S2 panorama

Hi BJN,

Great image! what software do you use in doing this kind of stitching? As I'm really interested.

Ben
Stitched from 8 S2 images, 18-35 Nikkor at 35mm:



The image shows the Green River near Canonlands National Park,
Utah. The river bend is at Mineral Bottom taken at dawn last
weekend.

--
BJN
 
Nice job BJN,

Very nice panorama, now if you can just find some 13" x 88" paper to print it on! Great shots.

Regards,

Mark
 
Stitched from 8 S2 images, 18-35 Nikkor at 35mm:



The image shows the Green River near Canonlands National Park,
Utah. The river bend is at Mineral Bottom taken at dawn last
weekend.

--
BJN
--

Change is the paint brush of time and our lives are the canvas which its strokes are cast upon.

Thanks!
Mark
 
Hi BJN,

Great image! what software do you use in doing this kind of
stitching? As I'm really interested.

Ben
Hi Ben,

I use Max Lyon's PTAssembler. It provides a GUI interface for the powerful, but difficult to use Panorama Tools software. PTAssembler generates a layered Photoshop file that allows you to create seamless stitches when you edit the transition edges in Photoshop. This method is more difficult than using some of the dedicated stitching software, but it lets you create the best possible stitched images. Here are some links:

http://www.tawbaware.com/ptasmblr.htm

http://www.tawbaware.com/ptasmblr_tutorial.htm

--
BJN
 
You can, Epson makes 13inch by 32ft. rolls. And the Epson drivers can be configured to print. I have printed an 80" pano on my 1280. In fact most of mine are beyond Epson's 44" theoretical max. and are in the 45-60 inch range. About 4 feet long for my eye at 13" wide is about the right proportion. Much longer is really kind of "skinny' looking. Here is one you can go to in B/W that in the original form after the cropping will print out at 96x13. Since I only had my S2 since first of year this was on film scanned at 4000dpi and is grainy specially after the crop and resize and this web look isn't really a good reresentative of the original at more than 200Mb.It is 11 frames in portrait mode. http://www.s2pro.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=567&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500
Carl
Nice job BJN,

Very nice panorama, now if you can just find some 13" x 88" paper
to print it on! Great shots.

Regards,

Mark
 
Nice panorama, what software did you use?
Stitched from 8 S2 images, 18-35 Nikkor at 35mm:



The image shows the Green River near Canonlands National Park,
Utah. The river bend is at Mineral Bottom taken at dawn last
weekend.

--
BJN
 
Carl, that is so cool. I want to figure out how to do that too. Great something else that will cost me money...long paper rolls.

Thanks for the info.

Mark
Nice job BJN,

Very nice panorama, now if you can just find some 13" x 88" paper
to print it on! Great shots.

Regards,

Mark
 
Hi Mark,

If you need anymore info on a good inexpensive stitching software I have the links. They are as different as night and day. Have tried several and bought 3. And the one that used to be free is still only about $20 and will do multi-row and if the camera is pointed up or down from the horizintal. Most stitchers are single row and have to be level. It is not hard but can be time consuming blending the joints in PS layers but you can't tell the joints when done right...........Carl
Thanks for the info.

Mark
Nice job BJN,

Very nice panorama, now if you can just find some 13" x 88" paper
to print it on! Great shots.

Regards,

Mark
 
Hi Carl,

Thanks I would like to see the links that you have. I have stitch software from my little Canon point and shoot, but it probably has to be horizontal and won't allow much if any adjustment.

Thanks,

Mark
Hi Mark,
If you need anymore info on a good inexpensive stitching software I
have the links. They are as different as night and day. Have tried
several and bought 3. And the one that used to be free is still
only about $20 and will do multi-row and if the camera is pointed
up or down from the horizintal. Most stitchers are single row and
have to be level. It is not hard but can be time consuming blending
the joints in PS layers but you can't tell the joints when done
right...........Carl
 
Hi Mark,



Max Lyons PTAssembler I have used for a year. It is a front end for PanoTools which is still a free download. So this link click on the PTAssember and there it will lead you to tutorials and all you need. It is now $29. Look through his gallery and you will be impressed. This link and the next PTGui are both front ends for the free PanoTools stitcher which alone is next to impossible to use for the common man. Computer genuises excepted. They both let you control the output file. For correcting/blending the joints the output is PhotoShop with Masks.
http://www.tawbaware.com/index.html

This is PTGui and has now been revised. My initial version was $50 and just did install the free update and it is much improved. PTAssembler I am still using Max's free interface that works fine so I don't know about the new pay one. But looking at his site I am sure it is a big improvement too.
http://www.ptgui.com/

These 2 for the money are fantastic. They don't have to be level and do multi row.If you are standing at the edge of a canyon looking some others aren't to good unless an ultra wide lense is used then the scene is a long ways from you.

Here is an automatic one, Panorama Factory. For big complicated lighting scenes I don't like it. It is extremely fast. For evenly lit scenes in level mode it will stitch in hardly any time but doesn't have the control the others do but it is only $35. http://www.panoramafactory.com/

Here is a site that will give you most of the software and ratings plus prices. Some are really expensive. Just more info. PanoGuide
http://www.panoguide.com/

And if you really get serious here is the equipment that will help. You can do a pano hand held. Over water it is easy to use the opposite shoreline as a level and the pic even. Over land if uneven or multi-row it can be done but you will waste much of the pictures to crop it even. Been there done that. Kaidan has the tools. I happen to have their QuickPan III Spherical head. http://www.kaidan.com/products/QPIII.html

I would recommend 1 of the first 2 programs personally. This included pano was done with PTAssembler. and is 9 frames. Original file is over 200Mb. reduced here at only 10 quality (lowest) for web so quality suffers but you get the idea. It printed 13x56 on my 1280 and is gorgeous.

Let me know if any other help is wanted. Carl
http://www.s2pro.com/gallery/showgallery.php?ppuser=674&cat=500&thumb=1
Thanks I would like to see the links that you have. I have stitch
software from my little Canon point and shoot, but it probably has
to be horizontal and won't allow much if any adjustment.

Thanks,

Mark
Hi Mark,
If you need anymore info on a good inexpensive stitching software I
have the links. They are as different as night and day. Have tried
several and bought 3. And the one that used to be free is still
only about $20 and will do multi-row and if the camera is pointed
up or down from the horizintal. Most stitchers are single row and
have to be level. It is not hard but can be time consuming blending
the joints in PS layers but you can't tell the joints when done
right...........Carl
 
Hi Carl,

Thank you so much for all the links. I really appreciate the time you took typing all that. I will check them out and then I will have to find a place that is Panorama worthy.

Regards,

Mark
 
Hi, Mark,

No need to wait for the perfect scene. You will want to practice the technique first before that big scene. Read up on how to average the light, lock the exposure to manual and set WB to other than AUTO and go. Just stitch 2-3 exposures at first to get the feel. Then get and use the shareware for the trial period at no charge and if you like it you can register and pay for the software.

I don't know where you are at but you can make an interesting one any where for practice. Near a golf course, lots of geen. Entrance to a country club, park (entire park left to right), Football, baseball compliete stadium encompassed, farmers field anything with a FOV greater than your lens. I would use actual field of view from the S2 at about 20-35mm for 30-53mm actual. Keep the camera level, rotate, and overlap about 15-20 degrees and snap. Just pic any scene. If hand held try to have foreground a ways away as you are not pivoting the camera at the NODAL point it is harder to align things in forground between the frames. Don't have tree limbs 3 ft in front.

Just go do it. Really is fun. I was past 60 yrs old and I learned with the links I gave you and doing it. So I know if I can, anyone can.
Happy stitching,.......................Carl
Hi Carl,

Thank you so much for all the links. I really appreciate the time
you took typing all that. I will check them out and then I will
have to find a place that is Panorama worthy.

Regards,

Mark
 

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