Comment on PS workflow

A good friend of mine that’s works for a magazine showed me this workflow and I have been using it for about 2 years. I just asking myself, is there a better way? Please take a look and see if there is a better way?

1. Create new folder
2. Download images to new folder

PhotoShop action
1. Open image
2. Auto Level
3. Fade auto 75%
4. Auto Contrast
5. Fade auto Contrast 75%
6. Convert from RGB to Lab color
7. Channel B Filter Dust & Scratches
8. Channel A Filter Dust & Scratches
9. Lightness Filter Dust & Scratches
10 Channel B Unsharp Mask
11 Channel A Unsharp Mask
12 Lightness Unsharp Mask
13 Convert from Lab color back to RGB
14 Save as Copy

Manual PhotoShop Work
1. Crop as needed
2. Re-size as needed (4X6, 5X7, 8X10, 10X12, 11X14) at 300 DPI
3. Save as .TIF

--
Always in training
http://www.pbase.com/mmiller6

Hi Michael:

Here's the mother of all tutorials on work flow that you might find interesting and would give better explanations than I'm capable of.

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/workflow1.shtml

I think you'll get some debate from the forum regulars on all the "auto" steps, however.

DannyR

Michael C Miller said:

A good friend of mine that’s works for a magazine showed me this
workflow and I have been using it for about 2 years. I just asking
myself, is there a better way? Please take a look and see if there
is a better way?

1. Create new folder
2. Download images to new folder

PhotoShop action
1. Open image
2. Auto Level
3. Fade auto 75%
4. Auto Contrast
5. Fade auto Contrast 75%
6. Convert from RGB to Lab color
7. Channel B Filter Dust & Scratches
8. Channel A Filter Dust & Scratches
9. Lightness Filter Dust & Scratches
10 Channel B Unsharp Mask
11 Channel A Unsharp Mask
12 Lightness Unsharp Mask
13 Convert from Lab color back to RGB
14 Save as Copy

Manual PhotoShop Work
1. Crop as needed
2. Re-size as needed (4X6, 5X7, 8X10, 10X12, 11X14) at 300 DPI
3. Save as .TIF

--
Always in training
http://www.pbase.com/mmiller6

Click to expand...

Michael C Miller said:

A good friend of mine that’s works for a magazine showed me this
workflow and I have been using it for about 2 years. I just asking
myself, is there a better way? Please take a look and see if there
is a better way?

1. Create new folder
2. Download images to new folder

PhotoShop action
1. Open image
2. Auto Level
3. Fade auto 75%
4. Auto Contrast
5. Fade auto Contrast 75%
6. Convert from RGB to Lab color
7. Channel B Filter Dust & Scratches
8. Channel A Filter Dust & Scratches
9. Lightness Filter Dust & Scratches
10 Channel B Unsharp Mask
11 Channel A Unsharp Mask
12 Lightness Unsharp Mask
13 Convert from Lab color back to RGB
14 Save as Copy

Manual PhotoShop Work
1. Crop as needed
2. Re-size as needed (4X6, 5X7, 8X10, 10X12, 11X14) at 300 DPI
3. Save as .TIF

--
Always in training
http://www.pbase.com/mmiller6

Click to expand...

do you mean those first 14 are done automatically as an action?
If so i would STRONGLY disagree with that workflow.

There can be vast differences in what kind of color correction and contrast and sharpening various images need. the auto levels and contrast are fine to try, sometimes they work well but you have to monitor them, they can produce awful results. if there are no dust and scratches then you are probably removing valuable pixel information when you run those with nothing in return. How often to digital photos have dust and scratches? or is he suggesting running those to remove noise? there are better ways

feivel

feivel said:

Michael C Miller said:

A good friend of mine that’s works for a magazine showed me this
workflow and I have been using it for about 2 years. I just asking
myself, is there a better way? Please take a look and see if there
is a better way?

1. Create new folder
2. Download images to new folder

PhotoShop action
1. Open image
2. Auto Level
3. Fade auto 75%
4. Auto Contrast
5. Fade auto Contrast 75%
6. Convert from RGB to Lab color
7. Channel B Filter Dust & Scratches
8. Channel A Filter Dust & Scratches
9. Lightness Filter Dust & Scratches
10 Channel B Unsharp Mask
11 Channel A Unsharp Mask
12 Lightness Unsharp Mask
13 Convert from Lab color back to RGB
14 Save as Copy

Manual PhotoShop Work
1. Crop as needed
2. Re-size as needed (4X6, 5X7, 8X10, 10X12, 11X14) at 300 DPI
3. Save as .TIF

--
Always in training
http://www.pbase.com/mmiller6

Click to expand...

do you mean those first 14 are done automatically as an action?
If so i would STRONGLY disagree with that workflow.
There can be vast differences in what kind of color correction and
contrast and sharpening various images need. the auto levels and
contrast are fine to try, sometimes they work well but you have to
monitor them, they can produce awful results. if there are no dust
and scratches then you are probably removing valuable pixel
information when you run those with nothing in return. How often
to digital photos have dust and scratches? or is he suggesting
running those to remove noise? there are better ways

feivel

Click to expand...

I agree fievel makes no sence to me. I might have certain ways I apply things ,but I never keep a set workflow. Plus the above workflow has no dirrection. What is it suppose to acomplish???

cadmandew

O.K. the first 14 steps are automated, I can run a batch or a single photo.

Secondly, my friend explained to me that the best way to remove digital noise with out losing detail was through the use of Lab Color Mode, also he explained to me that the best way to sharpen an image with out getting the halo effect is through the Lab color Mode.

Since he is a photographer for a magazine I didn't question it but as I learn more and more on here I'm starting to question. That is why I'm asking on here.

Thanks

Always in training
http://www.pbase.com/mmiller6

Michael C Miller said:

O.K. the first 14 steps are automated, I can run a batch or a
single photo.

Secondly, my friend explained to me that the best way to remove
digital noise with out losing detail was through the use of Lab
Color Mode, also he explained to me that the best way to sharpen an
image with out getting the halo effect is through the Lab color
Mode.

Since he is a photographer for a magazine I didn't question it but
as I learn more and more on here I'm starting to question. That is
why I'm asking on here.

Thanks

Always in training
http://www.pbase.com/mmiller6

Click to expand...

From what I know, they recommend sharpening the L channel of LAB--not the a and b channels. They also advise a little Gaussian Blur to the Blue Channel of RGB to take care of the usual noise produced by digital cameras or scanners.

Kenneth

Michael C Miller said:

O.K. the first 14 steps are automated, I can run a batch or a
single photo.

Secondly, my friend explained to me that the best way to remove
digital noise with out losing detail was through the use of Lab
Color Mode,

Click to expand...

i agree, but you have to watch the image while you are doing it

Michael C Miller said:

also he explained to me that the best way to sharpen an
image with out getting the halo effect is through the Lab color
Mode.

Click to expand...

most people do sharpening in lab, but it doesnt help much in removing sharpening artifacts. again there are much better (though more complex at first)ways.

Michael C Miller said:

Since he is a photographer for a magazine I didn't question it but
as I learn more and more on here I'm starting to question. That is
why I'm asking on here.

Click to expand...

if he is using 11 megapixel camera and/or consistent lighting setups in studio maybe that workflow is fine. i assume you are not

Michael C Miller said:

Thanks

Always in training
http://www.pbase.com/mmiller6

Click to expand...

photo_bug said:

From what I know, they recommend sharpening the L channel of
LAB--not the a and b channels. They also advise a little Gaussian
Blur to the Blue Channel of RGB to take care of the usual noise
produced by digital cameras or scanners.

Kenneth

Click to expand...

i didnt notice, thats true, his workflow sharpened all channels in lab, the advantage of using lab mode is to be able to sharpen ONLY the lab channel

feivel

dannyraphael said:

Here's the mother of all tutorials on work flow that you might find
interesting and would give better explanations than I'm capable of.

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/workflow1.shtml

I think you'll get some debate from the forum regulars on all the
"auto" steps, however.

DannyR

Michael C Miller said:

A good friend of mine that’s works for a magazine showed me this
workflow and I have been using it for about 2 years. I just asking
myself, is there a better way? Please take a look and see if there
is a better way?

1. Create new folder
2. Download images to new folder

PhotoShop action
1. Open image
2. Auto Level
3. Fade auto 75%
4. Auto Contrast
5. Fade auto Contrast 75%
6. Convert from RGB to Lab color
7. Channel B Filter Dust & Scratches
8. Channel A Filter Dust & Scratches
9. Lightness Filter Dust & Scratches
10 Channel B Unsharp Mask
11 Channel A Unsharp Mask
12 Lightness Unsharp Mask
13 Convert from Lab color back to RGB
14 Save as Copy

Manual PhotoShop Work
1. Crop as needed
2. Re-size as needed (4X6, 5X7, 8X10, 10X12, 11X14) at 300 DPI
3. Save as .TIF

--
Always in training
http://www.pbase.com/mmiller6

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

--
Vera

i estimate about 4 hours per photo

but i think danny posted it for it's comprehensiveness, take parts out of it and add to current workflow, or start here and simplify and discard.

feivel

--The luminous landscape site danny posted is brilliant but will take me an hour to read.
for what its worth this is what i normally do.

open the picture and DUPLICATE.
close the original.

If I need to crop I sometimes do it now.Also if there is any cloning I will maybe do it now.
Levels ( I like to do this manually)

check the histogram and move sliders. I look at each channel then check the RGB histogram again

curves, sometimes I do sometimes I don't maybe a slight s curve or whatever I think it needs.

Hue saturation. I usually need to adjust the saturation a little and a little lightness.(depends on my photo. as I am getting more used to using manual camera settings I don't need this so much.)
Contrast and Brightness sometimes a little .

USM to my taste. I have been experimenting since the good threads on here lately.

If I am uploading this to the web I usually will resize it to 10inby7.5 at 72 and put it on pbase
(there are some other things that may have to be done to some photos
Maybe colour correction , wb etc but this is my normal work flow.)

Now I am ready to play if I am going to retouch this for an artistic effect etc.

I have found its better to resize before playing with some of the tools especially smudge

Vera

The need for post proceessing is highly variable. After all, not all digital images are created equal. Some are made with 6 MP DSLRs with $1,500 lenses and others are made with $300 consumer cameras. Even with the same camera the image quality will vary with lighting and contrast of the scene photographed, ISO, etc.

Since upgrading to PS 7 the first thing I usually do its to apply Adjust > Auto Color. About 80% of the time this does a great job of adjusting contrast and snapping the colors to neutral. The other 20% it gives me a clue about where the problems are.

Chuck Gardner

Michael C Miller said:

A good friend of mine that’s works for a magazine showed me this
workflow and I have been using it for about 2 years. I just asking
myself, is there a better way? Please take a look and see if there
is a better way?

1. Create new folder
2. Download images to new folder

PhotoShop action
1. Open image
2. Auto Level
3. Fade auto 75%
4. Auto Contrast
5. Fade auto Contrast 75%
6. Convert from RGB to Lab color
7. Channel B Filter Dust & Scratches
8. Channel A Filter Dust & Scratches
9. Lightness Filter Dust & Scratches
10 Channel B Unsharp Mask
11 Channel A Unsharp Mask
12 Lightness Unsharp Mask
13 Convert from Lab color back to RGB
14 Save as Copy

Manual PhotoShop Work
1. Crop as needed
2. Re-size as needed (4X6, 5X7, 8X10, 10X12, 11X14) at 300 DPI
3. Save as .TIF

--
Always in training
http://www.pbase.com/mmiller6

Click to expand...

feivel said:

feivel said:

also he explained to me that the best way to sharpen an
image with out getting the halo effect is through the Lab color
Mode.

Click to expand...

most people do sharpening in lab, but it doesnt help much in
removing sharpening artifacts. again there are much better (though
more complex at first)ways.

Click to expand...

I aways wonder why ppl go to the lab channel to sharpen..Its a big waste of time and detail when after you sharpen you just edit---> fade to luminosity. The lab channel is great for removing color casts but why waste your time sharpening there???? Can someone phuleeezeee splain that to me??

cadmandew

cadmandew

cadmandew said:

I aways wonder why ppl go to the lab channel to sharpen..Its a big
waste of time and detail when after you sharpen you just
edit---> fade to luminosity. The lab channel is great for removing
color casts but why waste your time sharpening there???? Can
someone phuleeezeee splain that to me??

cadmandew

Click to expand...

I think it's the "Photoshop Way" to give you more than 1 way to skin the cat. You do what's best for you.

Or maybe it's a habit carried over from when PS didn't have the "Fade" option?

Using Fade gives you control over the Opacity, I personally use this too. You just gotta remember to use it immediately after applying the filter though.

I was just reading an article from Greg Duncan about sharpening in RPS Journal (from the good old library) and he says that when you convert from RGB to LAB and then back again you lose 14,590,459 of your 16 million colors!

I don't know if that's an issue or not. His recommendation is to make a duplicate layer, sharpen that and set its blend mode to Darken. Then make a copy of that layer, set its mode to lighten and reduce its opacity to around 18% (in his example)...

Andrew Burke said:

I was just reading an article from Greg Duncan about sharpening in
RPS Journal (from the good old library) and he says that when you
convert from RGB to LAB and then back again you lose 14,590,459 of
your 16 million colors!

I don't know if that's an issue or not. His recommendation is to
make a duplicate layer, sharpen that and set its blend mode to
Darken. Then make a copy of that layer, set its mode to lighten and
reduce its opacity to around 18% (in his example)...

Click to expand...

Andrew

I really dont know where Fievel and the rest get their info about sharpening in the lab channel but they are mis-informed and inturn they mis-inform others. All books I have ever read state the same thang Duncan says. Like I said if you dont want any color shifts just fade to luminosity after sharpening.

cadmandew

Can someone please explain this to me? Where is this option, and in what mode?

freeman said:

Can someone please explain this to me? Where is this option, and
in what mode?

Click to expand...

Look under Edit------> fade. You can fade right after appling a filter. You can control the opacity of the filter plus the blending mode.. When someone switches to the lab mode to sharpen they are making unnecessary steps and losing picture quality by making those mode shifts. Fading to lumosity is the same as the L channel. No color is involved... Sooo no color shifts.

cadmandew

... if you don't mind a few more questions. Are you saying that you always use the Luminosity mode with Unsharp Mask, and if so, what's the difference between that and normal?

I'd suggest reading this excellent discussion of human vision and how it relates to digital photography and the use of Lab editing:

http://www.cliffshade.com/dpfwiw/vision.htm

This is also a useful source of practical information,

http://www.ledet.com/margulis/LABCorrection.pdf

In professional graphic arts the end product of RGB photo editing is usually a set of CYMK separations (a CYMK mode file) prepared for offset printing. As noted in the Photoshop manual and on-line help, CIELab is the intermediate colorspace used for mode changes. Thus a RGB > CYMK mode change is actually a RGB > Lab> CYMK mode change. When you view a CYMK file in Photoshop, it must do a CYMK > RGB conversion to disply the file on the RGB monitor, but what is actually happening is a CYMK > Lab > RGB conversion. I don't fully understand the underpinnings of Photoshop, but have assumed that the computational engine for color space operated in tems of Lab coordinates.

In practical terms, I've never seen a problem with color switching back and forth from RGB to Lab with digital camera files. But I usually apply USM in RGB using high amounts / small radius (A=500 R=0.2)and Fade USM (luminance) because the results are quite similar (and I'm lazy).

Chuck Gardner

cadmandew said:

Andrew Burke said:

I was just reading an article from Greg Duncan about sharpening in
RPS Journal (from the good old library) and he says that when you
convert from RGB to LAB and then back again you lose 14,590,459 of
your 16 million colors!

I don't know if that's an issue or not. His recommendation is to
make a duplicate layer, sharpen that and set its blend mode to
Darken. Then make a copy of that layer, set its mode to lighten and
reduce its opacity to around 18% (in his example)...

Click to expand...

Andrew

I really dont know where Fievel and the rest get their info about
sharpening in the lab channel but they are mis-informed and inturn
they mis-inform others. All books I have ever read state the same
thang Duncan says. Like I said if you dont want any color shifts
just fade to luminosity after sharpening.

cadmandew

Click to expand...