Do I have a noise problem with my NEX-6

Yes Mel, camera is fine, jpegs are clean. Post-Processed RAW is the reason. Either your post processing flow routine is oversharpening and thus introducing grain and noise or something else - sorry I'm not that good in PS or LR - too many settings to fiddle around like radius, mask, detail e.t.c. - I haven't got time to learn all that yet, but the problem is there, not in camera.

However, I know for sure that from RAW it is possible to make a better final image than OOC JPEG. One more thing is that you use different lenses and I'm not sure if LR or PS has all lens profiles for them?

Thanks for sharing your issue - it helps us to better understand it too.
 
Mel Snyder wrote:

Pete Peterson, whose opinions I respect, has commented on my NEX-6 that he thinks I have a noise issue. That bothers me. He may be right, because I tend to oversharpen till grain appears, a holdover from my film enlarging days.

I've uploaded some images for his analysis in another thread, but Pete is in the UK, so it's 1AM there. But thought perhaps others could see what they see.

[ATTACH alt="A shot with my 85mm f1.2L, probably f5.6-8. Imported from RAW into Camera Raw, "auto" exposure clicked because I tend to underexpose to bring out sky (holdover from color film days). See noise?"]240583[/ATTACH]
A shot with my 85mm f1.2L, probably f5.6-8. Imported from RAW into Camera Raw, "auto" exposure clicked because I tend to underexpose to bring out sky (holdover from color film days). See noise?

Shot through a plate glass window with my Canon 24mm f2, probably f5.6-f8. Imported from RAW into Camera RAW and then converted (as above, forgot to mention) in Photoshop Elements 11, no adjustment
Shot through a plate glass window with my Canon 24mm f2, probably f5.6-f8. Imported from RAW into Camera RAW and then converted (as above, forgot to mention) in Photoshop Elements 11, no adjustment

Shot with the 16-50PZ, as the EXIF shows. Again, RAW, opened in Camera RAW, converted in PS Elements 11 with no adjustment
Shot with the 16-50PZ, as the EXIF shows. Again, RAW, opened in Camera RAW, converted in PS Elements 11 with no adjustment

Anyone see noise issues?

Thanks,

Mel
OMG, OMG shot ISO 100 and your are talking about noise.

I shoot my 5n at ISO 800 and don't notice anything ... are we being way too critical !



wll
 
it's too much noise for iso100 daylight shot...it looks like iso800 daylight shots from my 5N....there's definitely something wrong with these photos.
 
You know, daylight has nothing to do with anything. There are still dark areas in daylight shots. You can end up with DR in daylight shots of 10-11 stops. IMO, the 5 is noisier than the 6, and both are clearly less noisy than the 7. All you have to do is use the comparison mechanism on this site to see that. From what I can see, his blue sky shots are no noisier than a similar blue subjects in the studio test shots.
 
Mel Snyder wrote:

Pete Peterson, whose opinions I respect, has commented on my NEX-6 that he thinks I have a noise issue. That bothers me. He may be right, because I tend to oversharpen till grain appears, a holdover from my film enlarging days.

I've uploaded some images for his analysis in another thread, but Pete is in the UK, so it's 1AM there. But thought perhaps others could see what they see.

[ATTACH alt="A shot with my 85mm f1.2L, probably f5.6-8. Imported from RAW into Camera Raw, "auto" exposure clicked because I tend to underexpose to bring out sky (holdover from color film days). See noise?"]240583[/ATTACH]
A shot with my 85mm f1.2L, probably f5.6-8. Imported from RAW into Camera Raw, "auto" exposure clicked because I tend to underexpose to bring out sky (holdover from color film days). See noise?

Shot through a plate glass window with my Canon 24mm f2, probably f5.6-f8. Imported from RAW into Camera RAW and then converted (as above, forgot to mention) in Photoshop Elements 11, no adjustment
Shot through a plate glass window with my Canon 24mm f2, probably f5.6-f8. Imported from RAW into Camera RAW and then converted (as above, forgot to mention) in Photoshop Elements 11, no adjustment

Shot with the 16-50PZ, as the EXIF shows. Again, RAW, opened in Camera RAW, converted in PS Elements 11 with no adjustment
Shot with the 16-50PZ, as the EXIF shows. Again, RAW, opened in Camera RAW, converted in PS Elements 11 with no adjustment

Anyone see noise issues?
I'm quite far from PP expert but in my experience with my Nex-6 if one "just converts" the RAW to jpg without any NR the resulting jpg will always have more noise than OOC jpg as the jpg engine in the camera is always gonna do some default NR; NR is definately needed in PP workflow. I use Lightroom 4.4 for RAW to jpg conversion and with its noise reduction + nicely visualized masked sharpening I'm getting better jpgs than I get OOC; less noise + sharper/more detail.

As your posts do not describe your PP workflow 100% accurately I'd say there still might be room in your PP process for some improvement.
 
Mel Snyder wrote:

Thanks, Henry...

Then I may have a problem with the camera. There is no sharpening whatsoever on these images - in fact. no processing whatsoever. I just opened them with Camera Raw and converted them to jpegs in PS Elements 11. There are no effects whatsoever. I moved no sliders in either Camera Raw or PSE 11.

I know they could use sharpening, but I thought that might explain the noise. If there is noise in the images here, I suspect it's in the camera. I purchased it from B&H in February, with an extended warranty, so I guess I could explore replacement options,

I don't use Lightroom (although I could download the new beta, if necessary).

I am puzzled.

Mel
blue_skies wrote:
Mel Snyder wrote:

Pete Peterson, whose opinions I respect, has commented on my NEX-6 that he thinks I have a noise issue. That bothers me. He may be right, because I tend to oversharpen till grain appears, a holdover from my film enlarging days.
By oversharpening until noise appears, you make noise very visible. You may also get JPG pixelation problems if you zoom in, or try to retarget the resolution.
Anyone see noise issues?
Yes, your images show 'color' noise, but lack 'sharpness' details (viewing at 100%). For ISO 100 shots, the 'shadow' areas appear rather noisy.

Start with the RAW file, or the 'neutral' OOC JPG file.

If you are using LR, try the 'clarity' slider - it kind of performs the same trick.

Otherwise, go to your sharpness and noise-control section, and increase the sharpness, but not the noise (keep it down, low detail). Do not add noise-control (it will wash out details).

Then go back to brightness and contrast, and add both to the image, then pull up the shadows afterwards (LR has three sliders for this).

Your images look as if they could receive added contrast, added sharpness, without the noise-pixelation effects that they have now.

It is hard to undo the effect, once in JPG. You'd have to post the OOC JPG to let us/others show you what the result would look like.
Thanks,

Mel
--
Cheers,
Henry
Hi Mel,

Your pictures in this thread don't exhibit the extent of the problem I saw in the flower shots you posted in my thread but, I can see noise/grain in the city scape shots plus chromatic aberrations along the length of some of the buildings, though that could be due to the lens.

NEX-6           ISO 800
NEX-6 ISO 800

This one was shot in a dark setting at 800 ISO, some noise shows up in the dark blue wall above the bananas. This is an OOC JPG.

I think members here will get a better idea of what is going on if you also post the flower pictures to this thread with an explanation of, if or how you PP them.

Mel, I think the best way to find out if there is a problem with the camera itself is to shoot JPG and RAW and compare. If the camera can take out the noise then at least you know its the PP that is at fault.
 
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RESOLVED!

Henry ("blue sky") nailed it.

This is the image that Pete Peterson originally noted the noise. It is the RAW image, post processed by importation into Camera Raw (with likely slider fiddling) and then into Photoshop Elements 11, where it was adjusted for color temperature. lightened and sharpened
This is the image that Pete Peterson originally noted the noise. It is the RAW image, post processed by importation into Camera Raw (with likely slider fiddling) and then into Photoshop Elements 11, where it was adjusted for color temperature. lightened and sharpened

This is the fine JPEG of the same image, no post processing, just as set by the camera with the lowest possible adjustment. I normally have the lowest possible sharpening and color adjustment possible with a camera because prefer to do it all in post processing. The key that Henry picked out is to look at the deer in the background, just above the subject's hairline. It is noise free, as opposed to the deer in the post-processed image above.
This is the fine JPEG of the same image, no post processing, just as set by the camera with the lowest possible adjustment. I normally have the lowest possible sharpening and color adjustment possible with a camera because prefer to do it all in post processing. The key that Henry picked out is to look at the deer in the background, just above the subject's hairline. It is noise free, as opposed to the deer in the post-processed image above.

This is the RAW image imported straight into Photoshop Elements 11 with no sliders adjusted in either Camera Raw or PS Elements 11. It is noisier than the straight out of camera (OOC?) image.
This is the RAW image imported straight into Photoshop Elements 11 with no sliders adjusted in either Camera Raw or PS Elements 11. It is noisier than the straight out of camera (OOC?) image.

Conclusions:

1.My post-processing software, left to its own devices or adjusted as I am accustomed to doing, injects noise into my images. That explains the common issue in all my converted images. After the first day I got the NEX-6 (when this image was made), I have been shooting RAW.

2. I have been shooting only RAW. In fact, ever since my D70 images 9 years ago, I have been processing only RAW images, and when I got my D300 in 2008, I stopped shooting jpegs at all, and shot only RAW. I am shaking my head at the hundreds of thousands of images I shot over that time that could have been better if I'd also shot jpeg. My only saving grace might have been I was using Paintshop Pro on the Windows platform until I went Mac in early 2011.

In order to properly engage in the self-flagellation we photographers enjoy as much as the zealots who beat themselves with chains, I will go back to the last time I shot RAW and jpeg and inflict pain in response to what I am likely to find.

3. Just as cautious parents save the stem-cell-rich cord blood of healthy newborns, in the event that someday they develop a rare disease curable with it, I will now begin shooting both RAW and fine jpeg, and begin the quest for acceptable (in my hands) post processing program(s) that doesn't inject noise.

There's a spaghetti sauce commercial running where the woman doing a taste test discovers that she likes the sponsoring sauce better than her "favorite" brand - and she flashes back thing she did in the past, muttering "I wonder what OTHER bad choices I made!"

That's how this exercise has been for me. Thank you all, but especially (small) Lebowski(?), Henry (bluesky), and especially Pete Peterson for his persistence that drove me to performing Henry's comparison test.

Mel Snyder

PS: It suddenly occurred to me that perhaps Camera Raw is the culprit - here is the RAW image imported into PSE11 via DNG converter:

Is it any different?
Is it any different?

Finally, the RAW image opened and saved as a jpeg in ACDSee:

ACDSee saves a much bigger jpeg (3.7mb) so it might not be comparable
ACDSee saves a much bigger jpeg (3.7mb) so it might not be comparable
 
Whatever the issue, no postprocessing program I own can make as noise-free images as the OOC jpeg.

Henry's "deer" doesn't lie"

Mel Snyder wrote:

RESOLVED!

Henry ("blue sky") nailed it.

This is the image that Pete Peterson originally noted the noise. It is the RAW image, post processed by importation into Camera Raw (with likely slider fiddling) and then into Photoshop Elements 11, where it was adjusted for color temperature. lightened and sharpened
This is the image that Pete Peterson originally noted the noise. It is the RAW image, post processed by importation into Camera Raw (with likely slider fiddling) and then into Photoshop Elements 11, where it was adjusted for color temperature. lightened and sharpened

This is the fine JPEG of the same image, no post processing, just as set by the camera with the lowest possible adjustment. I normally have the lowest possible sharpening and color adjustment possible with a camera because prefer to do it all in post processing. The key that Henry picked out is to look at the deer in the background, just above the subject's hairline. It is noise free, as opposed to the deer in the post-processed image above.
This is the fine JPEG of the same image, no post processing, just as set by the camera with the lowest possible adjustment. I normally have the lowest possible sharpening and color adjustment possible with a camera because prefer to do it all in post processing. The key that Henry picked out is to look at the deer in the background, just above the subject's hairline. It is noise free, as opposed to the deer in the post-processed image above.

This is the RAW image imported straight into Photoshop Elements 11 with no sliders adjusted in either Camera Raw or PS Elements 11. It is noisier than the straight out of camera (OOC?) image.
This is the RAW image imported straight into Photoshop Elements 11 with no sliders adjusted in either Camera Raw or PS Elements 11. It is noisier than the straight out of camera (OOC?) image.

Conclusions:

1.My post-processing software, left to its own devices or adjusted as I am accustomed to doing, injects noise into my images. That explains the common issue in all my converted images. After the first day I got the NEX-6 (when this image was made), I have been shooting RAW.

2. I have been shooting only RAW. In fact, ever since my D70 images 9 years ago, I have been processing only RAW images, and when I got my D300 in 2008, I stopped shooting jpegs at all, and shot only RAW. I am shaking my head at the hundreds of thousands of images I shot over that time that could have been better if I'd also shot jpeg. My only saving grace might have been I was using Paintshop Pro on the Windows platform until I went Mac in early 2011.

In order to properly engage in the self-flagellation we photographers enjoy as much as the zealots who beat themselves with chains, I will go back to the last time I shot RAW and jpeg and inflict pain in response to what I am likely to find.

3. Just as cautious parents save the stem-cell-rich cord blood of healthy newborns, in the event that someday they develop a rare disease curable with it, I will now begin shooting both RAW and fine jpeg, and begin the quest for acceptable (in my hands) post processing program(s) that doesn't inject noise.

There's a spaghetti sauce commercial running where the woman doing a taste test discovers that she likes the sponsoring sauce better than her "favorite" brand - and she flashes back thing she did in the past, muttering "I wonder what OTHER bad choices I made!"

That's how this exercise has been for me. Thank you all, but especially (small) Lebowski(?), Henry (bluesky), and especially Pete Peterson for his persistence that drove me to performing Henry's comparison test.

Mel Snyder

PS: It suddenly occurred to me that perhaps Camera Raw is the culprit - here is the RAW image imported into PSE11 via DNG converter:

Is it any different?
Is it any different?

Finally, the RAW image opened and saved as a jpeg in ACDSee:

ACDSee saves a much bigger jpeg (3.7mb) so it might not be comparable
ACDSee saves a much bigger jpeg (3.7mb) so it might not be comparable
 
I don't see any noise in any of the images, apart from the one that was a little over processed in LR (?) ; the 2nd one of the chap holding the picture .

It's a very good sensor, but still 'only' APS-C size, so when you brighten the shadows and sharpen too much it will get ugly fast . FYI, LR and ACR apply default sharpening, unless you turn it off .

As for the OOC jpgs, the Nex is pretty heavy handed re. sharpening and noise reduction; for quality, a good Raw developer is the way to go .

You will see more noise, CA, distortion etc. - because it actually is there - but also all the detail that is in the file . If you know what you are doing, you can still get rid of the possible IQ issues, but it will be your choice, and you can always go back and readjust . OOC jpgs are ruined forever .
 
Mel Snyder wrote:

Whatever the issue, no postprocessing program I own can make as noise-free images as the OOC jpeg.

Henry's "deer" doesn't lie"
Every decent Raw converter can do better than any in-camera jpg engine , with noise or anything else .

The catch is, post processing is depending on the skills of the user .
 
franzel wrote:

I don't see any noise in any of the images, apart from the one that was a little over processed in LR (?) ; the 2nd one of the chap holding the picture .

It's a very good sensor, but still 'only' APS-C size, so when you brighten the shadows and sharpen too much it will get ugly fast . FYI, LR and ACR apply default sharpening, unless you turn it off .

As for the OOC jpgs, the Nex is pretty heavy handed re. sharpening and noise reduction; for quality, a good Raw developer is the way to go .

You will see more noise, CA, distortion etc. - because it actually is there - but also all the detail that is in the file . If you know what you are doing, you can still get rid of the possible IQ issues, but it will be your choice, and you can always go back and readjust . OOC jpgs are ruined forever .
All excellent points. The OOC jpegs are better than my PP RAW, but now at least I have a target to shoot at. From here on, I am shooting both RAW and fine jpeg. Will increase the number of SD cards I need to carry by a third, and explode the number of backup hard drives I need (I already have five 1 and 2TB drives, which I store in a fireproof safe whenever I leave overnight; I am about to purchase a two 3TB for the local bank's safe deposit box).

My father was a prolific industrial photographer for Bethlehem Steel and family recorder since the late 1930s. When he died suddenly in 2005, I found mountains of prints and probably 10-15 storage boxes of 35mm and 6x6 transparencies. My kids will have a more compact and searchable legacy.
 
Mel Snyder wrote:
blue_skies wrote:

Glad you figured it out.

The JPG engine is underrated, mostly because it is setup to be so neutral, whereas competition tends to be more vivid.
And, of course, you can select "Vivid" mode and be right there with them. Some of us use Vivid with saturation set to -1. This gives it a slight added "punch" without being overbearing.
Neutral, btw, is great for post-edit - just load the JPG in your editor (as opposed to the RAW) - all you have to do then is add sharpening, contrast and vividness.

For those that use the OOC JPG, it is best to boost sharpening and contrast, and vividness, in the camera, with the connotation that those JPG's should not be further processed (or they will start to show artifacts - you cannot re-sharpen a JPG succesfully).

The RAW data itself is very noisy and soft - as sensor image - and in post-processing you need to find that balance point between sharpening and noise reduction (they fight against each other), both in the B+W (contrast) and color (noise) planes.
With my RAW converter, I use less B&W NR, and more color NR.
I have always used the JPG as a baseline for RAW processing - it prevents me from doing something wrong. I noticed that it is easy to do worse than the JPG engine, and that it can be sometimes hard to match the JPG (e.g. low light shots).

But once you dial in the RAW workflow, you can match, and surpass the JPG quality.

I find it easiest to shoot neutral OOC JPG, and post process the JPG file, rather than the RAW file. This flow also pulls in the lens-corrections for free.
I prefer the way my RAW processor handles the noise reduction and the "grain".
Mel Snyder wrote:

DAMN!

So the straight jpeg is best! Here I thought I was doing better with shooting RAW, but you are right, the PP of any kind is injecting noise.

As soon as I looked at the jpeg in preview on my Mac and Dell U2410 calibrated monitor, it hit me. The skin on his nose is less noisy, too.

Is it the noise suppression in the camera, or is it the noise injection in Elements 11?

I may have to go to Lightroom. For sure, I am shooting RAW/JPEG from here on, until I resolve this.

Thanks to all!!!

Mel
 
franzel wrote:
Mel Snyder wrote:

Whatever the issue, no postprocessing program I own can make as noise-free images as the OOC jpeg.

Henry's "deer" doesn't lie"
Every decent Raw converter can do better than any in-camera jpg engine , with noise or anything else .

The catch is, post processing is depending on the skills of the user .
Agreed. Clearly, there is skill needed, because the RAW converters here were used without adjustment - just straight conversion.

I plan to try the new beta Lightroom 5 and ACDSee. The latter must have been designed by the brother of a German hi-fi receiver engineer - the latter never put 5 knobs/controls where they can rationalize 22. Have you seen ACDSee? It is amazing, but work flow would slow to crawl with it; pages of sliders and options, and S-L-O-W conversion to jpegs.
 
GaryW wrote:
Mel Snyder wrote:
blue_skies wrote:

Glad you figured it out.

The JPG engine is underrated, mostly because it is setup to be so neutral, whereas competition tends to be more vivid.
And, of course, you can select "Vivid" mode and be right there with them. Some of us use Vivid with saturation set to -1. This gives it a slight added "punch" without being overbearing.
Neutral, btw, is great for post-edit - just load the JPG in your editor (as opposed to the RAW) - all you have to do then is add sharpening, contrast and vividness.

For those that use the OOC JPG, it is best to boost sharpening and contrast, and vividness, in the camera, with the connotation that those JPG's should not be further processed (or they will start to show artifacts - you cannot re-sharpen a JPG succesfully).

The RAW data itself is very noisy and soft - as sensor image - and in post-processing you need to find that balance point between sharpening and noise reduction (they fight against each other), both in the B+W (contrast) and color (noise) planes.
With my RAW converter, I use less B&W NR, and more color NR.
I have always used the JPG as a baseline for RAW processing - it prevents me from doing something wrong. I noticed that it is easy to do worse than the JPG engine, and that it can be sometimes hard to match the JPG (e.g. low light shots).

But once you dial in the RAW workflow, you can match, and surpass the JPG quality.

I find it easiest to shoot neutral OOC JPG, and post process the JPG file, rather than the RAW file. This flow also pulls in the lens-corrections for free.
I prefer the way my RAW processor handles the noise reduction and the "grain".
Mel Snyder wrote:

DAMN!

So the straight jpeg is best! Here I thought I was doing better with shooting RAW, but you are right, the PP of any kind is injecting noise.

As soon as I looked at the jpeg in preview on my Mac and Dell U2410 calibrated monitor, it hit me. The skin on his nose is less noisy, too.

Is it the noise suppression in the camera, or is it the noise injection in Elements 11?

I may have to go to Lightroom. For sure, I am shooting RAW/JPEG from here on, until I resolve this.

Thanks to all!!!

Mel
 
Mel Snyder wrote:
franzel wrote:

I don't see any noise in any of the images, apart from the one that was a little over processed in LR (?) ; the 2nd one of the chap holding the picture .

It's a very good sensor, but still 'only' APS-C size, so when you brighten the shadows and sharpen too much it will get ugly fast . FYI, LR and ACR apply default sharpening, unless you turn it off .

As for the OOC jpgs, the Nex is pretty heavy handed re. sharpening and noise reduction; for quality, a good Raw developer is the way to go .

You will see more noise, CA, distortion etc. - because it actually is there - but also all the detail that is in the file . If you know what you are doing, you can still get rid of the possible IQ issues, but it will be your choice, and you can always go back and readjust . OOC jpgs are ruined forever .
All excellent points. The OOC jpegs are better than my PP RAW, but now at least I have a target to shoot at. From here on, I am shooting both RAW and fine jpeg. Will increase the number of SD cards I need to carry by a third, and explode the number of backup hard drives I need (I already have five 1 and 2TB drives, which I store in a fireproof safe whenever I leave overnight; I am about to purchase a two 3TB for the local bank's safe deposit box).

My father was a prolific industrial photographer for Bethlehem Steel and family recorder since the late 1930s. When he died suddenly in 2005, I found mountains of prints and probably 10-15 storage boxes of 35mm and 6x6 transparencies. My kids will have a more compact and searchable legacy.
That is an amazing find from a great period. You should digitize the good ones them and show us a few!
 
You can not inject noise or reduce noise after the shutter closes.

All you can do is filter the data to produce an aesthetic result that looks best to you (and others).

Any perceptual improvement in pixels with low S/N must decrease the S/N of adjacent pixels with higher S/N. The total information content of the image remains constant. Of course a skillful choice of noise filtering parameters results in a compromise that results in an aesthetically superior image. The common use of the term noise reduction is unfortunate because it implies you can do the impossible... create information (shadow region signal) that never existed.

Intentional under exposure of the sensor always results in shadow regions with a lower than necessary S/N. Maximizing sensor exposure maximizes the shadow region S/N. As shadow region S/N decreases, the importance of optimal post-processing parameter selection increases.
 
Mel Snyder wrote:

Whatever the issue, no postprocessing program I own can make as noise-free images as the OOC jpeg.
Hi Mel,

RAW contains all the information required to produce a nice image, like making a good meal - you must attend to each different aspect carefully to extract the best results, not leave settings "flat" (= boiled meat & vegetables!). Doing all this carefully usually gets better results than the camera's one size fits all JPG processing.

RAW is inherently noisy - this is I think caused by the randomness of light photons, but whatever - your post-processing must deal with the noise, and balance its reduction against ultimate sharpness. Aggressive noise reduction (NR) will also kill fine detail, but leaving fine detail alone may leave noise intact.

This isn't as delicate or difficult an operation as it sounds. Assuming a well-exposed base ISO image, in Adobe Camera Raw I start with Luminance (salt & pepper grain) NR at 0 if possible, and turn Chroma/colour (red/blue dots) NR as low as I can get away with, maybe 10-15, judging by viewing the image at 100%. Colour, exposure, contrast etc are best judged looking at the whole image. I leave sharpening at zero, it will be a soft, but I sharpen later in Photoshop after re-sizing. You can of course do it all in one program like LightRoom etc.

Sharpening is another problem - if you sharpen an entire image with shallow depth of field, the noise in the out of focus areas gets horribly sharpened just like your fine detail, so you must use unsharp mask with the threshold up just enough for it to ignore noise but catch fine detail - try radius 0.3, amount x 350, threshold 8. Or else use a brush in LR etc to selectively sharpnen.

My routine is white balance > maximise levels & exposure > contrast & saturation > NR > export to Photoshop for re-sizing > final levels/contrast sanity check > finally sharpening - very carefully at 100% view. Sometimes I duplicate the layer, sharpen this without a threshold, mask it off and carefully un-mask (white brush) the in-focus (sharp) areas only, maybe dropping the duplicate's opacity a little if I've over-sharpened.

After initially struggling with it, and tweaking JPGs for a long time, I now pp a RAW file in a few minutes. Gratuitous flower shot to remind us why we do all this - Rokkor 50/1.4 on NEX-F3, with careful selective sharpening due to shallow DoF:

8681537630_99931bf4cb_h.jpg


Regards,
Alan
http://www.flickr.com/photos/59079068@N02/
 
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Mel, if I might jump in here, remember that PS Elements 11 does not fully support 16 bit data words internally like Lightroom, Photoshop, Capture 1, or all the other "pro" programs do. This means you are not able to get the fine level of control in PSE 11 that you can in the other programs, and this may have something to do with your RAW->JPG conversions. In fact, your camera may be rendering its JPGs with a wider data word than PSE 11 is. This may be another reason why the OOC JPGs look so good.

You're working with a camera that writes 14 bit RAW files. PSE11 is throwing away a lot of that data as it edits. PSE11 doesn't seem like a good fit for your workflow.

Note that this is different from the 16/32/64 bit OS versions of the program.
 
Mel Snyder wrote:
GaryW wrote:
I prefer the way my RAW processor handles the noise reduction and the "grain".

What is your "RAW processor"?
DxO, although, I think some competitors may be similar in that regard. Some programs (Sony's?) seem to make more splotchy result. It's hard to describe. The finer-grain is much more appealing, IMO. Some of the RAW converters are free, and of course there's the one from Sony, and some of the commercial programs have a free trial period, so you can take something with a bit of noise (I'd use something with ISO 1600 or higher) and run it through all of them and see how they handle it. I found that NR has to be used sparingly, else it just washes out too much detail; but the dirty truth is that our eyes see right through noise, so leave some in there! The main thing I like about DxO is that it's fairly automatic, and I don't have to spend a lot of time to get good results.

But I think the Nex-6 JPEGs look better than my Nex-5 ones; not quite as splotchy or something. If I were sufficiently bored, I suppose I could compose a test, but for now, I think I'll just assume that the Nex-6 is an improvement. :-) So, beating the JPEG output is my goal, but is not as simple as you'd think. I often use RAW+JPEG, and if the JPEG is good enough, I might just run with it. I don't bother to convert everything, just things that seem more special, I guess, or need more attention (blown highlights, etc.).
 
Alan:

I have copied your message into Word for review as I next attempt PP. It is GREAT guidance!

Thanks so much!

FYI, I had dinner this evening with my son, who's a creative developer for a digital agency in Providence, and a super photographer with a degree in visual communication. He asked for a Fuji X100 for his graduation present last June, and after struggling with Lightroom and Photoshop to match the jpegs from that great camera, he decided not to struggle, and claims - as did Henry - that modern in-camera processing (especially for fixed-lens cameras) is so good that he's given up on RAW, and shoots RAW/jpg and uses the jpeg, except to be there in case he needs the RAW for rescuing an image.

Thanks again,

Mel
 

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