6.7-13mm UWA--tips, tricks, & pix?

bj klin

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Ok. After reading all the rave reviews of N1's UWA, I did it--I hit the checkout button. What I realize (this being my first WA lens) is there is a learning curve--in other words, I suck at it. Anyone got any sage advise and pix to push me in the right directions? I think it is going to be a fun little lens just need to look at subject and composition differently (don't just want a bunch of cluttered get-it-all-in shots).~bj
 
Tip #1 would be to always hold the camera so that it is oriented truly parallel to the ground (not tilted upwards or downwards). That will keep vertical lines from tilting inwards or outwards (unless that is what you want). If you need more picture height, rotate the camera into portrait (vertical frame) mode.

anotherrich



 6.7-13 VR zoom at 13mm
6.7-13 VR zoom at 13mm
 
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One tip that I think helps with wide angle pictures of landscapes is to include some object in the foreground. There's something about having a rock, flower, whatever at the bottom of the picture (often lower right or lower left) that gives the picture a sense of depth and makes it a more pleasing composition to the eye. This will often involve taking the shot while squatting instead of from a standing position.

Some people will warn against objects in the foreground, as an object that is too dominant can take away from the rest of the picture, but I find it helps much of the time. I think it's more a matter of taste and knowing when to pull it off. If taking pictures of architecture, for example, a person would probably want to avoid it because it could pull interest away from the structure in question.

Here is an example of a blog post discussion on this technique: Darrell Larson - Get close - Get wide

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http://yourshot.nationalgeographic.com/profile/509092/
 
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I'm saving for this N1 lens, but in my film days I used a 20mm all the time. One of the problems beside lines was clone heads. Having people to close the the edges and their head warping. Just reframe and shoot the subject a little looser so the object isn't by the edges.
 
One tip that I think helps with wide angle pictures of landscapes is to include some object in the foreground. There's something about having a rock, flower, whatever at the bottom of the picture (often lower right or lower left) that gives the picture a sense of depth and makes it a more pleasing composition to the eye. This will often involve taking the shot while squatting instead of from a standing position.

Some people will warn against objects in the foreground, as an object that is too dominant can take away from the rest of the picture, but I find it helps much of the time. I think it's more a matter of taste and knowing when to pull it off. If taking pictures of architecture, for example, a person would probably want to avoid it because it could pull interest away from the structure in question.
+1 on the recommendation of using a leading line or subject with a wide angle to bring the viewer into the image. One of my favorites from last summer in Washington DC below. More at this link.

Vietnam Memorial Wall

Vietnam Memorial Wall
 
I love to use mine, as a landscape lens, mostly in the long end, while the wide end is perfect for crowded places, like Asian night-markets, street photography, family action, closeups of dogs, cats, and horses.

So for me it is serious in the long end, feelings in the short! Keep it level, and you'll be a happy user!
 
LOL. Thought this would be a walk around lens (according to some). On my old Canon dslr I had a nice zoom that was my go-to walk around. Seems like it has it (fun) place.
 
People bring lots of different meanings to "walk around lens". To some that would mean a superzoom that offers everything from wide-angle to substantial telephoto. To others, that might mean something really small (e.g. the 10mm pancake). I guess the 6.7-13mm could be a walk around lens for people that do lots of architecture shots (want to get the whole building in the frame or maybe want something that captures everything from the floor to the vaulted ceiling of a cathedral). I would love to have this lens in my kit but think I would primarily use it for landscape shots and the interiors of large buildings (e.g. churches, etc.).

Now that I've ordered a refurb version of the 30-110mm lens to cover my telephoto needs, the UWA is next one on my list.

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http://yourshot.nationalgeographic.com/profile/509092/
 
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7f63b82928cf40668f1ec0a3cdca5ea0.jpg

This one is so-so... Still learning how to work with it myself!
 

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