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New power system for SD9

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I still have a whole bunch of Li-Ion cells and ICs to handle them lying here. Only made a high power LED torch that will now have enough battery power for 1 year of constant usage (Li-Ions are such an overkill for that :).

Not to sure what I will do with the others since they are a bit to thick to fit inside the SD9 and I want to avoid to make the body even bigger as it is.

Maybe I will find a way to use them after thinking a while. Imho this would be the ultimate solution.
Joseph S. Wisniewski said:
keven Jam said:
Just a little change for my SD9 Power system,
you can diy yourself , no need CR 123 A Battery again
please comment
Click to expand...
I can't help thinking that there's got to be some good reason not
to do this. I just can't think of what it is.

Sigma and Fuji (with their S2) make some pretty heavy modifications
to the film cameras (Sigma SA-9 and Nikon N80) that they use. This
seems like such a trivial morification. Nikon and Canon managed to
do a pretty good job of it in their D100 and D60.

Sigma isn't stupid. They have to know how the whole "double
battery" thing affects people's perception of the camera. They've
seen Fuji get slammed by the press repeatedly over the last couple
of years for needing two batteries. Adding a single wire is such a
low cost way around this problem that there must be a catch.

Silly theories: the lithium battery runs the motors and solenoids
part of the camera, so the separate batteries allow Sigma to
isolate the sensitive digital electronics from back EMF from the
electromechanical components. Or the rechargable battery pack
couldn't deliver sufficient power to reliably operate both the
digital electronics and the electromechanical components
simultaneously, so they opted to leave in the small lithium, rather
than making the AA battery pack bigger.

--
Ciao!

Joe
Click to expand...
--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
 
Dominic Groß said:
I still have a whole bunch of Li-Ion cells and ICs to handle them
lying here. Only made a high power LED torch that will now have
enough battery power for 1 year of constant usage (Li-Ions are such
an overkill for that :).
Not to sure what I will do with the others since they are a bit to
thick to fit inside the SD9 and I want to avoid to make the body
even bigger as it is.
Click to expand...
Let me guess, they're 18mm in diameter, instead of 14mm like a standard AA, but AA length, 49 or 50mm.
Dominic Groß said:
Maybe I will find a way to use them after thinking a while. Imho
this would be the ultimate solution.
Click to expand...
Well, the SD-9 can run on 4 NiMH batteries, that's only 4.8V (I screwed up earlier) and it can also run on a pair of CR-V2 lithuim cells, which is 6.0V. So it's got to have some sort of internal voltage regulator. If that's a switching power supply, then you should be able to get away with 7.4V. (Note: I said "should" as in "this is conjecture, I take no responsibility for smoking cameras"). And, if it has a switching regulator, increasing the voltage will reduce the current draw in the digital section.

That means there's a whole bunch of ways to power the SD-9. The easy way (easy to find, easy to use) is to get a pair of 5/4 AA Li-Ion batteries. This gets you a 14mm diameter, 64mm long 1100mAH package (add two "dummy batteries, 35mm long) that should perform as well as 4 AA NiMH 1600mAH batteries, but weigh 63 grams less. Most Li-Ion battery manufacturers have a 5/4 AA in their lineup. They're easy to find.

More esoteric, some have an 8/4 AA, which gives you 2500mAH in a 14mm x 100mm package. That's the equivelant of 3850 mAH NiMH, or about twice the shooting time you're used to now on a charge, and you're still 25 grams lighter.

Easy to get, but difficult to use, four AA lithiums, 14mm x 50mm, 650mAH, two cells in series, with PTC (positive temp coefficient) resistors connecting the series batteries in parallel. Essentially, rechargable CR-V3 packs. That's only 1300mAH (2000mAH NiMH equivelant) so it really sin't worth the trouble compared to the 5/4 AA solution.

Now, if you had enough room for those little 18mm x 50mm 1400 mAH gems (I call them "fat AA" batteries) that Nikon and Canon use in the D100 and 10D, you'd be all set.

--
Ciao!

Joe
 
Hey Dominic THANK you for the pictures. Unfortunatetly I'm not that good with electronics but I thiink I understand what you did.

Can you just elaborate what the RED 1, 2, 3 stands for in the last picture?

IF i understand the process correctly

Make a battery sized cork device with a positive and negative end, to fit in the CR123 compartment.

Take a wire, run it between Each end of the dummy battery to the respected side of the 'battery compartment in the Sigma SD9

IE : Positive to Positive

Negative to Negative

And then you'll be able to use regular battery compartment to supply power to operate all camera functions?

Yes?
Dominic Groß said:
Joseph S. Wisniewski said:
keven Jam said:
Just a little change for my SD9 Power system,
you can diy yourself , no need CR 123 A Battery again
please comment
Click to expand...
I can't help thinking that there's got to be some good reason not
to do this. I just can't think of what it is.

Sigma and Fuji (with their S2) make some pretty heavy modifications
to the film cameras (Sigma SA-9 and Nikon N80) that they use. This
seems like such a trivial morification. Nikon and Canon managed to
do a pretty good job of it in their D100 and D60.

Sigma isn't stupid. They have to know how the whole "double
battery" thing affects people's perception of the camera. They've
seen Fuji get slammed by the press repeatedly over the last couple
of years for needing two batteries. Adding a single wire is such a
low cost way around this problem that there must be a catch.

Silly theories: the lithium battery runs the motors and solenoids
part of the camera, so the separate batteries allow Sigma to
isolate the sensitive digital electronics from back EMF from the
electromechanical components. Or the rechargable battery pack
couldn't deliver sufficient power to reliably operate both the
digital electronics and the electromechanical components
simultaneously, so they opted to leave in the small lithium, rather
than making the AA battery pack bigger.

--
Ciao!

Joe
Click to expand...
--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
Click to expand...
--
Sigma SD9
24-70EX
Olympus c4040z
http://kwietone0.tripod.com
Gallery
http://www.pbase.com/sigmasd9/kosly_joseph
 
Joseph S. Wisniewski said:
Dominic Groß said:
I still have a whole bunch of Li-Ion cells and ICs to handle them
lying here. Only made a high power LED torch that will now have
enough battery power for 1 year of constant usage (Li-Ions are such
an overkill for that :).
Not to sure what I will do with the others since they are a bit to
thick to fit inside the SD9 and I want to avoid to make the body
even bigger as it is.
Click to expand...
Let me guess, they're 18mm in diameter, instead of 14mm like a
standard AA, but AA length, 49 or 50mm.
Click to expand...
Well I have those round cellls, yoused them in the torch but had to buy 20, anyway there were so dirt cheap that it did not matter. As well as some prism cells (not that cheap). I thought about removing the Battery tray and insert them in the big room there but well they are all just mm to thick (the prism cells even less). I could easily get 7.2V/2600mah inside the body if those prism cells would just be a bit smaller. I could insert two of them (1300mah) but this leaves about 50% of the Space in the body unused, adding another two above the others is just 2mm to high...
Joseph S Wisniewski said:
Joseph S Wisniewski said:
Maybe I will find a way to use them after thinking a while. Imho
this would be the ultimate solution.
Click to expand...
Well, the SD-9 can run on 4 NiMH batteries, that's only 4.8V (I
screwed up earlier) and it can also run on a pair of CR-V2 lithuim
cells, which is 6.0V. So it's got to have some sort of internal
voltage regulator. If that's a switching power supply, then you
should be able to get away with 7.4V. (Note: I said "should" as in
"this is conjecture, I take no responsibility for smoking
cameras"). And, if it has a switching regulator, increasing the
voltage will reduce the current draw in the digital section.
Click to expand...
Well I have not tried the internal conncetions but it works at the external DC port. The simple reason is that all devices I have checked for this (DV Camcorders for example) so far have either diodes or something else there to drop the voltage a bit.
Joseph S Wisniewski said:
That means there's a whole bunch of ways to power the SD-9. The
easy way (easy to find, easy to use) is to get a pair of 5/4 AA
Li-Ion batteries. This gets you a 14mm diameter, 64mm long 1100mAH
package (add two "dummy batteries, 35mm long) that should perform
as well as 4 AA NiMH 1600mAH batteries, but weigh 63 grams less.
Most Li-Ion battery manufacturers have a 5/4 AA in their lineup.
They're easy to find.
Click to expand...
But hard to get, at least here in Europe. Some RC fanatics told me about them but they would not gave the few away they got. It took me month to get the standard round cells and the prism cells. And there was no way to get other sizes (even if I would order hundreds of them), if you know someone who would sell them for a reasonable price I would really apreciate it. What would you guess how long it took till my Li-Ion charging IC from Linear technologies was delivered? From the order to the day it finally arrived here....

--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
 
Even simpler:
K Joseph said:
Can you just elaborate what the RED 1, 2, 3 stands for in the last
picture?
Click to expand...
This was from a explanation for the 4nimh solution I emailed someone. Nothing important, I only included that picture to show were the wire goes through
K Joseph said:
Make a battery sized cork device with a positive and negative end,
to fit in the CR123 compartment.
Click to expand...
only a positive end make sure not to have any connection with the negative pole inside the CR123 compartment (thanks for the word, I searched my mind days for it and couldn't find it ;) )
K Joseph said:
Take a wire, run it between Each end of the dummy battery to the
respected side of the 'battery compartment in the Sigma SD9
Click to expand...
run it between the positive end of the battery tray (see picture 3) and the positive end on the dummy (shown in picture 1). This positive end connects the 4 batteries (what you grab with the wire from the tray) to the negative pole of the cell nr. 5 and the positive pole of this one will connect to the positive pole the CRs used. The negative pole (the one inside the CR compartment) is connected with the negative pole of the tray over the Camera so we don't need a negative conncetion...
K Joseph said:
And then you'll be able to use regular battery compartment to
supply power to operate all camera functions?
Click to expand...
If done as described above yes, but I still have not tested how many shoots I can get (=the 5 batteries are still full)
K Joseph said:
Dominic Groß said:
Joseph S. Wisniewski said:
keven Jam said:
Just a little change for my SD9 Power system,
you can diy yourself , no need CR 123 A Battery again
please comment
Click to expand...
I can't help thinking that there's got to be some good reason not
to do this. I just can't think of what it is.

Sigma and Fuji (with their S2) make some pretty heavy modifications
to the film cameras (Sigma SA-9 and Nikon N80) that they use. This
seems like such a trivial morification. Nikon and Canon managed to
do a pretty good job of it in their D100 and D60.

Sigma isn't stupid. They have to know how the whole "double
battery" thing affects people's perception of the camera. They've
seen Fuji get slammed by the press repeatedly over the last couple
of years for needing two batteries. Adding a single wire is such a
low cost way around this problem that there must be a catch.

Silly theories: the lithium battery runs the motors and solenoids
part of the camera, so the separate batteries allow Sigma to
isolate the sensitive digital electronics from back EMF from the
electromechanical components. Or the rechargable battery pack
couldn't deliver sufficient power to reliably operate both the
digital electronics and the electromechanical components
simultaneously, so they opted to leave in the small lithium, rather
than making the AA battery pack bigger.

--
Ciao!

Joe
Click to expand...
--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
Click to expand...
--
Sigma SD9
24-70EX
Olympus c4040z
http://kwietone0.tripod.com
Gallery
http://www.pbase.com/sigmasd9/kosly_joseph
Click to expand...
--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
 
I forgot to add, I though about buying the Battery grip and slaughtering it. Looks like I could fit in the big Li-ion cells in their. But because I have to much of these thoughts and to little time it got a really bad place in my queue :))

--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
 
I have this Homer Simpson like feeling atm. Thanks that you all brought me back to the batteries. After reading your post I thought about measuring the Round Cells again, diameter is 17mm (the standard says 17,7) and length is 65mm (again a bit smaller than the standard size). I knew that the stacked prism cells are a bit bigger and don't fit and thought: "Why the hell don't the round cells fit". Got them out and tried it again, they got stuck. I had a closer look...

Doh! they are stuck because I try to push them agains the tripod screw...
(don't beat me because of this stupid behaviour..)

some fideling later they were all in. This leads me to the assumption that I can with a bit more trying tomorrow put in 4 of those cells (sanyo 1300mah 3,6V). So this would be real power, even more than a comparable 2600mah nimh solution because at some point the nimhs still got power but the voltage is too low for the SD9, therefore some potential of rechargeables is wasted (and thats also the reason why the CR V or whatever they are called) work better...

The only thing I would need is a spare battery tray from which I can rip the cap, looks really uncool with the side of the AA compartment open...

Dominic
Joseph S. Wisniewski said:
Dominic Groß said:
I still have a whole bunch of Li-Ion cells and ICs to handle them
lying here. Only made a high power LED torch that will now have
enough battery power for 1 year of constant usage (Li-Ions are such
an overkill for that :).
Not to sure what I will do with the others since they are a bit to
thick to fit inside the SD9 and I want to avoid to make the body
even bigger as it is.
Click to expand...
Let me guess, they're 18mm in diameter, instead of 14mm like a
standard AA, but AA length, 49 or 50mm.
Joseph S Wisniewski said:
Maybe I will find a way to use them after thinking a while. Imho
this would be the ultimate solution.
Click to expand...
Well, the SD-9 can run on 4 NiMH batteries, that's only 4.8V (I
screwed up earlier) and it can also run on a pair of CR-V2 lithuim
cells, which is 6.0V. So it's got to have some sort of internal
voltage regulator. If that's a switching power supply, then you
should be able to get away with 7.4V. (Note: I said "should" as in
"this is conjecture, I take no responsibility for smoking
cameras"). And, if it has a switching regulator, increasing the
voltage will reduce the current draw in the digital section.

That means there's a whole bunch of ways to power the SD-9. The
easy way (easy to find, easy to use) is to get a pair of 5/4 AA
Li-Ion batteries. This gets you a 14mm diameter, 64mm long 1100mAH
package (add two "dummy batteries, 35mm long) that should perform
as well as 4 AA NiMH 1600mAH batteries, but weigh 63 grams less.
Most Li-Ion battery manufacturers have a 5/4 AA in their lineup.
They're easy to find.

More esoteric, some have an 8/4 AA, which gives you 2500mAH in a
14mm x 100mm package. That's the equivelant of 3850 mAH NiMH, or
about twice the shooting time you're used to now on a charge, and
you're still 25 grams lighter.

Easy to get, but difficult to use, four AA lithiums, 14mm x 50mm,
650mAH, two cells in series, with PTC (positive temp coefficient)
resistors connecting the series batteries in parallel. Essentially,
rechargable CR-V3 packs. That's only 1300mAH (2000mAH NiMH
equivelant) so it really sin't worth the trouble compared to the
5/4 AA solution.

Now, if you had enough room for those little 18mm x 50mm 1400 mAH
gems (I call them "fat AA" batteries) that Nikon and Canon use in
the D100 and 10D, you'd be all set.

--
Ciao!

Joe
Click to expand...
--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
 
Brilliant Dominic,

If I can't find CR123's for a dollar a piece, i may look into the mod:)
Dominic Groß said:
Dominic Groß said:
Can you just elaborate what the RED 1, 2, 3 stands for in the last
picture?
Click to expand...
This was from a explanation for the 4nimh solution I emailed
someone. Nothing important, I only included that picture to show
were the wire goes through
Dominic Groß said:
Make a battery sized cork device with a positive and negative end,
to fit in the CR123 compartment.
Click to expand...
only a positive end make sure not to have any connection with the
negative pole inside the CR123 compartment (thanks for the word, I
searched my mind days for it and couldn't find it ;) )
Dominic Groß said:
Take a wire, run it between Each end of the dummy battery to the
respected side of the 'battery compartment in the Sigma SD9
Click to expand...
run it between the positive end of the battery tray (see picture 3)
and the positive end on the dummy (shown in picture 1). This
positive end connects the 4 batteries (what you grab with the wire
from the tray) to the negative pole of the cell nr. 5 and the
positive pole of this one will connect to the positive pole the CRs
used. The negative pole (the one inside the CR compartment) is
connected with the negative pole of the tray over the Camera so we
don't need a negative conncetion...
Dominic Groß said:
And then you'll be able to use regular battery compartment to
supply power to operate all camera functions?
Click to expand...
If done as described above yes, but I still have not tested how
many shoots I can get (=the 5 batteries are still full)
Dominic Groß said:
Dominic Groß said:
Joseph S. Wisniewski said:
keven Jam said:
Just a little change for my SD9 Power system,
you can diy yourself , no need CR 123 A Battery again
please comment
Click to expand...
I can't help thinking that there's got to be some good reason not
to do this. I just can't think of what it is.

Sigma and Fuji (with their S2) make some pretty heavy modifications
to the film cameras (Sigma SA-9 and Nikon N80) that they use. This
seems like such a trivial morification. Nikon and Canon managed to
do a pretty good job of it in their D100 and D60.

Sigma isn't stupid. They have to know how the whole "double
battery" thing affects people's perception of the camera. They've
seen Fuji get slammed by the press repeatedly over the last couple
of years for needing two batteries. Adding a single wire is such a
low cost way around this problem that there must be a catch.

Silly theories: the lithium battery runs the motors and solenoids
part of the camera, so the separate batteries allow Sigma to
isolate the sensitive digital electronics from back EMF from the
electromechanical components. Or the rechargable battery pack
couldn't deliver sufficient power to reliably operate both the
digital electronics and the electromechanical components
simultaneously, so they opted to leave in the small lithium, rather
than making the AA battery pack bigger.

--
Ciao!

Joe
Click to expand...
--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
Click to expand...
--
Sigma SD9
24-70EX
Olympus c4040z
http://kwietone0.tripod.com
Gallery
http://www.pbase.com/sigmasd9/kosly_joseph
Click to expand...
--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
Click to expand...
--
Sigma SD9
24-70EX
Olympus c4040z
http://kwietone0.tripod.com
Gallery
http://www.pbase.com/sigmasd9/kosly_joseph
 
Well there is another Barrier inside the AA compartment. Getting it through next to the tripod screw gets in 2 Cells. But there should be enough space for 4 Cells. Tried it but found 2 plastic parts at the rear end of the compartment that are in the way, maybe they are there to get the tray straight in but I am still not sure what their purpose is. Maybe they are easy to get out, I will try. Looks like this (viewed from above):

I........I
I........I
I........I
I........I
I\...... I
I \.... .I
I..\.. ..I

--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
 
is a part of the inner body construction therefore I won't touch it...
Li-ion will go in an external solution...
Dominic Groß said:
Well there is another Barrier inside the AA compartment. Getting it
through next to the tripod screw gets in 2 Cells. But there should
be enough space for 4 Cells. Tried it but found 2 plastic parts at
the rear end of the compartment that are in the way, maybe they are
there to get the tray straight in but I am still not sure what
their purpose is. Maybe they are easy to get out, I will try. Looks
like this (viewed from above):

I........I
I........I
I........I
I........I
I\...... I
I \.... .I
I..\.. ..I

--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
Click to expand...
--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
 
After aprox. 70 shoots yesterday with a CF Card, reviewing after 12 shoots and deleting them in Camera I thought that I need to test the setup with 1 wire. The Li-Ion did not fit so I had some time.

Note: I did not recharge the batteries they were already used for 70 shoots.

Putted a Microdrive in the SD9, mounted the 70-300 APO Lens (I think it is bigger than my others so it consumes more power for AF). switched the quick preview on. I made some pictures with Mirro Lookup (consume more power), longtime exposures (also consume more power, notice the lag before they are written). Made about 10. Reviewed and deleted. Switched it to continous mode (rapid firing + the buffer should consume some more power) and filled the whole MD. Now it is full with 170 Hi Res images. While doing that I got 3 false readings on the D Batteries (had to remove the tray) but this is quite logic because they are drained more than before. Opening and closing the CR door or pulling the tray out a bit and in again worked. Anyway I deleted all the stuff on the MD and keeped shooting. Maybe a second wire back to the D part would help to avoid that. For now I deleted the MD and started shooting again, currently I am on shoot 43 and think I can go further although the Ds are nearly emtpy now and the cell nr. 5 is still quite full. Guess how many shoots one could get with the 5th cell also added to the D part like in Keven Jam's design (I have yet to explore if the hole inside the body is big enough for the second wire)...
--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
 
Instead of running the risk of the wrath of Sigma (in case you have to have it repaired), Botach is selling the CR 123's for a buck a piece. That's as of May 20th.
Dominic Groß said:
After aprox. 70 shoots yesterday with a CF Card, reviewing after 12
shoots and deleting them in Camera I thought that I need to test
the setup with 1 wire. The Li-Ion did not fit so I had some time.

Note: I did not recharge the batteries they were already used for
70 shoots.

Putted a Microdrive in the SD9, mounted the 70-300 APO Lens (I
think it is bigger than my others so it consumes more power for
AF). switched the quick preview on. I made some pictures with Mirro
Lookup (consume more power), longtime exposures (also consume more
power, notice the lag before they are written). Made about 10.
Reviewed and deleted. Switched it to continous mode (rapid firing +
the buffer should consume some more power) and filled the whole MD.
Now it is full with 170 Hi Res images. While doing that I got 3
false readings on the D Batteries (had to remove the tray) but this
is quite logic because they are drained more than before. Opening
and closing the CR door or pulling the tray out a bit and in again
worked. Anyway I deleted all the stuff on the MD and keeped
shooting. Maybe a second wire back to the D part would help to
avoid that. For now I deleted the MD and started shooting again,
currently I am on shoot 43 and think I can go further although the
Ds are nearly emtpy now and the cell nr. 5 is still quite full.
Guess how many shoots one could get with the 5th cell also added to
the D part like in Keven Jam's design (I have yet to explore if the
hole inside the body is big enough for the second wire)...
--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
Click to expand...
 
How long do you suppose that price will last? Have you ordered from them before ? I'm thinking of stocking up on CR123's :)
Ken N said:
Dominic Groß said:
After aprox. 70 shoots yesterday with a CF Card, reviewing after 12
shoots and deleting them in Camera I thought that I need to test
the setup with 1 wire. The Li-Ion did not fit so I had some time.

Note: I did not recharge the batteries they were already used for
70 shoots.

Putted a Microdrive in the SD9, mounted the 70-300 APO Lens (I
think it is bigger than my others so it consumes more power for
AF). switched the quick preview on. I made some pictures with Mirro
Lookup (consume more power), longtime exposures (also consume more
power, notice the lag before they are written). Made about 10.
Reviewed and deleted. Switched it to continous mode (rapid firing +
the buffer should consume some more power) and filled the whole MD.
Now it is full with 170 Hi Res images. While doing that I got 3
false readings on the D Batteries (had to remove the tray) but this
is quite logic because they are drained more than before. Opening
and closing the CR door or pulling the tray out a bit and in again
worked. Anyway I deleted all the stuff on the MD and keeped
shooting. Maybe a second wire back to the D part would help to
avoid that. For now I deleted the MD and started shooting again,
currently I am on shoot 43 and think I can go further although the
Ds are nearly emtpy now and the cell nr. 5 is still quite full.
Guess how many shoots one could get with the 5th cell also added to
the D part like in Keven Jam's design (I have yet to explore if the
hole inside the body is big enough for the second wire)...
--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
Sigma SD9
24-70EX
Olympus c4040z
http://kwietone0.tripod.com
Gallery
http://www.pbase.com/sigmasd9/kosly_joseph
 
I still hope this opens Sigmas eyes, the could have done a better job !
Ken N said:
Dominic Groß said:
After aprox. 70 shoots yesterday with a CF Card, reviewing after 12
shoots and deleting them in Camera I thought that I need to test
the setup with 1 wire. The Li-Ion did not fit so I had some time.

Note: I did not recharge the batteries they were already used for
70 shoots.

Putted a Microdrive in the SD9, mounted the 70-300 APO Lens (I
think it is bigger than my others so it consumes more power for
AF). switched the quick preview on. I made some pictures with Mirro
Lookup (consume more power), longtime exposures (also consume more
power, notice the lag before they are written). Made about 10.
Reviewed and deleted. Switched it to continous mode (rapid firing +
the buffer should consume some more power) and filled the whole MD.
Now it is full with 170 Hi Res images. While doing that I got 3
false readings on the D Batteries (had to remove the tray) but this
is quite logic because they are drained more than before. Opening
and closing the CR door or pulling the tray out a bit and in again
worked. Anyway I deleted all the stuff on the MD and keeped
shooting. Maybe a second wire back to the D part would help to
avoid that. For now I deleted the MD and started shooting again,
currently I am on shoot 43 and think I can go further although the
Ds are nearly emtpy now and the cell nr. 5 is still quite full.
Guess how many shoots one could get with the 5th cell also added to
the D part like in Keven Jam's design (I have yet to explore if the
hole inside the body is big enough for the second wire)...
--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
 
I had already ordered a bunch of them at the higher price...unfortunately. I can't understand why they told me about the sale after I had already ordered. This is the first time I've ordered through this company, so I'm not sure about the quality. They supposedly supply batteries to the military, so I figured they must be pretty good if the meet Military speciifactions. I'll be posting more after I've used some.
K Joseph said:
Ken N said:
Dominic Groß said:
After aprox. 70 shoots yesterday with a CF Card, reviewing after 12
shoots and deleting them in Camera I thought that I need to test
the setup with 1 wire. The Li-Ion did not fit so I had some time.

Note: I did not recharge the batteries they were already used for
70 shoots.

Putted a Microdrive in the SD9, mounted the 70-300 APO Lens (I
think it is bigger than my others so it consumes more power for
AF). switched the quick preview on. I made some pictures with Mirro
Lookup (consume more power), longtime exposures (also consume more
power, notice the lag before they are written). Made about 10.
Reviewed and deleted. Switched it to continous mode (rapid firing +
the buffer should consume some more power) and filled the whole MD.
Now it is full with 170 Hi Res images. While doing that I got 3
false readings on the D Batteries (had to remove the tray) but this
is quite logic because they are drained more than before. Opening
and closing the CR door or pulling the tray out a bit and in again
worked. Anyway I deleted all the stuff on the MD and keeped
shooting. Maybe a second wire back to the D part would help to
avoid that. For now I deleted the MD and started shooting again,
currently I am on shoot 43 and think I can go further although the
Ds are nearly emtpy now and the cell nr. 5 is still quite full.
Guess how many shoots one could get with the 5th cell also added to
the D part like in Keven Jam's design (I have yet to explore if the
hole inside the body is big enough for the second wire)...
--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
Sigma SD9
24-70EX
Olympus c4040z
http://kwietone0.tripod.com
Gallery
http://www.pbase.com/sigmasd9/kosly_joseph
Click to expand...
 
http://www.sd9.250x.com/sd9_power_new/

I have no connected the 5th cell to the D part as well, no more false readings and everything is still removable within seconds and without opening / modifiying the body...
--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
 
Dominic Groß said:
I still hope this opens Sigmas eyes, the could have done a better
job !
Click to expand...
I think it's similar to the different paths Fuji, Nikon, and Kodak took when they took the Nikon N80 film body and made the Nikon D100, Fuji S2, and Kodak 14n.

The N80 runs on 6V, a pair of CR123A lithium cells, just like the SA-9.

When Fuji built the S2, they left the CR123A cells in place to power the mechanism, and ran the digial part of the camera from four AA cells, either NiMH (4.8V) or Alkaline or Lithium (6V). This is just like the SD-9.

Nikon and Kodak went off in the other direction, running the electronics from rechargable lithium (7.4V) or from 6 AA cells, which gives 7.2V for NiMH or 9V for alkaline.

So, apparently Fuji and Sigma both reasoned that you shouldn't try to run a 6V camera on 4.8V. While Nikon and Kodak decided it was fine to run a 6V camera on 7.4 or 9V Or they have dual output switching power supplies in the cameras, producing regulated 5V (or maybe 3.3V) for the digital electronics, and regulated 6V for the camera.

--
Ciao!

Joe
 
Well now it runs from 6.25 V, took out the diode I had in to drop it a bit (0.7v). And how it works now. I get way more shoots because of the higher voltage of the D part....
Joseph S. Wisniewski said:
Dominic Groß said:
I still hope this opens Sigmas eyes, the could have done a better
job !
Click to expand...
I think it's similar to the different paths Fuji, Nikon, and Kodak
took when they took the Nikon N80 film body and made the Nikon
D100, Fuji S2, and Kodak 14n.

The N80 runs on 6V, a pair of CR123A lithium cells, just like the
SA-9.

When Fuji built the S2, they left the CR123A cells in place to
power the mechanism, and ran the digial part of the camera from
four AA cells, either NiMH (4.8V) or Alkaline or Lithium (6V). This
is just like the SD-9.

Nikon and Kodak went off in the other direction, running the
electronics from rechargable lithium (7.4V) or from 6 AA cells,
which gives 7.2V for NiMH or 9V for alkaline.

So, apparently Fuji and Sigma both reasoned that you shouldn't try
to run a 6V camera on 4.8V. While Nikon and Kodak decided it was
fine to run a 6V camera on 7.4 or 9V Or they have dual output
switching power supplies in the cameras, producing regulated 5V (or
maybe 3.3V) for the digital electronics, and regulated 6V for the
camera.

--
Ciao!

Joe
Click to expand...
--
http://www.domgross.de
please don't run away because of the cheap design of the first page :)
ICQ UIN: 289647506
 
Dominic Groß said:
Joseph S. Wisniewski said:
Dominic Groß said:
I still hope this opens Sigmas eyes, the could have done a better
job !
Click to expand...
So, apparently Fuji and Sigma both reasoned that you shouldn't try
to run a 6V camera on 4.8V. While Nikon and Kodak decided it was
fine to run a 6V camera on 7.4 or 9V Or they have dual output
switching power supplies in the cameras, producing regulated 5V (or
maybe 3.3V) for the digital electronics, and regulated 6V for the
camera.
Click to expand...
Well now it runs from 6.25 V, took out the diode I had in to drop
it a bit (0.7v). And how it works now. I get way more shoots
because of the higher voltage of the D part....
Click to expand...
So, now all you need is a way of charging an odd number of batteries.

Wonder how it would do on 7.4V...

--
Ciao!

Joe
 
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