)Barry Stewart wrote:
Can't help you precisely... but if you're using a non-Olympus flash, you're likely shooting manual anyway.
Using a radio slave trigger would keep the flash away from the camera — and give you nicer off-camera effects anyway. You'll have to manually adjust the flash (and it's best to use the camera in Manual exposure as well.) Once you run a few test shots and make adjustments, you'll be in the zone.
You could start with a low-end eBay trigger. I like the $100+ FlashWave III myself.
Though if you are using radio slaves, be sure to read the fine print on capabilities. Some radio slaves will burn out if you attach a high voltage flash. There was at least one radio slave that had problems with some flashes (FL-36) because evidently their voltage was too low.
I have two 5060s around the house still, so if you have any questions about my settings, just ask.
Back in the era of the C-5060, Olympus did not publish the safe voltage level of anything except their pro-level cameras (E-1, perhaps E-10/E-20 before that). And I recall, sometimes people would get conflicting answers whenever they asked Olympus what the real value was.
At the same time, there was a popular page that recorded the flash voltage level of various historical flashes (
http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html). The creator of that page shot with Canon gear, and the Canon gear at the time he collected the data could only support 6v (Nikons at the time tended to support 12v).
The ISO standard for flashes, actually mandates 24 volts, but it wasn't until the E-PL2 that Olympus documented 24V was safe. Note, the E-PL1 manual says 5V, instead of the 6V that I had been told by an Olympus Tech Rep during the E-620 era (the rep did his best to ask Japan what the actual value was). So, if you want to be ultra safe, make sure your flash is no more than 5V.
