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What are you color preferences on the X series?

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Ben Herrmann

Ben Herrmann

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Hello all:

Although I haven't posted much at all on this forum (since I had the S5 Pro), I've been a long time DPReview poster in various forums since 2002. Recently, I made the trek back to Fuji by getting the X10 (a year ago) and within the past few months...the X-E1. And I'm perfectly satisfied with both.

On other fronts, I'm a heavy micro 4/3 user and have the likes of the OMD E-M5, E-PL5, E-P3, GX1 and GF1. And I'm quite enamored with those models and their performance levels.

In getting back to the Fuji cameras, I've tried several color film settings so far, but I'm perplexed a bit here. I recently tried the Velvia color setting - expecting to see reminders of what I used to cherish with Velvia film, but mannnnn.....this Velvia setting does not necessarily produce what I can remember with Velvia film.

I guess what I'm getting at here is, "which is the best film setting" for accurate color - nothing that has over contrasts or punchy colors. So that's why I'm asking, "which color settings do you use - if you use them at all, and why?

Thanks for your indulgence of my question here.
 
I'm evaluating Provia, Astia and Pro Negative N. I think it's going to vary among the three on what I'm shooting. People and portraits it would be Pro Neg .. Landscape either Provia or Astia.. have not decided yet. General everyday will be Provia although I may import it a touch light on the blue.

I'm only a few hundred shots into my discovery of this cameras capabilities and am coming to grips with the lack of need for raw, which I have shot exclusively for years.

Clean ISO6400 OOC jpeg.... don't remember my 5DMKII being that clean.
 
I use Provia... Velvia seems way oversaturated to me
 
You can also change the saturation of each film type by adjusting the colour setting via the Q menu. For example, I find Velvia a lot more palatable with a colour setting of -1.
 
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If you want accurate colors, then it is best to shoot raw and use a custom color profile. The JPEG film simulations are great, but not very accurate.
 
It depends. For landscape work I start with Provia for the widest DR and most natural colors. For walking around New York City I can punch it with Astia. For flowers I found that Velvia can be wonderful and leave me little is any post work.

Below are some jpegs shot in Velvia mode. Top with Tamron 90mm f/2.5 macro and 2/3 Nikon 50mm f/1.8 series E lens

Tamron 90mm
Tamron 90mm

Nikon 50mm f/1.8 E @ f/2
Nikon 50mm f/1.8 E @ f/2

8c53e500caa94ea9bde9d87d7a97362a


Nikon 50mm f/1.8 E
 
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Albert Valentino said:
Al Valentino wrote:

It depends. For landscape work I start with Provia for the widest DR and most natural colors. For walking around New York City I can punch it with Astia. For flowers I found that Velvia can be wonderful and leave me little is any post work.
Click to expand...
I Agree 100% (only difference: I walk around Rome & Florence because i'm Italian)
 
For landscapes, and people, usually Provia. Landscapes especially need the wide dynamic range provided by Provia. Also, it's not oversaturated like Velvia can sometimes be, especially when there's hazy or fog in the distance. Once in a while I'll go Pro-neg for people shots. When shooting around town, Astia w/shadows -1, or if the light is really washing things out (think high noon California sun), then Velvia w/shadows -2.

Provia- crazy dynamic range. Shot through a window, don't mind the reflections.
Provia- crazy dynamic range. Shot through a window, don't mind the reflections.

Astia w/shadows -1 for a little more color pop.
Astia w/shadows -1 for a little more color pop.

Velvia at midday before I figured out the shadows -1 or -2 trick - beautiful colors, but a little too contrasty.
Velvia at midday before I figured out the shadows -1 or -2 trick - beautiful colors, but a little too contrasty.

Provia again. With people.
Provia again. With people.
 
PeterPrism said:
PeterPrism wrote:
PeterPrism said:
Al Valentino wrote:

It depends. For landscape work I start with Provia for the widest DR and most natural colors. For walking around New York City I can punch it with Astia. For flowers I found that Velvia can be wonderful and leave me little is any post work.
Click to expand...
I Agree 100% (only difference: I walk around Rome & Florence because i'm Italian)
Click to expand...
would love to trade places for a while. i have the name, and the blood on both sides but my parents never taught me to soeak Italian but they both did, my mother even lived in Sicily for a few years as a child.
 
I've basically settled on ProNeg Hi in my X-E1 for the time being.

My other settings are color=+1, sharpness=-1, noise suppression=-2, highlights=-1, shadows=-1. Since my preference is to sharpen in post, I've reduced in-camera sharpening.

I've noticed that the exposure metering makes a big difference, so I use spot metering until the EVF looks right, then I shoot. This seems to reduce problems from blown highlights.

With my other cameras I used to shoot raw and post process all my photos, but JPGs in the Fujis are so good I've been able to save myself a lot of work these days.
 
It strikes me that a film mode bracketing feature would be popular ? You could then review the choices & delete those unwanted pics.
 
Keit ll said:
Keit ll wrote:

It strikes me that a film mode bracketing feature would be popular ? You could then review the choices & delete those unwanted pics.

--
Keith C
Click to expand...
i did that a lot during my first few months of using my camera. I really helped me to learn what worked best under various conditions. Over time i settled on which modes are best for this or that and when. I doubt I just go with Provia which is always best for wide dynamic range. These days I keep my F button set to Film modes. Tis lets me hold it down and scroll through the various looks to see what might be best - it is especially good for checking out the B&W filter modes.

when in doubt it can be best to shoot Raw + Jpeg Fine so you can later go back and change the film mode, and make any fine adjustments like shadow settings, in the camera.

It really is nice to have options to set before you shoot so later the post work will be minimal. Didn't have that with my Nikon, and of course he fuji jpegs are so good that is all I shoot 95% of the time.
 
Tom Schum said:
Tom Schum wrote:

I've basically settled on ProNeg Hi in my X-E1 for the time being.

My other settings are color=+1, sharpness=-1, noise suppression=-2, highlights=-1, shadows=-1. Since my preference is to sharpen in post, I've reduced in-camera sharpening.

I've noticed that the exposure metering makes a big difference, so I use spot metering until the EVF looks right, then I shoot. This seems to reduce problems from blown highlights.

With my other cameras I used to shoot raw and post process all my photos, but JPGs in the Fujis are so good I've been able to save myself a lot of work these days.

--
Tom Schum
Click to expand...
I'm using nearly the exact same settings on the x100s. Only difference is I use sharpness +1. Going to try your spot metering suggestion.
 
Ben Herrmann said:
Ben Herrmann wrote:

Hello all:

(...)

I guess what I'm getting at here is, "which is the best film setting" for accurate color - nothing that has over contrasts or punchy colors. So that's why I'm asking, "which color settings do you use - if you use them at all, and why?

Thanks for your indulgence of my question here.
Click to expand...
 
fdi_bcn said:
fdi_bcn wrote:
fdi_bcn said:
Ben Herrmann wrote:

Hello all:

(...)

I guess what I'm getting at here is, "which is the best film setting" for accurate color - nothing that has over contrasts or punchy colors. So that's why I'm asking, "which color settings do you use - if you use them at all, and why?

Thanks for your indulgence of my question here.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
General-purpose Colour ) Film Simulation S, Highlight Tone 0, Shadow Tone -1, Color 0, Sharpness 0, Noise Reduction -1


"Velvia" Colour ) Film Simulation V, Highlight Tone 0, Shadow Tone -1, Color 0, Sharpness 0, Noise Reduction -1


Low-contrast Colour ) Film Simulation STD, Highlight Tone 0, Shadow Tone -1, Color +1, Sharpness 0, Noise Reduction -1


High-contrast Black and White ) Film Simulation B , Highlight Tone +2, Shadow Tone +2, Color 0, Sharpness 0, Noise Reduction -2



Marco
 
you've got to keep in mind that transitioning to Fuji products may seem a bit unusual at first, but then you'll get the hang of it. I still am a very active participant in the micro 4/3 camp, shooting with the likes of the E-M5, E-PL5, GF1, GX1, and G5 (love 'em all). But I must say that once I acclimated myself to the X-E1, it's a no-brainer of a winner. I can appreciate a variety of superb camera systems from different brands as each one brings something to the table.

Since you're accustomed to the E-P2 (which I had for a long time), I know what you mean about being accustomed to the Olympus color tonality. But the Fuji colors, albeit slight different, are superb also. I suspect that you've not acclimated yourself (as of yet) to the Fuji menu system, which can seem daunting at first.

I, personally do not like the Velvia option (subjective) because of the intensity of the colors and the contrasts - but again, that's just subjective. I like the Provia Option. You've got to play with the camera and eventually you will find a balance of color settings you like the most. Of course, I shoot in RAW only - although the JPG's are superb. I just find more headroom and information is available in the RAW files.

So don't let it get you down here. Yes, whenever you're accustomed to one particular brand, and then you add on (or move on to) another brand, many times your preferences and expectations may be tested...until you've adjusted yourself to the settings regimen of that particular camera.

--
Have a great one....
Bernd (Ben) W. Herrmann
North Carolina, USA
link
 
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