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Which one to move to (from a PL1 now)?
- Thread starter pannayar
- Start date
captura
Veteran Member
It sounds like you are in a buying mood. But before you trade your EPL-1, did you check to see if your noise reduction is turned on, as somebody suggested?pannayar wrote:
Thanks. Yes I found out no IS on the Panasonics.
For some reason I am very happy with the IS on my PL1, can manage to get near blur free (subject still) indoor shots even around 1/3 sec...
So, in that regard I am heavily swayed back to the Olympus bodies. The 16mp newer sensor had me looking at the PM2, but the price is a bit more than what I want to spend at this point.
I wish I had not come out of being a simple p&s (or camera phone) shooter, life was simpler then
I like my E-PL1, it's an IQ-monster. And it has that special Olympus soul!
clengman
Veteran Member
Not to disparage youur decision, if you enjoy your camera that's all that matters, but I would never buy a GF series camera for one simple reason, no hotshoe!
Kim Letkeman
Veteran Member
Yeah, I have many shots at those speeds in my gallery ... but they are either using stabilized lenses or they are on tripod.
As I said, a subset of people put that feature high on their list. The video is abysmal in all but the OM-D so that trumps the IBIS for me.
I bought four bodies for my video experiments etc ... and two of them were used. The G3 was the best deal around through the early winter for a 16mp sensor.
Agreed ... too many choices. But life was also more complex, as in some things just could not be captured or always just sucked on "film" ...I wish I had not come out of being a simple p&s (or camera phone) shooter, life was simpler then
Ulfric M Douglas
Veteran Member
Just wait for the prices to drop and then buy an e-pL5 or e-pM2
Currently the only 'cheap' camera that makes (argueably) better pictures than your e-pL1 might be the Lumix G3, but that's got a darn big EVF on the top.
Let me clarify : e-pL2, e-pL3, e-pM1, e-P3 do NOT make better pictures than your e-pL1. They do other things better.
The newer, more expensive cameras do things better, PLUS in general they have the ability to make better pictures, and in lower light they are four times better, maybe more.
I've kind of decided to go either with an EPL5 eventually (currently use EPL1 + a VF2) or a G5. I will keep my EPL1, since the onboard flash is very handy, both when needing a fill or emergency flash or a trigger for off-camera flashes (even with optical slaves)...plus don't have to take the viewfinder off. There is nothing wrong with learning how to illuminate a scene or subject, which is always an interesting challenge, rather than depending on high ISO (although high ISO ability is a nice feature to have). Although the EPL5 seems to have very good IQ, the G5 has a lot of other features that add to usability, so kind of balances it off in a way (and it does have ' very good' IQ). Although I don't think you would gain a lot in image quality going to any of the Pens with the 12mp sensor, think you would gain in focus speed and features...depending.
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That's ok. Of course, if you need a hotshoe, don't buy the GF5.
tedolf
Veteran Member
is a powerful motivator and difficult to over come.
There is nothing wrong with your sensor. I reviewed your thread with the dark shots. Every sensor has hot pixels, stuck pixels, etc. from time to time. They generally do not matter in photo's and when they do use the pixel mapping function.
I have reviewed the few photo's you have posted in threads here on DPR. There is nothing you are shooting that is beyond the capability of the E-pl1 and 20mm f/1.7 lens that you currently have Actually, there is nothing you have posted that you could not have gotten with your LX7, a very good camera. You have not posted anything showing that your E-pl1 and 20mm are could not get the shot.
You do not need more than +/- 1 EV exposure bracketing which the E-pl1 has. The main purpose of EV bracketing is to come home with a good expousure if you blow the metering of the scene. With film this was a real possibility. With live view where you are previewing the actual exposure this sort of gross exposure error is almost impossible unless you have to shoot very fast. Even then, if your metering is off more than 2 EV (-1 and +1 EV) something is drastically wrong, e.g. you should be using spot metering, etc.
The other reason for EV braketing is HDR. Here agian, if you are combining shots more than 2 EV's apart the HDR is going to look very "fakey" unless you do some very fancy PP. So it is still best to limit EV bracketing to +/- 1 EV.
Finally, looking at your posted photo's it is clear that your photographic skills are very rudimentary. You would be far better off investing in a community college photography course or reading some basic photography books so as to get the most out of the very competent equipment that you already have rather than throwing $$ at equipment that isn't going to make you any better of a photographer.
E-pl1 + 40mm Rokkor M f/2.0 lens:
So, if you just want a new camera becuause you want a new toy, then go ahead. But don't believe for a minute it is going to make any difference in your photography because the camera is not the problem.
Tedolph
Guy Parsons
Veteran Member
The "cramming" seems to have worked nicely as the newer sensor delivers noticeably better results (from the readings in this forum) and particularly so when reaching for higher ISO and confronted with higher dynamic range situations.
As for me, two E-PL1 that worked for me, but have ordered E-PL5 as I see that as the first true upgrade from E-PL1.
Meanwhile one of my E-PL1 was unfixable under warranty so they replaced it with an E-P3. To me it looks to be the same image quality as E-PL1 at a casual glance, but the speed of operation and reliability of AF has taken a nice step forward from E-PL1 to E-P3.
As for your request about bracketing, from E-PL2 onwards the situations is this (from my pages)...
For E-PL2 and up Exposure Bracketing this means....
2 step at 1 EV = 1 EV spread
3 step at 1 EV = 2 EV spread (same as E-PL1)
5 step at 1 EV = 4 EV spread
7 step at 0.7 EV = 4.2 EV spread
And for E-PL5 and E-PM2 they now have a separate "HDR Bracket" option where one press of the shutter yields the necessary number of shots. Details not spelled out in manual, when I get my hands on my E-PL5 (this week I hope) I can elaborate.
Regards..... Guy
Thanks for the feedback. I will keep it in mind. Yes, I am learning the ropes. Can you tell me what is special in the last two pics?
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I kind of think (and yeah this is a gear forum) that everyone, all, would gain more from studying, learning from great photographers, from books, from just learning how to see and compose, and how to criticize one's own work, than by buying a new camera...when good enough is good enough (relative to gear). Although I am tempted, don't really know if I will buy a new one soon (unless the price makes one irresistibletedolf wrote:
is a powerful motivator and difficult to over come.
There is nothing wrong with your sensor. I reviewed your thread with the dark shots. Every sensor has hot pixels, stuck pixels, etc. from time to time. They generally do not matter in photo's and when they do use the pixel mapping function.
I have reviewed the few photo's you have posted in threads here on DPR. There is nothing you are shooting that is beyond the capability of the E-pl1 and 20mm f/1.7 lens that you currently have Actually, there is nothing you have posted that you could not have gotten with your LX7, a very good camera. You have not posted anything showing that your E-pl1 and 20mm are could not get the shot.
You do not need more than +/- 1 EV exposure bracketing which the E-pl1 has. The main purpose of EV bracketing is to come home with a good expousure if you blow the metering of the scene. With film this was a real possibility. With live view where you are previewing the actual exposure this sort of gross exposure error is almost impossible unless you have to shoot very fast. Even then, if your metering is off more than 2 EV (-1 and +1 EV) something is drastically wrong, e.g. you should be using spot metering, etc.
The other reason for EV braketing is HDR. Here agian, if you are combining shots more than 2 EV's apart the HDR is going to look very "fakey" unless you do some very fancy PP. So it is still best to limit EV bracketing to +/- 1 EV.
Finally, looking at your posted photo's it is clear that your photographic skills are very rudimentary. You would be far better off investing in a community college photography course or reading some basic photography books so as to get the most out of the very competent equipment that you already have rather than throwing $$ at equipment that isn't going to make you any better of a photographer.
E-pl1 + 40mm Rokkor M f/2.0 lens:
So, if you just want a new camera becuause you want a new toy, then go ahead. But don't believe for a minute it is going to make any difference in your photography because the camera is not the problem.
Tedolph
. (just bought an extra EPL1). Sometimes when you really get used to exactly what "your" camera will do under certain conditions, you gain more. After all, and none of us is Bresson...he pretty much shot with one camera and a lens or maybe two, depending on what a person reads. Whether a person likes HCB or not, he did OK.--
My Gallery is here -
http://www.pbase.com/madlights
Why so serious? :The Joker
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tedolf
Veteran Member
Nothing.
They are ordinary photo's from an E-pl1, a good lens and a marginally competent photographer.
Actually, the last two are all screwed up becuase of too much contrast adjustment in PP.
Tedolph
Guy Parsons
Veteran Member
The black image you showed had no exif data. What were you doing?
Did you have Noise Reduction at Auto? This will cause dark frame subtraction to kick in at 4 seconds and longer to remove many hot pixel problems.
Do the hot pixels appear in all shots or only when you shoot the back of the lens cap?
Regards....... Guy
Did you have Noise Reduction at Auto? This will cause dark frame subtraction to kick in at 4 seconds and longer to remove many hot pixel problems.
Do the hot pixels appear in all shots or only when you shoot the back of the lens cap?
Regards....... Guy
It was a screen capture at full resolution (was easier that way, you still can see some exif at the top of the image). The hot pixels appear in all shots.
Guy Parsons
Veteran Member
Ah, thanks, now I see it! The 1 second exposure may explain some pixel heatup, so step 1. is always try pixel mapping in the menu, then step 2. try setting Noise Reduction to ON so hopefully the dark frame subtraction cuts in before 2 seconds.
Regards...... Guy
Regards...... Guy
Yes I am learning and I would be happy to hear what made it clear, the absence of good photos or presence of bad ones? If the latter, I would be happier to know which ones and why. Not to derail the thread, here is a recent pic from my PL1 that I liked. Thanks.
Stan Powers
Veteran Member
On a lark, I bought a Panasonic G3 w/ kit 14-42 for $299 (new) from B&H (my intent was to simply have a m4/3 body for my old Zuiko lenses) and am stunned at what an excellent camera it is.
Having had and extensively shot an OM-D EM-5, I will tell you that this little gem does (conservatively) 90% of what the OM-D can do at 25% of the price.
to quote dpreview:
Simply put, the G3 produces some of the finest images we have ever seen from Micro Four Thirds sensor technology. That it is possible to capture pictures with the G3 whose image quality is virtually indistinguishable from an entry-level DSLR is impressive. That you can achieve it in a camera of this price range is nothing short of remarkable.
So my 2¢: grab a G3 (body only for $249) while they last...
G3 at B&H
--
Too Much Gear - Too Litte Time!
http://picasaweb.google.com/akasrp
Having had and extensively shot an OM-D EM-5, I will tell you that this little gem does (conservatively) 90% of what the OM-D can do at 25% of the price.
to quote dpreview:
Simply put, the G3 produces some of the finest images we have ever seen from Micro Four Thirds sensor technology. That it is possible to capture pictures with the G3 whose image quality is virtually indistinguishable from an entry-level DSLR is impressive. That you can achieve it in a camera of this price range is nothing short of remarkable.
So my 2¢: grab a G3 (body only for $249) while they last...
G3 at B&H
--
Too Much Gear - Too Litte Time!
http://picasaweb.google.com/akasrp
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Thanks for that input. Compared to current prices 299 for new seems like a big steal
I will add that to my list of candidates (though I am prefeering the OLYs for their IBIS).
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