Self-made Af assist lamp for s602z (no need to bring torch again)^^

'03:

Very nice!

I have been amazed by these super led "flashlights" but never thought of using one for AF assist.

Did you get some "standard" commercial unit and make the mounting, or did you need to build the whole thing?

If the former, what kind did you start with and where dod you get it?

Congrats on an ingenious solution to a problem a lot of us have (I suffered from it yesterday afternoon trying to take pix at a dance).

Best regards,

Doug Kerr
 
Very clever!

1. So I am assumuing this works as a "stand alone" device you have to just switch it on to use. No connection or sync with the camera?

2. How is it powered?

3. How far is it good for?

4. Could you provide a parts list?

Thanks, Polara

http://www.pbase.com/polara
My af assist lamp^^ , it is made by 4 green color ultra bright LED
with effective area 4M diameter.





Welcome for comment
 
That looks a lot like the LED Headlamp I suggested some time back and got blasted for...

But I always thought it would work. Looking forward to seeing specs and shots made with this.
1. So I am assumuing this works as a "stand alone" device you have
to just switch it on to use. No connection or sync with the camera?

2. How is it powered?

3. How far is it good for?

4. Could you provide a parts list?

Thanks, Polara

http://www.pbase.com/polara
My af assist lamp^^ , it is made by 4 green color ultra bright LED
with effective area 4M diameter.





Welcome for comment
--
Chefziggy
http://www.pbase.com/chefziggy
 
But I always thought it would work. Looking forward to seeing
specs and shots made with this.
1. So I am assumuing this works as a "stand alone" device you have
to just switch it on to use. No connection or sync with the camera?

2. How is it powered?

3. How far is it good for?

4. Could you provide a parts list?

Thanks, Polara

http://www.pbase.com/polara
My af assist lamp^^ , it is made by 4 green color ultra bright LED
with effective area 4M diameter.
--

I would like to suggest to use IR LEDs (Infrared) instead of human eye visible LEDs since Infra Red are "visible" to CCD of DC. So you wont feel like carrying a flash light along with the camera since it is invisible to our eyes.

Regards,
SM Lim
 
My af assist lamp^^ , it is made by 4 green color ultra bright LED
with effective area 4M diameter.





Welcome for comment
--

With an effective area of 4M diameter, what is the gain over the default 2M camera setting ?

Happy shooting

Mike Chinnock
Sanyo VPC-250, VPC-350X; HP C912; Fuji S602
Sunpak 611; Kenko VC-200 HI
 
Won't work. Someone here did just that. Used IR LED's to make an illuminator but it didn't work. To quote DomT "If you try the wonderful search facility on this forum you will see that this most interesting of topics has been discussed before." Basically, I'm too lazy to find it for you. grin

Apparently there is some internal IR filter that prevents enough IR light from getting into the CCD for the camera to focus. The S602 DOES use an IR prefocusing method (I think. It determines a rough focus distance.) but that all takes place outside of the CCD circuitry. The phase detection system that does the final focus works with the light hitting the CCD and very little IR gets through to it.

But then again, I could be completely wrong.
--
I would like to suggest to use IR LEDs (Infrared) instead of human
eye visible LEDs since Infra Red are "visible" to CCD of DC. So you
wont feel like carrying a flash light along with the camera since
it is invisible to our eyes.

Regards,
SM Lim
--
Chefziggy
http://www.pbase.com/chefziggy
 
To me, this is where the conversation usually breaks down. SO I'm going to attempt to make this as clear as possible.

IF you are shooting strictly in Auto modes, then yes, the green LED's may affect the white balance. Because in these modes, the exposure and white balance is determined BEFORE the picture is actually taken. I wouldn't reccomend this.

However, if you are using full manual, you can focus (in manual focus too) then turn out the light and take the shot using available light.

But wait! Since we are talking low-light situations, most of us are going to be using a flash. Preferably an external one, but the internal flash will work for short (12ft. max) distances. In this situation, YOU control the exposure and white balance. Or at least you should. By matching the camera's ISO and Aperture settings to those of the flash you get proper exposure. Setting the white balance to incandescance makes that be correct.

At this point, leaving the LED's on (probably) won't matter. The flash will wash out the LED spot. Or at least it would with white LED's. The green ones might still affect the colors of your subject.

I hope this helps.
I cannot see the pictures...

btw, do u turn the LED off after you got the focus? Is the GREEN
color going to affect the white balance setting?
--
Chefziggy
http://www.pbase.com/chefziggy
 
The green light will only be washed out if you use a flash (internal/external) in combination with a very high shutter speed. You can use shutter speeds of 1/1000 of a second with this cam without missing any of the flash exposure. If you use such fast shutter speeds you will probably not be able to see the green led light at all. However, if you use the default 1/60 or 1/120 shutter speeds from P or auto mode, you will see the green led for sure!
 
A little bit more info would have helped, even if just a seperate shot of the two items hidden by the elastic that slips over the barrel .

The left item obviously are the 4 H.I. LEDs on a small piece of perf-board. The right side item almost hidden by the strechy material must be another small board with a four LED flyback type driver, normally used to power white or blue ultra bright Leds powered by the single 2000mAh GP AAA.

Nothing out of the ordinary, but where does he hide his momentary push button and the case for the battery. I would imagine the best mounting place for the battery holder would be the tripod thread. with a P.B. switch besides it. This would make it easy to turn the lamp 0n with your left hand thumb.

In effecct this setup needs some more testing, it is all to easy to be fooled by the 2 meter AF default, combined with the wide range DOF of all digital camers. This happend to me when first trying to test the 602. I went into our complete dark basement storage room and blasted away with the build in flash. All pictures came out fine. But guess what? All the shelves were in the range of 1.5 to 3 meters.
MrMagoo
The green light will only be washed out if you use a flash
(internal/external) in combination with a very high shutter speed.
You can use shutter speeds of 1/1000 of a second with this cam
without missing any of the flash exposure. If you use such fast
shutter speeds you will probably not be able to see the green led
light at all. However, if you use the default 1/60 or 1/120 shutter
speeds from P or auto mode, you will see the green led for sure!
 
To MrMagoo:
in fact you seems smart, but not really the "true" smart.

Firstly, i am not using the GP 2000mAh, and if this "small device" use such battery then you need to face several problem, e.g. resistants and current limit and optimized voltage......by the way the battery next to the camera is only for size ratio reference.

secondly, as I use Ultra bright green LED, the cover distance is 4 meter.

Moreover, all the parts of my lovely device is only placed on the service of the adapter tube, including the battery, switch, LED and the LED Holder(by the way, i have make a good design for such device. it allow user to replace the LED freely.) ALL the electronic parts is placed over the 3.5 cm long adapter tube.

Finally, if anyone who want to share my experience, pls inform me, then i would try to make a simple web site to share my experience on this.
The green light will only be washed out if you use a flash
(internal/external) in combination with a very high shutter speed.
You can use shutter speeds of 1/1000 of a second with this cam
without missing any of the flash exposure. If you use such fast
shutter speeds you will probably not be able to see the green led
light at all. However, if you use the default 1/60 or 1/120 shutter
speeds from P or auto mode, you will see the green led for sure!
 
in fact, the idea of developing such device is induced by the product of "inova" mini-torch.

The whole device is built by myself, from purchasing the raw material to finish the final product.
'03:

Very nice!

I have been amazed by these super led "flashlights" but never
thought of using one for AF assist.

Did you get some "standard" commercial unit and make the mounting,
or did you need to build the whole thing?

If the former, what kind did you start with and where dod you get it?

Congrats on an ingenious solution to a problem a lot of us have (I
suffered from it yesterday afternoon trying to take pix at a dance).

Best regards,

Doug Kerr
 
i have experimented the IR LED instead using "Super Bright White" LED or "Super Bright Green". As Chefziggy said, ir LED is no use for focusing.

But accidently, i discovered something interest. if use "Super Bright IR" LED, 602 can make the night shot in dark place similar to sony717(however, as 602z has a IR absorb lens in front of ccd. So 717 use 2 IR LED to make night shot, then 602z need to use 4 "Super Bright IR LED" to achieve night shot within short distance with longer exposure period.
Apparently there is some internal IR filter that prevents enough IR
light from getting into the CCD for the camera to focus. The S602
DOES use an IR prefocusing method (I think. It determines a rough
focus distance.) but that all takes place outside of the CCD
circuitry. The phase detection system that does the final focus
works with the light hitting the CCD and very little IR gets
through to it.

But then again, I could be completely wrong.
--
I would like to suggest to use IR LEDs (Infrared) instead of human
eye visible LEDs since Infra Red are "visible" to CCD of DC. So you
wont feel like carrying a flash light along with the camera since
it is invisible to our eyes.

Regards,
SM Lim
--
Chefziggy
http://www.pbase.com/chefziggy
 
Why are you using a green led instead of a white one? Does that give you better AF performance? (as I remember, the cam has more green photosites)
 
Ha ha! you are really clever ^^, but your answer is not totally correct.

Yes! fujifilm's ccd has G-R-G-B photosites, and i have tested its sensitivity by using white light and green light, obviously, the green light allow me to get longer auto-focus-distance.

But is that mean fujifilm's ccd has the bias? The answer is not really, since up-to-day the brightest color LED is the Green one. The green one can light up much much longer distance than the "super white LED".
Why are you using a green led instead of a white one? Does that
give you better AF performance? (as I remember, the cam has more
green photosites)
 
i have use a laser pointer(which can produce some pattern of laser on the wall) to test whether it is a good choice to act as the af assist lamp of s602z.

unfortunately, not successful.......i think Sony has some special design on its af system, so sony DC can use laser to assist af...
i was looking at a laser light beam.....does anyone know if this
would work?
 
i really not understand your question....@@", but i need to clearify something first, it can light up the area of a circle with 4 METER "Radius" not "Diameter"....
My af assist lamp^^ , it is made by 4 green color ultra bright LED
with effective area 4M diameter.





Welcome for comment
--
With an effective area of 4M diameter, what is the gain over the
default 2M camera setting ?

Happy shooting

Mike Chinnock
Sanyo VPC-250, VPC-350X; HP C912; Fuji S602
Sunpak 611; Kenko VC-200 HI
 
Sony's cameras use a hologram to create a crosshatch type pattern on the area being illuminated. Most of the cheap, toy type laser pointers come with a bunch of little holograms that screw onto the end of the thing to project silly pictures or phrases. I bet that one of these would do the trick...

MR
 

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