My E-M5 has to go, which alternatives?

Well, judging by your list of what doesn't work for you, I do not see a single camera as a solution. Multiple cameras may just be in your future!

Have you considered a Sony RX1 at all? I had a chance to shoot with one for a day and must say that I was VERY impressed with the quality of the files. Of course the focus isn't the greatest and you need an external EVF but the files have a lot of detail for cropping. It is quite small but it's also quite pricey.
 
"It does not achieve what I need and it does not help me (enough) to overcome shortcomings of my photographic skills."

Here we come to the last but most important part of why I may have to part with the E-M5, and maybe even M43. Everything else was just "if I don't walk around with it regularly then I don't make full use of the M43 advantages while having to live with its disadvantages". But I am ultimately not able to achieve the results that I need. Much of this is down to lack of photographic skills and takes time to learn, but there are technological hurdles presented by the E-M5 which I am not longer willing to workaround. The E-M5 is a fantastic camera, with very good sensor and performance and lots of helpful options. But most of my problems have to do with contrast-detection auto-focus and the need for fast apertures with indoor shooting (home).

Why do I need fast apertures? We have bad lighting in most of our rooms, so for any picture where I cannot or want not use flash - or want enough ambient light - I need a fast lens. Why do I need a fast lens for that? I am takings photographs of kids, they don't sit still. And when they do sit still it only happens until they notice me pointing a camera at them. So I need fast shutter times to stop down movement. And since at one point I reach the limit of ISO where images get too noisy/smeared up the way to stop down action in bad light is to use faster lenses.

I am no s*cker for shallow depth of field and mostly enjoy well composed pictures with good DOF more than shallow ones. Thing is: we have a colorful and rather messy home, especially in those rooms where my kids are mostly hanging around. So shallow depth of field combined with a focal length that magnifies the background into obscurity is a way of working around our home's shortcoming. Feel free to offer us a bigger home or clean up the mess the kids leave behind at every waking minute, but shallow depth of field in combination with meeting other people's expectations of what makes a pleasing portrait seems to be the more manageable option.

So we have kids crawling and running close to the ground in bad light with shallow depth of field. Any professional photographer would struggle with these circumstances, so what do I expect?! I expect, or rather hope for, better means to focus on small spots/eyes, better means to focus on moving targets and higher reliability of the already present methods offered by the camera.

To begin with, I expected Olympus to copy & paste their firmware code from the E-P5 that would allow to regularly use the smallest (x14) focus point on the E-M5 without having to use the Magnify button. Often this smallest AF frame is essential to focusing on eyes, hopefully even the iris and not just the eyebrows above. It may just be a single button press, but there are some unpleasant consequences. Magnify view shows less information, there are no levels, no histogram and no blinkies. And it also turns off whenever you start playback, go to the menu, want to change flash or drive settings. The latter of which now always needs several button clicks and thus makes operation awkward (notice how often I use this word here?). It would have been so easy for Olympus to implement this little already half-present function into its flagship camera - and get rid of the already *acknowledged* bugs along the way - that it became clear that they hold it back for the pure reason of saving money and making people buy the next model even for such minor improvements.

Then there is the main issue we currently face with all M43 cameras until the E-M1 hopefully resolves it with hybrid PD AF focus points. Continuous AF (AF-C) is on the border of useless for any close targets (shallower DOF). Its inner workings are so that it signals "in focus" and allows to expose while it's still hunting back and forth in such a big range that you need luck to get the correct focal plane. After focus confirmation (beep and green dot) it takes up a whooping 3 seconds until the hunting stops, but only if you manage to keep any motion out of the focus frame (including camera shake). Yesterday I tested a NEX-6 in AF-C and it was worlds better. I could focus in between my close hand and the far away background quickly and without any noticeable back and forth hunting. Bravo! This only was a short test, so I don't know how the NEX' AF-C works in practice, but the thing is that the E-M5's rather unsubtle hunting is always present and spoils shots.

The possible workaround are to always use burst mode or hammer on the shutter button hoping to get a good shot. I wasn't very successful with either of these and frankly don't want to sort through dozens of images every time I take casual shots of my kids, just to find the one that is in focus. So either M43 needs better means to track nearby moving targets or I need a camera with hopefully better working PD AF. Keep in mind that this is my very special usage case that is somewhat demanding for any camera and photographer. By the way, the manual warns that focusing may fail if there are no vertical lines on your subject. So there is no such thing as "cross-type" AF on the E-M5 it seems, which may or may not be a problem with certain targets or portrait/landscape orientations.

Last but not least there are the reliability issues of the helpful features already offered by the E-M5. Theoretically AF-S should be fast enough to get it right in many cases. Unfortunately focusing on the E-M5 considerably slows down in sometimes even light shadows due to the way it slows down to 30 fps in order to maintain EC preview in Live View and a brighter image in dark shadows. Unfortunately indoors it doesn't take much to make Live View and thus focusing slow down to 30 fps, and if you are using a shallow DOF combined with a small AF frame on top of that it can all be too slow to work in practice. One possible workaround is to use "Fast" frame-rates for Live View. This will keep the camera from slowing down and often makes it focus faster in even in shadow areas that "Normal" is able to capture brighter. Drawbacks of this are a far less pleasant Live View due to downsizing filters (likely bilinear) being turned off and a rather dark screen/EVF image with only limited preview capabilities in darker environments.

Don't even think about suggesting Face Detection. It's a nice feature, but lacking serious power and reliability to make regular use of it. FD on the Fujifilm X10 was more reliable than on the E-M5, giving *far* less false detections of things that don't even closely resemble faces and even being able to detect faces from the side. The E-M5 struggles a lot on detecting faces when eyebrows are hidden, part of the mouth is blocked or the subject is seen too much from the side. Eye detection more often than not focuses on the protruding eyebrows and even far worse, when no eyes are detected the E-M5 had a high tendency to focus on the protruding tip of the nose (center of face box I guess). And once you pair this all with fast lenses (shallow DOF) you absolutely have to prefocus to get a useful result out of this combination. Of course the kids already came half a meter closer in all that time it took to get the shot.

The last sentence brings me back to what I wrote before: "When they do sit still it only happens until they notice me pointing a camera at them". Turns out that the relatively silent shutter on the E-M5 is still too loud to not make everyone in the room turn their heads towards me (including my wife). Seems like I either need some electronic shutter or silent shutter mode or need to use smaller sensor cameras with much more silent shutters more often. And when M43 is still too loud to make everyone notice that they are being photographed then another advantage of the system goes down the drain. Albeit I have to admit that the very loud clicking front wheel of Canon DSLRs really spoils it a lot earlier before you even hit the shutter. ;)
 
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Make a list of camera's that interest you and start renting them. When you find one which is a closer match to your goals, transfer over.

Your later posts lean towards two systems. If that's the case I'd consider a pen for the "it's too big problem" and a DSLR for the "its too small problem". That could also fix your AF concerns with a PDAF option.

But that's just me since I have a PEN and a DSLR. They are not replacements for one another.
 
I will agree with others that the issue of simultaneously too big and too small means you need 2 cameras. The really pocketable m43 cameras are/can be fiddly to use. I've not been able to handle a GX7 yet, so I don't know how its weight causes a level on your right hand. Regarding the 2 camera solution, I'd say get something in the LX7/XZ2 market, AND and an ILC with a bigger grip. Since you have some m43 lenses already, do check out the G6, for me, it's the nicest m43 camera to hold, ever.

The issue with the camera swinging forward on its strap when you bend down can be solved with a different strap, across the body ones leave the camera at your side when not in use, much better.
 
There's a lot of exciting new products. Panasonic has the GX7 and the G6. Both seem to be worth checking out. The G6 seems to have done a lot right. I'm a Oly fanboy, but will not hesitate to jump to Lumix if the stars are aligned.

Wait to try the EM 1.

Whenever I start getting, the "this camera sucks" thoughts, I buy a lens. That diverts my attention from my lust for a new camera..
 
Hi

I went to a store here in Hong Kong this evening and tried the Panasonic LF1 after someone suggested it earlier in this thread. I did not even know it existed. What a great little camera if you must have a VF which I do. Also it has wifi and can be controlled from my smartphone, which would be very useful indeed. I was very tempted to buy one. I need to look up the full specs and download the test shots I took.
 
Timur- Your posts are too long for my attention-deficit to stay locked onto, LOL, but having skimmed through most of this thread, I feel your pain. I was a happy OM-D user, but with a lot of the same issues. Here's where I ended up:

1. Bought a Fuji X100 on a whim last December. Took the X100 and OM-D plus a few primes on my annual family ski trip last year. In 7 days I took over 1,000 shots (mostly "keepers") with the X100, and about 20 with the OM-D. The X100 changed my photographic life. It is the "desert island" camera.

2. Still wanting a "system", I sold off the OM-D kit and traded up to a Fuji X-E1 and similar array of prime lenses for pretty much even money during the June Fuji rebates. (Which are back on right now - you can essentially buy 3 lenses and get an X-E1 body for free!) I am a very experienced photographer who has shot with everything from a Pentax Spotmatic film camera, to a Leica M6, to a Canon 5DII, I have to say the X-E1 is the best system I have ever owned. Similar size and weight to the OM-D, but better ergonomics and better IQ. No regrets.

At this point, I still have the X100, but the X-E1 is what goes with me 99% of the time. With the 35mm f/1.4, it still fits into a (big) pocket, and the images are just delicious.

Good luck! The journey is often the most fun part!
 
Timur Born wrote:

Hello everyone! I am running into too many subjective limits with the E-M5 and will likely exchange it for something else and maybe even have to leave behind M43. This thread is about collecting advice and opinions about my options. I will put this in several posts, so for anyone feeling TLDR, just ignore this thread. ;)

So what is subjectively (!) wrong with the E-M5? In one long sentence: It's too big, it's too small, it's unergonomic, I don't like its viewfinder, it does not achieve what I need and it does not help me (enough) to overcome shortcomings of my photographic skills.

When I originally bought the Fujifilm X10 I wanted good enough image quality and control over the image in a package that I would not regularly leave at home due to size and weight. I quickly noticed that I would need bounce flash indoors and that the lack of any tilt/swivel screen was limiting me in shooting my kids from awkward angles. I also felt that I would need a bigger sensor and possibly faster lenses for stopping down my kids' actions at higher ISO and blurring out more of the very busy backgrounds indoors. Furthermore I could use a wider selection of focal lengths to either being able to zoom in closer (without cropping from an already smallish sensor) or to zoom out without running into furniture and walls.

So I went from X10 to E-M5 to get all these things and on top of that get 100% EVF with live preview, a better selection of flashes and hopefully even a better product support than what Fujifilm insulted me with. Back then I wrote a quite detailed thread about my experience, where I tried to fairly compare the two systems and even found quite a number of drawbacks on the E-M5 compared to the "lesser" X10. Because I knew that investing in a complete system would mean to shell out quite a bit of money I did not invest too much too fast. The result is that I only own the E-M5 + 12-50 kit, a spare 3rd party battery, a 45/1.8 + step up lens hood, a couple of 52 mm filters and a FL-600R flash.

In the next posts I one by one go through my above list of subjective E-M5 shortcomings.
Sorry to hear you are thinking of leaving MFT Timur. I'll miss your valuable contributions to the forum if you do it (as I still hope you won't).

If I know you right, you have already thought through many of the pros and cons very well already. But there's nevertheless one general question I'd like to raise. Have you considered the cost (in terms of time) involved in switching from not only from one body to another but from one system to another?

I like to know my body and lenses very well so that I know exactly what to expect from them and exactly how to handle them without even thinking about it. When shooting, I want to concentrate solely on what I'd like to accomplish, not waste time and effort on thinking about how to accomplish it with my specific gear.

When I switched from one SLR body to another back in the 1970s, it only took me minutes to become thoroughly familiar with any new features (there weren't many and they weren't very complicated). When I switched to the E-M5, the same process took me months and I am pretty sure there are still a few things about the camera worth knowing that I have yet to learn. In the digital age, this is something I seriously consider when thinking about upgrading the body. While playing with something new can certainly be fun at times, a considerable part of it is just boring and time-consuming, such as learning anew what things are called and where in the menu system to find them.

Now I know that you know more about how the E-M5 works than just about everyone else here and I guess you must have spent some time in order to reach that stage (in spite of your impressive observational skills). If I know you right, you would want to reach the same depth of knowledge with your next camera. If you think getting there is just fun, you should of course go right ahead. But if not, I think you risk wasting a bit of your precious human capital. ;-)
 
Well, sorta, maybe...

Check out sugru.com

Not the most gracious solution and some might even think it would destroy the fine lines of the E-M5 but functionally, you could use it to ease the sharp edges that bothers your left palm/hand. Course, if you do care about the look of the camera, you can also get a leather half case that should round out the edges (though costs more than the sugru solution).

As for the ergonomically unsound grip, well, you can get the optional grip which should help (you can also create one with the sugru ;)).

There is also the E-M1 with a much better grip which may solve that problem.

On the other hand, there is the ergonomically sound GH3 and GX7. From what I hear, the grip on the GX7 is very good and maybe good enough for your case.

GX7 also has the top-left corner EVF which tilts which should solve some of your other problems though until you feel it in your hands there is no real way you can tell if the buttons are too small or the thumb rest is unsuited for your hands etc. etc.

So baring E-M5 with better grip, GH3, E-M1 or the GX7, well, you are looking at DSLR's (assuming you have already decided against the NEX line). And as stated, DSLR's are rather big. Take a look at the Pentax lines. In general, I find them smaller more compact (without compromises) than other DSLR's. And they have some beautiful small primes such as their 70mm 2.4 or their ridiculously small pancake 40mm.

On the more pocketable cameras, if you don't mind having a fixed prime lens, there is the very pocketable Ricoh GR or it's rival the Nikon Coolpix A. Both competent APS-C sensored compacts.

If you must have a more versatile zoom, well, I think you know all the general suspects...LX7, LF1, S120, Oly XZ-10, XZ-1, etc.

On the other hand, there is also the idea of ditching the compact p&s altogether and get something like any of the Nokia pureview smartphones such as the new Lumia 1020. Perhaps worse than the large sensor'ed compacts but should stand pretty well with any other compact p&s

Lots of choices and compromises. I wish you good luck because I know I haven't found my perfect mix yet. Though if I had the $$$ (which I don't), it'll be a GX7, Ricoh GR, LF1 plus whatever is the best smartphone available when I'm done with my contract.
 
I can't read the full thread but I glanced over several posts of yours. If I got it right, your main problems show up when you shoot your children (focus/top-heavy flash/ergonomics/etc). I think it's quite similar to the use cases of this photographer (Marla2008 on dpreview forums). She used to shoot with a GX-1 with native lenses (e.g. 25/1.4, 45/1.8) and a bounced Nikon flash on manual mode to avoid blinking, but now she shoots with NEX6/7, a small bounced flash, and manual lenses, e.g. the PEN F 38/1.8 (with the good NEX focus peaking). I think she is quite happy with this configuration, and her results are nothing but superb. She stopped posting here a while ago but I still remember her as a master in photographing children. So maybe you can read her observations on the NEX and consider whether switching to MF with peaking can work for you. But you'll need a native lens if you want to take advantage of AF-C. I guess you can get the NEX6 + one fast manual lens for the price of the EM-5. And you can keep the rest of your m4/3 lenses for a body that will suit you better in the future.

One comment about the ergonomics with the flash - I think that every flash bigger than the Metz 24 AF-1 is top heavy on a camera at the size of the EM-5 (and with a grip like it has). I tried some and didn't like neither on my E-PL2 because of ergonomics (although the grip on the E-PL2 is really fine). So if you use the 600r, use it off-camera. I have the Metz 20 C-2 (similar size to the 24) and I'm happy with its size and performance. It's universal, cheap and also bounces.
 
Looks much like silicone in a tube, but divided up into smaller packages and bright colors. If you can get by w black or white, just buy a tube at any hardware or box store... Maybe it's a little tougher than regular silicone though?
 
Staying with m4/3 (and small lenses are a good reason to consider that option!) the GH3 should deal with your "too small" comments. The EM5 was always too small for me, with a poor grip for some lenses and cramped buttons. The GH3 overcomes that, with a somewhat larger body.

NEX has some advantages, but all result in a relatively small body attached, in come cases, to pretty large lenses.
 
Kwick1 wrote:

So, you want a camera that easily fits on your pocket (so you don't hit your son in the head), has full frame image quality, a large viewfinder, interchangeable lenses (and uses the same ones you have already), fits your large hands, and fixes your lack of photographic skills, guaranteeing a great shot every time.
Actually, that's exactly what I'm looking for. I've been wanting that camera for years, now! Could you please post a link?
 
Art_P wrote:

Looks much like silicone in a tube, but divided up into smaller packages and bright colors. If you can get by w black or white, just buy a tube at any hardware or box store... Maybe it's a little tougher than regular silicone though?
It is a silicone based technology but much more useful than your typical silicone in a tube.

 
Just a note that this message which, as you say, is your most important point, gets totally lost in this thread when viewing in threaded mode. So much so that I didn't even see it till now.

I can't say much about the AF behavior as

a) I don't have an Oly to compare with

b) I don't have a current Panny to compare with

c) I don't have a current DSLR from the big three

and d) I'm probably a lot less fussy about focus. I.e. I don't mind on the most part if the main subject isn't in razor sharp focus as I don't pixel peep much.

But from what I gather (and please correct me if I'm wrong), I do seem to notice quite a number of people complain about focus points or rather the want for smaller focus points with Oly cameras while they point to Panny as the 'better' way. Though that tells us nothing about how good/bad the Panny way is in reality.

The new GX7 is, on paper, able to focus much better in low light than other m43 (or at least Oly). Something about down to EV 0 for Oly (or is that all prior m43?) and EV -4 for Panny.

Now how all this plays out in reality I can't say, specially when compared to other brands and platforms.

Also, the G6, GX7, E-P5 and presumably E-M1 (does GH3?) all have focus peaking if you want to pin point your focus. Course this won't help at all with kids running around.

As for needing quiet shooting, G6, GH3 and GX7 (did I miss any others?) all have silent electronic shutters (with it's own caveats). I do know with the GX7 it's totally silent.

Otherwise, sorry, I don't have much experience with other brands except Pentax, which my wife uses.
Timur Born wrote:

"It does not achieve what I need and it does not help me (enough) to overcome shortcomings of my photographic skills."

Here we come to the last but most important part of why I may have to part with the E-M5, and maybe even M43. Everything else was just "if I don't walk around with it regularly then I don't make full use of the M43 advantages while having to live with its disadvantages". But I am ultimately not able to achieve the results that I need. Much of this is down to lack of photographic skills and takes time to learn, but there are technological hurdles presented by the E-M5 which I am not longer willing to workaround. The E-M5 is a fantastic camera, with very good sensor and performance and lots of helpful options. But most of my problems have to do with contrast-detection auto-focus and the need for fast apertures with indoor shooting (home).

Why do I need fast apertures? We have bad lighting in most of our rooms, so for any picture where I cannot or want not use flash - or want enough ambient light - I need a fast lens. Why do I need a fast lens for that? I am takings photographs of kids, they don't sit still. And when they do sit still it only happens until they notice me pointing a camera at them. So I need fast shutter times to stop down movement. And since at one point I reach the limit of ISO where images get too noisy/smeared up the way to stop down action in bad light is to use faster lenses.

I am no s*cker for shallow depth of field and mostly enjoy well composed pictures with good DOF more than shallow ones. Thing is: we have a colorful and rather messy home, especially in those rooms where my kids are mostly hanging around. So shallow depth of field combined with a focal length that magnifies the background into obscurity is a way of working around our home's shortcoming. Feel free to offer us a bigger home or clean up the mess the kids leave behind at every waking minute, but shallow depth of field in combination with meeting other people's expectations of what makes a pleasing portrait seems to be the more manageable option.

So we have kids crawling and running close to the ground in bad light with shallow depth of field. Any professional photographer would struggle with these circumstances, so what do I expect?! I expect, or rather hope for, better means to focus on small spots/eyes, better means to focus on moving targets and higher reliability of the already present methods offered by the camera.

To begin with, I expected Olympus to copy & paste their firmware code from the E-P5 that would allow to regularly use the smallest (x14) focus point on the E-M5 without having to use the Magnify button. Often this smallest AF frame is essential to focusing on eyes, hopefully even the iris and not just the eyebrows above. It may just be a single button press, but there are some unpleasant consequences. Magnify view shows less information, there are no levels, no histogram and no blinkies. And it also turns off whenever you start playback, go to the menu, want to change flash or drive settings. The latter of which now always needs several button clicks and thus makes operation awkward (notice how often I use this word here?). It would have been so easy for Olympus to implement this little already half-present function into its flagship camera - and get rid of the already *acknowledged* bugs along the way - that it became clear that they hold it back for the pure reason of saving money and making people buy the next model even for such minor improvements.

Then there is the main issue we currently face with all M43 cameras until the E-M1 hopefully resolves it with hybrid PD AF focus points. Continuous AF (AF-C) is on the border of useless for any close targets (shallower DOF). Its inner workings are so that it signals "in focus" and allows to expose while it's still hunting back and forth in such a big range that you need luck to get the correct focal plane. After focus confirmation (beep and green dot) it takes up a whooping 3 seconds until the hunting stops, but only if you manage to keep any motion out of the focus frame (including camera shake). Yesterday I tested a NEX-6 in AF-C and it was worlds better. I could focus in between my close hand and the far away background quickly and without any noticeable back and forth hunting. Bravo! This only was a short test, so I don't know how the NEX' AF-C works in practice, but the thing is that the E-M5's rather unsubtle hunting is always present and spoils shots.

The possible workaround are to always use burst mode or hammer on the shutter button hoping to get a good shot. I wasn't very successful with either of these and frankly don't want to sort through dozens of images every time I take casual shots of my kids, just to find the one that is in focus. So either M43 needs better means to track nearby moving targets or I need a camera with hopefully better working PD AF. Keep in mind that this is my very special usage case that is somewhat demanding for any camera and photographer. By the way, the manual warns that focusing may fail if there are no vertical lines on your subject. So there is no such thing as "cross-type" AF on the E-M5 it seems, which may or may not be a problem with certain targets or portrait/landscape orientations.

Last but not least there are the reliability issues of the helpful features already offered by the E-M5. Theoretically AF-S should be fast enough to get it right in many cases. Unfortunately focusing on the E-M5 considerably slows down in sometimes even light shadows due to the way it slows down to 30 fps in order to maintain EC preview in Live View and a brighter image in dark shadows. Unfortunately indoors it doesn't take much to make Live View and thus focusing slow down to 30 fps, and if you are using a shallow DOF combined with a small AF frame on top of that it can all be too slow to work in practice. One possible workaround is to use "Fast" frame-rates for Live View. This will keep the camera from slowing down and often makes it focus faster in even in shadow areas that "Normal" is able to capture brighter. Drawbacks of this are a far less pleasant Live View due to downsizing filters (likely bilinear) being turned off and a rather dark screen/EVF image with only limited preview capabilities in darker environments.

Don't even think about suggesting Face Detection. It's a nice feature, but lacking serious power and reliability to make regular use of it. FD on the Fujifilm X10 was more reliable than on the E-M5, giving *far* less false detections of things that don't even closely resemble faces and even being able to detect faces from the side. The E-M5 struggles a lot on detecting faces when eyebrows are hidden, part of the mouth is blocked or the subject is seen too much from the side. Eye detection more often than not focuses on the protruding eyebrows and even far worse, when no eyes are detected the E-M5 had a high tendency to focus on the protruding tip of the nose (center of face box I guess). And once you pair this all with fast lenses (shallow DOF) you absolutely have to prefocus to get a useful result out of this combination. Of course the kids already came half a meter closer in all that time it took to get the shot.

The last sentence brings me back to what I wrote before: "When they do sit still it only happens until they notice me pointing a camera at them". Turns out that the relatively silent shutter on the E-M5 is still too loud to not make everyone in the room turn their heads towards me (including my wife). Seems like I either need some electronic shutter or silent shutter mode or need to use smaller sensor cameras with much more silent shutters more often. And when M43 is still too loud to make everyone notice that they are being photographed then another advantage of the system goes down the drain. Albeit I have to admit that the very loud clicking front wheel of Canon DSLRs really spoils it a lot earlier before you even hit the shutter. ;)
 
Timur Born wrote:

Hello everyone! I am running into too many subjective limits with the E-M5 and will likely exchange it for something else and maybe even have to leave behind M43. This thread is about collecting advice and opinions about my options. I will put this in several posts, so for anyone feeling TLDR, just ignore this thread. ;)

So what is subjectively (!) wrong with the E-M5? In one long sentence: It's too big, it's too small, it's unergonomic, I don't like its viewfinder, it does not achieve what I need and it does not help me (enough) to overcome shortcomings of my photographic skills.

When I originally bought the Fujifilm X10 I wanted good enough image quality and control over the image in a package that I would not regularly leave at home due to size and weight. I quickly noticed that I would need bounce flash indoors and that the lack of any tilt/swivel screen was limiting me in shooting my kids from awkward angles. I also felt that I would need a bigger sensor and possibly faster lenses for stopping down my kids' actions at higher ISO and blurring out more of the very busy backgrounds indoors. Furthermore I could use a wider selection of focal lengths to either being able to zoom in closer (without cropping from an already smallish sensor) or to zoom out without running into furniture and walls.

So I went from X10 to E-M5 to get all these things and on top of that get 100% EVF with live preview, a better selection of flashes and hopefully even a better product support than what Fujifilm insulted me with. Back then I wrote a quite detailed thread about my experience, where I tried to fairly compare the two systems and even found quite a number of drawbacks on the E-M5 compared to the "lesser" X10. Because I knew that investing in a complete system would mean to shell out quite a bit of money I did not invest too much too fast. The result is that I only own the E-M5 + 12-50 kit, a spare 3rd party battery, a 45/1.8 + step up lens hood, a couple of 52 mm filters and a FL-600R flash.

In the next posts I one by one go through my above list of subjective E-M5 shortcomings.
Lazy man I'm to run through all advices.

Timur, you want too much from a single camera/system. You want smaller camera, faster camera, and everything else.

I think the best for you will be GX7 that is smaller, faster, has tilt LCD and EVF that is going to be beautiful.

If you want bigger sensor, in smaller body, you need NEX that is no longer smaller after getting EVF.

If you need action camera, you can use video mode and pick up a shot from video.

And after all you can use camera selector from DPR and filter out camera that best for you.

Also I'd recommend cooling period before investing money.

Sincerely

S.
 
So I went from X10 to E-M5 to get all these things and on top of that get 100% EVF with live preview, a better selection of flashes and hopefully even a better product support than what Fujifilm insulted me with.

I love my Fuji x10, especially for flash, it does things that no M4/3 body or DSLR can compete with, I just don`t get what your saying.
 
Timur Born wrote:
...Hm, I find it just the right timing to think about the available and very soon coming alternatives that we already know lots of infos about. Especially in the light of likely having to sell the E-M5 for a price that doesn't leave me weeping for all the money lost. ;) ...
OK, selling an EM5 now could fetch a higher price than in 6 months. I meant mFT lenses, etc. could be even better with the new camera--a reason to stay with mFT since it's capabilities are increasing rapidly.
... This is not about perfection, but about finding the right compromises. I did own exactly two cameras in my life, so my experience with what suits my personal (and likely changing) needs best is somewhat limited. ....
I'd agree the basic problem is having a clear sense of what we want or need. What kinds of image do you feel a strong desire to create? A camera is only good for taking pictures. It's the something in "taking pictures of something" that defines what camera is "best", the camera does not determine the meaning of images we make.

An option is to hang on to the EM5 for now. Used cameras are abundant, and relatively cheap. One at a time you can try out some different types with little financial drain. In the end, what is the "best system" rests on these factors:
  • system convenience (e.g., size, weight)
  • system technical properties (availability of "must have" lenses, high ISO, remote operability, etc.)
  • individual's attributes (e.g., physical handicaps, eyesight problems, etc.).
With any system we'll always have limits, and we're always going to have to find ways to get around them. Humans are very adaptable creatures, we can solve problems, and isn't that the essence of success?
...The bulk of our family pics is done with phones, has always been and likely will always be...
True, phones are getting to be better cameras, and the technologies are beginning to merge. Even the EM1 has WiFi--we see where that's heading. Still, there are distinct purposes so there will be some "devices" better suited to specific tasks than others.
...The other situation where any small camera falls short is bad indoor lighting combined with moving subjects. You need good ISO + aperture performance and/or good (bounce) flash to make these more than just OK looking snapshots. It's mostly enough for our personal memory, but once in a while you want a truly gorgeous looking picture of the most important people in your life. Especially when they grow out of their current clothes more quickly than you can plead them to sit still. ;) ...
Conflicting goals are the root of indecision. Sure I want a small camera I take everywhere, but damn it, I want great IQ when I get a really good shot. Same for dim light, moving targets, and so on. Bottom line, all things to all men does not exist.

Personally, I prefer getting less than perfect IQ, rather than no image at all. Half way is as good as it gets. I'm willing to haul around a beast the size of the EM5 (big vs. a phone cam) in order to have a chance at passable IQ vs. garbage from a smaller imager. For me, it's worth the trouble in both directions. But I understand it surely is not everyone's choice.

Jules.
 

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