I would agree, but my tests suggest otherwise; 10D, D60 side-by-side, same light, same lens, same aperture, same subject. Results 24-85 front focuses on the 10D not on the D60.
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Scientific Inconsistent Focus with 10D
- Thread starter Michael Leuzinger
- Start date
F
FUCK DPREVIEW!!
Guest
Looking at your posting profile, I noticed that you are new here. How much experience do you have with cameras?So far usage with the 70-200 2.8L seems fairly consistent... but
usage with the 50 1.4 is hopelessly inconsistent.
If you think there is something wrong with your camera, don't waste time with "testing", but call Canon and/or return the camera.
Andi
Derek Hawkins
Veteran Member
also have P&S cameras doing better than their 10D when it comes to AF accuracy. It's just that they are reluctant to say so being so very disappointed. Again, this is not a 10D problem only, many D60 and 1D owners have the same problem. I certainly had it with a D60 as well.
Has anyone ever thought about the possibility that these lenses,Okay... I admit it, my head hurts.
being mechanical and being controlled by a motor, will NOT give
reproducable results?
Personally I think AF is just inaccurate if you are trying to get
it down to a small percentage of the total distance to the subject.
There is plenty of "play" - both mechanically and in the sensors.
I'm willing to be proved wrong, but from what I've seen with my 10D
and from all these tests, it would appear that people are wasting
their time trying to get it spot-on.
dd
Mike Leuzinger
Member
Actually... I've been on this forum for well over a year. I simply built a new profile.
Easy for you to say return/send in the camera... but...
a) my local shop doesn't have one to exchange with me
b) I need my camera soon (thus my post asking for real-world estimated repair turnaround times
c) some have reported getting their cameras back without them being fixed
d) some have reported getting their cameras back with scratches, severe internal dust, and other problems
I've put several thousands of exposures on my D30... and have borrowed a 1D for awhile as well. I don't expect the 10D to equal the 1D, but expect it to at least be near the same level as the D30. ;-)
Easy for you to say return/send in the camera... but...
a) my local shop doesn't have one to exchange with me
b) I need my camera soon (thus my post asking for real-world estimated repair turnaround times
c) some have reported getting their cameras back without them being fixed
d) some have reported getting their cameras back with scratches, severe internal dust, and other problems
I've put several thousands of exposures on my D30... and have borrowed a 1D for awhile as well. I don't expect the 10D to equal the 1D, but expect it to at least be near the same level as the D30. ;-)
Looking at your posting profile, I noticed that you are new here.So far usage with the 70-200 2.8L seems fairly consistent... but
usage with the 50 1.4 is hopelessly inconsistent.
How much experience do you have with cameras?
If you think there is something wrong with your camera, don't waste
time with "testing", but call Canon and/or return the camera.
Andi
Mike Leuzinger
Member
There is a night and day difference between my D30 and 10D. Faces are in focus with the D30 and NOT in focus with the 10D.
Should people EXPECT out of focus faces with a 3rd generation $1500 camera?
Anyhoo... I'll post some examples when I get back home. ;-)
Should people EXPECT out of focus faces with a 3rd generation $1500 camera?
Anyhoo... I'll post some examples when I get back home. ;-)
Has anyone ever thought about the possibility that these lenses,Okay... I admit it, my head hurts.
being mechanical and being controlled by a motor, will NOT give
reproducable results?
Personally I think AF is just inaccurate if you are trying to get
it down to a small percentage of the total distance to the subject.
There is plenty of "play" - both mechanically and in the sensors.
I'm willing to be proved wrong, but from what I've seen with my 10D
and from all these tests, it would appear that people are wasting
their time trying to get it spot-on.
dd
But there are plenty of 10D owners here that say their copy IS "spot on" with every frame from day one. I think there are good ones and bad ones just like lenses.
Has anyone ever thought about the possibility that these lenses,Okay... I admit it, my head hurts.
being mechanical and being controlled by a motor, will NOT give
reproducable results?
Personally I think AF is just inaccurate if you are trying to get
it down to a small percentage of the total distance to the subject.
There is plenty of "play" - both mechanically and in the sensors.
I'm willing to be proved wrong, but from what I've seen with my 10D
and from all these tests, it would appear that people are wasting
their time trying to get it spot-on.
dd
Yep. My G1 wide open is sharper than anything I've gotten out of the 10D stopped down with a 24-70L.also have P&S cameras doing better than their 10D when it comes to
AF accuracy. It's just that they are reluctant to say so being so
very disappointed. Again, this is not a 10D problem only, many D60
and 1D owners have the same problem. I certainly had it with a D60
as well.
Has anyone ever thought about the possibility that these lenses,Okay... I admit it, my head hurts.
being mechanical and being controlled by a motor, will NOT give
reproducable results?
Personally I think AF is just inaccurate if you are trying to get
it down to a small percentage of the total distance to the subject.
There is plenty of "play" - both mechanically and in the sensors.
I'm willing to be proved wrong, but from what I've seen with my 10D
and from all these tests, it would appear that people are wasting
their time trying to get it spot-on.
dd
Nathan Dandar
Leading Member
Do you happen to have that procedure available online somewhere or would you be able to describe to me how it works? I'd be curious about my own camera.
Michael Leuzinger
Well-known member
Correction... I just checked my profile. I've been here since July of 2000! Wow... time flies!!! ;-)
Easy for you to say return/send in the camera... but...
a) my local shop doesn't have one to exchange with me
b) I need my camera soon (thus my post asking for real-world
estimated repair turnaround times
c) some have reported getting their cameras back without them being
fixed
d) some have reported getting their cameras back with scratches,
severe internal dust, and other problems
I've put several thousands of exposures on my D30... and have
borrowed a 1D for awhile as well. I don't expect the 10D to equal
the 1D, but expect it to at least be near the same level as the
D30. ;-)
Looking at your posting profile, I noticed that you are new here.So far usage with the 70-200 2.8L seems fairly consistent... but
usage with the 50 1.4 is hopelessly inconsistent.
How much experience do you have with cameras?
If you think there is something wrong with your camera, don't waste
time with "testing", but call Canon and/or return the camera.
Andi
Leon Wittwer
Veteran Member
The G1 will have a much larger depth of field given other things the same. This makes the autofocus rather more forgiving. Leon
Derek Hawkins wrote:
Yep. My G1 wide open is sharper than anything I've gotten out of
the 10D stopped down with a 24-70L.
fred frang
Active member
Sure could use a split-prism focusing aid right about now....
Hi Leon,
I'm aware that the G1 has a larger depth of field but the G1 wide open is sharper than my 10D stopped down. Wouldn't that bring the two close as far as DOF goes? I really think there is something wrong with my 10D. I'm sending it back.
Thanks.
Ted
I'm aware that the G1 has a larger depth of field but the G1 wide open is sharper than my 10D stopped down. Wouldn't that bring the two close as far as DOF goes? I really think there is something wrong with my 10D. I'm sending it back.
Thanks.
Ted
Derek Hawkins wrote:
Yep. My G1 wide open is sharper than anything I've gotten out of
the 10D stopped down with a 24-70L.
Zero
Leading Member
It is possible the point of AF is not exactly where the red square is. ie the focual screen is slightly misaligned. Ask the service centre to check the placement of the focus screen.
ie if you tried a test with wider objects (ie boxes rather than markers) it might give better results. But that is just altering a test to get the results you want. It is best to get fixed if there is a problem. BTW did you use a tripod to eliminate any inadvertent hand shifting?
Zero my hero
ie if you tried a test with wider objects (ie boxes rather than markers) it might give better results. But that is just altering a test to get the results you want. It is best to get fixed if there is a problem. BTW did you use a tripod to eliminate any inadvertent hand shifting?
--But I can live with back focusing... after all, that's a clear cut
case of sending the camera in for repair. What is driving me nuts
is that it only does this some of the time even in controlled tests
(possibly due to the lighting temp as mentioned by someone ealier
in this thread)... we'll see.
Max.
Yes, I have it set to only use the center focusing point and set to
One Time AF.
You could be on to something with the viewfinder not being aligned,
but if that's the case, it must be fairly way off. I've tried
different tests with the diagonal pieces close and far from each
other and it's the same result. Also, it back focuses even if the
only other objects are vertical (higher) OR horizontal (to the
right), so it would have to be out of alignment fairly
significantly to the upper right.
I'll try the tests again with the farther objects to the left and
bottom which should verify if it's a focusing screen alignment
issue.
This is probably a stupid question, but are you using one focus
point? Surely you're not letting the camera choose what to focus
on.
It is possible that the focus sensor and the little square(s) in
the viewfinder are not 100% perfectly sized/aligned. My D30 used
to focus "around" the focus point, especially if I was shooting
into, say, a tree with a lot of twigs at different distances.
I use the center focus point only, and reframe after locking focus.
FWIW, all my 10D images are coming out perfectly focused.
-Noel
Zero my hero
I had basically the same result. I tested the canon 80-200 2.8 on bright sun light, and it was front focusing, then I would put it on my tripod to test it in my studio's floresent ligth, and it came out fine.....not good.Okay... I admit it, my head hurts.
I've done two fairly well-controlled front/back focus tests with
the 10D and the 50/1.4.
Did the first test at work today. Set up 4 dry erase markers (with
crisp markings) on a table in a diagonal stagger. Took many shots
with many settings. In EVERY case, the marker BEHIND the one I was
aiming at was the one in focus.
Then I came home, and decided to try the same test with the 10D and
50/1.4, 70-200 2.8L, and Sigma 15-30, AND all 3 lenses with the
D30. Well guess what... now ALL of them focused accurately. Now
even the 10D and 50/1.4 combo focused just fine. The only
difference was the lighting. To make things worse, the lighting was
better (brighter) at work.
So, same equipment, same day, same test... and there was serious
back focusing in brighter light but accurate focus in dimmer light.
I would rather it would always back focus so I would know to send
it to Irvine. But now what? Can anyone explain what might be going
on here?
Further, I sent my D30, and 70-200 usm in for critical focusing test, and it came back still not focussed. I will have to send Canon my test samples to show how well the lens is not working with the D30 and 10D. BTW, thanks for sharing your story.
Best,
Sonny T Senser
http://www.sonnyphoto.com
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