The Moon Finally Shot! :) [PICS]

toupsie

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Thanks for the suggestions folks. I finally got a picture of the moon. It was a hazy, cloudy night but I was able to get some decent shots of the moon with my 75-300mm USM.

1/60 100% Crop from RAW -> 60% compressed JPG



1/90 100% Crop from RAW -> 60% compressed JPG



--
Cheers,
Robert
10D Photos: http://homepage.mac.com/toupsie/Photography/

 
. . . and I'm pretty sure no amount of sharpening will help these. I understand they're quite tricky to take due to an unpercepitible motion, that's also why motion tracking telescope mounts are important. I wonder if tracking AF works for these kinda shots?
Thanks for the suggestions folks. I finally got a picture of the
moon. It was a hazy, cloudy night but I was able to get some decent
shots of the moon with my 75-300mm USM.
--
Cheers,
Robert
10D Photos: http://homepage.mac.com/toupsie/Photography/

 
I understand they're quite tricky to take due to an unpercepitible
motion, that's also why motion tracking telescope mounts are
important.
Absolutely not!! 1/90 of a second of an object that moving from horizon to horizon in about 11 hours is plenty fast enough.

The shot is OOF more than likely due to haze. He posted others (from the next night) and my guess was that it was a betting "seeing" night. Less haze, clouds, gunk in the air.

--
Pleased 10D owner
'Never give up hope, Quantum Tunneling exists!'
 
Make up your mind . . . maybe, then absolutely not, then OOF due to haze? If you are looking at the same image that I am then these two are beyond a shadow of a doubt - OOF. If these can be viewed under a grain focuser then you'll see that its OOF, if it were magnified in PS 400% you'll see it's OOF. I even turned it upside down and it's still - OOF. The reason why can obviously vary . . . but it is still OOF . . .
Absolutely not!! 1/90 of a second of an object that moving from
horizon to horizon in about 11 hours is plenty fast enough.

The shot is OOF more than likely due to haze. He posted others
(from the next night) and my guess was that it was a betting
"seeing" night. Less haze, clouds, gunk in the air.

--
Pleased 10D owner
'Never give up hope, Quantum Tunneling exists!'
I'm glad that you are a "Pleased 10D owner" as I can only imagine if you were not it would be a bummer . . . Me, I'm just a pleased photographer.
 
The first looks like it's as good as it gets with what appears to be good exposure. The second looks like it may have blown highlights but 3rd and 4th look OOF again. But hey, how many shots of the moon taken at seemingly same angle do you need. If these are 100% crops then these look good enough for web posts.
Tonight:
1/350 F9.6 200ISO 100% Crop from Large JPG

1/350 F8 400ISO 100% Crop from Large JPG

Last Night:
1/60 100% Crop from RAW -> 60% compressed JPG

1/90 100% Crop from RAW -> 60% compressed JPG
--
Cheers,
Robert
10D Photos: http://homepage.mac.com/toupsie/Photography/

 
I used "daylight" white balance, as someone suggested on another thread, but it turned out yellowish. What white balance should I use instead?

1/1000s f/4.0 ISO400 at 200mm with EOS-10D



It's in my "Track Races" gallery because I took it between races at the Hellyer Park Velodrome.

--Garrett
http://www.pbase.com/garrettlau
 
I just realized that the lights from the velodrome might have caused the yellowish cast. Is that possible?

--Garrett
I used "daylight" white balance, as someone suggested on another
thread, but it turned out yellowish. What white balance should I
use instead?

1/1000s f/4.0 ISO400 at 200mm with EOS-10D



It's in my "Track Races" gallery because I took it between races at
the Hellyer Park Velodrome.

--Garrett
http://www.pbase.com/garrettlau
 
Right now I have no long lenses. I compared my 100 2.8 macro to my 80-210 kit zoom and found the zoom to fair better. That extra 100mm you have seems to be a big help. And as someone else mentioned, sharpening didn't help me much.

Matt

100% crop at 200mm, ISO 100, 1/200sec, f/8, Daylight WB


Tonight:
1/350 F9.6 200ISO 100% Crop from Large JPG



1/350 F8 400ISO 100% Crop from Large JPG



Last Night:
1/60 100% Crop from RAW -> 60% compressed JPG



1/90 100% Crop from RAW -> 60% compressed JPG



--
Cheers,
Robert
10D Photos: http://homepage.mac.com/toupsie/Photography/

 
Hi guys:
Auto WB ISO 100 F7.1 S1/79



Don.
I used "daylight" white balance, as someone suggested on another
thread, but it turned out yellowish. What white balance should I
use instead?

1/1000s f/4.0 ISO400 at 200mm with EOS-10D



It's in my "Track Races" gallery because I took it between races at
the Hellyer Park Velodrome.

--Garrett
http://www.pbase.com/garrettlau
 
I took one last night using AWB and looked good, no yellowish cast. same lens as yours.
I used "daylight" white balance, as someone suggested on another
thread, but it turned out yellowish. What white balance should I
use instead?

1/1000s f/4.0 ISO400 at 200mm with EOS-10D
http://www.pbase.com/image/16700177/original.jpg

It's in my "Track Races" gallery because I took it between races at
the Hellyer Park Velodrome.

--Garrett
http://www.pbase.com/garrettlau
 
LesDMess--

My "absolutely not" is a response to your statement:
I understand they're quite tricky to take due to an unpercepitible
motion, that's also why motion tracking telescope mounts are
important.
and is included in my original post.

You don't need a tracking mount to shoot good moon shots. The shutter speed "is plenty fast enough" for the moon. AF tracking for the moon is also silly because your lens is at infinity anyway.

I agree the shot is OOF but due to haze and gunk. I am helping out Robert understand that sometimes the sharpest lens give crappy results when you shoot through miles of atmosphere.

There is nothing he, or any other photographer, can do about it short of commanding adaptic optics used by the top astro observatories in the world.

I have [and did] make up my mind.
Absolutely not!! 1/90 of a second of an object that moving from
horizon to horizon in about 11 hours is plenty fast enough.

The shot is OOF more than likely due to haze. He posted others
(from the next night) and my guess was that it was a betting
"seeing" night. Less haze, clouds, gunk in the air.

--
Pleased 10D owner
'Never give up hope, Quantum Tunneling exists!'
I'm glad that you are a "Pleased 10D owner" as I can only imagine
if you were not it would be a bummer . . . Me, I'm just a pleased
photographer.
--
Pleased 10D owner
'Never give up hope, Quantum Tunneling exists!'
 
Hi Owigawa,

I´m a very un-scientific astronomer, you can call me an astro observer, or an event astronomer, By 'chance', one of my digital cameras, the Nikon Coolpix 995, is excellent for macro photography and astro photography, because of it´s small and sharp nikkor optics. It fits perfectly in size to my Plössl wide ocular to my Focus Explorer scope.

You can get special t-mounts and adaptor rings which fits most telescope oculars for many cameras, including 35mm format. This will physically lock the camera to the telescope.

My astro shots are all hand-held. I use manual focus on the camera, and fire a series of shots with locked exposure (the coolpix has spot metering which helps measuring moon shots and planets).

This method has the backdraw of many wasted exposures, but what the heck. They are free, and I´m an amateur. I´m good with Photoshop, which helps.

You should really search the forum or google for astrophotographers, there are many skilled ones here and out there.

I offer you a measly few examples of my method, I don´t have a gallery with these, so I´ll post them here:

Moon occultates Saturn:



Venus:



Full moon (exaggerated):



Mathias
And some 1200mm through my telescope.



Mathias

--
CP995 Macro gallery:
http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/
Digital Deluxe Toolbox - Photoshop Actions for digital photographers:
http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/actions/
--
CP995 Macro gallery:
http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/
Digital Deluxe Toolbox - Photoshop Actions for digital photographers:
http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/actions/
 
I´m a very un-scientific astronomer, you can call me an astro
observer, or an event astronomer, By 'chance', one of my digital
cameras, the Nikon Coolpix 995, is excellent for macro photography
and astro photography, because of it´s small and sharp nikkor
optics. It fits perfectly in size to my Plössl wide ocular to my
Focus Explorer scope.

You can get special t-mounts and adaptor rings which fits most
telescope oculars for many cameras, including 35mm format. This
will physically lock the camera to the telescope.

My astro shots are all hand-held. I use manual focus on the camera,
and fire a series of shots with locked exposure (the coolpix has
spot metering which helps measuring moon shots and planets).

This method has the backdraw of many wasted exposures, but what the
heck. They are free, and I´m an amateur. I´m good with Photoshop,
which helps.

You should really search the forum or google for
astrophotographers, there are many skilled ones here and out there.

I offer you a measly few examples of my method, I don´t have a
gallery with these, so I´ll post them here:

Moon occultates Saturn:



Venus:



Full moon (exaggerated):



Mathias
And some 1200mm through my telescope.



Mathias

--
CP995 Macro gallery:
http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/
Digital Deluxe Toolbox - Photoshop Actions for digital photographers:
http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/actions/
--
CP995 Macro gallery:
http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/
Digital Deluxe Toolbox - Photoshop Actions for digital photographers:
http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/actions/
 

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