D10 vs. 100D Macro Ability

doclane

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Firstly, I think this is the best site around and many of you seem to be very enthusiastic about photography. I have read so much about the new D-SLR's and have one question that hopefully can be answered.

I am looking for a D-SLR that will allow me to do close up macro photography at F/60. The Nikon 100D will allow me to use the 105mm lens and be able to override the lens and digitally go to an F/60. I need to do this to be able to get sharp intraoral pictures at a 1:1 aspect. I have read all there is about the Canon D10 and I'm not sure if it is capable of this function. I spoke to a tech at CanonUSA and sales person at a local shop, neither one could confirm that this can be done. Furthermore, the Canon tech told me that he didn't think that the D10 was going to capable considering that the D60 doesn't let the user get to a F/60 and that Canon usually doesn't let the user digitally manipulate images. Maybe I am confused by this, does that make sense?

Anyway, I don't own lenses for either system so I'm not comitted to one or the other. Both cameras are within my price range of ~$3,000 for body and accessories.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I need to purchase a camera within the next month.

-TIA
 
Your question is not a camera question. Its a lens and flash question. I have several dentist friends who use a 105 or 200 mm macro but the other thing you need is a ring strobe to elliminate shaddows. The two cameras would be equal given the same macro lens and light source.
Firstly, I think this is the best site around and many of you seem
to be very enthusiastic about photography. I have read so much
about the new D-SLR's and have one question that hopefully can be
answered.

I am looking for a D-SLR that will allow me to do close up macro
photography at F/60. The Nikon 100D will allow me to use the 105mm
lens and be able to override the lens and digitally go to an F/60.
I need to do this to be able to get sharp intraoral pictures at a
1:1 aspect. I have read all there is about the Canon D10 and I'm
not sure if it is capable of this function. I spoke to a tech at
CanonUSA and sales person at a local shop, neither one could
confirm that this can be done. Furthermore, the Canon tech told me
that he didn't think that the D10 was going to capable considering
that the D60 doesn't let the user get to a F/60 and that Canon
usually doesn't let the user digitally manipulate images. Maybe I
am confused by this, does that make sense?

Anyway, I don't own lenses for either system so I'm not comitted to
one or the other. Both cameras are within my price range of
~$3,000 for body and accessories.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I need to purchase a camera
within the next month.

-TIA
--
Ken Eis
 
Your question is not a camera question. Its a lens and flash
question. I have several dentist friends who use a 105 or 200 mm
macro but the other thing you need is a ring strobe to elliminate
shaddows. The two cameras would be equal given the same macro lens
and light source.
Not quite true. Let's leave out the lens issue because you can argue 50mm canon vs 60 nikon vs Caon 65mm etc, etc.

The ring flash is the big issue. The Canon ring flash will do TTL and the Nikon won't.
 
Firstly, I think this is the best site around and many of you seem
to be very enthusiastic about photography. I have read so much
about the new D-SLR's and have one question that hopefully can be
answered.
[snip]

You know, I think this is one of the few applications where a small-sensor "prosumer" digicam would actually work better than a D-SLR.

Because of the small sensor, the focal lengths are tiny, which leads to tremendous depth of field -- a lot greater than you can achieve with any D-SLR. Since your subject will be staying still (mostly), autofocus speed shouldn't be an issue. The image quality these things can provide within their operating envelope is very, very good, too.

In your shoes I'd take a hard look at the Canon G3 or Fuji S602Z -- both are excellent at macro, and ring flash setups are available for them. You'd be saving a whole bunch of money as well.

Petteri
--
http://www.seittipaja.fi/index/
 
Thanks for the replies. I'm already aware of the ring flash and that is part of my accessory list. I have been using a Nikon coolpix 950 for the past three years, and the shutter speed and reaction time is too slow and most of my images end up blurred. On the rare occasions that I'm able to get a good shot, I still don't have sharpness and depth of field that I really need. I'm currently using Photoshop 7, but the amount of work that I have to do is very time consuming.

Also, since I have gone digital a few years back, I haven't taken my AE-1 out of it's bag. It was given to me by my father and bought it 30 years ago. I took great photos with it, and that's why I want to go D-SLR. Plus I like to do time elapsed night photography and sports photography.

Once again, thanks for your insight.
 
Are you talking about setting the fstop to f80? Well, you more than likely did not "override" the 105mm Nikkor and set it to f80, it can stop down to f80 all by itself (at 1:1).

The reason is as you focus closer, the effective aperture of the lens decreases. So the 105/nikkor set at f32 focused to infinity becomes f80 at 1:1. Now Nikon is the only camera maker I'm aware of that display the effective aperture for their (macro) lenses (normal focus lenses don't focus close enough to change their effective aperture much).

Canon 100mm macro lens will give you comparable DoF @1:1 when you set the lens to f32 (it really is closer to f80). Blame its camera for not telling you the truth!!!

Btw, My 60mm nikkor gets to f64 1:1 even though the smallest fstop marking on the lens is f32.
Firstly, I think this is the best site around and many of you seem
to be very enthusiastic about photography. I have read so much
about the new D-SLR's and have one question that hopefully can be
answered.

I am looking for a D-SLR that will allow me to do close up macro
photography at F/60. The Nikon 100D will allow me to use the 105mm
lens and be able to override the lens and digitally go to an F/60.
I need to do this to be able to get sharp intraoral pictures at a
1:1 aspect. I have read all there is about the Canon D10 and I'm
not sure if it is capable of this function. I spoke to a tech at
CanonUSA and sales person at a local shop, neither one could
confirm that this can be done. Furthermore, the Canon tech told me
that he didn't think that the D10 was going to capable considering
that the D60 doesn't let the user get to a F/60 and that Canon
usually doesn't let the user digitally manipulate images. Maybe I
am confused by this, does that make sense?

Anyway, I don't own lenses for either system so I'm not comitted to
one or the other. Both cameras are within my price range of
~$3,000 for body and accessories.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I need to purchase a camera
within the next month.

-TIA
 
Thanks for the replies. I'm already aware of the ring flash and
that is part of my accessory list. I have been using a Nikon
coolpix 950 for the past three years, and the shutter speed and
reaction time is too slow and most of my images end up blurred. On
the rare occasions that I'm able to get a good shot, I still don't
have sharpness and depth of field that I really need. I'm
currently using Photoshop 7, but the amount of work that I have to
do is very time consuming.

Also, since I have gone digital a few years back, I haven't taken
my AE-1 out of it's bag. It was given to me by my father and
bought it 30 years ago. I took great photos with it, and that's
why I want to go D-SLR. Plus I like to do time elapsed night
photography and sports photography.
Ah, I think I see the real reason you want a D-SLR. Go for it! I wish I could put one in an expenses account somewhere... ;-)

Seriously, there are small-sensor digicams that'd get the job done very well. What you need is manual-focus ability: that'll eliminate the uncertainty about focusing and the shutter lag. As to the DoF, if the small-sensor ones can't give it to you, I very much doubt a D-SLR will, no matter how far you stop it down. At f/64, even if you can stop down that far, for example, you'll be about three stops below f/22, which means that you'll need a humongous strobe to get enough light in, and diffraction effects will be a problem.

Petteri
--
http://www.seittipaja.fi/index/
 
Following on this thread. How does these body work when attched with a bellow and apporpiate Optics. Obviously all link between Optics and Body are gone ( until someone come up with a electronically interlinked Macro bellow with the lens )

I have read from some other threads that when attached with optics ( in this case the bellow & lens ) not designed with the apporpiate electronic link; the bodies will wrongly expose the frame, but having no experience yet on that, I figure I should ask

Franka
 

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