Are Panasonic Lumix lenses fully compatible on the EM5

I am considering switching from Panasonic M43 to Oly Em5. Can anyone tell me whether my Pan F1.7, 14-45, 14-140, 100-300 will be fully compatible (without using adoptors and retains AF) on the EM5?

choyhoe said:

I am considering switching from Panasonic M43 to Oly Em5. Can anyone tell me whether my Pan F1.7, 14-45, 14-140, 100-300 will be fully compatible (without using adoptors and retains AF) on the EM5?

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actually, this isnt the right forum as your question should be posted here
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/forum.asp?forum=1041

however, they would be compatible without using an adapter as they are both micro four thirds mount

not sure about any of your lenses that might have OIS, perhaps someone else can answer

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Yes, all your lenses will work. I think on the ones with OIS you can turn IBIS off on the Olympus and use the lens stabilization, or turn of the OIS and use IBIS, just don't try using both, it won't result in even more stabilization, rather the two systems will fight one another.

Mount, AF, exposure control and std. lens/body communication will work (.e. EXIF data). IOW, business as usual, except for in-body sw correction for CA, distortion and such, which is exclusively brand specific. Moreover, I believe most Panny lenses are quite dependent upon that, as they are optically far from perfect. That said, neither are any other m4/3 optics, not compared to native 4/3 Zuikos anyway.

Regarding OIS, I believe some Panny lenses have a physical switch for this, whilst others have not (X-series ?). Those w/o a switch will default OIS to Off when mounted on an Oly body. Otherwise OIS and IBIS should not be used together, as they tend to counteract each other. I believe the Oly 5-axix IBIS is the supreme way to go here.

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I think you get in-body distortion correction but not in-body chromatic aberration correction when using a Panasonic lens on an Olympus body.

And, yes -- E-M5 in-body stabilization ought to be superior, but you can test that.

You will have to be sure to switch off one of the two IS systems on the long zooms. Either turn off the OIS on the lens, or turn off the IBIS on the body. Either works well, if both are on you'll get real blurry results from double shake correction.

As far as I am aware, the only thing you lose by switching is lens aberration (mainly purple fringing) correction, which is easy enough to do in post processing. Distortions and vignetting should still be corrected, and autofocus should still work.

As others have said, you'd need to turn off one of the image stabilisation systems too.

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