E-20 Pictures No punch

Here are a couple screencaps that show what Dave is talking about. These are from a tutorial I posted her last November. It's a great technique. Good idea, Dave.

Moving the white point:



and the black point:



-GageFX
Sravan,
Try this when adjusting your levels in PS.
Hold the alt key (for Windows or "option" Mac) while you adjust the
white point and black point of your image--it will show you at what
point the whites (or blacks) will blow out.
It does this by turning the screen black and when you reach the
point of blowout the blown pixels reveal themselves on screen! This
is a safe place to stop and will maximize your captured range for
print. I generally don't take the white point completely to the
hilt leaving room for maybe a little "S" curve to heighten the
contrast.
Hope this helps!
 
Dave

Thank you for this great tip!! In the two years I've studied and used Photoshop, including reading several books, I was not aware of or had seen that!
Great technique. Thanks again.
Sravan,
Try this when adjusting your levels in PS.
Hold the alt key (for Windows or "option" Mac) while you adjust the
white point and black point of your image--it will show you at what
point the whites (or blacks) will blow out.
It does this by turning the screen black and when you reach the
point of blowout the blown pixels reveal themselves on screen! This
is a safe place to stop and will maximize your captured range for
print. I generally don't take the white point completely to the
hilt leaving room for maybe a little "S" curve to heighten the
contrast.
Hope this helps!
 
Moving the white point:



and the black point:



-GageFX
Sravan,
Try this when adjusting your levels in PS.
Hold the alt key (for Windows or "option" Mac) while you adjust the
white point and black point of your image--it will show you at what
point the whites (or blacks) will blow out.
It does this by turning the screen black and when you reach the
point of blowout the blown pixels reveal themselves on screen! This
is a safe place to stop and will maximize your captured range for
print. I generally don't take the white point completely to the
hilt leaving room for maybe a little "S" curve to heighten the
contrast.
Hope this helps!
--
Oly E-20, Oly 4040Z, FL-40 pbase supporter
http://www.pbase.com/papa51
 
Thanks for posting this. I had no idea this feature was available. A great time saver.
Sravan,
Try this when adjusting your levels in PS.
Hold the alt key (for Windows or "option" Mac) while you adjust the
white point and black point of your image--it will show you at what
point the whites (or blacks) will blow out.
It does this by turning the screen black and when you reach the
point of blowout the blown pixels reveal themselves on screen! This
is a safe place to stop and will maximize your captured range for
print. I generally don't take the white point completely to the
hilt leaving room for maybe a little "S" curve to heighten the
contrast.
Hope this helps!
 
I'm sorry Doug, I disagree. You are applying your criteria.
No, I'm applying the industry's criteria. Any company looking to reach the pro market must produce a camera capable of fulfilling many professional needs. It must work equally well ringside at a fashion show as flying sideways in a Cessna with the door removed to do aerial shots (both of which I've done with my Canon A2's, neither of which I'd depend on an E-10 to shoot) That camera must be adaptable enough to address a broad range of uses and overcome many different situations.

Example: If you were doing Sports Illustrated's swimsuit issue on a beach in Brazil, and your shot was some thonged out babe walking along the waterline towards the camera, sandals in hand, would you; a) use an E-10, focus on a spot in front of the model, shot when model reaches that spot, repeat endlessly, or b) use a Canon 1D with awsome follow-focus and machine gun the scene at 8 frames a second wih every frame in perfect focus. If your livelihood depends on results there's no contest here. One camera adapts to the circumstances, the other hits it's limitations.

If you have to shoot a high key set-up on hot white in the studio, do you want to be using the 15 element zoom lens welded to the front of your camera, or have the ability to switch to a 5 element prime lens to reduce flare. If you have to shoot an annual report at medium format level quality, do you use the E-10 with it's file size and sensor size-induced noise issues, or the Canon 1DS. And on and on .... there are numerous everyday situations where the E-10 despite it's impressive abilities in it's comfort zone is completely out-matched. Calling something a pro camera isn't a marketing term exclusively, it's a set of criteria for that camera's performance. It must be able to track a moving object, have bullt-proof metering, high frame rate, build quality that will withstand everyday use, huge buffer, fast processing ... in other words it must have the ability to become part of the solution to a wide array of circumstances not part of the problem.
Give you a person example;

Last night I was doing coverage of the Distillery Jazz Festival. The Distillery area is an oasis of 18th century buildings surrounded by a modern city ( many scenes in the movie Chicago were filmed on this location) There's a compressed telephoto shot I'm trying to do of the setting sun lighting up a modern condo, all glittering new and sparkling glass, surrounded by the black silohetted Gothic architecture of the distillery neighbouhood against a deep twilight blue sky. I'm going to spot meter the condo to push the sky into a deeper blue and kill any detail in the gothic silohettes. Simple graphic composition. Do you think I could get the Olympus 15 element zoom lens to stop flaring? I tried every angle, nothing. If I was shooting film I have a 200mm L lens that would have done it with ease. Adaptability. When you're stuck with one lens you don't have much.

I was shooting a street performer up close at full wide, crowd in background. With a 1D, a couple short bursts and you're on your way, with the E-10, four shots and now you're in portrait studio mode, waiting, waiting, waiting for the buffer to clear... my life reduced to a Flash animated web page, I can almost see the status bar and the loading, loading in front of my eyes :) Adaptability. If you only do head shots for a living you control the pace in studio. If you do live coverage you're at the mercy of events and your camera had better be able to keep up.
If we go back to everyone's favorite argument that the person using
it defines the camera, then the camera is a professional tool for a
headshot photographer - he will never need anything but the
supplied lens. "Adaptability" is not an issue - you are attaching
the issue to his situation.
That's fine as long as he only does head shots. My point was that he's in this camera's comfort zone doing something like that. What if he gets his big break though. What if Sports Illustrated likes his head shots so much they give him the swimsuit issue? :) Zoinks! Now he has to learn how to use a 1D in 24 hrs.
I used the camera professionally for 1.5 years never using any
addon lenses. "Adaptability" was not an issue.
And now you use a 10D and by your own admission rarely pick up the E-10. You know why? Because you know that it's a more capable camera. You out-grew the E-10 and it's limitations, and the Olympus doesn't fit into where you want to be 3 years from now. The 10D has the capabilities to support your future endeavours, the E-10 was too restrictive.
Adaptability.

Best Regards,
Doug B
Torontowide.com
 
Ian, in this instance, using the technique they describe, they are referring to holding down the Alt key while clicking on the right side highlight slider at same time (or shadow slider, whatever the case may be). Setting white, black and gray points is done with the eyedrooper tools above the preview checkbox (this is basically for setting a manual white balance within the image using whatever you believe would most closely match those points in the image and clicking on it with whichever dropper selected that corresponds to that area). I believe that it was a slight mis-statement to call it the "white point" when referring to the sliders.
Where do you adjust the White point? Which adjustment is it?
--
Ian Yates
 
I think it's cxommon knowledge (or should be) that the Exx is a great studio camera, but for live action shots, candids, journalistic style shooting like you describe with the street performer, etc, it's not the tool to use. I don't remember Gage ever shooting street performers "machine gun" style, so that speed fire buffer and focus is'nt needed. Lighting is totally controlled in the studio as well as time to an extent, so flare is'nt an issue either.

I shoot alot of wildlife and scenics.....and the flare issue with the fixed lens definitely IS an issue for me at times. There are instances where the setting sun is at an angle I can't recompose out if I want to get the composition I'm after, and no matter WHAT I do, I can't get rid of the flares. The hood helps, and sometimes it actually contributes to it. But, these instances are rather rare to the overall, and when it happens I simply do my best to work around the limitation and try my best to emulate what all the great photographers always can and strive towards doing.....improvise, and make the situation and equipment work for you, not the other way around.

Journalistic style machine gun shooting? Is'nt my cup of tea, and I certainly don't make a living doing it (thank God). But if it was and I did, I'd definitely have a D1h or 1Ds in my hand. In the studio, the Exx performs flawlessly.

I'd also like to note that the Exx build quality is par-excellence. I have taken my E20 out in rain, extreme cold, dust, dirt, heat, wind, spray.....you name it, I've subjected it to it.....I'm in Alaska and shoot scenics, and the terrain/weather here makes your example of a flying plane with doors open seem like a picnic. The camera has never, ever let me down, no dust on sensor, no dust in VF, nothing. THAT, in my opinion, is one area the camera can't be beat in, excepting of course for the complete weatherproofing cams such as the 1D posess.
 
I think it's cxommon knowledge (or should be) that the Exx is a
great studio camera, but for live action shots, candids,
journalistic style shooting like you describe with the street
performer, etc, it's not the tool to use.
Ah, but it was superb for most of the evening. I did a flamenco guitarist who was miked, not plugged into pick-ups, from very close. The E-10 is such a wonderfully quiet camera. It didn't intrude at all. For 80 percent of the night it was an excellent tool to use. But I mentioned the other incidents in the context of the original discussion about pro attributes in cameras. Adaptability is important because there will always be that other twenty percent. The wider the capability of the camera, the better.
Journalistic style machine gun shooting? Is'nt my cup of tea, and
I certainly don't make a living doing it (thank God).
I'm not partial to it either. But I like it even less when my presence intrudes on the moment (this is NOT your typical photojournalist's attitude) That's what frustrated me about that circumstance, I had to hang around for the camera to finish before I could finish and get out of the way.

And anyway, why not machine gun something once in a while! Try it next time you're doing casual shots. Put it on burst mode and let it rip. (You do know we're not talking landscapes here :)

In the
studio, the Exx performs flawlessly.
It does if you remember to pace yourself. Unfortunately, sometimes your subject is not onboard with this concept and will give you the best look of the session on shot number 5 of your 4 shot buffer, leaving you stabbing at the shutter release in frustration.
I'd also like to note that the Exx build quality is par-excellence.
Absolutely. It's really well built. Makes all the other cameras in this class look like toys by comparison. Heck, it makes my A2's look like toys by comparison :)

And something I haven't seen anyone mention here, but I find the shutter release to be the smoothest I've ever used - better than my previous favourite, the Contax RTS 111. It isn't necessarily the quickest, but very smooth for those borderline shutter speeds.

Best Regards,

Doug B
Torontowide.com
 
Doug, I am terribly sorry, but I must admit that I have not read every word of this post, Davis's reply and then your response to that. I am short on time, but I did read almost all of this post. Again, I apologize, but I do feel I can give a decent rebuttal. (That remains to be seen of ANY of my rebuttals. :) )

You start by saying:
Any company looking to
reach the pro market must produce a camera capable of fulfilling
many professional needs. It must work equally well ringside at a
fashion show as flying sideways in a Cessna with the door removed
to do aerial shots.......
..... and so on...
This just isnt so. That's why Nikon made a D1X and a D1H - two different pro tools for two different jobs.

Also, a manual Hassy is a very professional camera. Right? NOw, how will that do at an NFL or NBA game? Not very well. That makes the camera no less professional, it just has it's place.

I hope this adaquitely spells out my argument. You know I wish I had time to pontificate.
......bunch of other stuff...
I dont use the E-10 anymore because I sold it because the 10D made it useless to me. HOWEVER, as far as the "adaptabliltiy" of the 10D is concerned, I would gladly have David M. weld the E-xx's lens on the front and I would be more than happy using that one lens forever. (assuming his weld holds.)
....machine gun shoots...
My last 5 shoots with the E-10 I was shooting 1000+ shots per shoot (about 4 hours). This was due to recent CF purchases.

My first two shoots with the 10D I was shooting 1300+ due to the ability to do so.

I was averaging about 200-300 good shots per shoot, and 150+ "keepers", which were then narrowed down to the best 20 and then at the most 5 shots from each shoot is used by anyone. Mind you, that 200 MORE THAN USABLE photos.

My last 4 shoots I have shot less than 500 frames each and have had more than 300+ good shots. I am growing and this makes me tremendously happy. My goal is to shoot 300 with 100 good, 50 keepers. You have no idea how much work 300+ good shots is. Ah... the day when I can just shoot those magic 5 shots and call it a day.

So, the moral is, to a better photographer, the E-10 and its buffer is fine. To the hack (and I'm admitting I was recenltly a hack - at least by the standards I just defined) who must "spray and pray", shooting a billion shots to get a kepper - the E-10 might not cut it. My suggestion? Slow down and take a GOOD or GREAT picture. It takes just as much effort as shooting a bad one.

-GageFX
 
I am a mac DESIGN guy. While I like the style, I would never own one of those heaps and would only use one when necessary.

(It's an XP skin. But a REAL mac guy would notice that right off.))

-GageFX
Moving the white point:



and the black point:



-GageFX
Sravan,
Try this when adjusting your levels in PS.
Hold the alt key (for Windows or "option" Mac) while you adjust the
white point and black point of your image--it will show you at what
point the whites (or blacks) will blow out.
It does this by turning the screen black and when you reach the
point of blowout the blown pixels reveal themselves on screen! This
is a safe place to stop and will maximize your captured range for
print. I generally don't take the white point completely to the
hilt leaving room for maybe a little "S" curve to heighten the
contrast.
Hope this helps!
--
Oly E-20, Oly 4040Z, FL-40 pbase supporter
http://www.pbase.com/papa51
 
This just isnt so. That's why Nikon made a D1X and a D1H - two
different pro tools for two different jobs.

Also, a manual Hassy is a very professional camera. Right? NOw, how
will that do at an NFL or NBA game? Not very well. That makes the
camera no less professional, it just has it's place.
I was referring to digital SLR's. For that matter a 4x5 camera would be even more useless :)

Now if you had a choice of owning an old 550CM or the new 645 auto focus model, which would you choose? The new model gives you more capability - heck you might even be inspired to take on that NBA game with one. Again Gage, you can't get around it. Flexibility, adaptablilty is always a desireable trait. Even if you only do the same thing every day in the studio, it's a good thing if you have the ability take on more.

I've owned a Hasselblad for twenty years and would describe it as an extremely limited camera that excels in the studio, but is a major pain in just about every other circumstance (and yes, I know wedding photog's have used them for years on location. Notice how many are bolting to DSLR's now the resolution is high enough) I can't imagine only owning a Hasselblad. But if you do nothing but studio work it would be fine.
My last 4 shoots I have shot less than 500 frames each and have had
more than 300+ good shots. I am growing and this makes me
tremendously happy. My goal is to shoot 300 with 100 good, 50
keepers. You have no idea how much work 300+ good shots is. Ah...
the day when I can just shoot those magic 5 shots and call it a day.
BTW: I'm new here. What kind of shooting do you do? What kind of work would you like to do down the road? Sounds like you do Glamour all day long. In another post you mentioned being a make-up artist.

who must "spray and pray",
shooting a billion shots to get a kepper - the E-10 might not cut
it. My suggestion? Slow down and take a GOOD or GREAT picture. It
takes just as much effort as shooting a bad one.
Bad suggestion in the sitution I described. There are circumstances where using burst mode is the best technique. Ask any photojournalist. It's not a matter of blindly shooting and praying. It's a matter of using the most effective technique to capture that moment. He's not standing there taking posing instructions, the musician was performing live in front of an audience. Like shooting someone talking. It takes a lot of dud exposures with uncomplimentary facial contortions to get one that works. If you've got the reflexes to catch that in one shot more power to you.

Best Regards,

Doug B
Torontowide.com
 
"Bad suggestion in the sitution I described. There are circumstances
where using burst mode is the best technique."> >
Both you Doug, and Gage, make very valid points and extremely good advice. I tend to agree more with Gage on the "work on taking a great shot instead of gunning 50" type of philosophy, but I can think of MANY instances where this just would not be expeditable.....such as a pro sports shooter, trying to capture the split second moment of a NBA star's magical jump, hanging in mid-air, the expression and sweat of his brow, his arm extended, veins protruding, ball gripped in hand, JUST hanging right there, frozen in time the millisecond before he slams it in the hoop. To capture such a moment perfectly, say, for a Sports Illustrated shot, one would need to start rapid firing the moment he gets even close TO the hoop, right before the jump, and keep firing away praying that the magical moment previously described will be captured within ONE of the images within the speed burst. I can't even imagine trying to capture such a moment shooting off a single frame, or even 3.

OK, I went overboard on that example, and I know you guys are sharp as hell and did'nt need to read that entire babble. Just wanted to say that I see Doug's point quite well.....and I see Gage's too, for different scenarios and needs.

I appreciate reading both of your comments in this thread, as a fantastic learning tool. You both are tremendous resources to this board and thanks to you both for sharing your insights.
This just isnt so. That's why Nikon made a D1X and a D1H - two
different pro tools for two different jobs.

Also, a manual Hassy is a very professional camera. Right? NOw, how
will that do at an NFL or NBA game? Not very well. That makes the
camera no less professional, it just has it's place.
I was referring to digital SLR's. For that matter a 4x5 camera
would be even more useless :)
Now if you had a choice of owning an old 550CM or the new 645 auto
focus model, which would you choose? The new model gives you more
capability - heck you might even be inspired to take on that NBA
game with one. Again Gage, you can't get around it. Flexibility,
adaptablilty is always a desireable trait. Even if you only do the
same thing every day in the studio, it's a good thing if you have
the ability take on more.
I've owned a Hasselblad for twenty years and would describe it as
an extremely limited camera that excels in the studio, but is a
major pain in just about every other circumstance (and yes, I know
wedding photog's have used them for years on location. Notice how
many are bolting to DSLR's now the resolution is high enough) I
can't imagine only owning a Hasselblad. But if you do nothing but
studio work it would be fine.
My last 4 shoots I have shot less than 500 frames each and have had
more than 300+ good shots. I am growing and this makes me
tremendously happy. My goal is to shoot 300 with 100 good, 50
keepers. You have no idea how much work 300+ good shots is. Ah...
the day when I can just shoot those magic 5 shots and call it a day.
BTW: I'm new here. What kind of shooting do you do? What kind of
work would you like to do down the road? Sounds like you do Glamour
all day long. In another post you mentioned being a make-up artist.

who must "spray and pray",
shooting a billion shots to get a kepper - the E-10 might not cut
it. My suggestion? Slow down and take a GOOD or GREAT picture. It
takes just as much effort as shooting a bad one.
Bad suggestion in the sitution I described. There are circumstances
where using burst mode is the best technique. Ask any
photojournalist. It's not a matter of blindly shooting and praying.
It's a matter of using the most effective technique to capture that
moment. He's not standing there taking posing instructions, the
musician was performing live in front of an audience. Like shooting
someone talking. It takes a lot of dud exposures with
uncomplimentary facial contortions to get one that works. If you've
got the reflexes to catch that in one shot more power to you.

Best Regards,

Doug B
Torontowide.com
 
First off, please stop using the word pro. It in no way applies to
photography. Photography is a trade not a profession. The use of
the word pro is only a marketing tool. I will grant that some makes
and models of cameras are more useful for people employed in making
images. However, judging a camera by what your favrite photographer
uses is to me like buying shoes because Jordan wears them. One buys
a camers because it will do for you what you need it to do. Not
that someone has given a mythical "pro" status to it. Another way
to look at it is which hammer should I buy the pro hammer or the
consumer hammer. If it knocks in the nail who cares?
By the way, I made my living in photography for many years. I used
what was available to me, both what was provided or what I could
afford. I never viewed any equipment I used as "pro" or not. I
learned and worked with whatever I had at hand or rented what was
needed.
This notion of pro is a myth

Best
John
Then WE should be called "Photosmiths."

def 3: One who makes or works at something specified. Often used in combination: a locksmith; a wordsmith.

--
Bill...

E-10, LiPo, WCON08B, FL-40, Canon off camera cord, Stroboframe, Lumiquest Promax Softbox, Wacom GraphireII...other stuff, too...
 
I believe that it was a slight mis-statement to call
it the "white point" when referring to the sliders.
Yes! Maybe not the best choice of words But--using this technique does reveal and make apparent the point in which a pixel has or doesn't have a given value by which to print (tells the printer to print ink). The point of "white" would describe the value of 255 ("0" being black). I used the word white point because I figured most readers from novice to seasoned expert would identify more easily across the board. When you use the eye dropper to select the white point or black point or for that matter neutral grey you are literally compressing the data! when exercising the method I described earlier (the Alt or Option) you are in affect compressing the data as well! Though there is a difference! One could say they do the same thing. Where we will see a real advantage is during the printing process whether it be ink jet or offset printing and then and only then is it really relevant (I shouldn't have said "only" :). You should limit your "points" based on the printer and the paper used considering it's characteristics such as "dot gain.

I have the Epson 2200 and I still find myself changing the settings that I thought were Ideal all the time--sometimes thats just the way it is! :)

Remember we've been talking about the input portion of the ever powerful "levels adjustment there is also the output section of this process--hear is were you really limit the point of white or black!
What do you think?
 
I was referring to digital SLR's.
I'm talking about ALL tools, not just digital SLRs, because it cant possibly only pertain to digital SLRs.

And for spray and pray, I wasnt referring to sprts or PJ, I should have made that clear. My apologies.

I'm shooting editorial fashion and glamour. The line gets so blurry at times. A solid ed. fash. shot is easy to spot, as is a solid glamour shot, but there is crossover and that's where I'm finding myself lately. I really want to seperate from "glamour" but that where some ed. ends up. Oh well. It's just a label. (Just like "pro tool" - it doesnt really matter.) I just happen to not like the label "glamour". Too much cheesy, nudie, soft core posing as "artistic nude" for my taste. I'd rather not be associated with that.
  • GageFX
This just isnt so. That's why Nikon made a D1X and a D1H - two
different pro tools for two different jobs.

Also, a manual Hassy is a very professional camera. Right? NOw, how
will that do at an NFL or NBA game? Not very well. That makes the
camera no less professional, it just has it's place.
I was referring to digital SLR's. For that matter a 4x5 camera
would be even more useless :)
Now if you had a choice of owning an old 550CM or the new 645 auto
focus model, which would you choose? The new model gives you more
capability - heck you might even be inspired to take on that NBA
game with one. Again Gage, you can't get around it. Flexibility,
adaptablilty is always a desireable trait. Even if you only do the
same thing every day in the studio, it's a good thing if you have
the ability take on more.
I've owned a Hasselblad for twenty years and would describe it as
an extremely limited camera that excels in the studio, but is a
major pain in just about every other circumstance (and yes, I know
wedding photog's have used them for years on location. Notice how
many are bolting to DSLR's now the resolution is high enough) I
can't imagine only owning a Hasselblad. But if you do nothing but
studio work it would be fine.
My last 4 shoots I have shot less than 500 frames each and have had
more than 300+ good shots. I am growing and this makes me
tremendously happy. My goal is to shoot 300 with 100 good, 50
keepers. You have no idea how much work 300+ good shots is. Ah...
the day when I can just shoot those magic 5 shots and call it a day.
BTW: I'm new here. What kind of shooting do you do? What kind of
work would you like to do down the road? Sounds like you do Glamour
all day long. In another post you mentioned being a make-up artist.

who must "spray and pray",
shooting a billion shots to get a kepper - the E-10 might not cut
it. My suggestion? Slow down and take a GOOD or GREAT picture. It
takes just as much effort as shooting a bad one.
Bad suggestion in the sitution I described. There are circumstances
where using burst mode is the best technique. Ask any
photojournalist. It's not a matter of blindly shooting and praying.
It's a matter of using the most effective technique to capture that
moment. He's not standing there taking posing instructions, the
musician was performing live in front of an audience. Like shooting
someone talking. It takes a lot of dud exposures with
uncomplimentary facial contortions to get one that works. If you've
got the reflexes to catch that in one shot more power to you.

Best Regards,

Doug B
Torontowide.com
 
I was referring to digital SLR's. For that matter a 4x5 camera
would be even more useless :)
Now if you had a choice of owning an old 550CM or the new 645 auto
focus model, which would you choose? The new model gives you more
capability - heck you might even be inspired to take on that NBA
game with one. Again Gage, you can't get around it. Flexibility,
adaptablilty is always a desireable trait. Even if you only do the
same thing every day in the studio, it's a good thing if you have
the ability take on more.
I don't think anyone was saying that adaptability and flexibility weren't desirable traits. I think everyone can agree on that.

But if I've followed the discussion correctly, the issue was whether the E-10 could be considered a professional camera.

It looks to me that with your above response you've conceded Gage's point that a Hasselblad is a professional tool even though it's not overly flexible and adaptable. If you accept that, then the fact that the E-10 isn't infinitely adaptable isn't sufficient to disqualify it from being "professional" either.
 
I'm shooting editorial fashion and glamour. The line gets so blurry
at times. A solid ed. fash. shot is easy to spot, as is a solid
glamour shot, but there is crossover and that's where I'm finding
myself lately. I really want to seperate from "glamour" but that
where some ed. ends up. Oh well. It's just a label. (Just like "pro
tool" - it doesnt really matter.) I just happen to not like the
label "glamour". Too much cheesy, nudie, soft core posing as
"artistic nude" for my taste. I'd rather not be associated with
that.
Interesting. Agree with you about the Glamour label.

In your previous post you mentioned a pretty heavy workload. I used to do production catalogue shooting that was a similiar kind of environment. I'd be shooting in one bay while the next shot was being set up in the one beside me. Spent the whole day hopping from one set to another.

You should make sure to disciplne yourself to take regular breaks. This kind of work is more stressful, and more taxing physically that it would appear. It's important to give yourself a break from it, even if only 5 minutes.

We did a shoot once that started at 9 in the morning and went past midnight under heavy deadline pressure. I got in my car to go home at the end of it and realised I was seeing double. Not way out of wack but enough to make me call a cab. Woke up the next day, nothing. But after half a day's shooting it was back. I had to stop doing that kind of work. I only do catalogues freelance now, not for big studios, where I can pace myself. If I go longer than a few hours without resting my eyes the double vision comes back.
Take care of yourself. That is a fairly intense shooting schedule you keep.

Best Regards,

Doug B
Torontowide.com
 

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