My comparasons FF and m4/3 same flowers diffrent lenses

Peter Nelson

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This thread is really for photographers who have never used a FF DSLR but do use m4/3 cameras. Note, that I am using only older manual focus lenses and not modern AF lenses in this comparason. With all the other different subjects in these forums I still think it's ok to compare actrual images from these two different systems. Because I own both I have more choices. That's a good thing!

Some posters in the other thread were asking me to make my own comparasons between my own gear and so this is exactly what I have done. I took more pictures today to compare my own gear Kodak SLR/n FF and m4/3 Olympus E-PL1 + VF-2. I did not use my Canon 1DsMkII with L primes like 85L f/1.2 or 24mm f/1.4 L maybe I should have. But I have been using the 1DsMkII for birding and I prefere the smaller and lighter Kodak for hand held photography. Perhaps I should also have included images taken using my Epson R-D1 digital rangefinder and Nikon D1H DSLR and Canon 50D and Pentax K1000. But that's beyond my original idea of comparing FF and m4/3. All images were taken at the minimum focusing distance.

All were hand held with ISO 160 for the Kodak and ISO 200 for the E-PL1. Please understand that I like both systems and that's why I own and use them both. I am trying to compare FF and m4/3 for some relaxed pictures of the same violet in my wife's garden. I am not trying to win any prize for excellence or enter any photo contests with these images. To do that I would need to make different decisions as to framing and perhaps even moving the flower pots around for a better view and perhaps wait for better lighting. That's called proper preperation. But these images are done in my normal causal methods for my own "fun" and personal photography. I used two cameras only. My Kodak SLR/n and Ai 50mm f/1.4 at f/1.4. Also I used my Olympus E-PL1 with VF-2 and 85mm f/2 Zorki lens, Nikon Ai 24mm f/2.8 and lastly Leica 50mm f/1.4 Summilux at f/1.4.

I will also include the image I posted in my other thread about FF and m4/3. That image was also hand held, base ISO of 160, Tv 1/90 using the same Nikon 50mmn Ai lens but at f/4.

In camera settings are with noise reduction and sharpening both set to off. I did sharpen to taste and also adjust the brightness to taste. BTW my tastes change all the time ;-) I did not do any noise reduction at all. This comparason was not done in an exact scientific method. Just to taste as I feel that's a good representation of my typical methods. I did use the Sunny 16 Rules for exposure with the Kodak, and then I also used the rear LCD for an idea as to what the exposure was like. That's how I use the Kodak normally anyway.

My favorite is still the first image from the other day using the Kodak FF DSLR and Nikon Ai 50mm f/1.4 lens set to f/4. That's because the subject violet is sharp, but still has OOF areas and bokeh and it contains more than just the subject flower in the field of view. I like that style. Maybe you do not.

I am sorry that the images do not all show exactly the same field of view. But all in all I like FF cameras. That kind of testing is what paid photographers do, like here on DPR.

First image is from my Kodak SLR/n using 50mm f/1.4 Ai lens at f/4 from the other thread. Note the conditions were dark and cloudy as a storm was just about to arrive. So the colors are daker:





Next is from today with Kodak SLR/n and 50mm f/1.4 at f/1.4. I overexposed this image when I changed the aperture from f/4 to f/1.4. But someone in the Kodak Talk forum suggested that I expose to the right (highlights anyway. I had to darken this image and I played around a litlle with the colors. You can notice the overexposed parts of the subject violet. I actually do not prefere overexposures, so if I really wanted to I would reshoot this and adjust the Tv because I have opened the Av.:





Next is from today with Olympus E-PL1 using Zorki 85mm f/2 at F/2. The 85mm provides a mold compression and also approx. 170mm field of view.:





Next is from today with Olympus E-PL1 using Nikon Ai 24mm f/2.8 at f/2.8. I do not seem to be able to get a narrow DOF from a 24mm f/2.8 lens on the E-PL1 and that was not a suprise. But I was able to match the field of view of my first image with the Kodak and 50mm prime. That's why I have included it.:





Last from today with Olympus E-PL1 using Leica Summilux first version from 1959 50mm f/1.4 at f/1.4. This has a mild compression effect and a somwhat narrow field of view. The f/1.4 does work but not as much as f/1.5 works on a FF. See the first image.





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OK, now you're getting somewhere. That second shot at f1.4 is what you should have posted at the top of your other thread. Nice creamy bokeh.

That said, the comparison still doesn't work here, because your m43 shots are all from significantly farther back. They need to be from exactly the same position, so the same effective focal length is used. This is precisely what produces the shallowest depth of field: a longer focal length close-focused on something. At those respective distances, I could have gotten my pocket point-and-shoot to have produced shallower depth of field close up than the m43 camera at that greater distance.
 
Since the effective DOF is also a function of the sensor size, I guess we need a larger aperture at the same effective focal length. For example 50/2.8 on FF = 77/1.8 on APSC = 100/1.4 on m4/3

Maybe thats the equation .... If you want razor thin DOF you need bigger glass, larger apertures and longer focal .... but I have noticed bokeh becomes too smooth if you go beyond a focal length!
 
Thanks I appreciate your comments.

All images that I posted here are at each lenses respective Minimum focusing distance. What I am saying is that it would not be possible to bring the front element of each lens any closer to the subject flower and still maintain focus.

For my other thread I actually shot the image with no intention of posting any comments. I was just out shooting and I selected f/4 for the subject flower image sharpness. I was surprised that even at that Av I was getting great seperation of the subject from the remainder of the image. That's why I started the other thread because I was impressed with f/4. That image was also shot at the lenses minimum closest focusing distance.

I remember commenting in the first thread that I could if I needed too, shoot another image of the same subject flower now using f/1.4 with the same camera and lens to illusttrate shallow DOF and creamy bokeh. That is what I have done in this second post - second image.
OK, now you're getting somewhere. That second shot at f1.4 is what you should have posted at the top of your other thread. Nice creamy bokeh.

That said, the comparison still doesn't work here, because your m43 shots are all from significantly farther back. They need to be from exactly the same position, so the same effective focal length is used. This is precisely what produces the shallowest depth of field: a longer focal length close-focused on something. At those respective distances, I could have gotten my pocket point-and-shoot to have produced shallower depth of field close up than the m43 camera at that greater distance.
--
Life as an artist has had some unusual times to say the least.
visit my web site http://www.flickr.com/photos/artist_eyes/
Remember to click on 'All Sizes' for better viewing.
Artist Eyes
 
I agree. My Canon 85mm f/1.2 has both a mild tele compresion on FF and a super wide open aperture of f/1.2. This provides a razor thin DOF at that lens minimum focusing distance of approx. 3 feet and great bokeh. On FF DSLR's the DOF at 3 feet to subject at f/1.2 is around 3mm or 1/4 inch. Many photographers and people viewing a portrait made in this mannor sometimes comment that they think the lens is soft or that the image is missfocused. it's not soft, nrt missfocused. It's the very thin DOF, allowing subject isolation and anything in front of, or behind the DOF is becoming softer and softer. Exactly why I use the Canon 85mm f/1.2L on my Canon 1DsMkII. But, still it may be an aquired taste.

In a side view portrait it's not possible to have both eyes within the DOF. But I like the way I can emphasize the eye that I select to be in focus and the other eye is becoming softer as it lies outside of the DOF.
-Peter
Since the effective DOF is also a function of the sensor size, I guess we need a larger aperture at the same effective focal length. For example 50/2.8 on FF = 77/1.8 on APSC = 100/1.4 on m4/3

Maybe thats the equation .... If you want razor thin DOF you need bigger glass, larger apertures and longer focal .... but I have noticed bokeh becomes too smooth if you go beyond a focal length!
--
Life as an artist has had some unusual times to say the least.
visit my web site http://www.flickr.com/photos/artist_eyes/
Remember to click on 'All Sizes' for better viewing.
Artist Eyes
 
but I took these just now for you.

Olympus E-M5 and Pana Leica 25/1.4 at f/1.4, intentionally processed low contrast:



Same camera and lens, different dogwood flower, this time at f/4:



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http://aminsabet.com
 
Since the effective DOF is also a function of the sensor size, I guess we need a larger aperture at the same effective focal length. For example 50/2.8 on FF = 77/1.8 on APSC = 100/1.4 on m4/3
No, for a given subject distance and angle of view, 50/2.8 on 135 format will produce the same angle of view and DOF as a 25mm f/1.4 lens on 4/3.

For a practical example, look at this: http://www.seriouscompacts.com/f41/bokeh-test-olympus-zd-25mm-f-2-8-vs-canon-ef-50mm-f-1-4-a-161/

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http://aminsabet.com
 
Fabulous shot. This contrast between surfaces of flower petals and waves created by leaf's borders in opposite plane makes it 3dimentional



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I’m surprised how much Wikipedia contributes to the forum.

 
Ooops my example was the other way round .... from a effective focal length 50/2.8 of 135mm = 25/1.4 on MFT = 32/1.8 APS-C ... I multiplied instead of dividing by crop factor .....

Conclusions still hold ... for the same focal length, aperture combo, you will get less creamy bokeh due to the wider DOF.

Say you have a 50/1.4 on 135mm/FF .... you need a 25/0.7 lens on MFT for the same razor thin bokeh which you won't get :) Or consider the Canon 85/1.2 .... you need 43/0.6 on FF or 55/0.75 :)

So if you need razor thin DOF you need bigger formats .... and wider apertures .... thats my simple conclusion
 
And I have something similar...





--
I’m surprised how much Wikipedia contributes to the forum.

 
Interesting shots with the 14N. I was thinking about buying one, prices are very nice on them, but think I'll wait and see what the D600 does to D700 prices. If a clean D700 body shows up for

A 4/3 sensor can do interesting things with shallow DOF, although certainly not with the flexibility of the larger sensor. Personally, I think the subject is way overblown. It's one technique of many, and with some work, one can produce a pleasing effect with M43.

Here's a couple of wildflowers I shot with the EM5 and ZD 50-200. To be fair, these are crops of larger shots, fired handheld at 200mm in a shaded hardwood forest (love that new IBIS) and this doesn't show a wide range of falloff due to to lack of adjacent flora, but both shots were sort of planned that way. You can adjust your thinking to accomodate the characteristics of the sensor and come out with something neat. Doesn't always have to be the 'garbage can in the ghetto as art' shot.



Had to wait until a ray of sunlight coming through the canopy illuminated this one, but that was my impression when I first saw it - a slash of red in the dark green forest.



And finally, a PL25 shot out of my E3 that shows (I think) where too much bokeh might have been bad. DOF just about covers the car, but the background isn't completely blurred the way a FF sensor probably would have done. In this case, I think it's a neat effect, keeps the trees in the subject, in a slightly ethereal way.

 
I'm glad you posted this. I have a Panasonic G1 too, but not the 20mm f/1.7 prime.
And I have something similar...





--
I’m surprised how much Wikipedia contributes to the forum.

--
Life as an artist has had some unusual times to say the least.
visit my web site http://www.flickr.com/photos/artist_eyes/
Remember to click on 'All Sizes' for better viewing.
Artist Eyes
 
These are all very good. Nice colors as well.

I am posting the results of the Kodak SLR/n FF only because I have been shooting moslty with m4/3 for about two years now, but this week when viewing the violet and it's subject isolation with a 50mm Nikon Ai lens at f/4 and minimum focusing distance I came to see that I should be using my Kodak even more. So I'm not really on any kind of campain to champion FF. I am just reminding people that they are rather nice shooters, and for those who have never tried them I hope they see these threads.
-Peter
Interesting shots with the 14N. I was thinking about buying one, prices are very nice on them, but think I'll wait and see what the D600 does to D700 prices. If a clean D700 body shows up for

A 4/3 sensor can do interesting things with shallow DOF, although certainly not with the flexibility of the larger sensor. Personally, I think the subject is way overblown. It's one technique of many, and with some work, one can produce a pleasing effect with M43.

Here's a couple of wildflowers I shot with the EM5 and ZD 50-200. To be fair, these are crops of larger shots, fired handheld at 200mm in a shaded hardwood forest (love that new IBIS) and this doesn't show a wide range of falloff due to to lack of adjacent flora, but both shots were sort of planned that way. You can adjust your thinking to accomodate the characteristics of the sensor and come out with something neat. Doesn't always have to be the 'garbage can in the ghetto as art' shot.



Had to wait until a ray of sunlight coming through the canopy illuminated this one, but that was my impression when I first saw it - a slash of red in the dark green forest.



And finally, a PL25 shot out of my E3 that shows (I think) where too much bokeh might have been bad. DOF just about covers the car, but the background isn't completely blurred the way a FF sensor probably would have done. In this case, I think it's a neat effect, keeps the trees in the subject, in a slightly ethereal way.

--
Life as an artist has had some unusual times to say the least.
visit my web site http://www.flickr.com/photos/artist_eyes/
Remember to click on 'All Sizes' for better viewing.
Artist Eyes
 
which is why I've been looking at prices on the 14/SLRn, 5D, and D700. Be fun to get one and see what it can do.

It's also important to know that just because one doesn't have a FF camera, they shouldn't stop thinking about shallow DOF. The little guys can do it to a degree.
 
That m4/3 can provide shallow DOF, I have seen enough photo's in the last few day's in my two threads that prove this fact.
BTW, can I place an order with you for a few beaver pelts John? ;-)

As a youth I read all the books in my 4th grade class that were about Trapping in the Northern USA and Canada, about 30 books. An unforgettable past world.
-Peter
which is why I've been looking at prices on the 14/SLRn, 5D, and D700. Be fun to get one and see what it can do.

It's also important to know that just because one doesn't have a FF camera, they shouldn't stop thinking about shallow DOF. The little guys can do it to a degree.
--
Life as an artist has had some unusual times to say the least.
visit my web site http://www.flickr.com/photos/artist_eyes/
Remember to click on 'All Sizes' for better viewing.
Artist Eyes
 
...and as you can see the Olympus E-PL1 did not!

Check my OP in this thread. Violet is violet only with the Kodak SLR/n, and it's kind of blue -ish with the Olympus E-PL1.
--
Life as an artist has had some unusual times to say the least.
visit my web site http://www.flickr.com/photos/artist_eyes/
Remember to click on 'All Sizes' for better viewing.
Artist Eyes
 

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