Question about changing f stop exposure for class

Shyy

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Hi guys,

I have a project for my photography class. We are using regular B&W film camera. For this project we have to show a subject in different exposure which shows 3 stops over and under exposed. My question is if my logic is correct.

Say I am using my Canon AE-1 Program and it meters and tells me the subject correct exposure is f2 at iso 400 with a shutter speed of 125. My prime lens f stop range goes from f2 to f4. To get the first 3 under exposed, I would use the following parameters.

-3 = would be a F0.7 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to three stop faster which is 1/1000?

-2 = would be a F1 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to two stop faster which is 1/500?


-1 = would be a F1.4 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop faster which is 1/250?


n = 2 from Canon's meter so I would leave it at f2 with the shutter speed of 125

1 = 2.8, so I would just adjust it one stop to f2.8 with the shutter speed of 125

2 = 4, so I would just adjust it two stop to f4 with the shutter speed of 125

3 = 5.6, so I would just adjust it three stop to 5.6 with the shutter speed of 125




Does my logic seem correct?




Thanks!
 
Shyy wrote:

-1 = would be a F1.4 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop faster which is 1/250?

n = 2 from Canon's meter so I would leave it at f2 with the shutter speed of 125

1 = 2.8, so I would just adjust it one stop to f2.8 with the shutter speed of 125

Does my logic seem correct?
You have the exposure reversed. If you want to underexpose, you want to let in less light. So for example, -1 stop, you want to close the aperture from f/2.0 to f.2.8. Or you opt for a faster shutter speed. If you want to overexpose, you want to let in more light. +1 would require opening the aperture (which is beyond what your lens is capable of) or slowing the shutter speed to 1/60.
 
Last edited:
trekkeruss wrote:
Shyy wrote:

-1 = would be a F1.4 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop faster which is 1/250?

n = 2 from Canon's meter so I would leave it at f2 with the shutter speed of 125

1 = 2.8, so I would just adjust it one stop to f2.8 with the shutter speed of 125

Does my logic seem correct?
You have the exposure reversed. If you want to underexpose, you want to let in less light. So for example, -1 stop, you want to close the aperture from f/2.0 to f.2.8. Or you opt for a faster shutter speed. If you want to overexpose, you want to let in more light. +1 would require opening the aperture (which is beyond what your lens is capable of) or slowing the shutter speed to 1/60.
Thanks! you are absolute correct, I just looked at my sheet for the project and I did reverse the information.

Would this now be correct?

-3 = would be a F5.6 but since my lens can only do f4 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop faster which is 1/250?

-2 = would be a F4 I would leave my shutter speed to 125

-1 = would be a F2.8 I would leave my shutter speed to 125


n = 2 from Canon's meter so I would leave it at f2 with the shutter speed of 125

+1 = 1.4 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop slower which is 1/60?


+2 = 1 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to two stop slower which is 1/30?


+3 = 0.7 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to three stop slower which is 1/15?
 
Shyy wrote:

Hi guys,

I have a project for my photography class. We are using regular B&W film camera. For this project we have to show a subject in different exposure which shows 3 stops over and under exposed. My question is if my logic is correct.

Say I am using my Canon AE-1 Program and it meters and tells me the subject correct exposure is f2 at iso 400 with a shutter speed of 125. My prime lens f stop range goes from f2 to f4. To get the first 3 under exposed, I would use the following parameters.
Please explain "My prime lens f stop range goes from f2 to f4". I'm pretty sure your lens goes to f/16 and it may well go to f/22.
-3 = would be a F0.7 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to three stop faster which is 1/1000?
Have they bothered to teach you anything in this photography class? One of the first things that are taught about f/stops is that they are reciprocals. And the next thing is that the light that gets through a lens is reduced by the square of the f/stop.

Knowing this, you would discern that 3 stops under f/2 is f/5.6 (the traditional cadence of f/stops is 2,2.8,4.5.6,8,11,16,22). So 3 stops under 1/125 at 2 is 1/125 at 5.6.
-2 = would be a F1 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to two stop faster which is 1/500?
Again, leave the shutter speed the same and stop down 2 stops, or f/4.
-1 = would be a F1.4 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop faster which is 1/250?
Guess.
n = 2 from Canon's meter so I would leave it at f2 with the shutter speed of 125
That's your default exposure.
1 = 2.8, so I would just adjust it one stop to f2.8 with the shutter speed of 125
Since f/stops are reciprocal, f/2.8 allows half the light that gets through at f/2. Leave the lens at f/2 and double your exposure time to 1/60.
2 = 4, so I would just adjust it two stop to f4 with the shutter speed of 125
Two stops over 1/125 at 2 is 1/30 at 2.
3 = 5.6, so I would just adjust it three stop to 5.6 with the shutter speed of 125
3 stops over 1/125 at 2 is 1/15 at 2
Does my logic seem correct?
I ain't seen no logic.
 
Shyy wrote:

Would this now be correct?

-3 = would be a F5.6 but since my lens can only do f4 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop faster which is 1/250?

-2 = would be a F4 I would leave my shutter speed to 125

-1 = would be a F2.8 I would leave my shutter speed to 125

n = 2 from Canon's meter so I would leave it at f2 with the shutter speed of 125

+1 = 1.4 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop slower which is 1/60?

+2 = 1 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to two stop slower which is 1/30?

+3 = 0.7 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to three stop slower which is 1/15?
You can also adjust the ISO. So for +1, you could leave the aperture and shutter speed alone, and change the ISO to 200. For +2, you could have f/2.0, 1/60 and ISO 200 or f/2.0, 1/30, and ISO 400 or f/2.0, 1/125 and ISO 100.
 
Leonard Migliore wrote:
Shyy wrote:

Hi guys,

I have a project for my photography class. We are using regular B&W film camera. For this project we have to show a subject in different exposure which shows 3 stops over and under exposed. My question is if my logic is correct.

Say I am using my Canon AE-1 Program and it meters and tells me the subject correct exposure is f2 at iso 400 with a shutter speed of 125. My prime lens f stop range goes from f2 to f4. To get the first 3 under exposed, I would use the following parameters.
Please explain "My prime lens f stop range goes from f2 to f4". I'm pretty sure your lens goes to f/16 and it may well go to f/22.
-3 = would be a F0.7 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to three stop faster which is 1/1000?
Have they bothered to teach you anything in this photography class? One of the first things that are taught about f/stops is that they are reciprocals. And the next thing is that the light that gets through a lens is reduced by the square of the f/stop.

Knowing this, you would discern that 3 stops under f/2 is f/5.6 (the traditional cadence of f/stops is 2,2.8,4.5.6,8,11,16,22). So 3 stops under 1/125 at 2 is 1/125 at 5.6.
-2 = would be a F1 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to two stop faster which is 1/500?
Again, leave the shutter speed the same and stop down 2 stops, or f/4.
-1 = would be a F1.4 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop faster which is 1/250?
Guess.
n = 2 from Canon's meter so I would leave it at f2 with the shutter speed of 125
That's your default exposure.
1 = 2.8, so I would just adjust it one stop to f2.8 with the shutter speed of 125
Since f/stops are reciprocal, f/2.8 allows half the light that gets through at f/2. Leave the lens at f/2 and double your exposure time to 1/60.
2 = 4, so I would just adjust it two stop to f4 with the shutter speed of 125
Two stops over 1/125 at 2 is 1/30 at 2.
3 = 5.6, so I would just adjust it three stop to 5.6 with the shutter speed of 125
3 stops over 1/125 at 2 is 1/15 at 2
Does my logic seem correct?
I ain't seen no logic.
 
trekkeruss wrote:
Shyy wrote:

Would this now be correct?

-3 = would be a F5.6 but since my lens can only do f4 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop faster which is 1/250?

-2 = would be a F4 I would leave my shutter speed to 125

-1 = would be a F2.8 I would leave my shutter speed to 125

n = 2 from Canon's meter so I would leave it at f2 with the shutter speed of 125

+1 = 1.4 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop slower which is 1/60?

+2 = 1 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to two stop slower which is 1/30?

+3 = 0.7 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to three stop slower which is 1/15?
You can also adjust the ISO. So for +1, you could leave the aperture and shutter speed alone, and change the ISO to 200. For +2, you could have f/2.0, 1/60 and ISO 200 or f/2.0, 1/30, and ISO 400 or f/2.0, 1/125 and ISO 100.
thanks for the tip, we can only use iso 400. I'm starting to get the hang of this. :)
 
trekkeruss wrote:

You can also adjust the ISO. So for +1, you could leave the aperture and shutter speed alone, and change the ISO to 200. For +2, you could have f/2.0, 1/60 and ISO 200 or f/2.0, 1/30, and ISO 400 or f/2.0, 1/125 and ISO 100.
The OP is using a film SLR. On that, changing the ISO setting will not affect the sensitivity of the sensor (film). It will only affect exposure indirectly, by causing the camera to modify the suggested aperture and shutter speed.
 
Tom_N wrote:
trekkeruss wrote:

You can also adjust the ISO. So for +1, you could leave the aperture and shutter speed alone, and change the ISO to 200. For +2, you could have f/2.0, 1/60 and ISO 200 or f/2.0, 1/30, and ISO 400 or f/2.0, 1/125 and ISO 100.
The OP is using a film SLR. On that, changing the ISO setting will not affect the sensitivity of the sensor (film). It will only affect exposure indirectly...
.... by causing the camera to modify the suggested aperture and shutter speed.
Which modification is exactly what is required. In fact, changing ISO would be a very practical way to do it.

Therefore, if using 400 ISO, shoot at 50, 100, 200, (400) 800, 1600, 3200 (seven frames, respectively.)

The difficulty comes from ascertaining which exposure is ABSOLUTELY CORRECT at 400, in order to establish the centre point of the whole bracket. Myself, I would recommend the use of an incident light meter, or (second best) metering from an 18% grey card in the same light as the subject.
 
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Barrie Davis wrote:
Which modification is exactly what is required. In fact, changing ISO would be a very practical way to do it.
Therefore, if using 400 ISO, shoot at 50, 100, 200, (400) 800, 1600, 3200 (seven frames, respectively.)

The difficulty comes from ascertaining which exposure is ABSOLUTELY CORRECT at 400, in order to establish the centre point of the whole bracket. Myself, I would recommend the use of an incident light meter, or (second best) metering from an 18% grey card in the same light as the subject.
Alternatively, shoot an even WIDER bracketed series, (9 or 11 frames, say) and from those use the seven frames which are best centred about the correct exposure, as chosen from the negatives when actually developed.

Note: You may get extra Brownie points for taking this empirical route to a successful project. (Photography is a practical art, so anything that works should be considered legitimate.)
 
Last edited:
Barrie Davis wrote:
Barrie Davis wrote:
Which modification is exactly what is required. In fact, changing ISO would be a very practical way to do it.
Therefore, if using 400 ISO, shoot at 50, 100, 200, (400) 800, 1600, 3200 (seven frames, respectively.)

The difficulty comes from ascertaining which exposure is ABSOLUTELY CORRECT at 400, in order to establish the centre point of the whole bracket. Myself, I would recommend the use of an incident light meter, or (second best) metering from an 18% grey card in the same light as the subject.
Alternatively, shoot an even WIDER bracketed series, (9 or 11 frames, say) and from those use the seven frames which are best centred about the correct exposure, as chosen from the negatives when actually developed.

Note: You may get extra Brownie points for taking this empirical route to a successful project. (Photography is a practical art, so anything that works should be considered legitimate.)
 
Shyy wrote:
trekkeruss wrote:
Shyy wrote:

-1 = would be a F1.4 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop faster which is 1/250?

n = 2 from Canon's meter so I would leave it at f2 with the shutter speed of 125

1 = 2.8, so I would just adjust it one stop to f2.8 with the shutter speed of 125

Does my logic seem correct?
You have the exposure reversed. If you want to underexpose, you want to let in less light. So for example, -1 stop, you want to close the aperture from f/2.0 to f.2.8. Or you opt for a faster shutter speed. If you want to overexpose, you want to let in more light. +1 would require opening the aperture (which is beyond what your lens is capable of) or slowing the shutter speed to 1/60.
Thanks! you are absolute correct, I just looked at my sheet for the project and I did reverse the information.

Would this now be correct?

-3 = would be a F5.6 but since my lens can only do f4 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop faster which is 1/250?

-2 = would be a F4 I would leave my shutter speed to 125

-1 = would be a F2.8 I would leave my shutter speed to 125

n = 2 from Canon's meter so I would leave it at f2 with the shutter speed of 125

+1 = 1.4 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop slower which is 1/60?

+2 = 1 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to two stop slower which is 1/30?

+3 = 0.7 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to three stop slower which is 1/15?
Why do you say your lens can only do f/4? It may not be able to use f-numbers less than f/2, but it should have f-numbers beyond f/4, all the way up to f/16 to f/22. Can you explain?

Dave
 
dsjtecserv wrote:
Shyy wrote:
trekkeruss wrote:
Shyy wrote:

-1 = would be a F1.4 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop faster which is 1/250?

n = 2 from Canon's meter so I would leave it at f2 with the shutter speed of 125

1 = 2.8, so I would just adjust it one stop to f2.8 with the shutter speed of 125

Does my logic seem correct?
You have the exposure reversed. If you want to underexpose, you want to let in less light. So for example, -1 stop, you want to close the aperture from f/2.0 to f.2.8. Or you opt for a faster shutter speed. If you want to overexpose, you want to let in more light. +1 would require opening the aperture (which is beyond what your lens is capable of) or slowing the shutter speed to 1/60.
Thanks! you are absolute correct, I just looked at my sheet for the project and I did reverse the information.

Would this now be correct?

-3 = would be a F5.6 but since my lens can only do f4 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop faster which is 1/250?

-2 = would be a F4 I would leave my shutter speed to 125

-1 = would be a F2.8 I would leave my shutter speed to 125

n = 2 from Canon's meter so I would leave it at f2 with the shutter speed of 125

+1 = 1.4 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop slower which is 1/60?

+2 = 1 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to two stop slower which is 1/30?

+3 = 0.7 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to three stop slower which is 1/15?
Why do you say your lens can only do f/4? It may not be able to use f-numbers less than f/2, but it should have f-numbers beyond f/4, all the way up to f/16 to f/22. Can you explain?

Dave
 
Shyy wrote:
dsjtecserv wrote:
Shyy wrote:
trekkeruss wrote:
Shyy wrote:

-1 = would be a F1.4 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop faster which is 1/250?

n = 2 from Canon's meter so I would leave it at f2 with the shutter speed of 125

1 = 2.8, so I would just adjust it one stop to f2.8 with the shutter speed of 125

Does my logic seem correct?
You have the exposure reversed. If you want to underexpose, you want to let in less light. So for example, -1 stop, you want to close the aperture from f/2.0 to f.2.8. Or you opt for a faster shutter speed. If you want to overexpose, you want to let in more light. +1 would require opening the aperture (which is beyond what your lens is capable of) or slowing the shutter speed to 1/60.
Thanks! you are absolute correct, I just looked at my sheet for the project and I did reverse the information.

Would this now be correct?

-3 = would be a F5.6 but since my lens can only do f4 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop faster which is 1/250?

-2 = would be a F4 I would leave my shutter speed to 125

-1 = would be a F2.8 I would leave my shutter speed to 125

n = 2 from Canon's meter so I would leave it at f2 with the shutter speed of 125

+1 = 1.4 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to one stop slower which is 1/60?

+2 = 1 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to two stop slower which is 1/30?

+3 = 0.7 but since my lens can only do f2 - I would change my shutter speed to three stop slower which is 1/15?
Why do you say your lens can only do f/4? It may not be able to use f-numbers less than f/2, but it should have f-numbers beyond f/4, all the way up to f/16 to f/22. Can you explain?

Dave
 
1. Why are you required to use a B&W fllm camera?

2. What is the goal of the exercise i.e why 3 stops under/over exposure?
 
MrMojo wrote:

1. Why are you required to use a B&W fllm camera?

2. What is the goal of the exercise i.e why 3 stops under/over exposure?
Many photography classes are taught by Luddites. They think digital is a passing fad and only film is of lasting significance. They're idiots who require their students buy equipment they'll probably never use again and learn irrelevant skills when they could be doing something useful. Most are high school football coaches in real life. Or community college volleyball coaches.
 
Shyy wrote:

Abit confused with the iso, is giing from ISO 100 to 200 to 300 considered each a full stop?
A stop is always a factor of 2, so going from 100 to 200 is 1 stop, going from 100 to 400 is 2 stops, going from 100 to 800 is 3 stops, and so on.
 
Ted Kahn wrote:
Shyy wrote:

Abit confused with the iso, is giing from ISO 100 to 200 to 300 considered each a full stop?
So that you should not be confused, was why I wrote out in full the actual ISOs to use.
A stop is always a factor of 2, so going from 100 to 200 is 1 stop, going from 100 to 400 is 2 stops, going from 100 to 800 is 3 stops, and so on.
 
MarkInSF wrote:
MrMojo wrote:

1. Why are you required to use a B&W fllm camera?

2. What is the goal of the exercise i.e why 3 stops under/over exposure?
Many photography classes are taught by Luddites. They think digital is a passing fad and only film is of lasting significance. They're idiots who require their students buy equipment they'll probably never use again and learn irrelevant skills when they could be doing something useful. Most are high school football coaches in real life. Or community college volleyball coaches.
That's interesting... But I am hoping that the OP will respond because I assume that the instructor tied the assignment to concepts he is covering in the class.
 
1. This is a black and white film course

2. I think he wants to pick the ones that is most exposed correctly and to show us how to manipulate the aperture with shutter speed. I am going to work on this over the weekend, can't wait! Any good subjects you guys recommend?



MrMojo wrote:

1. Why are you required to use a B&W fllm camera?

2. What is the goal of the exercise i.e why 3 stops under/over exposure?
 

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