Loving the DP1m - Some pictures from this weekend.

I'm mainly a Leica M9 shooter these days but occasionally get out my Canon 5DmkII when the mood strikes me. I was looking for something a bit more portable that would still give me good quality and I stumbled on the DP1m. Really enjoying it so far.

Just wish the workflow was easier...the Sigma editing software is a nerve-wracking slug. Then I still have to finish up in Lightroom. :/



























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Best Regards, James

Magnificent work.

Excellent pics! One of the advantages the DP1 M has over the DP1x is minimum close focusing distance of 20cm (without having to use an additional macro filter). I can see you made good use of this.

Nice work! You seem to have the hang of it.

-Scott

The 7th image has some green fringing in it, but I don't know of any lens that wouldn't have any issues in such circumstances. Even my Zeiss 50mm f/2 Makro-Planar ZE suffers from such problems.

But you're right - the camera is a joy to use and you're clearly having fun with it.

Beautiful set of images Carbon111: I particularly like the 3rd shot of the tree and lighthouse. Thanks for sharing and post more soon.

thanks for all the props, everybody!

I'll post some more pictures soon.

I think the only thing that will limit my use of the camera is the rather frustrating and time-consuming post-processing workflow. I'll keep my fingers crossed that we'll see Lightroom support sooner rather than later. I was considering adding a DP2m right away but at this point I think I'll wait and see about that support - it would make a world of difference!

Thanks again for the positive reception!

Carbon111 said:

Carbon111 wrote:

thanks for all the props, everybody!

I'll post some more pictures soon.

I think the only thing that will limit my use of the camera is the rather frustrating and time-consuming post-processing workflow. I'll keep my fingers crossed that we'll see Lightroom support sooner rather than later. I was considering adding a DP2m right away but at this point I think I'll wait and see about that support - it would make a world of difference!

Click to expand...

You may be waiting a while...

If the FOV difference is that significant for you, then I would recommend the DP2M. However, I would wait and see what Sigma has up their sleeves for 2013.

-Scott

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Carbon111,

Great set, one of the better ones showing off the DP1M.

Is that the lighthouse in Mukilteo? If so I don't remember that tree, but then I haven't been there since 1999.

Btw, I see that you have a severe analog disease. No surprise you like the DP1M, as it is the best virtual analog to be found in the photography world.

Happy New Year,

Bill C,

Austin TX

Thanks, Bill!

That is indeed the Mukilteo lighthouse. I've lived in Mukilteo for about eleven years now. The tree's been there for at least as long as I've been here...I love the odd red cast the branches have.

I have to admit the DP1m has a very "analog" look to its captures - very film-like.

Here's one more of the light for good measure:
















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Best Regards, James

great pics, nice shots!!!

Beautiful set of shots.

Re workflow. a few practical things have helped me to save time with my DP2M and the latest version of SPP (v5.4.1).

1. The LCD on the DP2M thankfully describes very accurately the color of the final image. If the colors don’t look right on the LCD, they won’t look right on the computer screen. (BTW, my screen is a calibrated Eizo ColorEdge CG275W with inbuilt colorimeter).
2. My main point: as others have said here, and I have recently rediscovered, setting the White Balance in SPP to Fluorescent and the Color Mode to Standard (sometimes Vivid or Neutral) , gets me a whole lot further to color acceptability, regardless of the lighting conditions. (I now have my DP2M and SD1 White Balance set permanently on Fluorescent in the camera menu).
3. I start with contrast turned right down to low and saturation up a little.
4. Occasionally I use FOV Classic Blue and Sunlight , and back off the saturation (thank you, LarryJ).

If I adhere to the above, I need very little further work in Lightroom, Capture One, or DxO Optics Pro, etc. Hope this is of some help with your DP1M image processing as well.

Thanks!

Those seem like very useful tips indeed.

What's the idea behind using the fluorescent WB setting?

Frankly, I don’t know why Fluorescent works. I arrived at it purely by empirical observation. I discovered it first by photographing an original painting in daylight and looking for the most color accurate reproducibility. I tried Sunlight, Shade, Overcast, etc and was pulling my hair out – yellow-oranges were too yellow – not saturated enough, until I discovered the Fluorescent setting. With Fluorescent, all the painting colors reproduced extraordinarily well on my calibrated monitor.

I found another issue I have no answer to at this time as well. I couldn’t get Custom White Balance to work at all with the DP2M and SPP v5.4.1. I have tried my CBL, Colorright, and Zerocs as instructed, and my WhiBal gray card placed in the painting scene as well. None could get the yellow-orange color right either. But with my Bayer camera (an M9 and my wife’s X1) these devices all work nicely as claimed. – no issue. What gives?

I applied the Fluorescent setting to my older Foveon images in the manner described in my last post. Despite the varying light sources, most images looked far more realistic to me, without the need for further heavy post processing in other programs.

This may be a peculiarity to my eyes and my system, but it is easy enough to check for yourself and make up your own mind.

A very nice set of images my favorite being the B&W seagull.