joey_B
Senior Member
a sensible message
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Correct, and fair enough. Perfect Resize does a great deal of sharpening as part of the process (perhaps too much), but I did not want to do any more for fear of comparing "apples" and "oranges". But you make a good point and I will redo the PS enlargement but this time add some additional sharpening. The cost of Perfect Resize is considerable (> $100 US) and I don't want to spend it if I don't have to. Perhaps PS, when sharpened, will be sufficient.But, reading your first post, I get the impression that you don't specifically like the softer PS output, and you are looking for a tool that will give you something more of the PR output. I want to show you how you can get similar results by just using photoshop. Saves you some investment.
There is nothing too complex here. I often find myself taking wildlife photos from further away than I would like and, even with my 100-400, sometimes the image I want is just too small to see well on screen. I currently only crop to 100% (although it seems to me that the 5D3 images can easily be cropped more strongly than that without too much loss of detail) and I just wanted an option to enlarge beyond that in case what I was photographing was not large enough to stand out.Maybe we should also talk a bit about WHY you want to upsize this image. What viewing purpose do you have, from what distance the picture will be viewed ,etc.
Years ago, when I was still teaching (Mathematics) I got interested in Genuine Fractals and bought their software product. Software was still pretty primitive at that time and the idea of using Fractals interested me as a mathematician. Nothing came of it at that time but it was what made me interested in Perfect Resize (since it used to be Genuine Fractals).For whatever it's worth I once spent considerable time comparing Genuine Fractals with PS CS2 bicubic smoother. That was some time ago!
I have little interest in the use of this software for printing since I almost never print any images. All of what I do is intended for computer screen viewing. My wife occasionally prints photos, but I don't.What I discovered then, after many hours of testing, was that there was very little difference between the two for large prints (2' x 3' and larger).
I need to do some comparing of sharpened CS5 (I don't have CS6) enlarged images as compared to other resizing software. The entire rationale here is to allow me to crop out parts of images, generally containing wildlife, to allow for better displayed images. There is no real magic here so I don't expect to get something for nothing, but I was hoping that I might be able to effectively do a 200% crop and have it yield something usable.What I also found out is that I always needed some gentle USM on the bicubic smoother. I found that a gentle .6 pixel width at 100% made a considerable difference - with no halos discernible at 200% viewing. I am not sure why someone with PS CS6 would need a third party resizing software. But that's just my experience.
Fortunately the 5D3 seems to give me the ability to do something like 125-150% crop without any significant loss of detail. I could not do that with my 7D but it seems as though the full-frame images are easier to enlarge.
Very nice. Is that Alien Skin?
Another good reason for upgrading to the 5D3. In addition to better auto-focus, ability to use my 1.4 TC with my 100-400 if I want to (well, probably one and the same with better AF) , dual flash memory slots, much better high ISO performance and much better looking images.Ofcourse they are: the larger the sensor size, the easier to upscale. More detail in the original makes for better upscaling.
amazing how you can turn a duck into a little girl!![]()
If you don't see it doesn't mean it doesn't existsLOL. Yes. I was pretty surprised as well.