I thought the M would be a temporary travel camera

Dancebert

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My old entry level APS-C DSLR died 10 days before starting on a planned 3 months of travel in a 4 month period. (Yes, I'm retired.) Bringing only my Canon S-95 was unacceptable. Between features I wanted and the price drop, the obvious choice was an EOS M.

At first I thought the M was adequate for travel, but not as a primary camera. Kit zoom lens quality exceeded my expectation, so much that I bought the 22mm while in Japan. AF performance was acceptable for travel use. The LCD was much better than my S-95 in bright light.

At the time of my DSLR accident, I'd already decided to replace it with a m43 and some tasty primes, but was waiting until the Panny GX-7 reviews were out. Now, after almost 2000 shots with the M, I'm in no hurry to get rid of it or buy a m43. Why? Three reasons.

The first came about because I started using the M in challenging AF situations with static subjects. That slowed me down, manual focus slowed me more. Often needed a tripod for acceptable manual focus. Tripods are inherently slow, which made me think more about which of the possibilities for a subject was the best. Bingo. It was like returning to the days of film when I tried to make each shot count on a 36 exposure roll. The aesthetics and composition of my images improved. They're still improving.

Second reason is I've rediscovered the joy of walking at the end of the day with a zone focused fast 35mm equivalent prime. Finally, I'm enjoying rebuilding the skill of anticipating a subject's motion and combining it with panning as needed.

When the rumors of the Oly EM-10 surfaced, I got excited again about a m43 system. I stopped fantasizing about it after a memory from my days as a pilot surfaced. To be the best pilot you can be, master the craft you have before moving to one with better or different performance.
 
How do you manage zone focusing with the eternally turning focus ring and no lens markings for focal distance?
 
After enough time in the setting to see what the typical distance to subjects is, I manually focus on some inanimate subject the same distance away. Using aperture priority, I take three shots of the inanimate subject, 1 at the typical distance, and 1 each with a step (or so) forward and back. I check to see if my exposure gave a useful depth of field, repeat if necessary.

Next I go shoot some subjects, then check to see if the focus and depth of field is working for real.

How do you manage zone focusing with the eternally turning focus ring and no lens markings for focal distance?
 

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