Brian Lavoie
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bluelemmy wrote:
The shop that lent me the lens has them on sale for £86 now!
Which is why the LX3 was such a failure: no one ever zoomed the lens beyond 50mm equiv :-D007peter wrote:
Having say that, why would you want to buy a 30mm for a M43? 30mm = 60mm on M43, it is an ODD focal length.
I love cats like you already know. Lovely pictures of them. Liked much. Wonderful creatures.jalywol wrote:
Lenses are not just about sharpness. The best lenses have qualities that bring something special to the image, and the PL 25mm has that. (It's one of two M43 lenses that I own that do; the other is the 12mm Oly.)
Sharpness is a good thing, mostly, but sharpness alone without nice bokeh tends to make photos look kind of cold and clinical. I never warmed to the 20mm Panasonic for that particular reason, while I absolutely love the 25mm. (The 45mm f1.8 Oly is also very sharp, but I prefer the output of my 50mm f1.7 Yashica ML legacy lens...it has a lyrical quality to the output that just looks better to me.)
I also think this depends on your planned usage of the lens. I got the 25mm to be my fast, low light, indoor lens for portrait and family stuff, and it really shines at that. I don't use it for much outdoor work since I don't really need shallow DOF in architectural or nature shots, and its not a focal length that is terribly useful for me in those situations (I either go much wider or much longer). If you are planning to use the lens primarily outdoors or in good light, then the Sigma should be an excellent option. If you want a fast, low light lens, then the Sigma is probably not the best choice.
-J
Here are a couple of photos taken with the 25mm:
Alumna Gorp wrote:
bluelemmy wrote:
The shop that lent me the lens has them on sale for £86 now!






All these photos you've posted do not to support your statement. They could be taken with ANY lens - 1.7/20, 2.8/30, 1.8/45 and even my zoom 14-45.mfj197 wrote:
The PL25 is a very different lens to the Sigma 30. At all comparable apertures it is a bit sharper, on the cusp of being noticable. The results, according to the oft-repeated LensRentals tests, are as follows (first number is centre sharpness measured by MTF50, second is average across the frame:
. PL25 Sigma 30mm
F1.4 690 590 -
F2.8 960 820 825 690
F4 980 850 910 740
The huge difference though is that the PL25 will go to F1.4 whereas the Sigma's fastest aperture is F2.8. Thus the PL25 is letting four times as much light hit the sensor, allowing use of a much lower ISO or much faster shutter speed. F1.4 on the 25 also gives a much shallower depth of field, which is the reason a lot of people like this lens. Compare the following for a typical portrait:
. PL25 Sigma 30mm
Subject distance
(for same framing) 5 feet 6 feet
Depth of field 0.51 feet 1.02 feet
Not only is the depth of what is in focus much shallower, but the background is much more blurred. Only you can decide whether this difference is worth the considerable extra expense.
Some examples of PL25 at maximum aperture:
Michael
s_grins wrote:
All these photos you've posted do not to support your statement. They could be taken with ANY lens - 1.7/20, 2.8/30, 1.8/45 and even my zoom 14-45.
Your statement is flat-out wrong.s_grins wrote:
All these photos you've posted do not to support your statement. They could be taken with ANY lens - 1.7/20, 2.8/30, 1.8/45 and even my zoom 14-45.
Here's the deal, the 25mm f/1.4 can do all of the things both FFS and sbszine listed. It can do detailed subjects by daylight or flash. It can do handycam style deep DOF video.FFS wrote:
Concise and to the point.sbszine wrote:
If you're doing available light photography, shallow DOF stuff, or freezing motion. get the Panasonic. If you're shooting detailed subjects by daylight or flash, get the Sigma.
Another thing for the video is that the Sigma is good if you want scenes of handycam style of deep DOF. Useful if you don't want to lose subject focus while filming scenes with lots of uncontrolled motions.
If you want that silver screen look of shallow DOF, especially with closed up portrait clips, go for the 25mm at f1.4, example: interviews or conversations scenes.
He could have taken that with any lens, just the results might be different ;-) Anyway with the OMD the IBIS would soak up some of the slower shutter and iso400 is no biggie either, even iso800 would be totally fine with this subject, 1/160 is a good speed if she's not too active, but below 1/60 would probably be OK if you took a 3 shot burst. DOF calculator says 1m subject ie 3ft only( this could be such) will only yield a few cm difference so if the background is far enough away then this is actually very doable with the 30mm f2.8, I think the 20mm f1.7 is pushing it due to FL, I never get much blur with that one for such a subject. The zoom though I would say would be impossible with! far too slow for the object distance.texinwien wrote:
Your statement is flat-out wrong.s_grins wrote:
All these photos you've posted do not to support your statement. They could be taken with ANY lens - 1.7/20, 2.8/30, 1.8/45 and even my zoom 14-45.
Do you know that what you're saying is wrong, and say it anyway to make yourself feel better? Or do you sincerely not understand that it's wrong, and why? If the latter, you'd be well advised to refrain from making such ill-informed statements about subjects you don't understand in the future.
I'll just take this last photo, for example, and we'll consider the Sigma 30mm, f/2.8. Since you said all of the pictures "could be taken with ANY lens", I can pick any lens and any of Michael's pictures.
This particular photo was taken at f/1.4, ISO 200, S=1/160. If Michael had used the Sigma, he would have been at f/2.8, two stops slower. he would have had to either quadruple his ISO or quarter his shutter speed.
Had he quadrupled his ISO, the image would have significantly more noise. Had he quartered his shutter speed, the image would, almost certainly, be less sharp, due to the effect of subject motion.
And that's not even mentioning the 2-stop difference in DOF/bokeh.
So no, these photos could not have been "taken with ANY lens", as you claim. Your statement is flat-out wrong.
Well, that's the point. He couldn't have taken that picture, because the results would have been different. Nothing to argue about here.A2T2 wrote:
He could have taken that with any lens, just the results might be different ;-)texinwien wrote:
Your statement is flat-out wrong.s_grins wrote:
All these photos you've posted do not to support your statement. They could be taken with ANY lens - 1.7/20, 2.8/30, 1.8/45 and even my zoom 14-45.
Do you know that what you're saying is wrong, and say it anyway to make yourself feel better? Or do you sincerely not understand that it's wrong, and why? If the latter, you'd be well advised to refrain from making such ill-informed statements about subjects you don't understand in the future.
I'll just take this last photo, for example, and we'll consider the Sigma 30mm, f/2.8. Since you said all of the pictures "could be taken with ANY lens", I can pick any lens and any of Michael's pictures.
This particular photo was taken at f/1.4, ISO 200, S=1/160. If Michael had used the Sigma, he would have been at f/2.8, two stops slower. he would have had to either quadruple his ISO or quarter his shutter speed.
Had he quadrupled his ISO, the image would have significantly more noise. Had he quartered his shutter speed, the image would, almost certainly, be less sharp, due to the effect of subject motion.
And that's not even mentioning the 2-stop difference in DOF/bokeh.
So no, these photos could not have been "taken with ANY lens", as you claim. Your statement is flat-out wrong.
It might be fine, but it would have more noise than that picture, which was shot at ISO 200.Anyway with the OMD the IBIS would soak up some of the slower shutter and iso400 is no biggie either, even iso800 would be totally fine with this subject,
Again, if only one of the shots in the 3-shot burst was OK, it might not be exactly this one, with exactly this look, and there's no guarantee that any of the individual photos from the burst would have frozen the movement exactly as well as using 1/160 did.1/160 is a good speed if she's not too active, but below 1/60 would probably be OK if you took a 3 shot burst.
The few cm difference, again, makes the resulting image different than that image with which we're comparing. It may not be a huge difference, but it's a difference nonetheless.DOF calculator says 1m subject ie 3ft only( this could be such) will only yield a few cm difference so if the background is far enough away then this is actually very doable with the 30mm f2.8
As you've admitted in each of these points, it would have been impossible to replicate that image under those exact conditions with the Sigma 30mm f/2.8. A similar image, perhaps, but not the exact image, and it's up to each photographer to decide whether the difference is worth the price premium.I think the 20mm f1.7 is pushing it due to FL, I never get much blur with that one for such a subject. The zoom though I would say would be impossible with! far too slow for the object distance.
BTW the 30mm is perfectly able of doing bokeh at moderate speeds as shown in Lenstip samples. See here:A2T2 wrote:
He could have taken that with any lens, just the results might be different ;-) Anyway with the OMD the IBIS would soak up some of the slower shutter and iso400 is no biggie either, even iso800 would be totally fine with this subject, 1/160 is a good speed if she's not too active, but below 1/60 would probably be OK if you took a 3 shot burst. DOF calculator says 1m subject ie 3ft only( this could be such) will only yield a few cm difference so if the background is far enough away then this is actually very doable with the 30mm f2.8, I think the 20mm f1.7 is pushing it due to FL, I never get much blur with that one for such a subject. The zoom though I would say would be impossible with! far too slow for the object distance.
amalric wrote:
BTW the 30mm is perfectly able of doing bokeh at moderate speeds as shown in Lenstip samples. See here:A2T2 wrote:
He could have taken that with any lens, just the results might be different ;-) Anyway with the OMD the IBIS would soak up some of the slower shutter and iso400 is no biggie either, even iso800 would be totally fine with this subject, 1/160 is a good speed if she's not too active, but below 1/60 would probably be OK if you took a 3 shot burst. DOF calculator says 1m subject ie 3ft only( this could be such) will only yield a few cm difference so if the background is far enough away then this is actually very doable with the 30mm f2.8, I think the 20mm f1.7 is pushing it due to FL, I never get much blur with that one for such a subject. The zoom though I would say would be impossible with! far too slow for the object distance.
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/51593273
I knew that in the end the argument would be about bokeh, but since I couldn't care less I had a good laugh
Lenstip is always helpful even when grumpy![]()
Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/amalric
I don't need to. Here's what you said:s_grins wrote:
You're very selective. Could you, please comment on other 5 preceding shots?
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Looking for equilibrium...
So what you're saying is that you could leave the camera and subject in the same spot and the 25mm @ f/1.4 and 30mm f/2.8 will give you the same shot?
A2T2 wrote:
DOF calculator says 1m subject ie 3ft only( this could be such) will only yield a few cm difference so if the background is far enough away then this is actually very doable with the 30mm f2.8, I think the 20mm f1.7 is pushing it due to FL, I never get much blur with that one for such a subject. The zoom though I would say would be impossible with! far too slow for the object distance.
texinwien wrote:
s_grins wrote:
You're very selective. Could you, please comment on other 5 preceding shots?