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Learning to use the Tamron 70-300 VC with a D7000
- Thread starter autre_pensee
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Brev00
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Being harsh is your thing. You are definitely superior to me in that regard . And, that is about it.
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autre_pensee
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Well, I am definitely too junior on this forum to enter such debate.
However, I appreciate all of your advice and am sure it will be very useful.
Joe,
How do you like the VC on the Tamron? I like it a lot so far as it helps me aim quite a bit at 300, although I have heard it may be hard to do panning with it. Still have to learn i guess. And that bird looks like it hasnt been exercising in a while! That picture is funny
Brev, NFPotter, Stacey,
Thanks a lot for the encouragement and advice. I still have a lot of work to do. As you suggested NFPotter, I need to work on my stance in order to be able to shoot steadily at slower shutter speeds. I think that will help me a lot when shooting at 300. I'll look into sniper stances but i had assumed they did most of their shooting laying flat whereas I am still standing up or crouching down. Do you guys have any suggestions for tutorials on proper photography stances?
Also, I think my question about obstacles still stands:
However, I appreciate all of your advice and am sure it will be very useful.
Joe,
How do you like the VC on the Tamron? I like it a lot so far as it helps me aim quite a bit at 300, although I have heard it may be hard to do panning with it. Still have to learn i guess. And that bird looks like it hasnt been exercising in a while! That picture is funny
Brev, NFPotter, Stacey,
Thanks a lot for the encouragement and advice. I still have a lot of work to do. As you suggested NFPotter, I need to work on my stance in order to be able to shoot steadily at slower shutter speeds. I think that will help me a lot when shooting at 300. I'll look into sniper stances but i had assumed they did most of their shooting laying flat whereas I am still standing up or crouching down. Do you guys have any suggestions for tutorials on proper photography stances?
Also, I think my question about obstacles still stands:
One thing i was wondering. How does one deal with branches and other obstacles standing in the way but not obstructing completely the subject? Other than the obvious which is move to the side. and get a new line of sight... Do you lock focus around the subject and then recompose? Do you use manual focus? Plan C?[\quote]
The reason I ask this is because the birds near my house often hide in a set of trees lining up in front of a fence. There is no way for me to get around or a different POV. so there are often obstacles in my line of sight and automatic focus becomes challenging. DOF is shallow enough that focusing around the bird then recomposing may yield bad results. Is manual focus the only option in this case?
Thanks again to all of you for taking the time in trying to help me with my photography
Brev00
Forum Pro
The Tammy has a nice mf override that can help adjust the af as needed. You can also set a focus trap. Prefocus on a commonly visited spot and switch to full mf then wait. Some will set out a bird house or leave bait.
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Lets see, you are an expert photographer (better than any of us of course) and also a fantastic guitar player. What else are you better than anyone else at?
nfpotter wrote:
Stacey_K wrote:
See you have to learn how to critique photography. First you personally insult the person, then you critique it. I love when people try to explain about older cameras etc (like I'm a noobie) when they have no clue the large vintage collection I have
One thing I have noticed with the tamron VC. When it first locks in, the image jumps. You will notice as you recompose, the image in the finder moves in "jumps". I have found if I compose in the center of one of the jumps, rather than on the edge of it, I get a much higher keeper rate. I think anyone who has used one of these will understand what I am saying. I have found the vc works VERY well used this way.klaminero wrote:
Well, I am definitely too junior on this forum to enter such debate.
However, I appreciate all of your advice and am sure it will be very useful.
Joe,
How do you like the VC on the Tamron? I like it a lot so far as it helps me aim quite a bit at 300, although I have heard it may be hard to do panning with it. Still have to learn i guess. And that bird looks like it hasnt been exercising in a while! That picture is funny
BTW I shot this little birdie handheld through the not extra clean kitchen window at 1/125 wide open at 300mm / iso 800 and think he turned out pretty good. I do think people are afraid to use higher iso settings, on a D7000 this just isn't much of a problem. Auto ISO on these works really well.
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Stacey
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nfpotter
Senior Member
Stacey_K wrote:
Lets see, you are an expert photographer (better than any of us of course) and also a fantastic guitar player. What else are you better than anyone else at?
nfpotter
Senior Member
nfpotter
Senior Member
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nfpotter
Senior Member
Never said I was superior to you in any regard, Brev!
autre_pensee
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Hi again,
I have used yesterday and today morning to practice some of the advice you guys have given me. Unfortunately, nobody came to "pose" for me like the little guy from last week. So I had definitely less pixels on my subjects this time. There is indeed an incredible difference in sharpness when that is the case it seems.
I tried stopping down to f7.1, then f8, keeping SS above 1/500, practiced my stance. The stance and breathing was the hardest thing. I am far from having that dialed in.
Stacey, I tried to move my tamron around to try to perform the focusing technique mid-jump that you describe, and I Could never do it. I must have misunderstood what you meant.
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Nikon D7000 + 18-105 + 50mm f1.8g + 70-300 VC
SONY HX-100V
I have used yesterday and today morning to practice some of the advice you guys have given me. Unfortunately, nobody came to "pose" for me like the little guy from last week. So I had definitely less pixels on my subjects this time. There is indeed an incredible difference in sharpness when that is the case it seems.
I tried stopping down to f7.1, then f8, keeping SS above 1/500, practiced my stance. The stance and breathing was the hardest thing. I am far from having that dialed in.
Stacey, I tried to move my tamron around to try to perform the focusing technique mid-jump that you describe, and I Could never do it. I must have misunderstood what you meant.
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Nikon D7000 + 18-105 + 50mm f1.8g + 70-300 VC
SONY HX-100V
It's not a "focusing" jump but that you will see the image on the focus screen using the VC "snap" into position. Move the camera with the shutter held half way down and you will see the image in the finder move in -steps- as you slowly move it around. If you recompose where you are to the edge of the next step/jump, the lens VC might "jump" to the next step as you press the shutter and the image ends up blurred.
It's hard to describe but I think you will see what I am taliing about playing with the lens with the shutter held half pressed. I'm sure you have noticed when you half press the shutter it takes a moment for the VC to lock? You need to let it lock before you release the shutter too.
nfpotter
Senior Member
I believe I read the nikon is a "two part" deal but the tamron isn't. They don't work the same way.
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www.photozone.de
"The Tamron lens offers a VC ("Vibration Control") which is comparable to Nikon's VR. When looking through the viewfinder with this lens attached, the image is a lot more stable than with a Nikon VR lens. However, this is not due to much better efficiency of the VC system, it simply works in a different manner. Nikon VR has two stages: as soon as the viewfinder is half pressed VR starts to work with reduced movements to stabilize the viewfinder image. When the shutter is released, the system enables full stabilization movement for the actual exposure.
VC in the other hand seems to be in "full throttle" mode all the time. This results in a rock solid viewfinder image. Sounds good at first, but can become somewhat annoying when trying to slightly adjust composition: VC quite often compensates the intended movements."
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Stacey
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Brev00
Forum Pro
Stacey,
I have never noticed this jumping issue you describe. That is, the force of the vc causing me to lose focus on a subject that hops out of the screen. Maybe because I keep my finger half-pressed on the shutter in af-c mode and recompose less than you. But, I do take quite a few flower images and such in af-s and find the af precise with no interference from the vc. I have read others besides yourself comment on this issue so I might just be oblivious to it. Maybe I just take my time enjoying the lock waiting for the moment. Dunno. The one thing that I have noticed is that there are times I need to use the manual focus override because the af just does not lock on precisely to the specific target. This is especially true when the target has less contrast than the surroundings such as the shaded center of a flower. This has nothing to do with the vc, however. And, the mf does work very nicely. In general, though, I find the vc a tremendous asset in framing images. I go back to my old Tamron 28-300 non-vc and can't believe the wobble at the long end. How did I ever survive?
Brev
I have never noticed this jumping issue you describe. That is, the force of the vc causing me to lose focus on a subject that hops out of the screen. Maybe because I keep my finger half-pressed on the shutter in af-c mode and recompose less than you. But, I do take quite a few flower images and such in af-s and find the af precise with no interference from the vc. I have read others besides yourself comment on this issue so I might just be oblivious to it. Maybe I just take my time enjoying the lock waiting for the moment. Dunno. The one thing that I have noticed is that there are times I need to use the manual focus override because the af just does not lock on precisely to the specific target. This is especially true when the target has less contrast than the surroundings such as the shaded center of a flower. This has nothing to do with the vc, however. And, the mf does work very nicely. In general, though, I find the vc a tremendous asset in framing images. I go back to my old Tamron 28-300 non-vc and can't believe the wobble at the long end. How did I ever survive?
Brev
huh? hops out of the screen? It's not "losing focus" I am talking about.
It has nothing to do with focus.
And my comment has nothing to do with focus.
Let me try one more time. I clearly am not describing this well. Go outside, set the camera on the long end and focus on something like your mailbox. Continue holding the shutter half down slowly move the camera back and forth and watch the mailbox in the finder. At first the mailbox doesn't want to move in the finder as the VC has it "nailed", then lens finally moves outside of what the VC can deal with and the mailbox will move in a small "jump" or jerk. If you are on the edge on when the VC can handle, the camera shake can take it past this "edge" when you snap the shot and blur it.
I've taken a set of shots and most will be sharp with one or two obviously motion blurred and can't think of anything else that could have caused it. Now that I am aware of this, I don't get those blurred shots anymore. Again it's not a focus problem, it a quirk with how tamrons VC works.
autre_pensee
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Stacey_K wrote:
huh? hops out of the screen? It's not "losing focus" I am talking about.
It has nothing to do with focus.
And my comment has nothing to do with focus.
Let me try one more time. I clearly am not describing this well. Go outside, set the camera on the long end and focus on something like your mailbox. Continue holding the shutter half down slowly move the camera back and forth and watch the mailbox in the finder. At first the mailbox doesn't want to move in the finder as the VC has it "nailed", then lens finally moves outside of what the VC can deal with and the mailbox will move in a small "jump" or jerk. If you are on the edge on when the VC can handle, the camera shake can take it past this "edge" when you snap the shot and blur it.
I've taken a set of shots and most will be sharp with one or two obviously motion blurred and can't think of anything else that could have caused it. Now that I am aware of this, I don't get those blurred shots anymore. Again it's not a focus problem, it a quirk with how tamrons VC works.
Brev00
Forum Pro
Thanks for the clarification, Stacey. Still have not noticed this issue. But, now that you have described it so well, I probably will be unable to use this lens without noticing it. So, thanks!
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Exactly. Like I said I can't swear this is how the Tamron VC works but before it started doing this I would randomly get motion blured shots and now I don't. It is -not- a focus issue and it's not an issue at all now that I noticed how this works.
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