Nikon Capture NX2 + D800 - help!!!

RichCutler

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I've just got Capture NX2 but the cropping tool is driving me nuts!

(1) Sometimes it crops accurately following the selected aspect ratio, other times it crops the width way too narrow - so the photo looks more 4 x 5 (width x height) than my selected 4 x 6. Things seem to go wrong after I use the Picture Control settings...

(2) Also, if I crop my photo then change something (like exposure), the crop disappears!

What's happening, and how do I make NX2 respect my crop aspect ratio!?

I doubt it makes any difference, but I use a Nikon D800E.

Help!!!!

--
-=Rich=-
www.richcutler.co.uk
 
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Solution
J
I don't have an answer to your first question, as I've never experienced the same problem when cropping (D2x, D300, D700 and D800 files). The crop tool just works perfectly all the time. Just make sure that you've selected Fixed Aspect Ratio.

Your second question is an easy one: just go to Preferences / General and tick the box under Edit List: Keep ALL Steps Active In Edit List (Requires Fast Processor).

--
Jur
RichCutler wrote:

Have discovered two things already though:
  1. Sharpening is on by default, and is crude and horribly aggressive - even level 1 creates halos! I'll do my sharpening in Photoshop as usual!
  2. Resampling is also on by default, so cropped images are resized to set dimensions. Again, no thanks!
Is there anything else I should generally select/deselect, or otherwise note?
With the D800 in Capture NX2 my standard sharpening routine is:

1. In the Picture Control section set Sharpening to 0 or 1.

2. After all other editing has been completed, apply Unsharp Mask in 2 stages:

3. First stage: Intensity 70, Radius 4, Threshold 0, Opacity Lighter 55%

4. Second stage: Intensity 70, Radius 4, Threshold 0, Opacity Darker 75%
 
... Another fun tip is to get Nik's Cool Efex Pro 3 that works as a plug in right inside of NX2. It becomes part of the Edit List. This is not to be necessarily used as gimmics, but as very useful tools..... and fun to boot. PM me if you want. And remember, when you begin doing selective editing with the brush or a CP, literally all of the edits available in the list plus the Nik plug in can be used this way. I almost always just leave the brush at full soft setting and vary the size with the { + } keys.
 
Ernie Misner wrote:
j_photo wrote:
Kaj E wrote:

All adjustments on RAW files are the bit depth of the file.

--
Kind regards
Kaj
http://www.pbase.com/kaj_e
WSSA member #13

It's about time we started to take photography seriously and treat it as a hobby.- Elliott Erwitt
Kaj: I don't claim to know. I've read elsewhere that the exposure compensation in quick fix is superior to adjustments made in later steps. But it's possible I remember incorrectly or the information was just wrong.
The only problem is I don't think there is a way to apply edits within the Quick Fix area selectively, only globally. So yeah, use them sparingly and wisely but globally.

--
Ernie Misner
http://www.flickr.com/photos/erniemisner/
I'm not talking about global vs local adjustments. The following is from a recent thread on the Flickr board that gets at what I'm talking about. As I said, I don't claim to know for sure. But I've seen this discussed before. Here is the link to the discussion: http://www.flickr.com/groups/capturenx/discuss/72157632570813600/
adjustrments made in the development module are not adjusting Pixels or Pixel Values.

those adjustments are altering the Development Process

they are changing how the Data in the RAW file is interpreted
before an Image containing pixels is actually rendered
the RAW data may contain up to 2 stops of Data beyond the limit of Blown Highlights that can be recovered with an adjustment to the Data Processing

IE there is more data there than you can squeeze into a TIFF
so you can reprocess it to use Data from different areas
in film work it would be the equivalent of using a different temperature
or a different developer or a different length of time to develop the same Exposed Negative

in the adjustment Module you are adjusting Pixel Values of an image already formed
akin to printing from a developed Negative you can only mess with what is already there you can't go back to square one and start again
 
Ernie Misner wrote:
j_photo wrote:
Ernie Misner wrote:
j_photo wrote:
Kaj E wrote:

All adjustments on RAW files are the bit depth of the file.

--
Kind regards
Kaj
http://www.pbase.com/kaj_e
WSSA member #13

It's about time we started to take photography seriously and treat it as a hobby.- Elliott Erwitt
Kaj: I don't claim to know. I've read elsewhere that the exposure compensation in quick fix is superior to adjustments made in later steps. But it's possible I remember incorrectly or the information was just wrong.
The only problem is I don't think there is a way to apply edits within the Quick Fix area selectively, only globally. So yeah, use them sparingly and wisely but globally.

--
Ernie Misner
http://www.flickr.com/photos/erniemisner/
I'm not talking about global vs local adjustments. The following is from a recent thread on the Flickr board that gets at what I'm talking about. As I said, I don't claim to know for sure. But I've seen this discussed before. Here is the link to the discussion: http://www.flickr.com/groups/capturenx/discuss/72157632570813600/
adjustrments made in the development module are not adjusting Pixels or Pixel Values.

those adjustments are altering the Development Process

they are changing how the Data in the RAW file is interpreted
before an Image containing pixels is actually rendered
the RAW data may contain up to 2 stops of Data beyond the limit of Blown Highlights that can be recovered with an adjustment to the Data Processing

IE there is more data there than you can squeeze into a TIFF
so you can reprocess it to use Data from different areas
in film work it would be the equivalent of using a different temperature
or a different developer or a different length of time to develop the same Exposed Negative

in the adjustment Module you are adjusting Pixel Values of an image already formed
akin to printing from a developed Negative you can only mess with what is already there you can't go back to square one and start again
Hey that's cool that fllickr has a NX2 User's Group. I like it. I think we actually agree. They are saying it's advantagous to do as much as you can in the Quick View (NX2) because of the higher bit depth or whatever. Yes, sounds to be true. What I added to that is it's unfortunate we can not "select" certain areas while still in Quick View. So after exiting Quick View we still often need to resort to selecting areas for edits and go to work on those areas only. And although the highlight recovery and shadow lift in Quick View should select just those areas, they don't do a good job of that.
Fortunately it is not true. Just check the histogram when editing and compare edits in quick fix to to edit list. No difference in gaps on radical adjustments (once you let the software take its time to display the true edit).

--
Kind regards
Kaj
http://www.pbase.com/kaj_e
WSSA member #13
It's about time we started to take photography seriously and treat it as a hobby.- Elliott Erwitt
 
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Nice collection thanks for posting.

Cheers.

AC//

Janoch wrote:
RichCutler wrote:

Anyone any tips for someone coming to Capture NX2 for the first time
Over time I've collected *all* articles a.o. NX2-related stuff from the web. As I often read them off-line, everything is saved in PDF format.

The collection can be downloaded here: http://www.mediafire.com/download/mtu2265nv0f689z/Capture_NX2.zip

Btw., for reading PDF, SumatraPDF is highly recommended! :-D
 
An example of when the edit steps produce better results than Quick fix. Try to recover highlights and shadows in a file severely under or overexposed:

1)With shadow/highlight protection in quick fix.

2) With Adjust > Light > D-lighting, better quality in edit.

You will notice that d-lighting is much less prone to haloing.

Use the right tools for the job. Quick fix is as the name implies a quick way of doing adjustments, but not always the best.

--
Kind regards
Kaj
http://www.pbase.com/kaj_e
WSSA member #13
It's about time we started to take photography seriously and treat it as a hobby.- Elliott Erwitt
 
Last edited:
Kaj E wrote:

An example of when the edit steps produce better results than Quick fix. Try to recover highlights and shadows in a file severely under or overexposed:

1)With shadow/highlight protection in quick fix.

2) With Adjust > Light > D-lighting, better quality in edit.

You will notice that d-lighting is much less prone to haloing.

Use the right tools for the job. Quick fix is as the name implies a quick way of doing adjustments, but not always the best.
 
All problems I faced with NX2 were laptop power and abilities related. Try a D700 or smaller file and I doubt if you'd see any issues.

Nathan
 
j_photo wrote:
Kaj E wrote:

An example of when the edit steps produce better results than Quick fix. Try to recover highlights and shadows in a file severely under or overexposed:

1)With shadow/highlight protection in quick fix.

2) With Adjust > Light > D-lighting, better quality in edit.

You will notice that d-lighting is much less prone to haloing.

Use the right tools for the job. Quick fix is as the name implies a quick way of doing adjustments, but not always the best.
 
Kaj E wrote:
j_photo wrote:
Kaj E wrote:

An example of when the edit steps produce better results than Quick fix. Try to recover highlights and shadows in a file severely under or overexposed:

1)With shadow/highlight protection in quick fix.

2) With Adjust > Light > D-lighting, better quality in edit.

You will notice that d-lighting is much less prone to haloing.

Use the right tools for the job. Quick fix is as the name implies a quick way of doing adjustments, but not always the best.
 
j_photo wrote:
Kaj E wrote:
j_photo wrote:
Kaj E wrote:

An example of when the edit steps produce better results than Quick fix. Try to recover highlights and shadows in a file severely under or overexposed:

1)With shadow/highlight protection in quick fix.

2) With Adjust > Light > D-lighting, better quality in edit.

You will notice that d-lighting is much less prone to haloing.

Use the right tools for the job. Quick fix is as the name implies a quick way of doing adjustments, but not always the best.
 
Kaj, thanks for bringing us back to reality. Your PBase site is marvelous!
 
Kaj E wrote:
j_photo wrote:
Kaj E wrote:
j_photo wrote:
Kaj E wrote:

An example of when the edit steps produce better results than Quick fix. Try to recover highlights and shadows in a file severely under or overexposed:

1)With shadow/highlight protection in quick fix.

2) With Adjust > Light > D-lighting, better quality in edit.

You will notice that d-lighting is much less prone to haloing.

Use the right tools for the job. Quick fix is as the name implies a quick way of doing adjustments, but not always the best.
 

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