Stars with OM-D

Ahh okay, thanks guys. Yep, my camera was set up like that already. In fact there is a setting of low medium and high (i set to high) for NR.
Do not confuse Noise Reduction with Noise Filter .

Noise Reduction = Auto/On/Off and is the dark frame subtraction. Auto lets it do its thing for 4 second or longer exposures.

Noise Filter = Off/Low/Standard/High (on my E-PL1 so is probably much the same on E-M5). The Noise Filter is the one that smears the detail, it may be of use with high ISO if you can stand the detail loss, I keep it Off for all ISO settings.

Regards........ Guy
 
Oh really ?

I haven't noticed a noise reduction setting then. I'll have another look through the menus, but so far I've only found the noise filter.

And I might try with the noise filter off next time then, see if I get more detail
Ahh okay, thanks guys. Yep, my camera was set up like that already. In fact there is a setting of low medium and high (i set to high) for NR.
Do not confuse Noise Reduction with Noise Filter .

Noise Reduction = Auto/On/Off and is the dark frame subtraction. Auto lets it do its thing for 4 second or longer exposures.

Noise Filter = Off/Low/Standard/High (on my E-PL1 so is probably much the same on E-M5). The Noise Filter is the one that smears the detail, it may be of use with high ISO if you can stand the detail loss, I keep it Off for all ISO settings.

Regards........ Guy
--
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http://500px.com/kiri
http://www.flickr.com/photos/memoki/
Google+: http://plus.ly/kirin
 
Oh really ?

I haven't noticed a noise reduction setting then. I'll have another look through the menus, but so far I've only found the noise filter.

And I might try with the noise filter off next time then, see if I get more detail
Page 89 of the manual, Custom Menu G has Noise Reduction and Noise Filter settings.

Regards......... Guy
 
Thanks Bob, I might try raising the ISO some more, but I suspect I will start getting a lot of noise.. But I'll give it a go.
You're going to have to lay hands on an exposure one way or another. Don't be afraid to apply NR in the process. Even with just a copy of the screen JPG there's something that can be done to make something more of it (one interpretation, a little crude, but it was only a screen capture to work with after all):



Good ideas about the trees/house too. But for the moment, I just want to get the sky as 'clean' as possible, before I start thinking about the rest of the shot.
Sure, I understand.

--
...Bob, NYC
http://www.bobtullis.com

"Well, sometimes the magic works. . . Sometimes, it doesn't." - Little Big Man
.
 
Please excuse my name stamped on your image. It's a default for JPG output exported from LR. I'll delete this image after it's served it's purpose. I just wanted to show you the potential the image holds in the way of finishing it.

--
...Bob, NYC
http://www.bobtullis.com

"Well, sometimes the magic works. . . Sometimes, it doesn't." - Little Big Man
.
 
I really think the OM-D could be a great camera for Astro Photography. The new sequential live view mode sounds great. Also it allows an unlimited duration in “B” mode for long exposures. My GH2 is limited to 2 minutes and 8 seconds.

I have done extensive testing with the GH2 for AP and the dark subtraction long exposure noise reduction really works. With it I can go to about ISO 1250. However, ISO 640 looks much better. Without the dark subtraction even ISO 160 doesn’t look good.

There is one issue though. I get banding of the noise in some of the photos with the dark subtraction noise reduction. It doesn’t look good so I have to be careful how I use it.





















--
GH2, GF1, & ZS3 Sample movies
http://www.youtube.com/user/mpgxsvcd#play/uploads

GH2 Setup Walk through
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uROQbbiiO2I

http://vimeo.com/user442745

GH2 Pictures
http://www.dpreview.com/galleries/4222674355/albums
 
There is one issue though. I get banding of the noise in some of the photos with the dark subtraction noise reduction. It doesn’t look good so I have to be careful how I use it.
FWIW, Dfine has a feature that deals with banding (vert. or horz), if NR and banding is a common issue in one's work.

--
...Bob, NYC
http://www.bobtullis.com

"Well, sometimes the magic works. . . Sometimes, it doesn't." - Little Big Man
.
 
I haven't noticed banding with my GH2 having used both noise reduction on and off.

Even so by stacking and using suitable software you can get rid of it. I have used the in camera NR but you have to wait for the same exposure duration after each frame and I find dark frame subtraction is 'easier' in terms of workflow

Here is an original 60s exposure at 12800@300mm followed by a stack of 13 similar including this one, notice that the plane trails also disappear. These were done with dark frame and bias frame subtraction plus other stuff, I didn't have any light frames but will do so next time I do some stars

I do realise that I should have done these at iso 800 but I was just shooting at 12800 as an experiment hence the graininess. I took them from by back garden which has a good bit of light pollution









Out of curiosity have you any thoughts on hydrogen alpha sensitivity, I think the GH2 is pretty good as some of my orion images came out quite red and I managed to take some images last summer with even an IR850 filter attached. I'll have to hunt out some more Ha targets to test

edit memo to self, turn off predictive text in browser
 
Hi Bob, I like what you've managed to do with this one. May I ask how you went about it? Did you just increase the exposure, or was there something more tricky involved?
Thanks Bob, I might try raising the ISO some more, but I suspect I will start getting a lot of noise.. But I'll give it a go.
You're going to have to lay hands on an exposure one way or another. Don't be afraid to apply NR in the process. Even with just a copy of the screen JPG there's something that can be done to make something more of it (one interpretation, a little crude, but it was only a screen capture to work with after all):



Good ideas about the trees/house too. But for the moment, I just want to get the sky as 'clean' as possible, before I start thinking about the rest of the shot.
Sure, I understand.

--
...Bob, NYC
http://www.bobtullis.com

"Well, sometimes the magic works. . . Sometimes, it doesn't." - Little Big Man
.
--
http://mindboxing.wordpress.com/
http://500px.com/kiri
http://www.flickr.com/photos/memoki/
Google+: http://plus.ly/kirin
 
No worries mate. I appreciate you taking the time.
Please excuse my name stamped on your image. It's a default for JPG output exported from LR. I'll delete this image after it's served it's purpose. I just wanted to show you the potential the image holds in the way of finishing it.

--
...Bob, NYC
http://www.bobtullis.com

"Well, sometimes the magic works. . . Sometimes, it doesn't." - Little Big Man
.
--
http://mindboxing.wordpress.com/
http://500px.com/kiri
http://www.flickr.com/photos/memoki/
Google+: http://plus.ly/kirin
 
Impressive shot Bill. Even with the graininess. What software did you use?
I haven't noticed banding with my GH2 having used both noise reduction on and off.

Even so by stacking and using suitable software you can get rid of it. I have used the in camera NR but you have to wait for the same exposure duration after each frame and I find dark frame subtraction is 'easier' in terms of workflow

Here is an original 60s exposure at 12800@300mm followed by a stack of 13 similar including this one, notice that the plane trails also disappear. These were done with dark frame and bias frame subtraction plus other stuff, I didn't have any light frames but will do so next time I do some stars

I do realise that I should have done these at iso 800 but I was just shooting at 12800 as an experiment hence the graininess. I took them from by back garden which has a good bit of light pollution





Out of curiosity have you any thoughts on hydrogen alpha sensitivity, I think the GH2 is pretty good as some of my orion images came out quite red and I managed to take some images last summer with even an IR850 filter attached. I'll have to hunt out some more Ha targets to test

edit memo to self, turn off predictive text in browser
--
http://mindboxing.wordpress.com/
http://500px.com/kiri
http://www.flickr.com/photos/memoki/
Google+: http://plus.ly/kirin
 
All of my images are single shot exposures. I use my telescope and camera for immediate viewing and not really for ultimate quality. The kids don't care if I can produce a wonderfully artistic photo.

They just want to see what space looks like through the telescope.
Very impressive shots mpgvsvcd. I'd love to have a telescope like that to play with
Was that first one just a single shot or a stack?

--
http://mindboxing.wordpress.com/
http://500px.com/kiri
http://www.flickr.com/photos/memoki/
Google+: http://plus.ly/kirin
--
GH2, GF1, & ZS3 Sample movies
http://www.youtube.com/user/mpgxsvcd#play/uploads

GH2 Setup Walk through
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uROQbbiiO2I

http://vimeo.com/user442745

GH2 Pictures
http://www.dpreview.com/galleries/4222674355/albums
 
Hi Bob, I like what you've managed to do with this one. May I ask how you went about it? Did you just increase the exposure, or was there something more tricky involved?
With LR4, you can see the Basic adjustments from the default 0 positions. Started with contrast, then toyed with shadows and black point, then whites. A bit of additional work was made with Curves for further darkening of the sky (could have skipped that). Ended up raising the exposure a little after all that. Also, I toyed with some individual colors in the HSL group that seemed to be a bit over the top after the previous work was done. But the meat of the changes were with the Basic group depicted.

I got up to speed by playing a lot on my own, then reading a third party book (it all makes more sense to me when I start reading). I'm looking forward to Martin Evening's LR book to be updated for LR4.













--
...Bob, NYC
http://www.bobtullis.com

"Well, sometimes the magic works. . . Sometimes, it doesn't." - Little Big Man
.
 
Hi Kiri

I used a paid for program called Pixinsight, there are a couple of features that are useful, one is a choice of what are called clipping algorithms and the killer which is something called dynamic background extraction that allows you to subtract background levels from the stacked image to get a cleaner darker background.

It isn't an easy program to use since it is written for researchers and serious amateurs and user friendliness isn't on the agenda. It is programatically and scientifically no compromise which is something I appreciate working in IT, i.e. form follows function. I bought it because I thought the investment was reasonable and I subscribe to one of those large telescope rentals (about a $ a minute) that allow you access to large telescopes and ccd's in dark remote locations. Its my mid life crisis so I need something to splurge my money on ;-)

If you want to get into astrophotography, I'm no expert you can tell but there are several free and probably much easier programs (but with less depth) that you can try

registax is a popular choice
 

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