why no "blown pixel count" in (raw) viewfinder? Instead of histogram?

exdeejjjaaaa wrote: bracket, that's it... it is faster to bracket 3-5 shots for a natural light (even w/ a flash if you have a proper one and suitable powersource for it) than to spend time reviewing histograms during the shot
Why bother bracketing, if you have a blown raw pixel counter that gives you 100% confidence that you're never overexposing, as long as you keep that number just a little above zero?

Sure bracketing always has some value, especially if you plan to combine different exposures later to make a single post-processed image. But the whole point of a simple blown-pixel counter is to eliminate the need for bracketing and histograms and blinkies for most raw photographers, most of the time..
 
exdeejjjaaaa wrote: bracket, that's it... it is faster to bracket 3-5 shots for a natural light (even w/ a flash if you have a proper one and suitable powersource for it) than to spend time reviewing histograms
Jack Hogan wrote: Good idea. On the other hand with a moving grandchild... :-)
Or you guys could surrender to the Borg and admit that a blown raw pixel counter could quickly do a lot of what reviewing histograms or bracketing does, to prevent overexposure.

Jack, in general, in the digital era, the great reason to always make a raw file is that, when in doubt, just underexpose. Make the viewfinder image look kind of dim.

Darn it, just absolutely did not want to blow out the highlights on the model here...
Darn it, just absolutely did not want to blow out the highlights on the model here...

122db7109be44f2e88d78ae97ec4f678.jpg

...and was willing to spend 60 seconds or so in Lightroom to work with the "underexposed" image that did not lose 'em.

Underexposure is the best practice to most often end up with a reasonable result in high-dynamic-range scenes. And sometimes is even better than bracketing, in fluid scenes where every moment is different.
 
Jack Hogan wrote: 3) If the mean number of arriving photons is unchanged, wouldn't photon noise also be unchanged?
Yes. I (re)read Shot Noise and recalled that Shot Noise is significant with small signals, small numbers of photons being collected, therefore in the shadows. If shot noise is amplified (along with signal) by increasing gain, it becomes significant in the image.
Hi Tom,

The reference for noise in DSCs is this treatise by Professor Martinec, read it at your leasure. There you will find that light is statistical in nature and random noise is measured as the standard deviation of the mean signal. Noise inherent in natural light (photon/shot noise) follows poisson statistics, where the standard deviation is the square root of the mean (of the number of photons, the signal). So if the number of photons hitting a sensel (i.e. Exposure) is unchanged, so will its square root, shot noise.
Hi Jack,

Sorry for the delay. Non-photo activities have taken over for a while.

I have started on Martinec. Having trouble with "gain", but am over it as a little wrinkle.

Now I have two assignments on my plate:

1) Complete your assignment .

2) Complete my understanding of Russell, which is helped a lot by Christoph's clarification of context.
I am beginning to suspect that Russell comes from a background of OVFs with minimal metering/exposure info overlaid, whilst I am used to EVF's with lots of info in Liveview. That is the only way I can explain Russell's .... "Jack, in general, in the digital era, the great reason to always make a raw file is that, when in doubt, just underexpose . Make the viewfinder image look kind of dim." That goes against all of the stuff that I am learning (relearning?) regarding ETTR to maximize SNR, especially in the shadows.

Other stuff might take me away during the next few days. If you folks run this thread out I'll come back with something to the effect "Objective: Maximize the Quality of Information Captured", different from Russell's original thrust.

Many thanks. I shall return.

Tom

In the meantime below is some preliminary stuff .....
4) If ISO has only to do with processing the captured photoelectrons from the given unchanged Exposure, what happens to the full well count in stops when raising ISO from base to 400? To 800? Refer to the chart of the GX7 above.
Base ISO is said to be ISO 200 (I don't know why.)

ISO 200: FWC= 13501 electrons

ISO 400: FWC= 6663 electrons Diff= 6838

ISO 800: FWC= 3375 electrons Diff= 3288

Increasing the ISO by a stop decreases the FWC by ~1/2 .... which seems to be a pattern all of the way up the gain scale. Does that mean that since the capacity of the well is halved by each stop increase in ISO that a constant gain factor is applied at the sensel level as the ISO is increased stop by stop?
Right. Here is the table again for easy reference. Recall that Exposure is linear with the number of photons hitting a photosite, which is linear with the number of photoelectrons generated by it, which is linear with the Raw value written to the Raw file. The relationship is:

Raw Value Written (ADU) = NumberofPhotonsArrivingatphotosite x EffectiveQE x CameraGain.
Your CameraGain is reciprocal of Martinec's "g", eh? Your CameraGain is proportional to ISO.
So if 20k photons arrive at the photosite during the given Exposure (determined by scene, ss and aperture only), about 2780 electrons (20k*13.9%) will be captured by it. What value will be written to the Raw file?
igain = martinec g = reciprocal of CameraGain?

So divide 2780e- by 4.67e-/ADU to give 595 ADU for ISO 125. A binary number, corresponding to 595 decimal will be written to the raw file. 001001010011 would be written to the raw file corresponding to that particular photosite. Photosite better terminology than sensel?

Are those typical orders of magnitude #s for photon "flux" for a typical exposure?
Preliminary Approximate Values

Preliminary Approximate Values

That depends on the gain applied by the electronics downstream of the sensor, which is controlled by the ISO dial on your camera. If the camera was at base ISO (I believe 125 for the GX7) the inverse of gain would be 4.67 e-/ADU (see table, igain counterintuitive but so by convention).
OK!
So the Raw value written to the file would be approximately 595 ADU (= 2780e- / 4.67 e-/ADU).
Right.
If it was at ISO 800, 3390 ADU. If at ISO 1600 it would be clipping at this exposure, since the GX7 is a 12 bit camera and its maximum Raw value is 2^12-1.
Right. My GX7 returns 3954 as max Raw value in RawDigger. 141 (4095-3954) values reserved for what? Relate to a separate file to relate photosite location and ADU for that photosite?
The column mis-indicated as FWC represents the number of electrons that will result in clipping for each camera gain. It goes down because as you raise gain you reach clipping sooner, just like in the example above.
Right.
As you know in photography we tend to think in stops: 1 stop = a doubling/halving of the signal (Light/Exposure/number of photons/number of electrons aotbe). For example doubling exposure time from 1/100s to 1/50s will result in 1 additional stop of light aotbe [log2(2)]. Twice the aperture diameter = four times the area = 2 stops more light [log2(4)]. Hence the linear and quadratic relationship of EVs and time and f/# respectively.
OK
So if at camera ISO125 19126e- result in clipping, but at ISO400 only 6663e- do, that means that by increasing ISO from 125 to 400 the maximum signal we can record was
multiplied by a factor of 6663/19126 .... divided by a factor of 19126/6663 or 2.87
lowered by log2(19126/6663)= 1.52 stops.
That is what my widget came up with also (log2(2.87)).

Hmmm. 2^1.52 Takes me back to common logs and Napierian logs 60 years ago!!
If the noise 'floor' has remained unchanged, it follows that DR has dropped by that much.
??
5) So you have lost that many stops at the top end. What has happened at the same time to your engineering eDR?

6) And if it has dropped so much less, doesn't that mean that your deep shadows have improved by the difference?
But has the noise floor remained unchanged when increasing camera ISO from 125 to 400? It hasn't, for reasons that are the subject of another post:
and it is about here that I am in the weeds.

(To be continued)

t
Read Noise (that is the noise added by the sensor and camera electronics during capture) has improved from 5e- to 2.7e-, or +0.89 stops at the higher ISO. So raising ISO has resulted in a lower potential maximum signal recordable, but also a lower noise added and hence a lower minimun acceptable signal. Therefore DR has not dropped by -1.52 stops (looking at clipping only), but by +0.89 stops less, or a total of -0.63 stops as you can see in the relative column*
7) So if by raising ISO that way no desirable highlights were clipped, would your IQ maximizing good self feel compelled by his conscience to do it?
The question is why you would not do it if there are no desirable highlights that would clip: you lose nothing and you have lower noise in the deep shadows. A no brainer. Of course the answer would be different if the maximum desirable signal were higher, and increasing gain/ISO would cause it to be clipped.
From that moment on, in that exact setting, forget about camera settings and shoot away with abandon concentrating on composition and capturing the moment - confident that you are capturing the best quality information possible from the scene. If the scene conditions change, re-evaluate in light of the new situation.
AND THAT IS THE BEST PART!!!!! (it brings out the lil bit of artiste in this old f@rt engineer's soul!
Jack

* With your GX7, should you be increasing ISO past 800 given the table I posted earlier? Probably not, because the advantage you gain in lower noise is minimal compared to the loss of DR.
Makes sense!
Should you stop at ISO400? In non DR critical situations I would. Note that this last paragraph has nothing to do with Exposure, which a Manual shooter always evaluates and sets independently of ISO.
I always use exposure to be affected by scene luminance, f/, shutter interval. INDEPENDENT OF ISO.

So this last paragraph has to do with GAIN, the amount of boost the ADC is giving to the signal from the sensels. The more in-camera gain, the less gain required in later post raw conversion brightening.

Right?
Right!
So the next question becomes: assuming we start at base ISO with the max possible Exposure given artistic constraints, how high should one raise the ISO as long as no desirable highlights are clipped?

The answer is as high as the read noise keeps dropping meaningfully (it's for you to decide what meaningful is according to the situation): no more and maybe a little less because you don't want to come home and realize that you should have kept an additional stop of highlights which instead you gave up for a measly 0.2 stops better SNR in the deep shadows - what I think Russel was driving at earlier ;-)
Jack

PS. N, Y, Y, -1.5, -2.5, -0.8, -1.6, +0.7, +0.9, Y, heck yeah
*My question in the previous post was about eDR which is more correct, but I realize that's an unneeded complication at this stage. In that case the correct answers are above.
 
GeorgianBay1939 wrote: I am beginning to suspect that Russell comes from a background of OVFs with minimal metering/exposure info overlaid, whilst I am used to EVF's with lots of info in Liveview.
Some of us do not consider the, for example Sony Nex C3, readout of +EV0.3 or whatever hint as to "overexposure" to be worth looking at. How the heck does your camera know what exposure you want? The only way autoexposure or brightness evaluation could ever work for expose-to-the-right types is if you could tell the camera how many blown raw pixels to tolerate (or at least see the count of them).
That is the only way I can explain Russell's .... "Jack, in general, in the digital era, the great reason to always make a raw file is that, when in doubt, just underexpose . Make the viewfinder image look kind of dim." That goes against all of the stuff that I am learning (relearning?) regarding ETTR to maximize SNR, especially in the shadows.
Well did say "when in doubt" underexpose, did not say "you should always underexpose." Even when we would prefer to "expose to the right" (which means "expose the sensor to as much light as is practical" to minimize sensor noise significance), when the highlight details are ultra important

...you might choose to "underexpose", resulting in a somewhat dim viewfinder preview, to make assurance doubly sure. Now if one had a blown-raw-pixel counter there would be less need for such sub-optimal field practices.
...you might choose to "underexpose", resulting in a somewhat dim viewfinder preview, to make assurance doubly sure. Now if one had a blown-raw-pixel counter there would be less need for such sub-optimal field practices.
 
GeorgianBay1939 wrote: I am beginning to suspect that Russell comes from a background of OVFs with minimal metering/exposure info overlaid, whilst I am used to EVF's with lots of info in Liveview.
Some of us do not consider the, for example Sony Nex C3, readout of +EV0.3 or whatever hint as to "overexposure" to be worth looking at. How the heck does your camera know what exposure you want? The only way autoexposure or brightness evaluation could ever work for expose-to-the-right types is if you could tell the camera how many blown raw pixels to tolerate (or at least see the count of them).
That is the only way I can explain Russell's .... "Jack, in general, in the digital era, the great reason to always make a raw file is that, when in doubt, just underexpose . Make the viewfinder image look kind of dim." That goes against all of the stuff that I am learning (relearning?) regarding ETTR to maximize SNR, especially in the shadows.
Well did say "when in doubt" underexpose, did not say "you should always underexpose." Even when we would prefer to "expose to the right" (which means "expose the sensor to as much light as is practical" to minimize sensor noise significance), when the highlight details are ultra important

...you might choose to "underexpose", resulting in a somewhat dim viewfinder preview, to make assurance doubly sure. Now if one had a blown-raw-pixel counter there would be less need for such sub-optimal field practices.
...you might choose to "underexpose", resulting in a somewhat dim viewfinder preview, to make assurance doubly sure. Now if one had a blown-raw-pixel counter there would be less need for such sub-optimal field practices.
 
Jack Hogan wrote: If it was at ISO 800, 3390 ADU. If at ISO 1600 it would be clipping at this exposure, since the GX7 is a 12 bit camera and its maximum Raw value is 2^12-1.
Right. My GX7 returns 3954 as max Raw value in RawDigger. 141 (4095-3954) values reserved for what? Relate to a separate file to relate photosite location and ADU for that photosite?
Alright Tom, doing great! A simplified model to help understand things is:

1) A sensor with a noise floor producing a signal proportional to Exposure
2) The signal+noise from the sensor is amplified by a noiseless amplifier of gain controlled by the camera ISO dial
3) The amplified sensor+noise are fed to an ADC with its own noise floor (usually, but not always - ISOlessness is determined here) higher than the sensor's at base ISO gain.

How should camera designers determine gain at base ISO? They would want to match the lowest acceptable signal (let's call it signal 'zero') to no lower than the signal that the ADC would produce the value zero for, right? Perhaps even provide the ADC with slightly more than that to make sure they capture as much of the lowest signals as possible without mistakenly clipping shadows in the ADC. For your camera it appears that they decided that 'zero' should come out around level 141. So to get a zero value out of the ADC for an input of signal 'zero' Raw converter needs to subtract 141 from the raw data*. So if the highest value possible is 4095, what would that compute to after the subtraction? They can use a few of the levels below 141 for some smart processing (John Sheehy to the rescue).
The column mis-indicated as FWC represents the number of electrons that will result in clipping for each camera gain. It goes down because as you raise gain you reach clipping sooner, just like in the example above.
Right.
As you know in photography we tend to think in stops: 1 stop = a doubling/halving of the signal (Light/Exposure/number of photons/number of electrons aotbe). For example doubling exposure time from 1/100s to 1/50s will result in 1 additional stop of light aotbe [log2(2)]. Twice the aperture diameter = four times the area = 2 stops more light [log2(4)]. Hence the linear and quadratic relationship of EVs and time and f/# respectively.
OK
So if at camera ISO125 19126e- result in clipping, but at ISO400 only 6663e- do, that means that by increasing ISO from 125 to 400 the maximum signal we can record was
multiplied by a factor of 6663/19126 .... divided by a factor of 19126/6663 or 2.87
lowered by log2(19126/6663)= 1.52 stops.
That is what my widget came up with also (log2(2.87)).

Hmmm. 2^1.52 Takes me back to common logs and Napierian logs 60 years ago!!
If the noise 'floor' has remained unchanged, it follows that DR has dropped by that much.
??
The output of the photosite/sensel is 6663e- for the given exposure, that is 1.52 stops below saturation of the photosite. If I set camera gain by ISO125 the raw value will be 1427, which unsurprisingly is log2(1427/4095*) =-1.52 from clipping. So I have 1.52 stops of headroom (DR) on top of the current output for potentially higher signals before clipping.

Now the output of the photosite is still 6663e- with the same exposure, but this time I select ISO400. That will result in a 4097 Raw value (6663/1.63), virtually at clipping - so I have lost 1.5 stops of potential headroom (DR) compared to ISO125 because no signal can now be higher than the current output of the photosite without clipping. Has the noise floor of the sensor changed in these two examples? Has the signal?

No they haven't, just the gain has. And gain affects signal and noise, hence SNR and DR, equally. So we should have lost 1.5 stops of DR, pure and simple. But by analyzing the Raw data at the output of the ADC, it appears that the DR has dropped by less than that...

Jack

*This also means that my igain calculation is slightly off, 'cause I used 4095 as the clipping point to calculate it. Oops! But let's keep using it as is for now for clarity.
 
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GeorgianBay1939 wrote: I am beginning to suspect that Russell comes from a background of OVFs with minimal metering/exposure info overlaid, whilst I am used to EVF's with lots of info in Liveview.
Some of us do not consider the, for example Sony Nex C3, readout of +EV0.3 or whatever hint as to "overexposure" to be worth looking at. How the heck does your camera know what exposure you want? The only way autoexposure or brightness evaluation could ever work for expose-to-the-right types is if you could tell the camera how many blown raw pixels to tolerate (or at least see the count of them).
I also do not consider the readouts of EV to be particularly useful. Probably because the whole concept of metering is somewhat obscure to me (18%, mid tones, etc). It seems to be more applicable to JPEG shooters than RAW shooters.

I do, however, get a lot of scene luminance information when moving the spot meter around and watching the numbers move and the histogram dance. I use that "relative exposure" survey more often than anything else in selecting an optimal exposure (f/, ss).

The only current readouts of exposure that I consider to be reliable are the liveview histogram and the post exposure RGB&Y histograms. And even they are not that reliable considering their construction.

So for non-expert photographers (like myself) can't there be a live view direct indicator of exposure (informed by the RAW file) which is more general than an indicator that shows the % or # of blown highlights in a scene.

The histogram is a great indicator of scene luminance when used with a spot meter. The trouble is that it is informed by a minimal jpeg, constructed by in-camera hokey-poke-ness instead of direct (raw file) exposure of the sensor.

This has been probably been hashed and rehashed a zillion time.

So what is the hold up?
That is the only way I can explain Russell's .... "Jack, in general, in the digital era, the great reason to always make a raw file is that, when in doubt, just underexpose . Make the viewfinder image look kind of dim." That goes against all of the stuff that I am learning (relearning?) regarding ETTR to maximize SNR, especially in the shadows.
Well did say "when in doubt" underexpose, did not say "you should always underexpose." Even when we would prefer to "expose to the right" (which means "expose the sensor to as much light as is practical" to minimize sensor noise significance), when the highlight details are ultra important

...you might choose to "underexpose", resulting in a somewhat dim viewfinder preview, to make assurance doubly sure. Now if one had a blown-raw-pixel counter there would be less need for such sub-optimal field practices.
...you might choose to "underexpose", resulting in a somewhat dim viewfinder preview, to make assurance doubly sure. Now if one had a blown-raw-pixel counter there would be less need for such sub-optimal field practices.
Ok. I misunderstood.

Great image above.



Yesterday, I stopped for a few minutes to grab this (cliche) image by using my old technique to load the sensor optimally:

One shot, RAW, ETTR, Lightroom, high sun up to the left.
One shot, RAW, ETTR, Lightroom, high sun up to the left.



RawDigger:



[ATTACH alt="186k overexposed, 176k underexposed, Lightroom: shadows lifted, highlights dropped, "exposure" unchanged."]451136[/ATTACH]
186k overexposed, 176k underexposed, Lightroom: shadows lifted, highlights dropped, "exposure" unchanged.

I would love to be able to toggle an indicator like the above in LiveView while I twiddled my f/ and ss dials! I would still like my RGB&Y histogram when chimping.

Thanks for the clarification above.



t
 

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Jack Hogan wrote: If it was at ISO 800, 3390 ADU. If at ISO 1600 it would be clipping at this exposure, since the GX7 is a 12 bit camera and its maximum Raw value is 2^12-1.
Right. My GX7 returns 3954 as max Raw value in RawDigger. 141 (4095-3954) values reserved for what? Relate to a separate file to relate photosite location and ADU for that photosite?
Alright Tom, doing great! A simplified model to help understand things is:

1) A sensor with a noise floor producing a signal proportional to Exposure
The above "signal" includes photon noise.
2) The signal+noise from the sensor is amplified by a noiseless amplifier of gain controlled by the camera ISO dial
Right
3) The amplified sensor+noise are fed to an ADC with its own noise floor (usually, but not always - ISOlessness is determined here) higher than the sensor's at base ISO gain.
Noise floor So the ADC is adding noise to the total. Is this "read noise"? and is added (in "quadrature") to the embedded "shot" noise ?
How should camera designers determine gain at base ISO? They would want to match the lowest acceptable signal (let's call it signal 'zero') to no lower than the signal that the ADC would produce the value zero for, right?
Hmmmmm.

For each pixel (sensel, photosite):

Gain (amplification of a photosite voltage prior to the ADC) needs to be

1. variable to accommodate the photographers desire to change his ISO. The more the ISO the more the G gain (as opposed to the "g" (= 1/G) gain that Martinec and others use.)

2. constant at some base value when the ISO is twiddled to the "base" number.

"match the lowest acceptable signal (let's call it signal 'zero') to no lower than the signal that the ADC would produce the value zero for"

is addling my brain, first thing in the morning, even before breakfast!!

Lowest acceptable signal?

signal that the ADC would produce the value zero for?

?? I need to visualize the above better.... martinec? but onwards! .....
Perhaps even provide the ADC with slightly more than that to make sure they capture as much of the lowest signals as possible without mistakenly clipping shadows in the ADC. For your camera it appears that they decided that 'zero' should come out around level 141. So to get a zero value out of the ADC for an input of signal 'zero' Raw converter needs to subtract 141 from the raw data*. So if the highest value possible is 4095, what would that compute to after the subtraction? They can use a few of the levels below 141 for some smart processing (John Sheehy to the rescue).
Simplistically, so that I an get on with it ... the 141 is a "calibration factor" in the ADC to give some room in ADC to avoid clipping shadows .... or something to that effect.

The Raw converter above is the software Raw converter, like Lightroom?

SHEESH! Gotta run. I shall return! Hopefully later today, perhaps not until tomorrow am.

This is a great antidote to watching news from Toronto, eh? :-(

Later,

t
The column mis-indicated as FWC represents the number of electrons that will result in clipping for each camera gain. It goes down because as you raise gain you reach clipping sooner, just like in the example above.
Right.
As you know in photography we tend to think in stops: 1 stop = a doubling/halving of the signal (Light/Exposure/number of photons/number of electrons aotbe). For example doubling exposure time from 1/100s to 1/50s will result in 1 additional stop of light aotbe [log2(2)]. Twice the aperture diameter = four times the area = 2 stops more light [log2(4)]. Hence the linear and quadratic relationship of EVs and time and f/# respectively.
OK
So if at camera ISO125 19126e- result in clipping, but at ISO400 only 6663e- do, that means that by increasing ISO from 125 to 400 the maximum signal we can record was
multiplied by a factor of 6663/19126 .... divided by a factor of 19126/6663 or 2.87
lowered by log2(19126/6663)= 1.52 stops.
That is what my widget came up with also (log2(2.87)).

Hmmm. 2^1.52 Takes me back to common logs and Napierian logs 60 years ago!!
If the noise 'floor' has remained unchanged, it follows that DR has dropped by that much.
??
The output of the photosite/sensel is 6663e- for the given exposure, that is 1.52 stops below saturation of the photosite. If I set camera gain by ISO125 the raw value will be 1427, which unsurprisingly is log2(1427/4095*) =-1.52 from clipping. So I have 1.52 stops of headroom (DR) on top of the current output for potentially higher signals before clipping.

Now the output of the photosite is still 6663e- with the same exposure, but this time I select ISO400. That will result in a 4097 Raw value (6663/1.63), virtually at clipping - so I have lost 1.5 stops of potential headroom (DR) compared to ISO125 because no signal can now be higher than the current output of the photosite without clipping. Has the noise floor of the sensor changed in these two examples? Has the signal?

No they haven't, just the gain has. And gain affects signal and noise, hence SNR and DR, equally. So we should have lost 1.5 stops of DR, pure and simple. But by analyzing the Raw data at the output of the ADC, it appears that the DR has dropped by less than that...

Jack

*This also means that my igain calculation is slightly off, 'cause I used 4095 as the clipping point to calculate it. Oops! But let's keep using it as is for now for clarity.
 
can't there be a live view direct indicator of exposure (informed by the RAW file) which is more general than an indicator that shows the % or # of blown highlights in a scene.
The intent of this thread is to not have the better be the enemy of the good enough. Would be so happy to have the blown pixel counter, even though of course blinkies, more histograms etc would be even nicer, that am proposing that camera manufacturers give us such a counter--if the blinkies, histograms etc are just too much too ask.
The histogram is a great indicator of scene luminance when used with a spot meter. The trouble is that it is informed by a minimal jpeg, constructed by in-camera hokey-poke-ness instead of direct (raw file) exposure of the sensor.
Now that you mention it, why isn't there a simple firmware option to have the on-screen live histogram show raw data, instead of JPEG data, whether you are recording raw files or not? As long as the default histogram is left unchanged, who in the world would be harmed by such an option.
 
can't there be a live view direct indicator of exposure (informed by the RAW file) which is more general than an indicator that shows the % or # of blown highlights in a scene.
The intent of this thread is to not have the better be the enemy of the good enough. Would be so happy to have the blown pixel counter, even though of course blinkies, more histograms etc would be even nicer, that am proposing that camera manufacturers give us such a counter--if the blinkies, histograms etc are just too much too ask.
The histogram is a great indicator of scene luminance when used with a spot meter. The trouble is that it is informed by a minimal jpeg, constructed by in-camera hokey-poke-ness instead of direct (raw file) exposure of the sensor.
Now that you mention it, why isn't there a simple firmware option to have the on-screen live histogram show raw data, instead of JPEG data, whether you are recording raw files or not? As long as the default histogram is left unchanged, who in the world would be harmed by such an option.
Russell: "who in the world would be harmed by such an option."

NOT ME! :-D

t
 
Jack,

This is a re-reply to your http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/52518108

I think that I am getting there. My photography will tell whether or not "I've got it"!

Had a couple of nice days. Managed to sneak away for a bit to capture some of it.

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/52542334

This has been a very instructive session for me. Thank you very much.

I am left with two burning questions, though.
  1. Hsat in the table, measured in Lux-seconds appears to be the exposure (luminance, f/, ss) that will generate full sensors at the appropriate ISO settings. So there must be a relationship between H (in lux seconds) and photons (per area?). Is that relationship available on the internet.
  2. eDR eludes me. Again, can you please point me out to a link?
Many thanks, for your help!

Tom
Jack Hogan wrote: 3) If the mean number of arriving photons is unchanged, wouldn't photon noise also be unchanged?
Yes. I (re)read Shot Noise and recalled that Shot Noise is significant with small signals, small numbers of photons being collected, therefore in the shadows. If shot noise is amplified (along with signal) by increasing gain, it becomes significant in the image.
Hi Tom,

The reference for noise in DSCs is this treatise by Professor Martinec, read it at your leasure.
Working through it. Great stuff!
There you will find that light is statistical in nature and random noise is measured as the standard deviation of the mean signal. Noise inherent in natural light (photon/shot noise) follows poisson statistics, where the standard deviation is the square root of the mean (of the number of photons, the signal). So if the number of photons hitting a sensel (i.e. Exposure) is unchanged, so will its square root, shot noise.
4) If ISO has only to do with processing the captured photoelectrons from the given unchanged Exposure, what happens to the full well count in stops when raising ISO from base to 400? To 800? Refer to the chart of the GX7 above.
Base ISO is said to be ISO 200 (I don't know why.)

ISO 200: FWC= 13501 electrons

ISO 400: FWC= 6663 electrons Diff= 6838

ISO 800: FWC= 3375 electrons Diff= 3288

Increasing the ISO by a stop decreases the FWC by ~1/2 .... which seems to be a pattern all of the way up the gain scale. Does that mean that since the capacity of the well is halved by each stop increase in ISO that a constant gain factor is applied at the sensel level as the ISO is increased stop by stop?
Right. Here is the table again for easy reference. Recall that Exposure is linear with the number of photons hitting a photosite, which is linear with the number of photoelectrons generated by it, which is linear with the Raw value written to the Raw file. The relationship is:

Raw Value Written (ADU) = NumberofPhotonsArrivingatphotosite x EffectiveQE x CameraGain. So if 20k photons arrive at the photosite during the given Exposure (determined by scene, ss and aperture only), about 2780 electrons (20k*13.9%) will be captured by it. What value will be written to the Raw file?

Preliminary Approximate Values

Preliminary Approximate Values

That depends on the gain applied by the electronics downstream of the sensor, which is controlled by the ISO dial on your camera. If the camera was at base ISO (I believe 125 for the GX7) the inverse of gain would be 4.67 e-/ADU (see table, igain counterintuitive but so by convention). So the Raw value written to the file would be approximately 595 ADU (= 2780e- / 4.67 e-/ADU). If it was at ISO 800, 3390 ADU. If at ISO 1600 it would be clipping at this exposure, since the GX7 is a 12 bit camera and its maximum Raw value is 2^12-1.
OK
The column mis-indicated as FWC represents the number of electrons that will result in clipping for each camera gain. It goes down because as you raise gain you reach clipping sooner, just like in the example above.
Ok, now!
As you know in photography we tend to think in stops: 1 stop = a doubling/halving of the signal (Light/Exposure/number of photons/number of electrons aotbe). For example doubling exposure time from 1/100s to 1/50s will result in 1 additional stop of light aotbe [log2(2)]. Twice the aperture diameter = four times the area = 2 stops more light [log2(4)]. Hence the linear and quadratic relationship of EVs and time and f/# respectively.
Ok
So if at camera ISO125 19126e- result in clipping, but at ISO400 only 6663e- do, that means that by increasing ISO from 125 to 400 the maximum signal we can record was lowered by log2(19126/6663)= 1.52 stops.
OK
If the noise 'floor' has remained unchanged, it follows that DR has dropped by that much.
OK. But it doesn't, as seen in the above table. It only dropped by (11.9-11.3 =) 0.6 stops. So the noise floor has changed by ~.9 stops?
5) So you have lost that many stops at the top end. What has happened at the same time to your engineering eDR?

6) And if it has dropped so much less, doesn't that mean that your deep shadows have improved by the difference?
But has the noise floor remained unchanged when increasing camera ISO from 125 to 400? It hasn't, for reasons that are the subject of another post:
The noise floor is affected by the change in Read Noise in going from ISO125 to ISO400.
Read Noise (that is the noise added by the sensor and camera electronics during capture) has improved from 5e- to 2.7e-, or +0.89 stops at the higher ISO.
5/2.7 = .89stops (this is the improvement in read noise between 125:400 ISO)

125 ISO Read Noise of 5 leads to a DR of 19126/5 = 3825.2 =11.9stops

400 ISO Read Noise of 2.7 leads to a DR of 6663/2.7= 2467.7 = 11.27stops
So raising ISO has resulted in a lower potential maximum signal recordable, but also a lower noise added and hence a lower minimun acceptable signal.
I'm trying to visualize comparing the ISO125 wells with the ISO400 wells:

The upper level of the well has been DECREASED from 19,126 to 6663 e- (a total of -1.52stops)

The floor of the well has been ALSO DECREASED LOWERING THE NOISE by 5e- to 2.7e- (a total of +.89stops) resulting in a net (due to the effects of clipping + effects of decreased Read Noise) change of 0.63stops.

Low signals that were below the floor of the ISO125 well are now detectable ... since the floor of the ISO400 well is (.89stops) lower.
Therefore DR has not dropped by -1.52 stops (looking at clipping only), but by +0.89 stops less, or a total of -0.63 stops as you can see in the relative column*
19126/6663=2.87= -1.52stops due to clipping only

Noise floor has improved by +0.89stops so The Net Drop in DR is (-1.52 + 0.89) or -0.63stops

[ If the read noise proportion of FWC, (e- ), were to stay constant as ISO changes, the only effect on DR would be the effect of clipping. So there would be no advantage in increasing ISO (from the point of view of SNR, only.) This would be the ISO-less or ISO invariant camera, where changes in ISO don't change read noise. I suppose that the contribution of noise from the analogue amplifier would be minimal, leaving all of the noise generation to the sensel and other electronics independent of the gain amplifiers.]
7) So if by raising ISO that way no desirable highlights were clipped, would your IQ maximizing good self feel compelled by his conscience to do it?
The question is why you would not do it if there are no desirable highlights that would clip: you lose nothing and you have lower noise in the deep shadows.
With a NON ISO-less camera like the GX7:

Sooooooo. Trade-off (as is usual):

IF I am concerned about highlight clipping I would minimize ISO (to minimize clipping due to gain).

If I am not concerned about highlight clipping but more about noise in the deep shadows, I would increase ISO to lower the floor of the sensels as low as possible. I would be trading off DR for a low noise floor. If I didn't need DR I would give it up for a lower noise floor.

BUT (subject to motion blur, DOF) increasing exposure (f/,ss, scene luminance) up to the point of oversaturation of the sensels by the highlights would lead to optimal exposure.
A no brainer. Of course the answer would be different if the maximum desirable signal were higher, and increasing gain/ISO would cause it to be clipped.
From that moment on, in that exact setting, forget about camera settings and shoot away with abandon concentrating on composition and capturing the moment - confident that you are capturing the best quality information possible from the scene. If the scene conditions change, re-evaluate in light of the new situation.
AND THAT IS THE BEST PART!!!!! (it brings out the lil bit of artiste in this old f@rt engineer's soul!
Jack

* With your GX7, should you be increasing ISO past 800 given the table I posted earlier? Probably not, because the advantage you gain in lower noise is minimal compared to the loss of DR.
Makes sense!
Should you stop at ISO400? In non DR critical situations I would. Note that this last paragraph has nothing to do with Exposure, which a Manual shooter always evaluates and sets independently of ISO.
I always use exposure to be affected by scene luminance, f/, shutter interval. INDEPENDENT OF ISO.

So this last paragraph has to do with GAIN, the amount of boost the ADC is giving to the signal from the sensels. The more in-camera gain, the less gain required in later post raw conversion brightening.

Right?
Right!
So the next question becomes: assuming we start at base ISO with the max possible Exposure given artistic constraints, how high should one raise the ISO as long as no desirable highlights are clipped?
I am visualizing a low light condition where I don't need a lot of DR. I can't open up f/ due to DOF, and I can't lengthen Shutter interval due to motion blur. No flash/lighting. Shooting RAW.

Looking at the histogram I have a big hump on the left and a very important highlight spike that is well left of the right edge.

I leave the exposure as is, in (M)anual mode and gradually increase ISO. That moves the histogram spike to the right, increases the brightness of the EVF. When I hit (say) ISO 1600 the highlight spike hits the edge. I back off to ISO 800, realizing that the "relative to FWC" Read Noise are not that different (2.3e- vs 2.1). So I shoot at ISO800, chimp to make sure that RGB channels are all ok, and take my image home to make a masterpiece in LightRoom.

If I have lots of light and/or need lots of DR I will be shooting at BASE ISO.

If I have lots of light and need more DR I will shoot a bracket using exposure bracketing.

If I have little light (limiting an increase in exposure) and need more DR, I can only bring out the shadows by using ISO bracketing, I think. Haven't ever had the need to do that, probably because motion blur could be better stopped by a tripod.
The answer is as high as the read noise keeps dropping meaningfully (it's for you to decide what meaningful is according to the situation): no more and maybe a little less because you don't want to come home and realize that you should have kept an additional stop of highlights which instead you gave up for a measly 0.2 stops better SNR in the deep shadows - what I think Russel was driving at earlier ;-)
I am pretty sure that I get it now.
Jack

PS. N, Y, Y, -1.5, -2.5, -0.8, -1.6, +0.7, +0.9, Y, heck yeah
*My question in the previous post was about eDR which is more correct, but I realize that's an unneeded complication at this stage. In that case the correct answers are above.
Many thanks, Jack.

Tom
 
Had a couple of nice days. Managed to sneak away for a bit to capture some of it.

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/52542334
Very nice set Tom
This has been a very instructive session for me. Thank you very much.
Welcome, you've done great
I am left with two burning questions, though.
  1. Hsat in the table, measured in Lux-seconds appears to be the exposure (luminance, f/, ss) that will generate full sensors at the appropriate ISO settings. So there must be a relationship between H (in lux seconds) and photons (per area?). Is that relationship available on the internet.
Yes, but not all in one place. You could spend the day with wikipedia starting with radiant exposure and irradiance, which is pretty self explanatory for an engineer, and work through all the mind boggling unit switches to get from radiometric to photometric quantities and luminous exposure. On the other hand the end result is nicely summarized by DxO in this page.

1) They actually measure saturation exposure of the sensor (Hsat in lx-s) at different camera-ISO settings by illuminating it without a lens - and present it in their data as 'Measured ISO' Ssat = 78 / Hsat. So if we have Ssat, we can reverse engineer Hsat. And, after your day with wikipedia, you can determine how many photons correspond to that as shown inthis picture


The hard part is coming up with the constant q1 :-) Since Exposure in this discussion is referred to the sensor plane and the illuminant is supposed to be on axis, T, V and the cosine can be considered to be 1. Eph is simply hc/lambda. So what's the power spectrum of your illuminant?

2) But there is a shortcut I've been using: leafing through Nakamura we find that the spectral power distribution of a blackbody radiator of a given temperature will result in a certain number of photons being emitted per lx-s per unit area per second. In fact the number is fairly constant in the 4500-6500 deg. K range and corresponds to about 13000 photons/lx-s/micron squared ( I use 13366 but really...). Conveniently DxO measures Hsat's illuminance with 'Daylight' calibrated lamps which I take to mean about 5000K of D50ish spectrum . It would make little difference if they were at 5500K.

From here it's easy to calculate the number of photons impinging on a photosite at various ISOs and light intensities, since we know its area, its saturation exposure and that it behaves approximately linearly. Surprisingly (to me), the number of photons calculated in 1) and 2) are approximately the same :-)
2. eDR eludes me. Again, can you please point me out to a link?
Many links that describe DR (again wikipedia is our friend), but it is hard to find one that puts it in a photographic context. ejmartin's pages are probably your best bet. In a nutshell:

Dynamic Range = Maximum Signal / Minimum Acceptable Signal

It is expressed in log2 format (stops) or in dB.

Different applications have different minimum acceptable signals. For Engineering DR (sometimes expressed eDR around here) the minimum acceptable signal is typically that for which SNR=1 (or 0 dB) - that is the signal is equal to the total noise.

Ignoring pattern noise, what are the components of random noise around SNR=1? That would be shot noise and read out noise, adding in quadrature (total noise^2 = shot noise^2 + read noise^2). But because the signal at those levels in a modern sensor is typically quite low, some folks take the shortcut of ignoring shot noise and calculate DR as Max Signal /Read Noise. Not a huge difference.

Let's take a look at your GX7 for instance. FWC at base ISO is about 19126e- and Read noise 5e-, so the signal for SNR=1 must be 5.5 e- (solving the quadratic equation).

That means that eDR = log2(19126/5.5) = 11.76 stops, while shortcut DR is log2(19126/5) = 11.90. DxO calculates eDR, sensorgen takes the shortcut.

However we are photographers, not photosite engineers. And for most photographers SNR=1 is too noisy to be acceptable. So when evaluating cameras as opposed to photosites, Bill Claff (bclaff around here) has come up with a very sensible metric called Photographic Dynamic Range (PDR), which tends to give an estimate of usable dynamic range to your typical photogapher looking at an 8x12" image at arm's length. In most cases it is about 3 stops lower than DxO's 'Print' DR. If interested you can read more about PDR here .

Jack
 

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In this ordinary (complex mixed lighting) tourist-type photo, as long as the white t-shirt reads as white, the additional color accuracy that might have been added by photographing a full color chart wouldn't have amounted to a hill of beans.
In this ordinary (complex mixed lighting) tourist-type photo, as long as the white t-shirt reads as white, the additional color accuracy that might have been added by photographing a full color chart wouldn't have amounted to a hill of beans.
Your image is a prime example of why making a white shirt white at one point does not give the correct colors. Your image has a very strong yellow cast, including the skin tones. The sky ranges from cyan to magenta.

You need a calibrated monitor and a normal color vision if the one number does not do it right.

--
Kind regards
Kaj
WSSA member #13
It's about time we started to take photography seriously and treat it as a hobby.- Elliott Erwitt
 
Maybe many of us don't really need a full exposure histogram in our viewfinders. For example would prefer an option to just show me 3 numbers in the corner of the viewfinder, simply describing the percentage of blown-out red, green and blue pixels at the current exposure setting. See http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/52447035
I think that for 95% of the photos I take, such an indication would suffice. And in those photos I would certainly prefer a simple indication of the number of blown raw values instead of JPG based blinkies.

For the last 5% I would need to know where in the photo the clipping occurs. Here, the blinkies are a help - but a very poor help since they are based on JPG instead of raw.

But one warning:

After examining some of my photos with Rawdigger I have discovered that I quite frequently blow one raw channel without ever discovering it. It seems that Lightroom is so good at reconstructing the blown channel from information in the two other channels that I don't get any noticeable loss of information. So I have actually started to rely on this. I prefer one blown channel over underexposed shadows.

This means that a simple count of blown raw values may not be enough. In many cases you would need a count of blown raw values in areas where raw values in another channel were also blown.
 
RussellInCincinnati wrote: Maybe many of us don't really need a full exposure histogram in our viewfinders. For example would prefer an option to just show me 3 numbers in the corner of the viewfinder, simply describing the percentage of blown-out red, green and blue pixels at the current exposure setting. See http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/52447035
Or heck even just a counter of how many raw pixels are blown out high, of the brightest color.
Allan Olesen wrote: I think that for 95% of the photos I take, such an indication would suffice. And in those photos I would certainly prefer a simple indication of the number of blown raw values instead of JPG based blinkies.
A kindred spirit.
For the last 5% I would need to know where in the photo the clipping occurs. Here, the blinkies are a help - but a very poor help since they are based on JPG instead of raw.
Well am sure the people talking up blinkies in the live view, are imagining raw pixel blinkies, whenever the camera is set to record raw files.
But one warning: After examining some of my photos with Rawdigger I have discovered that I quite frequently blow one raw channel without ever discovering it. It seems that Lightroom is so good at reconstructing the blown channel from information in the two other channels that I don't get any noticeable loss of information. So I have actually started to rely on this. I prefer one blown channel over underexposed shadows.
This had not occurred to me. It is certainly credible that you could lose a channel and still have plenty of highlight detail resolution these days.
This means that a simple count of blown raw values may not be enough. In many cases you would need a count of blown raw values in areas where raw values in another channel were also blown.
Beautiful. That would indeed be a great option. Show me a count of the really badly blown pixels, the count of regions where at least 2 colors are blown out, rather than a somewhat less important count of the not-too-problematic one-color-missing, partly-blown-out regions.
 
In this ordinary (complex mixed lighting) tourist-type photo, as long as the white t-shirt reads as white, the additional color accuracy that might have been added by photographing a full color chart wouldn't have amounted to a hill of beans.
In this ordinary (complex mixed lighting) tourist-type photo, as long as the white t-shirt reads as white, the additional color accuracy that might have been added by photographing a full color chart wouldn't have amounted to a hill of beans.
Kaj E. Your image is a prime example of why making a white shirt white at one point does not give the correct colors. Your image has a very strong yellow cast,
Hmm, you are saying the white t-shirt has a very strong yellow cast? Nope, think you're wrong, the white t-shirt shown in this photo really was a white t-shirt. (by the way the color balance was set from a WhiBal card, it was not set from the t-shirt). And you are probably not aware of the rather "strong" skin color of the Chilean citizens shown here, more on that below.

It is more likely that the illness you perceive is the color saturation of the photo.There really is not wrong/yellow color balance falseness in the foreground of the above image. Which is not to say I have set other aspects of the photo the way you might prefer. Try this other version, same color balance, different saturation.

[ATTACH alt="These people really are "that yellow." "]451149[/ATTACH]
These people really are "that yellow."

By the way, here is another photo of these models at quite a different time of the same year. Did I mistakenly give them the wrong "strong yellow cast" here too?

Even in winter.
Even in winter.
including the skin tones. The sky ranges from cyan to magenta.
And what exactly is "correct" color balance in a scene with mixed illuminants. My overall point was not that the above photo had exactly the one color balance that everyone would agree was perfect. The point is that when you're not in a photo studio, real world scenes so often have mixed-color illuminants that there is no one "perfect" color balance in any case. And thus have not found the fine calibration tuning that can be derived from fooling around with photographing a many-color-patch target, in the field with mixed light sources, buys you anything anyone cares about.
You need a calibrated monitor and a normal color vision if the one number does not do it right.
Not sure what you are saying here.
 

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Kaj E. Your image is a prime example of why making a white shirt white at one point does not give the correct colors. Your image has a very strong yellow cast,
Hmm, you are saying the white t-shirt has a very strong yellow cast?
No, he is not. He is saying that making the t-shirt white was not enough to remove the yellow color cast on the other parts of the scene.

And I agree. These persons are more yellow in this photo than in the other example you showed, where they are more "clean brownish".
 
RussellInCincinnati: But realistically, when doing anything but precise copy-photography of artwork, or product photography for an art director, nobody cares about having a color balance better than what you get by simply setting the white balance curves off a single snapshot of a white card.

In this ordinary (complex mixed lighting) tourist-type photo, as long as the white t-shirt reads as white, the additional color accuracy that might have been added by photographing a full color chart wouldn't have amounted to a hill of beans.
In this ordinary (complex mixed lighting) tourist-type photo, as long as the white t-shirt reads as white, the additional color accuracy that might have been added by photographing a full color chart wouldn't have amounted to a hill of beans.
Kaj E. Your image is a prime example of why making a white shirt white at one point does not give the correct colors. Your image has a very strong yellow cast,
RussellInCincinnati wrote: Hmm, you are saying the white t-shirt has a very strong yellow cast?
Allan Olesen wrote: No, he is not. He is saying that making the t-shirt white was not enough to remove the yellow color cast on the other parts of the scene. And I agree. These persons are more yellow in this photo than in the other example you showed, where they are more "clean brownish".
And a photo of a single flat color chart, used to calibrate the camera sensor response in greater detail to the precise light falling on the color chart held in a certain place at a certain angle, would have been justified to make this photo noticeably better to an ordinary viewer? More so than just playing a bit more with, say color saturation as I posted previously?

Again my original point was that in the field taking pictures of ordinary mixed-illuminant scenes, have not found calibration off of photos of many-color-patches targets being worth the trouble. For example, I don't feel that using a color target would have made all the colors of my posted scene significantly better than just playing a bit with white balance and/or saturation of the color in ordinary post-processing.

If you Kaj E or Allan instead feel that photographing complex color targets give you useful/noticeably better photos of ordinary scenes, perhaps it would be more relevant and meaningful for you to post before/after counter-examples of scenes where the color target photo did something worth its trouble.
 
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RussellInCincinnati said:
Member said:
RussellInCincinnati said:
View attachment 5450609
In this ordinary (complex mixed lighting) tourist-type photo, as long as the white t-shirt reads as white, the additional color accuracy that might have been added by photographing a full color chart wouldn't have amounted to a hill of beans.
Kaj E. Your image is a prime example of why making a white shirt white at one point does not give the correct colors. Your image has a very strong yellow cast,
Hmm, you are saying the white t-shirt has a very strong yellow cast? Nope, think you're wrong, the white t-shirt shown in this photo really was a white t-shirt. (by the way the color balance was set from a WhiBal card, it was not set from the t-shirt)....
No it's not a matter of saturation, your desaturated image still had the yellow color cast. You should not set the bluest color to white, particularly not in mixed lighting. It will give you a yellow cast. As I said it is not only the skin. Look at the sky and the other parts of the photo.

Here is a quick and dirty edit, which although in no way perfect, I think is overall closer to the truth:



As you probably can see the shadow part of the white T-shirt still has the yellow/brown cat in the shadow. With mixed lighting you need to select what looks right.
Member said:
By the way, here is another photo of these models at quite a different time of the same year. Did I mistakenly give them the wrong "strong yellow cast" here too?

View attachment 5450611
Even in winter.
Member said:
including the skin tones. The sky ranges from cyan to magenta.
And what exactly is "correct" color balance in a scene with mixed illuminants. My overall point was not that the above photo had exactly the one color balance that everyone would agree was perfect. The point is that when you're not in a photo studio, real world scenes so often have mixed-color illuminants that there is no one "perfect" color balance in any case. And thus have not found the fine calibration tuning that can be derived from fooling around with photographing a many-color-patch target, in the field with mixed light sources, buys you anything anyone cares about.
Another example of an image with a yellow cast, although not as strong as in the first example. In mixed lighting and you should not in an outdoor scene necessarily set the bluest tone in the highlights to be neutral. Another quick and dirty edit:


Member said:
Member said:
You need a calibrated monitor and a normal color vision if the one number does not do it right.
Not sure what you are saying here.
I am saying that in mixed lighting outdoors you cannot rely on a single point for white balance by the numbers. You need to look at the image on a calibrated monitor. Photos are made to look at.

Many times you need to adjust white balance selectively in different part of the image (which I have not done here) to get the colors closer to right in a situation outside the studio. This requires a calibrated monitor and normal color vision. I you are color blind it is much trickier.

--
Kind regards
Kaj
Galleries by Kaj E
WSSA member #13
It's about time we started to take photography seriously and treat it as a hobby.- Elliott Erwitt
 
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Russell, I agree with you that shooting color patches for camera calibration is most useful in studio conditions. Even there if your camera has color adjustment possibilities or if it happens to be right out of the box in a "neutral" profile I have not really found shooting color patches important. A calibrated monitor and normal color vision is essential to getting things "right" for typical photographic reasons.
 

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