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Agreed! The textures are fantastic.Really nice colour and texture on these. Thanks for posting![]()
Maybe I should apply some more sharpening after resizing?are these right out of the camera without any processing? I am wondering because I purchased the lens today with the NX200 kit. They look great but maybe I would apply a tad of sharpening to them.
Actually I took this shots only to try a very lightweight tripod, the Slik Sprint PRO 3Way II, to see wether it can hold the 50-200 as this is my heviest lens.Sharpening seems fine. Were they handheld? I can imagine at those exposures, there will be some motion blur in that case (or even a lot), which make them appear less sharp.
Thomas - just wondered if you switched off the OIS? Keeping it on when mounting the camera on a Tripod can actually generate loss of sharpness.Actually I took this shots only to try a very lightweight tripod, the Slik Sprint PRO 3Way II, to see wether it can hold the 50-200 as this is my heviest lens.
Thomas
I always disable OIS when using tripod. I did the same when I used Pentax DSLRs with in camera shake reduction.Thomas - just wondered if you switched off the OIS? Keeping it on when mounting the camera on a Tripod can actually generate loss of sharpness.Actually I took this shots only to try a very lightweight tripod, the Slik Sprint PRO 3Way II, to see wether it can hold the 50-200 as this is my heviest lens.
Thomas
General consensus is to keep image stabilsation OFF when on a tripod - particularly if using a remote trigger.
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Neil....
The Sky is a Beautiful Place
I use the 50-200 a lot in studio environment and there I learnt that it is fine until f14. I avoid f16 and f22.Another factor I'm just beginning to get some understanding of in relation to NX (and other cameras) is softening caused by diffraction - particularly in fine detail. (Thanks to Benjamin Marsh and others in another forum)
This might be something worth being aware of especially as you chose to use F13/F14 apertures. These could make your images softer than they need to be.
See here for more detailed explanation.
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography-2.htm
There is a case for limiting aperture on the NX100/NX10/11 for somewhere between F8-F11 max. From my reading of the issue - peak definition is achieved just before diffraction kicks in.
It's a rather complicated matter of impact to images as there are many other factors that affect sharpness and images may be more affected by other quality issues first, but assuming you have a good quality lens and camera combination, diffraction can then come into play.
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Neil....
The Sky is a Beautiful Place
Not much time today and no great light either but here some more:Very nice! Keep posting more 50-200mm pics, because I am interested in buying it and barely anyone on this forum does post any!