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help me put together my lens package...

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EnriccoPallazzo

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Hello and thanks for your input in advance.

Just got a D5100 for $399 w 18-55kit lens. I shoot primarily:

-Indoor people and candid portraits

-Indoor/Outdoor kids sports

-People and scenics outdoors

I have ordered a 55-200vr and a 35mm f1.8 for appx $300. I would like to sell the 18-55 for whatever I can get for it (if anything) and pickup a better all purpose/carry lens. I am considering the NK16-85vr, the 17-50 f2.8 Tamron, NK18-105vr and NK18-140vr. I have read great things about the 16-85VR but wish it was brighter for indoor shots (thoughts on this?) Will consider any other thoughts as well...

Budget being $550

THX!
 
Seems that you need fast and good glass (for sports and/or indoor) for around 550USD.

I'd get the 35 1.8 and 85 1.8. That is within budget. Both are fast to focus and good in low light. A two prime combo also teaches you many things a zoom never will.
And I'd add a cheap but great 18-105VR to have something wider.

16-85 is a good lens, but nothing better than the 18-105 for three times as much money. Both are slow consumer zooms.

Tamron/Sigma 2.8 zooms might be a good choice also, but I have no experience with those.
 
I'd go for the F2.8 zoom to replace the 18-55.

After that, perhaps an 85F1.8g, and start looking at flash options.
 
EnriccoPallazzo said:
Hello and thanks for your input in advance.

Just got a D5100 for $399 w 18-55kit lens. I shoot primarily:

-Indoor people and candid portraits

-Indoor/Outdoor kids sports

-People and scenics outdoors

I have ordered a 55-200vr and a 35mm f1.8 for appx $300. I would like to sell the 18-55 for whatever I can get for it (if anything) and pickup a better all purpose/carry lens. I am considering the NK16-85vr, the 17-50 f2.8 Tamron, NK18-105vr and NK18-140vr. I have read great things about the 16-85VR but wish it was brighter for indoor shots (thoughts on this?) Will consider any other thoughts as well...

Budget being $550

THX!
Click to expand...
first thing you need to buy is a decent flash with bounce and swivel head

then i'd get a sigma 20mm 1.8 and a nikon 85mm 1.8g

then stop buying camera stuff for 1 year

and shoot 10,000 photos

.....

i am sure you will ignore the advice above

and buy all kinds of low end and/or slow zooms

then you'll get on the return/ebay treadmill of tears

finally blaming the camera and possibly quitting all together

thats the path of 95% of folks starting out

....

or you could just follow my advice.

3 faster primes

1 good flash that bounces and swivels

thats all you need, sir

if you cant afford this now, wait a month or so

this is the right stuff to own starting out
 
Last edited:
For $199 the 35 1.8G belongs in most DX shooter's bag. For $219 the 50 1.8G if you need the range.

either Nikon 16-85 or Sigma 17-50 2.8

Nikon 70-300 over the 55-200.
 
I had the Tamron 17-50 and really liked it. If I would start again, i would get it again.

I think the 55-200 unfortunately can be a disappointment, I would suggest looking at the 70-300 Tamron too.

But I also tend to agree with James's suggestion. If you can do that, It would improve your skills a lot.
 
I want to add my voice to that of the sole poster who recommended the 20mm f1.8 Sigma and an 85mm Nikkor. Along with a 35mm f2 (not the DX 1.8, which I'd recommend above my old f2), this covers all indoor and portrait needs; indoors, you can zoom with your feet. There are countless threads about the pros and cons of 16/17-50/70 third party 2.8 lenses, all of which various posters find significant fault due to design compromises and manufacturer quality control.

For outdoor sports, you either need to spend a small fortune on a 70/80-200 2.8 zoom or compromise on lens speed with some 70-200/300 f4/4.5 - 5.6/6.3 Nikon or third party lens. There are also six zillion threads on those options.

I'd keep the 18-55 kit zoom, for which you won't get much money in trade or resale. I think you will be surprised how much you will use this lens for convenience compared with any high speed options you might purchase.

Anyway, don't overspend and, remember, this is supposed to be fun!
 
try the new 18-140, it's had some good reviews
 
I think I have an even better option...sigma 17-50 f2.8 for $450 used and a flash...sb700, 600, 800...whatever you can find used. Then if you really want some tele, get a refurbished 55-200 vr for less than $200.
 
My strong advice is to stick with what you've got and then, after a while, re-read this thread.
 
Thank you all for the input. I like the idea of 3 small primes. I'm not sure its completely practical for me. I have kids, more lens options/changes may be a problem. Good bright 17-50 may be more practical in some scenarios. I will be traveling with the family in upcoming weeks. My plan is to bring just the 35 f1.8 which i am receiving this week. I think i will learn a lot from this experiment in regards to my needs...
 
oddly enough until you really understand perspective, you are actually really limiting yourself with a zoom.

it's about your feet not just the focal length. zooms allow you to be lazy and take OK (at best) shots from the wrong perspective. this is a fact and it takes a fairly well experienced shooter to avoid the temptation.

finally, also don't overestimate the brightness of f/2.8 without flash. if you are shooting kids indoors you will need at least 1/125th and at f/2.8 you will be at ISO6400 and that's painful in a DX camera.

make sure you get a flash. you need one. it must bounce and swivel.
 
JamesErik1971 said:
first thing you need to buy is a decent flash with bounce and swivel head

then i'd get a sigma 20mm 1.8 and a nikon 85mm 1.8g

then stop buying camera stuff for 1 year

and shoot 10,000 photos

.....

i am sure you will ignore the advice above

and buy all kinds of low end and/or slow zooms

then you'll get on the return/ebay treadmill of tears

finally blaming the camera and possibly quitting all together

thats the path of 95% of folks starting out

....

or you could just follow my advice.

3 faster primes

1 good flash that bounces and swivels

thats all you need, sir

if you cant afford this now, wait a month or so

this is the right stuff to own starting out
Click to expand...
This is the best advice any photographer could give to someone starting out. It is the quickest and cheapest path you could follow. MANY of us have been down this road before, it would be wise to listen.

I could add one more. Shoot RAW. I don't care if you don't use them now, you will later. I have many a stunning photo that I only have an SOOC JPG of. Still kicking myself.

Cheers

William Cowan
 
EnriccoPallazzo said:
Hello and thanks for your input in advance.

Just got a D5100 for $399 w 18-55kit lens. I shoot primarily:

-Indoor people and candid portraits

-Indoor/Outdoor kids sports

-People and scenics outdoors

I have ordered a 55-200vr and a 35mm f1.8 for appx $300. I would like to sell the 18-55 for whatever I can get for it (if anything) and pickup a better all purpose/carry lens. I am considering the NK16-85vr, the 17-50 f2.8 Tamron, NK18-105vr and NK18-140vr. I have read great things about the 16-85VR but wish it was brighter for indoor shots (thoughts on this?) Will consider any other thoughts as well...

Budget being $550

THX!
Click to expand...
Enricco:

Check your PMs.

msc
 
on DX, 35 has many more applications than 50. 50 on DX is a no-man land lens, how many 75mm FX primes are people using out there? it's a weird focal length. I agree it's better for one-person formal vertical portraits, but you still be cropping. and for candid portraits indoors 50 on DX is way too tight, 35mm may even be too tight for some indoors.

as far as slow zooms, shot stopped down in good light, they do perform. but so does every other camera even a modern point and shoot. and unsurprisingly, slow zoom DX photos don't look that different from high end point and shoot photos. so what's the point of the DX set up? proudly flashing the shiny nikon neck strap? just kidding : )

....

3 fast primes
1 decent bounce and swivel head flash
stop buying camera gear for 1 year
shoot 10,000 photos

you will grow SHOCKINGLY fast

I challenge you OP, to join us
if you are up for the journey
 
Last edited:
JamesErik1971 said:
on DX, 35 has many more applications than 50. 50 on DX is a no-man land lens, how many 75mm FX primes are people using out there? it's a weird focal length. I agree it's better for one-person formal vertical portraits, but you still be cropping. and for candid portraits indoors 50 on DX is way too tight, 35mm may even be too tight for some indoors.
Click to expand...
We are all different - my opinion was based on the OP wanting to shoot indoor portraits - and based on my experiences. I use FX - out of the 4 f/1.4 primes - 24, 35, 50 and 85 - I tend to use the 35 (for the versatility) and the 85 (short portraits) most - as opposed to the 50 (similar FOV to 35 on DX).

The 50 on DX is a slightly closer to the 85mm on FX as far as FOV is concerned.
JamesErik1971 said:
as far as slow zooms, shot stopped down in good light, they do perform. but so does every other camera even a modern point and shoot. and unsurprisingly, slow zoom DX photos don't look that different from high end point and shoot photos. so what's the point of the DX set up? proudly flashing the shiny nikon neck strap? just kidding : )
Click to expand...
Have not used a modern P&S (nor the kit lens) in a while - so cannot really compare the two - but do remember for the budget the kit lens 18-55 at f/8 was surprisingly good.
JamesErik1971 said:
....

3 fast primes
1 decent bounce and swivel head flash
stop buying camera gear for 1 year
shoot 10,000 photos

you will grow SHOCKINGLY fast

I challenge you OP, to join us
if you are up for the journey
Click to expand...
 
JamesErik1971 said:
on DX, 35 has many more applications than 50. 50 on DX is a no-man land lens, how many 75mm FX primes are people using out there? it's a weird focal length. I agree it's better for one-person formal vertical portraits, but you still be cropping. and for candid portraits indoors 50 on DX is way too tight, 35mm may even be too tight for some indoors.

as far as slow zooms, shot stopped down in good light, they do perform. but so does every other camera even a modern point and shoot. and unsurprisingly, slow zoom DX photos don't look that different from high end point and shoot photos. so what's the point of the DX set up? proudly flashing the shiny nikon neck strap? just kidding : )

....

3 fast primes
1 decent bounce and swivel head flash
stop buying camera gear for 1 year
shoot 10,000 photos

you will grow SHOCKINGLY fast

I challenge you OP, to join us
if you are up for the journey
Click to expand...
James (and others), Thanks for your input. I have a trip to San Fran coming up next week. I will have a lot of opportunity to shoot. As part of your challenge I plan on using the 35mm 1.8prime exclusively. This should force some creativity and I think it will be a good learning experience. When i get back i will reassess.

I am also interested in the Sigma 17-50 2.8 at this point.

Also, James, i've read some of your other posts/responses on here. I noticed you dont argue in the "english thesis grammer" that most of the photographers here seem to use in debate..lolol
 
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