What shoot mode is good for nature/landscape?

LostMySelf

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I know how to use ISO/Shutter speed/Aperture but I am not good enough to know what settings to use and when, and I don't want to stand there for 30 minutes taking pictures with different settings. So my question would be what mode is good for nature/landscape? I haven't been out shooting yet with my new NEX-F3.
 
I don't want to stand there for 30 minutes taking pictures with different settings.
That's what photography IS! if you want to learn (virtually anything) you spend time doing it, trying variations and evaluating the results to see what you could do better next time.

Just having someone spoon feed you settings is cheating you of the pleasure of actively discovering and growing in the craft of photography.

It's better to learn to fish than to keep asking for others to provide for you.

That being said, we all need a starting point - try Landscape mode for landscape shots. It usually has an icon of a mountain on the mode dial.

--


Don't forget to have fun.
 
FrankieJ wrote:
I don't want to stand there for 30 minutes taking pictures with different settings.
That's what photography IS! if you want to learn (virtually anything) you spend time doing it, trying variations and evaluating the results to see what you could do better next time.

Just having someone spoon feed you settings is cheating you of the pleasure of actively discovering and growing in the craft of photography.

It's better to learn to fish than to keep asking for others to provide for you.

That being said, we all need a starting point - try Landscape mode for landscape shots. It usually has an icon of a mountain on the mode dial.

--

Don't forget to have fun.
Oh hey I didn't mean it like that. I love being outside and just take it slow but I feel like it's maybe better to learn from one of the modes first and look at pictures later on to figure out why for example shutter speed is set to a certain number.
 
LostMySelf wrote:
FrankieJ wrote:
I don't want to stand there for 30 minutes taking pictures with different settings.
That's what photography IS! if you want to learn (virtually anything) you spend time doing it, trying variations and evaluating the results to see what you could do better next time.

Just having someone spoon feed you settings is cheating you of the pleasure of actively discovering and growing in the craft of photography.

It's better to learn to fish than to keep asking for others to provide for you.

That being said, we all need a starting point - try Landscape mode for landscape shots. It usually has an icon of a mountain on the mode dial.

--

Don't forget to have fun.
Oh hey I didn't mean it like that. I love being outside and just take it slow but I feel like it's maybe better to learn from one of the modes first and look at pictures later on to figure out why for example shutter speed is set to a certain number.
A sound idea, again the landscape mode is located on the mode dial between portrait (face) and Close-up (flower). Also the user manual usually has a description of what each scene mode does, contrast, saturation, metering, etc.
 
FrankieJ wrote:
LostMySelf wrote:
FrankieJ wrote:
I don't want to stand there for 30 minutes taking pictures with different settings.
That's what photography IS! if you want to learn (virtually anything) you spend time doing it, trying variations and evaluating the results to see what you could do better next time.

Just having someone spoon feed you settings is cheating you of the pleasure of actively discovering and growing in the craft of photography.

It's better to learn to fish than to keep asking for others to provide for you.

That being said, we all need a starting point - try Landscape mode for landscape shots. It usually has an icon of a mountain on the mode dial.

--

Don't forget to have fun.
Oh hey I didn't mean it like that. I love being outside and just take it slow but I feel like it's maybe better to learn from one of the modes first and look at pictures later on to figure out why for example shutter speed is set to a certain number.
A sound idea, again the landscape mode is located on the mode dial between portrait (face) and Close-up (flower). Also the user manual usually has a description of what each scene mode does, contrast, saturation, metering, etc.
 
Manual mode is best. It really isn't that hard.

Tripod

Low ISO

small apperature

hands off shutter release





whats left? Exposure, shutter speed, focus point, composition. Within a month you'll be putting out better product than the "landscape" mode does.
 
LostMySelf wrote:

I know how to use ISO/Shutter speed/Aperture but I am not good enough to know what settings to use and when, and I don't want to stand there for 30 minutes taking pictures with different settings. So my question would be what mode is good for nature/landscape? I haven't been out shooting yet with my new NEX-F3.
Hello,

I am giving my view to your question based on the 'assumption' that you are interested in developing your photography skills. What I mean by this is - some people are more than happy for the camera to make their photo for them, and others wish to learn how they take control of the camera and the person makes the shot.

It is often best to come away from thinking of 'best modes' and look more towards every photo being a 'unique' image that requires to be assessed to allow for the best settings required for it. With a landscape it can be amazing how quickly light can change and require totally different settings.

It has been mentioned in a previous reply, but 'manual' settings usually give you a much greater flexibility to get the final result that you are hoping for, and landscapes tend to be a great subject for learning about them as they don't tend to run away :) Also, cameras these days tend to offer good 'pathways' to head towards manual - e.g. aperture mode still retains 'automatic settings' in other parameters, so can be less daunting than going into full manual. Even in full manual a lot of cameras still offer some indication that settings are way out by showing an exposure meter, etc in the finder or camera body.

When composing your landscape it is useful to decide if there are any particular 'features' that you wish to bring attention to as you may want to base your focus area around that area or plane. It may be that the whole landscape is the 'subject', so that would require a different approach and settings, with maximum depth of field being a main feature.

Other things to consider are: quality of light, position of shadows, etc. For example, a noon sun is going to create a very harsh light and with some landscapes it is more pleasing to shoot in B&W due to the high contrasts of such light. For shadows, our eye tends to prefer going from light to dark, so having strong shadows at the front of the image can give unpleasing results. However, these are certainly not 'rules' but I think it helps with the thinking that each photo is unique and requires and requires an approach that allows the final image to depict what it is you wish to depict.

With ISO, again look at it in terms of what you wish the final image to look like. In many situations you would want the 'optimal' ISO for the camera (this isn't always the lowest setting). However, you may wish to create a grainy and moody landscape, so you would use a higher ISO. Again, no right or wrong, and it all depends what you wish to achieve.

The things that I would consider for a landscape shot would be -

- what is the actual subject that I wish to depict?

- how do I wish to depict that subject? (moody, bright, etc)

- where do I need to stand to get the best perspective and lighting to achieve this?

- what lens do I need to use?

- what camera settings will allow me to get the results I wish?

I am not sure if I have answered your question, but as with many photography questions, there isn't an 'easy answer' due to a continually changing environment requiring different considerations.

Regards,

Gary
 
LostMySelf wrote:

I know how to use ISO/Shutter speed/Aperture but I am not good enough to know what settings to use and when, and I don't want to stand there for 30 minutes taking pictures with different settings. So my question would be what mode is good for nature/landscape? I haven't been out shooting yet with my new NEX-F3.
"P-rogram Mode" will do everything except set ISO and colour balance, and so "P-Mode" would not be wrong for landscapes.

But a good standard mode for everything, including landscapes, is "A-perture Mode." You set the Aperture, the camera does the shutter speed, and it does so in accordance with the luminosity of the subject, and the ISO you have set.

Hints for general use of "A-Mode"... NOT just landscapes:-

* For best image quality use the lowest ISO you can get away with in the light levels prevailing.

* Then set the aperture to two stops down from its maximum, and leave it there as your default aperture.

* Move AWAY from default aperture only to get more, or less, DoF as required.... or to admit more light in dim conditions and thereby shorten shutter speed without raising ISO more than necessary. Don't forget to return lens to default aperture afterwards.


Yup! That is basically the whole philosophy behind the selecting of camera settings appropriate for subjects that are not running around or jumping about.

Some students of mine have gone so far as to write/print the above on an index card and keep it with their camera kit... but it only has to be refered to three or four times to become second nature... (really)
 
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Barrie Davis wrote:
LostMySelf wrote:

I know how to use ISO/Shutter speed/Aperture but I am not good enough to know what settings to use and when, and I don't want to stand there for 30 minutes taking pictures with different settings. So my question would be what mode is good for nature/landscape? I haven't been out shooting yet with my new NEX-F3.
"P-rogram Mode" will do everything except set ISO and colour balance, and so "P-Mode" would not be wrong for landscapes.

But a good standard mode for everything, including landscapes, is "A-perture Mode." You set the Aperture, the camera does the shutter speed, and it does so in accordance with the luminosity of the subject, and the ISO you have set.

Hints for general use of "A-Mode"... NOT just landscapes:-

* For best image quality use the lowest ISO you can get away with in the light levels prevailing.
For best image quality, let in the most light you can without clipping highlights in which you wish to preserve detail, subject to using a shutter speed high enough to prevent motion blur and an aperture small enough to get desired DOF.

Once you've let in the most light possible, as above, consider whether you've approached clipping. If not, in some cameras increasing ISO from there will improve image quality compared to increasing brightness in post-processing, at least up to a point.

* Then set the aperture to two stops down from its maximum, and leave it there as your default aperture.
That's a very general rule of thumb. It works for many lenses, but the better course is to test which aperture results in maximum sharpness
* Move AWAY from default aperture only to get more, or less, DoF as required.... or to admit more light in dim conditions and thereby shorten shutter speed without raising ISO more than necessary. Don't forget to return lens to default aperture afterwards.

Yup! That is basically the whole philosophy behind the selecting of camera settings appropriate for subjects that are not running around or jumping about.

Some students of mine have gone so far as to write/print the above on an index card and keep it with their camera kit... but it only has to be refered to three or four times to become second nature... (really)
 
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richarddd wrote:
Barrie Davis wrote:
LostMySelf wrote:

I know how to use ISO/Shutter speed/Aperture but I am not good enough to know what settings to use and when, and I don't want to stand there for 30 minutes taking pictures with different settings. So my question would be what mode is good for nature/landscape? I haven't been out shooting yet with my new NEX-F3.
"P-rogram Mode" will do everything except set ISO and colour balance, and so "P-Mode" would not be wrong for landscapes.

But a good standard mode for everything, including landscapes, is "A-perture Mode." You set the Aperture, the camera does the shutter speed, and it does so in accordance with the luminosity of the subject, and the ISO you have set.

Hints for general use of "A-Mode"... NOT just landscapes:-
* For best image quality use the lowest ISO you can get away with in the light levels prevailing.
For best image quality, let in the most light you can without clipping highlights in which you wish to preserve detail, subject to using a shutter speed high enough to prevent motion blur and an aperture small enough to get desired DOF.
Oh! An "expose-to-the-right" fan," I see. Hmmm...not something I subscribe to, I'm afraid, not least because it is so expensive in "film" speed.


Once you've let in the most light possible, as above, consider whether you've approached clipping. If not, in some cameras increasing ISO from there will improve image quality compared to increasing brightness in post-processing, at least up to a point.



Errr... Would you not call that putting the ISO back where it WOULD have been, if you hadn't been doing all that "exposing-to-the-right," stuff?
* Then set the aperture to two stops down from its maximum, and leave it there as your default aperture.
That's a very general rule of thumb. It works for many lenses, but the better course is to test which aperture results in maximum sharpness.
OK . You point out a lens for which "2-stops down" does NOT work, meaning to a degree where the difference matters.

* Move AWAY from default aperture only to get more, or less, DoF as required.... or to admit more light in dim conditions and thereby shorten shutter speed without raising ISO more than necessary. Don't forget to return lens to default aperture afterwards.
Yup! That is basically the whole philosophy behind the selecting of camera settings appropriate for subjects that are not running around or jumping about.

Some students of mine have gone so far as to write/print the above on an index card and keep it with their camera kit... but it only has to be refered to three or four times to become second nature... (really)
 
Last edited:
FrankieJ wrote:
LostMySelf wrote:
FrankieJ wrote:
I don't want to stand there for 30 minutes taking pictures with different settings.
That's what photography IS! if you want to learn (virtually anything) you spend time doing it, trying variations and evaluating the results to see what you could do better next time.

Just having someone spoon feed you settings is cheating you of the pleasure of actively discovering and growing in the craft of photography.

It's better to learn to fish than to keep asking for others to provide for you.

That being said, we all need a starting point - try Landscape mode for landscape shots. It usually has an icon of a mountain on the mode dial.

--

Don't forget to have fun.
Oh hey I didn't mean it like that. I love being outside and just take it slow but I feel like it's maybe better to learn from one of the modes first and look at pictures later on to figure out why for example shutter speed is set to a certain number.
A sound idea, again the landscape mode is located on the mode dial between portrait (face) and Close-up (flower). Also the user manual usually has a description of what each scene mode does, contrast, saturation, metering, etc.
 
Barrie Davis wrote:
richarddd wrote:
Barrie Davis wrote:
LostMySelf wrote:

I know how to use ISO/Shutter speed/Aperture but I am not good enough to know what settings to use and when, and I don't want to stand there for 30 minutes taking pictures with different settings. So my question would be what mode is good for nature/landscape? I haven't been out shooting yet with my new NEX-F3.
"P-rogram Mode" will do everything except set ISO and colour balance, and so "P-Mode" would not be wrong for landscapes.

But a good standard mode for everything, including landscapes, is "A-perture Mode." You set the Aperture, the camera does the shutter speed, and it does so in accordance with the luminosity of the subject, and the ISO you have set.

Hints for general use of "A-Mode"... NOT just landscapes:-
* For best image quality use the lowest ISO you can get away with in the light levels prevailing.
For best image quality, let in the most light you can without clipping highlights in which you wish to preserve detail, subject to using a shutter speed high enough to prevent motion blur and an aperture small enough to get desired DOF.
Oh! An "expose-to-the-right" fan," I see. Hmmm...not something I subscribe to, I'm afraid, not least because it is so expensive in "film" speed.
Expensive?

You don't believe more light on the sensor (below clipping) increases the signal to noise ratio?
Once you've let in the most light possible, as above, consider whether you've approached clipping. If not, in some cameras increasing ISO from there will improve image quality compared to increasing brightness in post-processing, at least up to a point.
Errr... Would you not call that putting the ISO back where it WOULD have been, if you hadn't been doing all that "exposing-to-the-right," stuff?
Not necessarily. Also, as mentioned, it depends on the camera, specifically whether the sensor is isoless or not.
* Then set the aperture to two stops down from its maximum, and leave it there as your default aperture.
That's a very general rule of thumb. It works for many lenses, but the better course is to test which aperture results in maximum sharpness.
OK . You point out a lens for which "2-stops down" does NOT work, meaning to a degree where the difference matters.
I'd just set aperture based on desired DOF and the need to let in light for shutter speed. Those are much more important to image quality.

Generally, stopping down reduces the effects of lens flaws and increases diffraction, but those are far outweighed by DOF and shutter speed considerations.
* Move AWAY from default aperture only to get more, or less, DoF as required.... or to admit more light in dim conditions and thereby shorten shutter speed without raising ISO more than necessary. Don't forget to return lens to default aperture afterwards.
Yup! That is basically the whole philosophy behind the selecting of camera settings appropriate for subjects that are not running around or jumping about.

Some students of mine have gone so far as to write/print the above on an index card and keep it with their camera kit... but it only has to be refered to three or four times to become second nature... (really)
 
richarddd wrote:
Barrie Davis wrote:
richarddd wrote:
Barrie Davis wrote:
LostMySelf wrote:

I know how to use ISO/Shutter speed/Aperture but I am not good enough to know what settings to use and when, and I don't want to stand there for 30 minutes taking pictures with different settings. So my question would be what mode is good for nature/landscape? I haven't been out shooting yet with my new NEX-F3.
"P-rogram Mode" will do everything except set ISO and colour balance, and so "P-Mode" would not be wrong for landscapes.

But a good standard mode for everything, including landscapes, is "A-perture Mode." You set the Aperture, the camera does the shutter speed, and it does so in accordance with the luminosity of the subject, and the ISO you have set.

Hints for general use of "A-Mode"... NOT just landscapes:-

* For best image quality use the lowest ISO you can get away with in the light levels prevailing.
For best image quality, let in the most light you can without clipping highlights in which you wish to preserve detail, subject to using a shutter speed high enough to prevent motion blur and an aperture small enough to get desired DOF.
Oh! An "expose-to-the-right" fan," I see. Hmmm...not something I subscribe to, I'm afraid, not least because it is so expensive in "film" speed.
Expensive?
Yes. The only way to expose to the right is to increase exposure.. which is exactly the same as using a lower ISO... and I mean no practical photographic difference whatsoever.

Moreover, I've never understood why ETTR fans don't seem able to get a grip on that basic concept....[??] It calls into question their whole understanding of the topic. :-(
You don't believe more light on the sensor (below clipping) increases the signal to noise ratio?
You cannot expose to the right unless there is some spare "right" to expose to, by increasing exposure. Therefore, (even if it wasn't useless) ETTR cannot be applied to full tonal range subjects, (which landscapes mostly are, BTW) because the histo is already chock-full from side to side, .... maybe even bursting through... (shrugs).

So, by definition, ETTR can ONLY be applied to short tonal range subjects providing a central bump to the histogram, and nothing at the sides... (shrugs again). Now, across set of shots I want a constant noise characteristic, thank you.... not one that jumps about depending on the tonal structure of what's in shot.
Once you've let in the most light possible, as above, consider whether you've approached clipping. If not, in some cameras increasing ISO from there will improve image quality compared to increasing brightness in post-processing, at least up to a point.
Errr... Would you not call that putting the ISO back where it WOULD have been, if you hadn't been doing all that "exposing-to-the-right," stuff?
Not necessarily. Also, as mentioned, it depends on the camera, specifically whether the sensor is isoless or not.
* Then set the aperture to two stops down from its maximum, and leave it there as your default aperture.
That's a very general rule of thumb. It works for many lenses, but the better course is to test which aperture results in maximum sharpness.
OK . You point out a lens for which "2-stops down" does NOT work, meaning to a degree where the difference matters.
I'd just set aperture based on desired DOF and the need to let in light for shutter speed. Those are much more important to image quality.
Yes, but it helps beginners greatly to have a starting point, especially when there are no overriding considerations of DoF or shutter speed, that is, with subjects that are not jumping about or running around, ie. straightforward landscapes.

That is why it was couched in "default" terms, and if we are gonna have a default, then it might as well be one where the lens performs well.
Generally, stopping down reduces the effects of lens flaws and increases diffraction, but those are far outweighed by DOF and shutter speed considerations.
No, What overrides everything is coming away with a picture with minimum fuss, when DoF and shutter speed are NOT considerations. Also, 2-stops down has the merit of giving a starting point of reference, for when DoF and shutter speed ARE considerations...

.... .at the same time, gently encouraging those considerations to be made....(see below)

* Move AWAY from default aperture only to get more, or less, DoF as required.... or to admit more light in dim conditions and thereby shorten shutter speed without raising ISO more than necessary. Don't forget to return lens to default aperture afterwards.

I hope the 3-rule policy is clearer, now.

PS: I have some handy rules for fill-flash, too. :-)
 
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