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E-M1 Focus Peaking

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Peter Heckert2 said:
Peter Heckert2 wrote:

At 12mm & f/3.5 the hyperfocal distance is about 3m.
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Thanks. I had forgotten about that variable.

I did try doing something where had a tree right in front of me on a path. I set the focal point on the tree and on the path to try to see the change. I should have upped the aperture to 8.0 or something.

I will try to remember to try that today. All these new variables I never considered with my FZ200. Lots of fun new stuff to learn. Thanks for helping. :-)
 
LTZ470 said:
Set to S-AF MF…when you get the green box AF then turn the manual focus ring on the lens and adjust the white peaking to the exact focal point you desire then fully press shutter...
Click to expand...
In practice I am using this feature to confirm that Auto Focus has selected what I wanted it to select when I aim the green box and half press the shutter.

This makes me wonder, when I very slightly move the focus ring to activate focus peaking, am I also very slightly reducing the amount of focus that the auto focus had set? Is there a bit of give before you actually start changing the focus or do I need to move it back just that little bit to make it precise again?
 
Guy Parsons said:
Guy Parsons said:
Guy Parsons said:
, matrix metering
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Don't know exactly what that means.
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Matrix metering is the common name for the complex ways of dividing the frame into sections and evaluating them separately and making automated metering decisions based on ratio of bright to dark spots. In Oly land the name is ESP metering. That plus watching the blinkies (Highlight & Shadow warnings) and adjusting Exposure Compensation is way better than peering at annoying histograms.
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Thanks for this explanation. The manual recommended the ESP setting so that is what I have been using but I didn't understand why until I read your message.
Guy Parsons said:
I'm 72 so possibly(?) a bit ahead of you and am busy spending the kids' inheritance.
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By about 20 years. I still have a ways to go until retirement. I'm hoping that by then I will actually be somewhat talented at this craft. Of course, by then cameras may be so advanced that a lot of the skills I am learned will be obsolete.
Guy Parsons said:
In other words, each to his own. And "dropping back" to some simpler camera or method of operation is a good idea if the whole thing becomes a pain.
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At the moment I'm taking it one step at a time. Trying just enough new stuff to keep things interesting, but not so much to be overwhelmed.
Guy Parsons said:
So, carry on learning and experimenting and please try to take way too many shots !Regards.... Guy
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I definitely did that on this trip. I figured I could sort them out when I got home. I wish there were an easy way to keep track of what I tried on each shot. Not everything I try is reflected in the EXIF data by the time I get around to reviewing the photos I often forget what I was up to.
 
Peter Heckert2 said:
Just consider what pocus peaking does: It displays the pixels that have strongest contrast.
In an image with shallow DOF usually (not necessarily) the strongest contrast between neighbour pixels is at the focus distance.

If the DOF is very deep, this is not necessarily the case. Pixels that are not at the focus distance can have stronger contrast than those at the focus distance. This depends from illumination and
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Misleading in what way? Telling me that something will be in focus when it won't?
 
Florida Nature Photographer said:
LTZ470 said:
Set to S-AF MF…when you get the green box AF then turn the manual focus ring on the lens and adjust the white peaking to the exact focal point you desire then fully press shutter...
Click to expand...
In practice I am using this feature to confirm that Auto Focus has selected what I wanted it to select when I aim the green box and half press the shutter.

This makes me wonder, when I very slightly move the focus ring to activate focus peaking, am I also very slightly reducing the amount of focus that the auto focus had set? Is there a bit of give before you actually start changing the focus or do I need to move it back just that little bit to make it precise again?
Click to expand...
 
LTZ470 said:
So when you do execute FP while looking in view finder turn to left slightly first and see if the Focus Peaking "White" increases some…but go to right as well past focal point and then back to left and find the ultimate Focus Peaking adjustment then shoot
Click to expand...
Thanks for the clarification.
LTZ470 said:
especially for still subjects, one could also use focus peaking and stack photos by adjusting focus peaking at different depths on subject then stacking the photos with software
Click to expand...
Interesting idea.
LTZ470 said:
, I have never tried it, but I know it would be possible on a still subject I.E. an Old Barn or Landscape...

Hope I don't sound confusing…sometimes I do…
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Not at all. This was very clear. Now I will have confidence that I am doing it correctly. Thanks.

Florida
 
Florida Nature Photographer said:
So, having successfully completed yesterday's lesson I pushed the envelope a bit farther today. I turned Magnify on. And I don't get it. To me the advantage of the peaking is that you can see what parts of your image are in focus.

When you magnify it zeros in on one part of the image and you can't see what else is in focus.

What am I missing this time?
Click to expand...
O.K. I get it now. I have the top button on the front of the camera set to magnify.

I press the button once and it chooses an area of the image. I can point the camera somewhere else to change that.

Then I press the button again and it zooms in on that area.

From there I can use auto focus or manual focus to get the EXACT small part of the image that I want in focus.

This is great!

One thing though. Focus peaking doesn't seem to work when I'm doing zoom. Is that normal?
 
Problem...
  1. Press magnify fn button
  2. Point at desired area
  3. Press magnify fn button again
  4. Fine tune focus area in zoom mode
  5. Half press shutter to auto focus
  6. While attempting to maintain half press of focus press magnify fn button to zoom back out
  7. Compose shot with desired target in best focus
  8. Press shutter (it re-auto focuses based on the current compostion) Argh!!
Do I have to have it on pure manual focus to do this? I've tried multiple times and not been able to accomplish this.
 
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