Alien Bees... Why Bother!?!

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OK... Now that I have got your attention, I have no issues with the above mentioned product, I merely wanted to start a debait as to why a photographer needs to invest in such expensive equipment (I do realise that alien bees are at the cheaper end of the pro-lighting spectrum).

Why not buy a couple of PC syncable Vivitar 285HV flashes (for around $80 each) pick up a couple of light stands for around $20 each, and a couple of umbrellas for around $20 each). (All from http://www.BHPhoto.com )

So, for a total of around $240 you can get TWO complete umbrella flashes for the price of less than the cheapest 1 flash kit from Alien Bees... Oh yeah, and you could also use these as on-flash cameras when you're on the move...

Ok.. so here's the thing, I am far from an expert in this field so could someone possibly fill me in on the technical limitations of goind down this path?

Cheers,

Jon.
 
Power,

I don't think the 285s have the same power. And the studio flash can fire away all night long, where the 285s would need power connected.
Triggers have to be rigged and so on.

You just get what you paid for, pretty much.
OK... Now that I have got your attention, I have no issues with the
above mentioned product, I merely wanted to start a debait as to
why a photographer needs to invest in such expensive equipment (I
do realise that alien bees are at the cheaper end of the
pro-lighting spectrum).

Why not buy a couple of PC syncable Vivitar 285HV flashes (for
around $80 each) pick up a couple of light stands for around $20
each, and a couple of umbrellas for around $20 each). (All from
http://www.BHPhoto.com )

So, for a total of around $240 you can get TWO complete umbrella
flashes for the price of less than the cheapest 1 flash kit from
Alien Bees... Oh yeah, and you could also use these as on-flash
cameras when you're on the move...

Ok.. so here's the thing, I am far from an expert in this field so
could someone possibly fill me in on the technical limitations of
goind down this path?

Cheers,

Jon.
--
Hoang Nguyen
http://www.onemodelplace.com/photographer_list.cfm?P_ID=6257
 
Why not buy a couple of PC syncable Vivitar 285HV flashes (for
around $80 each) pick up a couple of light stands for around $20
each, and a couple of umbrellas for around $20 each). (All from
http://www.BHPhoto.com )
Two basic reasons.

Without a modeling light, you can't see where your shadows will be, or where your hot-spots might be, or what glare you may have, or whether one subject is casting a shadow on another, or...

Total power. While shooting small cameras (35mm, consumer digital), the need for extremely small apertures isn't that great, but when using larger cameras (medium format or large format), f/22 through f/64 aren't just numbers; they're settings that are necessary to achieve some results.

Similarly, when shooting a group of people (10 or more, say), the light will need to be much further back than to light a small group, to avoid fall-off issues. That, coupled with the need for more depth of field to keep them all sharp means there's a need for more power.

Now, I'm NOT a professional at this, and I don't carry my studio lights with me wherever I go--I carry a Sunpak 544 and a Sunpak 1600--there are times when the precision of the studio lights is highly beneficial. If my job depended on it, it'd be critical.
 
Why not buy a couple of PC syncable Vivitar 285HV flashes (for
around $80 each) pick up a couple of light stands for around $20
each, and a couple of umbrellas for around $20 each). (All from
http://www.BHPhoto.com )
Two basic reasons.

Without a modeling light, you can't see where your shadows will be,
or where your hot-spots might be, or what glare you may have, or
whether one subject is casting a shadow on another, or...

Total power. While shooting small cameras (35mm, consumer digital),
the need for extremely small apertures isn't that great, but when
using larger cameras (medium format or large format), f/22 through
f/64 aren't just numbers; they're settings that are necessary to
achieve some results.

Similarly, when shooting a group of people (10 or more, say), the
light will need to be much further back than to light a small
group, to avoid fall-off issues. That, coupled with the need for
more depth of field to keep them all sharp means there's a need for
more power.

Now, I'm NOT a professional at this, and I don't carry my studio
lights with me wherever I go--I carry a Sunpak 544 and a Sunpak
1600--there are times when the precision of the studio lights is
highly beneficial. If my job depended on it, it'd be critical.
 
1) Sheer Power.
2) Consistency exposure (you shoot with one flash in mid-recycle).
3) Recycle time.
4) No batteries (there are a number of advantages here).

That said, I do have 2 285HV with peanuts. I also have two Canon E-TTL flashes (which have built in remote). Nicely portable. Very usable.

I think the system you have proposed is a very inexpensive way to learn as well as a versatile tool.
OK... Now that I have got your attention, I have no issues with the
above mentioned product, I merely wanted to start a debait as to
why a photographer needs to invest in such expensive equipment (I
do realise that alien bees are at the cheaper end of the
pro-lighting spectrum).

Why not buy a couple of PC syncable Vivitar 285HV flashes (for
around $80 each) pick up a couple of light stands for around $20
each, and a couple of umbrellas for around $20 each). (All from
http://www.BHPhoto.com )

So, for a total of around $240 you can get TWO complete umbrella
flashes for the price of less than the cheapest 1 flash kit from
Alien Bees... Oh yeah, and you could also use these as on-flash
cameras when you're on the move...

Ok.. so here's the thing, I am far from an expert in this field so
could someone possibly fill me in on the technical limitations of
goind down this path?

Cheers,

Jon.
 
I have the equipment you describe, which was in fact purchased from B&H. Equipped with AC adapters and a Wien Peanut slave trigger a pair of 285HVs do an OK job of lighting on a limited budget / occasional use / portable basis. See http://super.nova.org/PhotoGallery for some examples.

The drawbacks vs. professional lighting such as the Bees are: a lack of modelling light, limited power, and longer recycle times (up to 10 sec. on full power with the AC adpaters. 4 sec, with NiCads / NiMH).

The lack of a modelling light for the 285HV can remedied with by using a small worklight with an in-line dimmer on the cord.

I'm in no way suggesting this set-up is as good as a Alien Bee rig. On the contrary, I would suggest that a single AB unit plus a reflectors would be a better scenario for someone wanting studio lighting on a limited budget, adding additional lights as budget allows.

Chuck Gardner
OK... Now that I have got your attention, I have no issues with the
above mentioned product, I merely wanted to start a debait as to
why a photographer needs to invest in such expensive equipment (I
do realise that alien bees are at the cheaper end of the
pro-lighting spectrum).

Why not buy a couple of PC syncable Vivitar 285HV flashes (for
around $80 each) pick up a couple of light stands for around $20
each, and a couple of umbrellas for around $20 each). (All from
http://www.BHPhoto.com )

So, for a total of around $240 you can get TWO complete umbrella
flashes for the price of less than the cheapest 1 flash kit from
Alien Bees... Oh yeah, and you could also use these as on-flash
cameras when you're on the move...

Ok.. so here's the thing, I am far from an expert in this field so
could someone possibly fill me in on the technical limitations of
goind down this path?

Cheers,

Jon.
 
Jonathan,

I got 3 Vivitar 285hv's, a three pack of Wein Peanuts ($45@BH, which is cheaper than buying two!), a stroboframe and 2 umbrellas for on site shooting, where modeling lights are harder to read or where one does not have the time or space to shoot more controlled lighting situation.

The thing that bugs me and some of my sitters is the high pitch whining of the Vivitar 285. It has a high pitch whine when charging. This I would not mind cause it would be end in 5-10 seconds.

But after it charges, it continues whining and beeping about once a second. One can hear this whining-beep across the room. This I fnd annoying with just one unit, but to have three of them...!!!

I have a Sunpak 511 potato masher, which stops whining when charged (more accurately, one has to hold it to one's ear to hear it).

Minor gripe: With both units switching power settings is awkward. The Sunpak has a flat dial. The Vivitar has a ring that is almost flush with its collar and one has to also hit the detents for each setting.

Can the forum recommend a quieter flash system and that is easy to adjust?

Thanks,
Lincoln

=========
OK... Now that I have got your attention, I have no issues with the
above mentioned product, I merely wanted to start a debait as to
why a photographer needs to invest in such expensive equipment (I
do realise that alien bees are at the cheaper end of the
pro-lighting spectrum).

Why not buy a couple of PC syncable Vivitar 285HV flashes (for
around $80 each) pick up a couple of light stands for around $20
each, and a couple of umbrellas for around $20 each). (All from
http://www.BHPhoto.com )

So, for a total of around $240 you can get TWO complete umbrella
flashes for the price of less than the cheapest 1 flash kit from
Alien Bees... Oh yeah, and you could also use these as on-flash
cameras when you're on the move...

Ok.. so here's the thing, I am far from an expert in this field so
could someone possibly fill me in on the technical limitations of
goind down this path?

Cheers,

Jon.
 
I will first admit freely that I do not have a great deal of experience with studio lighting.

Having said that, I recently, (last week) got one AB B400. This thing FAR exceeded my expectations. I've only had time to do maybe 100 testing shots with it so far, been busy with other stuff. It's fantastic. I haven't owned another strobe before, so my only comparison is my Promaster 5750dx, which I was bouncing off of a white wall and ceiling, and it did deliver a good diffuse light. I'm sure that when shot through a shoot-thru umbrella, it would do even better.

However, it, just as any other "flash" or even cheaper strobes like briteks which are only full power/half/1/4 power are fairly uncontrollable. You would have to get your key light right, by either/or changing/comprimising your fstop, then physically move the other lights, umbrellas to get the exposure you desire. The bees have a totally variable power slider. You can set your fstop to what you want, then adjust the power accordingly.

In addition, the bee has a really nice, broad, diffuse pattern. I was expecting alot, the single B400 I bought surpassed my expectations.

I just got the thing the other day. The shot below is a quick test shot I made of my daughter, using the one alien bee b400 through a shoot-thru umbrella and one home-made reflector.

In addition, their price point and customer satisfaction is off the map: I liked it so much that I decided to get a second one, and an octabox. When ordering, she asked if I wanted it in green to match my first one. I replied that actually, I've considered possibly trying to eventually shoot some for pay one day, and wished I had gotten my first one in black. No problem she says, you just got it last week. I'll send you a black one to SWAP. That's my kind of company.

As I said, I haven't had time to use it a whole bunch yet, mostly moving it around, trying diff angles etc, and snapping myself (but I am not gonna post a pic of my ugly mug rofl). My daughter was playing in my wife's sweater and was interested in what I was doing. I got her to sit down for a half dozen or so shots, and I guess this was the best of them. This was made with one Alien Bee B400, one small foamcore reflector, with a Sony f707. Unretouched or color balanced etc, just cropped. I guess it did ok:



Art
--
Sony f717, Alien Bees B400, Promaster 5750dx
Great minds think alike.
Greater minds think uniquely and share their ideas.
http://www.Autorifix.com
http://www.BumperFillers.com
http://SportBikeBodyWork.com
 
If thats your first studio strobe shot you are going to do well with studio lighting. Paul Buff is a great company I have several of their white lighting units.
 
Unless you are doing the simplest of set-ups (eg. bounced into umbrellas) the major advantage of a full professional level lighting system is the great variety of light shaping modifers that will be available to you. Grids, snoots, optical spots, pan reflectors, bare bulb configuration, globes or lanterns, variety of soft boxes, strip lights, fresnel spot etc. When you may get called to do anything at any moment you need to have the widest variety of options possible.

Other advantages; total power output, compatibility with rental equipment, modelling light to preview shot (although I just use modelling lights to aim the light and as a limited focussing aid, digital or hard copy polaroids are truer preview for multi-light set-ups in my opinion) convenience in ratioing lights, built in sync capabilities.

Doug B
Torontowide.com
 
If thats your first studio strobe shot you are going to do well
with studio lighting. Paul Buff is a great company I have several
of their white lighting units.
I've enjoyed taking photos for many years, just as a hobbyist, in many different genres. The thing that has always interested me most, I suppose because it seems the most difficult, is photographing people. I finally broke down and bought a bee, and I have another on the way with an octabox. It would be a dream for me to become proficient enough that I would have the confidence to try starting up a little portrait studio.

Thanks so much for your comment; and any critiquing on this and future posts when I can make some would be most appreciated!

Art

--
Sony f717, Alien Bees B400, Promaster 5750dx
Great minds think alike.
Greater minds think uniquely and share their ideas.
http://www.Autorifix.com
http://www.BumperFillers.com
http://SportBikeBodyWork.com
 
Worklights for modelling lights. I have the 285HV too, and will have to try this!
The drawbacks vs. professional lighting such as the Bees are: a
lack of modelling light, limited power, and longer recycle times
(up to 10 sec. on full power with the AC adpaters. 4 sec, with
NiCads / NiMH).

The lack of a modelling light for the 285HV can remedied with by
using a small worklight with an in-line dimmer on the cord.

I'm in no way suggesting this set-up is as good as a Alien Bee rig.
On the contrary, I would suggest that a single AB unit plus a
reflectors would be a better scenario for someone wanting studio
lighting on a limited budget, adding additional lights as budget
allows.

Chuck Gardner
OK... Now that I have got your attention, I have no issues with the
above mentioned product, I merely wanted to start a debait as to
why a photographer needs to invest in such expensive equipment (I
do realise that alien bees are at the cheaper end of the
pro-lighting spectrum).

Why not buy a couple of PC syncable Vivitar 285HV flashes (for
around $80 each) pick up a couple of light stands for around $20
each, and a couple of umbrellas for around $20 each). (All from
http://www.BHPhoto.com )

So, for a total of around $240 you can get TWO complete umbrella
flashes for the price of less than the cheapest 1 flash kit from
Alien Bees... Oh yeah, and you could also use these as on-flash
cameras when you're on the move...

Ok.. so here's the thing, I am far from an expert in this field so
could someone possibly fill me in on the technical limitations of
goind down this path?

Cheers,

Jon.
--
  • Jared -
DSC-F707
 
OK... Now that I have got your attention, I have no issues with the
above mentioned product, I merely wanted to start a debait as to
why a photographer needs to invest in such expensive equipment (I
do realise that alien bees are at the cheaper end of the
pro-lighting spectrum).

Why not buy a couple of PC syncable Vivitar 285HV flashes (for
around $80 each) pick up a couple of light stands for around $20
each, and a couple of umbrellas for around $20 each). (All from
http://www.BHPhoto.com )

So, for a total of around $240 you can get TWO complete umbrella
flashes for the price of less than the cheapest 1 flash kit from
Alien Bees... Oh yeah, and you could also use these as on-flash
cameras when you're on the move...

Ok.. so here's the thing, I am far from an expert in this field so
could someone possibly fill me in on the technical limitations of
goind down this path?

Cheers,

Jon.
I have three 285s, two 45" Bosch umbrellas, and various stands. Got the 285s used, so this is a budget system. It works rather well for what it is, but I'm sure that it's no contest compared to a well-equipped studio setup. That said, it makes a great portable studio that sets up in minutes and fits into one 36" x 14" padded duffel bag.

The comments from the other posters in this thread articulate well the other advantages of using decent monolights. If a cheap setup is what you are after, my limited experience with portable flashes has been encouraging so far. However, I greatly miss having modeling lights and barn doors. It's always a guess to get the shadows and light ratios the way I want them. Fortunately, with digital I can preview to get an idea of what's coming, but it isn't the same as having a good lighting system and it requires some patience from the subjects, which isn't always in their nature.
-Gene L.
--
My pbase galleries: http://www.pbase.com/genel
 
I will first admit freely that I do not have a great deal of
experience with studio lighting.

Having said that, I recently, (last week) got one AB B400. This
thing FAR exceeded my expectations. I've only had time to do maybe
100 testing shots with it so far, been busy with other stuff. It's
fantastic. I haven't owned another strobe before, so my only
comparison is my Promaster 5750dx, which I was bouncing off of a
white wall and ceiling, and it did deliver a good diffuse light.
I'm sure that when shot through a shoot-thru umbrella, it would do
even better.

However, it, just as any other "flash" or even cheaper strobes like
briteks which are only full power/half/1/4 power are fairly
uncontrollable. You would have to get your key light right, by
either/or changing/comprimising your fstop, then physically move
the other lights, umbrellas to get the exposure you desire. The
bees have a totally variable power slider. You can set your fstop
to what you want, then adjust the power accordingly.

In addition, the bee has a really nice, broad, diffuse pattern. I
was expecting alot, the single B400 I bought surpassed my
expectations.

I just got the thing the other day. The shot below is a quick test
shot I made of my daughter, using the one alien bee b400 through a
shoot-thru umbrella and one home-made reflector.

In addition, their price point and customer satisfaction is off the
map: I liked it so much that I decided to get a second one, and an
octabox. When ordering, she asked if I wanted it in green to match
my first one. I replied that actually, I've considered possibly
trying to eventually shoot some for pay one day, and wished I had
gotten my first one in black. No problem she says, you just got it
last week. I'll send you a black one to SWAP. That's my kind of
company.

As I said, I haven't had time to use it a whole bunch yet, mostly
moving it around, trying diff angles etc, and snapping myself (but
I am not gonna post a pic of my ugly mug rofl). My daughter was
playing in my wife's sweater and was interested in what I was
doing. I got her to sit down for a half dozen or so shots, and I
guess this was the best of them. This was made with one Alien Bee
B400, one small foamcore reflector, with a Sony f707. Unretouched
or color balanced etc, just cropped. I guess it did ok:
No, Art, I'd say YOU did OK! Nice job.

Peter


Art
--
Sony f717, Alien Bees B400, Promaster 5750dx
Great minds think alike.
Greater minds think uniquely and share their ideas.
http://www.Autorifix.com
http://www.BumperFillers.com
http://SportBikeBodyWork.com
 
Aren't you really asking why do my portraits always look like they were done in cave?
OK... Now that I have got your attention, I have no issues with the
above mentioned product, I merely wanted to start a debait as to
why a photographer needs to invest in such expensive equipment (I
do realise that alien bees are at the cheaper end of the
pro-lighting spectrum).

Why not buy a couple of PC syncable Vivitar 285HV flashes (for
around $80 each) pick up a couple of light stands for around $20
each, and a couple of umbrellas for around $20 each). (All from
http://www.BHPhoto.com )

So, for a total of around $240 you can get TWO complete umbrella
flashes for the price of less than the cheapest 1 flash kit from
Alien Bees... Oh yeah, and you could also use these as on-flash
cameras when you're on the move...

Ok.. so here's the thing, I am far from an expert in this field so
could someone possibly fill me in on the technical limitations of
goind down this path?

Cheers,

Jon.
 
Thankyou everyone for your comments thus far. I am a bit supprised however at the attitutes some have taken at my post. I in now way was trying to talk down the importance of having good studio light.

Rather, what I was trying to highlight is that if anyone is in a position like myself where they do not currently have the means to shell out thousands of dollars (which equates to even more in Australian dollars) for basic studio lighting.

The main limitations that keep on coming up are:
  • lack of Modelling lights (which can be overcome by using a spot light set up to bounce of the umbrella as well)
  • Batery power (some flashes can be attached to mains); and
  • Recycle time... well I'm affraid you would just have to live with the slow recycle times.
However, noone has been able to convince me thus far, that for a very economical lighting solution, this is not a bad idea.

As for dizdealz.com comment... Get a life, if you don't want to give CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICSM don't give any criticsm at all...

Thanks once again for everyone's thoughts.

Cheers,

Jon.
OK... Now that I have got your attention, I have no issues with the
above mentioned product, I merely wanted to start a debait as to
why a photographer needs to invest in such expensive equipment (I
do realise that alien bees are at the cheaper end of the
pro-lighting spectrum).

Why not buy a couple of PC syncable Vivitar 285HV flashes (for
around $80 each) pick up a couple of light stands for around $20
each, and a couple of umbrellas for around $20 each). (All from
http://www.BHPhoto.com )

So, for a total of around $240 you can get TWO complete umbrella
flashes for the price of less than the cheapest 1 flash kit from
Alien Bees... Oh yeah, and you could also use these as on-flash
cameras when you're on the move...

Ok.. so here's the thing, I am far from an expert in this field so
could someone possibly fill me in on the technical limitations of
goind down this path?

Cheers,

Jon.
 
Wonderful portrait!

Now I want to get my Alien Bees B400! You'll have to let me know how the F717 compares with the F707.
I will first admit freely that I do not have a great deal of
experience with studio lighting.

Having said that, I recently, (last week) got one AB B400. This
thing FAR exceeded my expectations. I've only had time to do maybe
100 testing shots with it so far, been busy with other stuff. It's
fantastic. I haven't owned another strobe before, so my only
comparison is my Promaster 5750dx, which I was bouncing off of a
white wall and ceiling, and it did deliver a good diffuse light.
I'm sure that when shot through a shoot-thru umbrella, it would do
even better.

However, it, just as any other "flash" or even cheaper strobes like
briteks which are only full power/half/1/4 power are fairly
uncontrollable. You would have to get your key light right, by
either/or changing/comprimising your fstop, then physically move
the other lights, umbrellas to get the exposure you desire. The
bees have a totally variable power slider. You can set your fstop
to what you want, then adjust the power accordingly.

In addition, the bee has a really nice, broad, diffuse pattern. I
was expecting alot, the single B400 I bought surpassed my
expectations.

I just got the thing the other day. The shot below is a quick test
shot I made of my daughter, using the one alien bee b400 through a
shoot-thru umbrella and one home-made reflector.

In addition, their price point and customer satisfaction is off the
map: I liked it so much that I decided to get a second one, and an
octabox. When ordering, she asked if I wanted it in green to match
my first one. I replied that actually, I've considered possibly
trying to eventually shoot some for pay one day, and wished I had
gotten my first one in black. No problem she says, you just got it
last week. I'll send you a black one to SWAP. That's my kind of
company.

As I said, I haven't had time to use it a whole bunch yet, mostly
moving it around, trying diff angles etc, and snapping myself (but
I am not gonna post a pic of my ugly mug rofl). My daughter was
playing in my wife's sweater and was interested in what I was
doing. I got her to sit down for a half dozen or so shots, and I
guess this was the best of them. This was made with one Alien Bee
B400, one small foamcore reflector, with a Sony f707. Unretouched
or color balanced etc, just cropped. I guess it did ok:

http://www.sportbikebodywork.com/artjoyce/erinblacksweater1reduced.jpg

Art
--
Sony f717, Alien Bees B400, Promaster 5750dx
Great minds think alike.
Greater minds think uniquely and share their ideas.
http://www.Autorifix.com
http://www.BumperFillers.com
http://SportBikeBodyWork.com
--
  • Jared -
DSC-F707
 
Jon,

The reason for my sarcasm is this,

You don't decide which equipment you are going to buy, until you decide your purpose.

Pro photog's don't buy equipment then try and figure out a use for it.

How many photojournalists lug around battery powered studio packs and strobes?? none is the answer. However, you will notice they all carry very expensive and reliable quantum or metz flash untits. They have to get the shot, and quality of light is a secondary concern. Did you ever look at the photo's in your newspaper. They are not exactly portrait photographers, talk about harsh lighting. But they do a great job getting usable shots, on the move, where most of use would be waiting for the flash to recycle.

My point is, start with the end result and work backwards. If you are going to do portraits, then logically think about where you are going to shoot, and who you are going to shoot.

Wedding photographers rarely use more then just flash and reflectors.

Why?? because they plan ahead, they sit with the client, they know where and when. If they forsee a problem with lighting, they figure out a solution. Sometimes it is an equipment solution, sometimes a film solution Maybe it requires them to talk to the client and propose a different setting.

can you use flash and not buy strobes, yes you can. You can use flashlights.

If you limit your shooting to indoors with nice window lighting, you probably don't need any flash, just some white reflectors.

So my point is, you looking at this the wrong way
Rather, what I was trying to highlight is that if anyone is in a
position like myself where they do not currently have the means to
shell out thousands of dollars (which equates to even more in
Australian dollars) for basic studio lighting.

The main limitations that keep on coming up are:
  • lack of Modelling lights (which can be overcome by using a spot
light set up to bounce of the umbrella as well)
  • Batery power (some flashes can be attached to mains); and
  • Recycle time... well I'm affraid you would just have to live with
the slow recycle times.

However, noone has been able to convince me thus far, that for a
very economical lighting solution, this is not a bad idea.

As for dizdealz.com comment... Get a life, if you don't want to
give CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICSM don't give any criticsm at all...

Thanks once again for everyone's thoughts.

Cheers,

Jon.
OK... Now that I have got your attention, I have no issues with the
above mentioned product, I merely wanted to start a debait as to
why a photographer needs to invest in such expensive equipment (I
do realise that alien bees are at the cheaper end of the
pro-lighting spectrum).

Why not buy a couple of PC syncable Vivitar 285HV flashes (for
around $80 each) pick up a couple of light stands for around $20
each, and a couple of umbrellas for around $20 each). (All from
http://www.BHPhoto.com )

So, for a total of around $240 you can get TWO complete umbrella
flashes for the price of less than the cheapest 1 flash kit from
Alien Bees... Oh yeah, and you could also use these as on-flash
cameras when you're on the move...

Ok.. so here's the thing, I am far from an expert in this field so
could someone possibly fill me in on the technical limitations of
goind down this path?

Cheers,

Jon.
 

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