First off, my camera will never be mistaken as, "new." It has obviously been dropped on its head with a minor ding. The screen has a quarter inch gouge in it and there a scratch on the face of the camera. The VF-4 had a huge thumbprint right on the viewing screen, easily cleaned off, but there nonetheless. The 17mm seemed pretty flawless and so did the sensor. I'm a little disappointed, but considering the VF4 sells for almost $200 used and the 17mm for almost $400 used, I'm looking at a $260 camera that was/is $800-1000 new. I'll get over it...
On to other matters at hand. Even though I described the cosmetic flaws that came with a refurbished product above , this camera is still, simply gorgeous! I kind of wanted to get the black version just so that it wouldn't draw too much attention but darn it, it's so purdee! Unfortunately, I completely and utterly fear dropping this thing! I've dropped my G3 with PL25 a couple of times. I even destroyed two hoods! The polycarbonates of that camera and lens are surprisingly very bouncy and durable! The E-P5 with 17mm will not tolerate the same abuse, I'm sure. All this metal and glass just screams dents and cracks. The screen seems so susceptible to hitting the ground first, I'm seriously considering picking up one of those ridiculously expensive leather cases just to give it some cushion.
This will be my first Olympus body and my first time dealing with Olympus' camera's software and all I have to say, WHAT THE FSTOP! I love how customizable everything is but at the same time, it's not really all that consistent. For instance, I set the finger wheel to control Aperture in A mode, turning clockwise, like you're pulling a trigger, to stop down, ie: 1.8 -> 2.0 ->2.8 ->4.0 etc. Same thing for M mode. But in "ART" mode, I don't have a choice, it automatically goes backwards. I'll probably never use it other than out of boredom, but it's still kind of silly.
"HDR" mode seems to simply take three different exposures, 1 normal, 1 about 2 stops under, 1 about 2 stops over. AE bracketing allows me to choose multiple different exposures and different stops in 1/3 or full stop increments, but it doesn't do it in burst like "HDR" mode. I can't seem to get the camera to even do an actual single image HDR from the 3 exposures either. From what I'm used to on the G3, "HDR" mode seems like its simply a burst AE bracketing mode, which was what was already on the G3 in AE bracketing. Granted, I did have to do like 7 shots to get the 2 exposure differences between the 3 exposures, but it's the same nonetheless.
Lastly, for tonight anyways... What really is the point of Anti shock? I'll test it myself soon enough, but I'm just curious from everyone else if there's a real use to this.
Oh another thing, I can access all the art filters and what not by clicking the "Ok" button, is there any reason to have to dial to art filters then? Also, for my Panasonic cameras, I was able to set camera 1, 2, 3 to my liking. I notice I can practically set every mode one my dial on the E-P5. Will this save it like how the panasonics do?
I really need to get some sleep and work first thing in the morning, hence why I'm asking here and not jsut figuring it out myself. I really appreciate any info you guys can provide!
On to other matters at hand. Even though I described the cosmetic flaws that came with a refurbished product above , this camera is still, simply gorgeous! I kind of wanted to get the black version just so that it wouldn't draw too much attention but darn it, it's so purdee! Unfortunately, I completely and utterly fear dropping this thing! I've dropped my G3 with PL25 a couple of times. I even destroyed two hoods! The polycarbonates of that camera and lens are surprisingly very bouncy and durable! The E-P5 with 17mm will not tolerate the same abuse, I'm sure. All this metal and glass just screams dents and cracks. The screen seems so susceptible to hitting the ground first, I'm seriously considering picking up one of those ridiculously expensive leather cases just to give it some cushion.
This will be my first Olympus body and my first time dealing with Olympus' camera's software and all I have to say, WHAT THE FSTOP! I love how customizable everything is but at the same time, it's not really all that consistent. For instance, I set the finger wheel to control Aperture in A mode, turning clockwise, like you're pulling a trigger, to stop down, ie: 1.8 -> 2.0 ->2.8 ->4.0 etc. Same thing for M mode. But in "ART" mode, I don't have a choice, it automatically goes backwards. I'll probably never use it other than out of boredom, but it's still kind of silly.
"HDR" mode seems to simply take three different exposures, 1 normal, 1 about 2 stops under, 1 about 2 stops over. AE bracketing allows me to choose multiple different exposures and different stops in 1/3 or full stop increments, but it doesn't do it in burst like "HDR" mode. I can't seem to get the camera to even do an actual single image HDR from the 3 exposures either. From what I'm used to on the G3, "HDR" mode seems like its simply a burst AE bracketing mode, which was what was already on the G3 in AE bracketing. Granted, I did have to do like 7 shots to get the 2 exposure differences between the 3 exposures, but it's the same nonetheless.
Lastly, for tonight anyways... What really is the point of Anti shock? I'll test it myself soon enough, but I'm just curious from everyone else if there's a real use to this.
Oh another thing, I can access all the art filters and what not by clicking the "Ok" button, is there any reason to have to dial to art filters then? Also, for my Panasonic cameras, I was able to set camera 1, 2, 3 to my liking. I notice I can practically set every mode one my dial on the E-P5. Will this save it like how the panasonics do?
I really need to get some sleep and work first thing in the morning, hence why I'm asking here and not jsut figuring it out myself. I really appreciate any info you guys can provide!
