenses) and the other is digiscoping. Because of the way aperture is calculated, small sensors are actually more sensitive to collecting light than large sensor cameras are when part of an afocal digiscoping set up. DOF is much shallower for a given aperture with large sensor cameras of course (this may be a positive or negative depending on taste and type of photography), but exposure times are shorter with the smaller sensor when afocally digiscoping. The large sensor cameras need to use higher ISO to compensate. Another area in which small sensor cameras may be better is close up macros. You'd have to spend a lot of money to get a large sensor camera that could match the great macro ability of some of the venerable 'P/S' cameras of the past. In pretty much everything else, large sensors are better.
 
Yeah, I think if one were to limit oneself to owning no more than three cameras at a time, one would be a full frame camera, another would be a mirrorless 4/3 (others may want to substitute APS here) and the third would be a superzoom camera.
 

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